What Do I need for Competition?
 

Getting a list ready as I have Decided to Race the 2009 season in the truggy class at the local Track.. I have a Cen Matrix truggy FRE edition. Right now I have an Airtronics M8 radio, and a Duratrax Sx-200 metal geared servo.
I want to do a truggy diff conversion with a small (46t) buggy spur gear so i can use Mike's mount.
I plan to:
-Get standard Truggy diff gears
-Do the small gear mod 66tooth spur down to a 46.
-Get the RC-monster Cen mount
-Get 17mm hubs and Proline LRP crime fighters

I hope to:
-A decent driver
-Get a Spectrum module for my radio
-Get 2 ROAR 2s packs.
-Get a decent servo



My Current setup is:
Castle creations Neu 1515 1y
5s 4000mah zippy lipo (being repaired)
V2 MMM (being replaced with v3)
Proline Bowties


The Specs of my current servo:
Speed: 0.20 sec/60° @ 6.0V
Torque: 124 oz-in (8.9 kg-cm) at 6.0V
Very slow IMO, but what would you guys recomend?

The best guy on here to answer your questions on the CEN is probably JHautz, he built the Matrix TR Fre that I bought off of him and let me tell you its just plain sick. Its got pretty much every upgrade/trick done to it to handle the brushless motor. Unfortunately I have like an hour of run time on it then my MMM crapped out on me and still waiting for my V3 to show up.

My tips for you are:

- Def get the Spektrum or other DSM at some point makes life much more hassle free as you dont have to worry about frequency conflicts. However if money is an issue then you can save this upgrade for later as most people are running DSM so there is usually a lot of channels available at races.

- IMO the best servos for the money are ACE, the DS1015 is just plain awesome, you may see other servos rated better, but I think the ACE's numbers are under rated and the price on them is good. They are a little power hungry and the nitro guys complain, but shouldnt be an issue in an electric truggy unless you are using a separate power pack for it.

- You def. want at least a set of bow ties and crime fighters for tires, that will give you a decent tire in most conditions, may not always be the best setup for the track but it will almost always be good. You can also mix and match them is you need more drive in the rear and more lateral grip up front run the bowties on the back and crimes on the front, etc.

- I have the Mikes mount on my Cen and it works well, but as you note above a smaller spur gear must be used with Mikes mount. Here is what JHautz wrote in his description of my truggy:

- Here is what he wrote regarding the 17mm hubs:


Hope this helps you out a bit with your upgrades to the Matrix TR to get ready for racing. If you have any other questions let me know and I will try to help out.

Actually the JR DS8711 servo's are the best on the market.. I picked up mine watching ebay for 110. shipped each, but typically are pretty close to 130 if you don't look. You're doing something wrong if you ever need another servo... not to mention a 3yr warranty, that you won't ever need. SICK! 400+torque and .15sec for speed.. pretty much unbeatable.

http://www.jrradios.com/Products/Def...rodID=JRPS8711

As I mentioned in my post that it was my opinion (IMO) that the ACE was the best. The JR is a great choice as well, but I've had good luck with the ACE servos and I will stick with them. :smile:

Fast XR, thank you very much i basically studied Jhautz thread :D
It that strong of a servo actually needed? i was looking at the DS1313
Specs:
# Transit time: 0.13 sec/deg @ 6V
# Torque: 12.5 kg/cm (173.6 oz/in) @ 6V

with my current servo i have never had a problem with Low torque, just the speed kills me, i have messaged many people over the past 2 days, all say the cen likes to understeer just a bit no matter what setup, and have suggested going with the BowFighter combo.. Crime fighters in the front and bow ties in the rear to make it handle well

Definetly follow what Jhautz mentions in his thread, my truggy is very well built.

No the 1015 is NOT needed, I am actually running the DS1313 in my truggy and it has more than enough power and speed for what I need.

I have been using the bowfighter combo on my nitro Matrix buggy to combat the same understeer setup and give me good drive out of the corners at the bowties really hook up in a straight line. I cant really speak for the truggy as I mentioned that I only have about an hour run time and got 5 laps at the track before my MMM conked out.

at least yours didnt shoot fire...

....in front of the nitro guys

Naw it didnt do that, it died a silent death. Im actually pretty sure it was just a bad switch, but I didnt want to mess with it and void my warranty.

I did however wish I had brought one of my nitros with me so I didnt make a trip to the track for nothing. :whistle:

:lol:

I used to run bowtie or holeshot mtr with proline zero offset rims in front and CF mtr on proline 1/2" offset wheels in the rear of my tmaxx. The wider rear adds stability while the zero offset rims in front helps in turning ability. This is on top of the Hitec 5955TG servo I used for steering.

Right now i have all Bows, with 1/2 ofset rims and they are great, no stability issues at all. :yes:

So far I have:
Reckward Tuning PBR Extra Hard Progressive Rate Truggy Spring Set
2x CEN Racing 17mm Wheel Hub (2)
2x CEN Racing 17mm Wheel Nut (2)
Pro-Line White Pre-Mounted Crime Fighter LPR Half Offset M2 Monster Truck Tires (2)
Pro-Line White Pre-Mounted Bow Tie LPR Half Offset M2 Monster Truck Tires (2)
CEN Racing Wing Mount
2x Hot Bodies 10T Spiral Bevel Gear (Lightning Stadium)
2x Hot Bodies 43T Spiral Conical Gear (Lightning Stadium)
Ace R/C DS1313 Super Torque Digital Servo
Kyosho 46T Spur Gear
Rc-Monster Cen Matrix Mount
Rc-Monster 12t Hardened steel Mod1 pinion


Grand total comes up to 350 dollars..

