Suicideneil
 

Do you know of any Traxxas Emaxx 3906 videos covering the tranny upgrades from plastic gears to metal gearing? I have a twinn velineon set up I'm looking into. At present I have the two velineon systems ready to install but no lipos yet and will not upgrade until I do purchase lipos. I'm not fond of melting the plastic gearing inside the transmission casing on the first couple runs.

When shifting on the fly I can hear a bit of grinding now and then when switching from first to second gear.

If I do open the transmission housing will I need snot grease or oil to replace the old with?



Warn: (0%)

I posted this at the traxxas forums too:gasp:

So what exactly are you asking? I am sorry, but your post is very difficult if not impossible to follow.

you can edit your post:yes:of curse me too i can't clearly understand your post???

In preporation to upgrade my stock titan motors to brushless twinn velineon systems I am looking for videos and other links to help assist upgrading my transmission gearing to a more durable matter. Any tips vids or other links to help assist?

look at the rcmonster store...:yes:you will find all the stuff you to modif your 3906 tranny and make it bullet proof:whip:

I answered you over in Traxxas. My tranny so far has been bullet proof with steel idlers, a single speed conversion and modify the out/input shaft roll pin with either an alllen wrench or steel drill bit.

http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ighlight=idler

My tranny has been flawless bone stock. And I run a V-Twin on 3s LiPo much harder than most will. Never had a tranny failure.

Edit- Actually I did have a failure. I used a light-weight output shaft that bent and broke under the power of the dual VXL system, no gear issues though. If you want to upgrade, just go with some RC-Monster steel idlers and be done with it.

Well, the dual vtwin must not be as strong as you think. I have killed the roll pin on the top gear, broken input shafts, stripped lower gears, broken the 2 speed sliding dog clutch, and broken tranny cases. The rcm steel idler, and a gmaxx single speed are mandatory. Plus modding a revo input shaft to use the revo spec slipper on the old tranny is a good idea.

All of my damage was done with a single motor setup, 3s to 5s. God knows how many diffs I have killed. Now I have the lst diffs and the modded single speed tranny mentioned above and it can hold up to a 1515 on 8s lipo...

What KV was the 1515 you were running? What ESC?

Me? 2200kv MGM, MM and MMM

I was asking linc. :rules:

I am running a lt10s esc, and an aveox 36/38/2, identical to a 1515 2y.

I am definately putting the tranny and lst diffs thru some hell. And I plan to gear up for stupid speed. Just need to put a decent body on it...

It holds up just fine if you drive it right. My Twin on 3s will outrun a 1D on 4s in a Revo, I've already done it. I'm sure you have seen my videos, the truck is plain fast and has too much torque. I use 1st gear at lower speed bashing and 2nd gear on speed runs and racing. If you have had bad luck building your trannies, thats no reason to say a Twin doesn't have the power. I run my truck very hard and it has yet to fail. Single speed isn't mandatory, nor even recomended if you ask me. A V-Twin really benefits from 1st gear at low speeds. I broke a roll-pin way back when the truck was a single VXL, replaced that with a bent hex key and its been off to the races ever since. My recomendation is go with the RCM idlers(I have a set I never installed because my stock ones have never failed) and replace them when your stock ones break. Here is my twin.


http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/h...nt=maxx030.flv
http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/h...nt=maxx028.flv

Bit contradictory...

I have to say that most who run brushless find the stock idlers wear out fast, or the teeth come off. Then when you throw in the steel idlers, the lower gears will loose teeth. Maybe you are not jumping the truck, or have the slipper set loose. Or you are running stock tires on a lower grip surface. I broke many parts, and so have a bunch of people. Run larger tires, jump with a tigher slipper, or just run on the street hard. I can break most things on the street, good traction and plenty of power will do that.

Plus, I would like to point out that if the velineon motors were that powerful, they would snap the 1/8 shafts. i do realize there are 2 of them... They are only feigao s can motors after all.

Smaller motors have less torque, and torque breaks stuff. Run a kb45 motor in something and you will see why they have a 6mm shaft...

I said my Twin never broke a gear. That was my single. I run on asphault, with SportTraxx tires(as per videos above) and take jumps that would destroy most trucks. Cmon, you've seen all my videos. You know how I drive and how my trucks hold up. My slipper is locked down and I use hard brakes to control the truck in the air. Though I don't have any videos uploaded with larger jumps, these are some I hit on a daily basis. And I'm sure you have seen the 12ft jump I have on my track. No videos of the Twin hitting that, though. Just my word.

Edit- I forgot to mention I also run a spool, traction isn't a problem for me. Control is.

Here are some jumping vids
http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/h...nt=maxx038.flv
http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/h...nt=maxx032.flv

Consider yourself lucky. For anyone else planning to run an old emaxx tranny brushless, give it a try stock. Your results may vary from Tempted's. When you want to upgrade, the g maxx single speed kit and 1 steel idler is 100 bucks well spent. Or convert your maxx to the new emaxx chassis and use the new tranny and 3.3 spec driveshafts. It would most likelt be cheaper to sell the old emaxx and out the money towards a new emaxx. Much better truck. For the record I have 5 maxx trucks currently, and have had a few others before. All brushless.

Thats what I would recomend. Run stock until it breaks, then replace what breaks(idlers 90% of the time). I bought the idlers with the intentions of doing the same, I have just never broke. As for the single speed, sure if you run 6s or a crazy KV 4s set-up. But the smaller motors need the low gear to help with temps and bash-ability. As for changing gears, you mentioned it would grind when shifting. Be sure to fully release the throttle in between shifts so the cog has time to fully engage. I even blip the throttle after the gear change to ensure it shifted properly.

Sorry but I am with linc on this. The stock 3906 tranny is garbage. I had to upgrade my original one to steel idlers when only using the titans as did many others. Cheapest route is to upgrade to the new chassis and tranny. The newer diff setup is much better this time around as well. I blew out a diff the first week I had my orginal e-maxx and unless you rebuild them and shim and grease them well, they blow out too easily. Then there is the problem with the stock sliders, which can be some what remedied with a 3/16 dowel pin glued to the innards if the male shafts. I never liked CVD's with the maxx setup as the bent constantly.

FYI to the thread starter- I cant be reached on the TRX forums as I was banned (again).

Anyway, the stock 3906 tranny is garbage yeah. I found that just the single speed and idler upgrade was not enough, and had to fork out $69.99 for the RC4WD aluminium gear set, even though I only wanted the 2nd gear output gear. That would be a nice product for Mike to carry- a single steel or aluminum gear to go with the steel idler, sell it as an upgrade kit for the 3906. Beyond that, the slipper needs attention, as do the driveshafts. Plenty of upgrade advice in my FAQ though.