Bulletproof emaxx
 

Hey all, I just had a question about emaxx's. I want to build a bullet proof emaxx that can handle some serious power without breaking. I'm not really concerned about looks and the bling factor but I want a drivetrain that won't break. Of course, money is a factor, so the goal is the most bang for the bulletproof buck!

I'm afraid the brushless bug has bit me again after I sold my TXT-1 with a lehner.

1/8 diffs with CVDs and a G-Maxx single speed conversion are good places to start--I recommend UE Supermaxx for most bulletproof setup. Unfortunately none of this is cheap. :( It is all bling as well as tough though!

I'll second the UE Supermaxx drivetrain. In my eyes I'd rather get it right the first time than have to go back and spend the money on the same parts over and over again.

my question is how big of motor are you planning on running? The ue diffs get my vote as well with cvds. The 23 mm hexes seem to have no problems with stripping. the single gmaxx tranny upgrade helps with tranny as well but he emaxx tranny is pretty strong any way.

Yeah, those things sound like a great place to start. You know how much all that is and where I can get those? I'm probably gonna hold off on the one speed conversion, but the diffs and cvd's for sure. That should make it withstand lots of punishment.

I'm thinking like a 9L or maybe a 7xl....haven't made up my mind on that.





Note: I deleted the duplicate post - Joe

Oh! I thought you was talking a big motor. :D Mike here can hook you up with all of the above mentioned. I not sure on price right off hand. If you drop mike a pm or email he can put you on the right track. The 7xl is a stronger motor than the 9l.

Hi, what about FLM all aluminum parts guaranteed for life! And you can build a complete E-MAXX out of thier parts

First things first.

I was refering to the question about about the bulletproof E-MAXX that want the best bang for the bbuck. Sorry I type slow and yall drifted off a little. I am trying to speed up.

yes, i would go with the flm bulkless with 1/8th scale gears and supermaxx cvds. if you want supermaxx diffs you can get the gears from supermaxx for the flm cases. much cheaper and a very good warranty if you ask me.

We all have our favorites. He did say bulletproof, didn't he?:p

I have the flm bulkless and supermaxx 8 spider diffs, flm arms, and getting the flm chassis. I got the flm arms cause they are cheaper than UE and if you do break one you can get it replaced for $8, pretty good if u ask me.

May not be bulletproof but it's the next best thing.

Should be as bulletproof as anything else out there.

Hmmm, FLM bulkheads huh? And you say it's cheaper? What are we talking about to complete it? Bulkheads and just the gears are needed? Sorry, I've never dealt with an emaxx before and just need some guidance to what's all needed for that route.

here is a link

all that is needed is the hybrid bulks and a set of gears.

-corey

@papa; it is not only about the quality of the products, it is also about the company that stands behind their products, and their policies in terms of warrantee. the FLM warrantee is flawless, and their products are good. I use the FLM's as well, they are pretty freaking nice for the money. as simple as that. True, it isn't 7075 aluminium, but on the other hand, if you get them replaced IF you are able to brake them for only a few bucks..

I think i understand what you mean though. the question was about the quality of the product, not about the whole theory behind it..

I hear you. No doubt FLM has a good looking warranty. I have never had a FLM bulkless in my hand. I can not comment on the quality of machining etc... The only thing I can compare is material.

Serum, when you set up your bulkless, how did it go for you?

yeah,yeah,yeah..

I happen to had on of the first sets in the batch.

the UE cups didn't fit, the UE shocktower didn't fit, the bearing holes weren't deep enough and the two shells weren't 100% flat.. and the 4 holes for the skid in the rear weren't tappered deep enough, the holles on the outside where a little off-centre to the bearing holes on the inside

Mike contacted FLM about it, and they did some finetuning.

Take it from me, i am very, very precise in these things, so i basicly see about averything. i also found an error in their shocktwers from the savage. (which they also corrected) And as with everything. the start-up errors need to be elliminated with feedback from users. luckely, they do something with that feedback..

Problably not the answer you expected, but this is the uncoloured truth, and after all, i still thing that the FLM bulkless is one of the best hopups for a Maxx!

lol, just like rc-monster mike! its about quality AND the service! which he both has!

I agree - the FLM hybrid bulks are one of the best maxx hopups available. The current bulks fit UE diffs, or just about any 1/8 diff, and the issues have been corrected. I recently built two trucks, one using the UE VBS, and one using the FLM hybrids. With an extended G-maxx, the FLM is much easier to work with for sure. It is hard to pick a pure favorite, but for the money, the FLM is unbeatable imho. If I built another truck for myself, I would use the FLM just because they are easier to use with the other mfgs available hopups(UE requires custome work, though they have 7075 aluminum and look awesome-the FLM parts, though made fro 6061, are as tough as nails). New skids, for example-UE needs a custom skid or a UE skid to work. The FLM can use any maxx skid, making the selection much better IMHO.
That being said, my race e-maxx has the UE VBS and a custom rear skid. I did build it before the FLM hybrids were available. I don't regret having the UE VBS at all, as it is an excellent product, but my next build will use the FLM for the same performance and half the price.

Maybe a revo conversion might be cheaper! :D

there are some bulkless thingy's coming for the revo as well.. :p

how long till the bulkless revo system with 1/8th gears?