Im hoping my local track isn t ROAR rules or i will have to buy new lipos

Just curious, why get 2 ROAR-approved packs? You can get less weight, more power, and less wasted space out of a standard shrink-wrapped pack. In any case you will definitely want another battery.

Another good servo choice is the Airtronics 359 - 200oz./in. and 0.10sec., and they can be had for $110 easily. This is what is in my Jammin' X1-CRT.
However, I really like the feel of the Hitec 5955-TG (now 7955-TG). It's rated at 333oz./in. and 0.15sec., but is an INCREDIBLE servo. It throws the tires like they're nothing.

One list thing, stick with a steel spur. If your gear mesh changes for whatever reason, you WILL strip the Kyosho spur gear. And Mike's pinions will have no problem with a steel spur, so even if the mesh does change no harm will be done.

ROAR packs only if they are sanctioned by roar. yes its less weight etc, but rules are rules..... (and loopholes are loopholes) :lol:

i think 150 oz of tq qould be adequate for a truggy, 175 is perfect IMO, 333 is rediculous :D but also it costs almost 50 dollars more

I know that the pinions are fine with steel spurs ( the stock is a cnc hardened 66t unit) but its just rediculously loud :lol: I will look into metal gears :yes:

Steel on steel is not necessarily loud - my buggy with steel on steel is actually no louder than steel on plastic, and my truggy isn't far off.

i have to say that mine is deafening, anything off the throttle its just like dragging 20ft chains behind your 1/1 car.

I have never had a problem with plastic spur gears in the past though

youll like the DS1313 servo its very nice, i just got one in my Xray and after testing it today its not as fast as the Airtronics 94360 i took out but its ALOT faster than the 5645 hitec i used to run, and is a great deal at only $70

get a couple of GOOD 4s 5000 packs and make sure your charger is up to snuff, keep some extra wheel bearings, and spares of little common things, a screw kit so youll always have any screw you might need, youll also prolly wanna pick up a personal transponder after you start racing so that its one less thing to worry about. thats pretty much all you need other than ALOT of practice and time spent on setting your truggy up, download an XRAY manual off thier site and read the setup section in the back and it will make complete sense of what effects what and how each adjust effects how the cars drives and reacts.

Thanks for the info Rootar, will do :D

Wow, what great info, I will have to print one of those out.

Alright. Well the big dilemma is if the Track requires ROAR legal packs...
That will determine if I get the spectrum module for my radio or 2 2s Lipos and accessories

Roar lipos - 2 x 2s 5100 enerland
Good radio - Spektrum 2.4
Good tires - LPR's or such
Good servo - 75955/5955 or such

I plan to get enderlands if they are required.

If i dont get lipo's ill get the 2.5ghz module and rx for my current radio

And the Bow's and crime's i have are lpr:yes:

I'll add another recommendation for this servo. I've got the 94358 (same servo without a heatsink) in my X1-CRT also. You can pick it (the 94358) up for $80-85 at two different big online dealers.

Enderlands and 2.5GHz? You been smoking somethin' boy? :lol:

how'd you find out! :lol:

lol, nah just s little typo:lol:

Just learned that my Local track does not require ROAR packs :PARTY:!!!!!

yay now i can get that "2.5" ghz module and rx

Awww man, thats like .1 ghz better then mine. Its gotta be worth a couple of 10ths on the track. :rofl::rofl:

and weight reduction buy about 2lbs! gonna be UBER fast:lol:

you ought to hurry up and see what deals are left over at NUE on batteries.......


and now you see why people rave about xray manuals right?

yes i do :yes:

Has Anyone here raced at TRAX 70 ?

Is there any distinct advantage to running a mech brake setup?

or at least a Micro servo hooked up to just the rear brakes?

Anyone run mech brakesover electronic brakes?

You've probably seen my hybrid electric/mechanical brake setup. This is a lighter weight solution that enables me to have front/rear brake bias on the fly through the 3rd channel on my radio. This setup helps when cornering because where regular motor brakes cause the vehicle to push mine will pivot around the rear end better.

do you have a link?

Also Is there THAT much of a difference between the lrp wheels and tires over MT... ?

ah i get it now, very nice. im trying to decide if i want a mech brake system or not

Is there a big difference between the MT wheel/tire combo and the LPR. my current mt wheels and tires were fine, didnt have much roll and had very good bite.

The LPR's are very light weight, have very little roll (tiny sidewalls), don't balloon much and seem to be the top choices at just about every track under normal conditions. For truggy (arena) the holeshots most often, then the crimefighters, then the bowties in that order (even bowfighters at times mixmatch). Also common are the losi cubics (GRP I think). I will note typically using two different tires results in extra wear on the diff's so at least for me I blow them or have to rebuild much faster than running the same tires, just thought I'd thow that out there.

Ok lpr's it is :D

I would say working esc and lipos would be a good start ;)