My bl project
 

Hi all, This is my stock (partly broke down) E-MAXX. When I get through it's going to be all aluminum bl. I am using all FLM parts. I have already got the Hybrids 1/8, A-arms, shock towers, steering knuckles with titanium balls, Steering linkage with bearings, body post, SS bolts screws etc.. Mike is gitting the chassis and gears for the 1/8, Hopefuly by mid next week. I plan to run the stock motors for test and tuning. Actually my girlfriend has cut the $$$ flow for now, But the test and tune sounds good. LOL. I hope to get some great info from these forums. You folks seem to know everything there is to know about bl setups. Heres question #1 I bought this truck with CVD's I think they are MIP's but not sure. They are chrome with black boots, How do I find out what brand they are, Because the 1/8's could be diffrent in other ways than the obvious.

RDL usualy puts boots on their cvds. I don't think MIP does?

No, they don't Johny, With MIP cvd's the bone goes over the drivepin, with all the other cvd's available it is the other way around.

it is likely that they won't fit the 1/8th diffs. You are going to use UE diffs? they use the longest drivecups, the Ofna cups are shorter as well.

Can you get a better picture of that CVD? or measure the length of the bone from front till end?

Look to see if the drive cups take the stock grub pin combo. The rdl drive cups are kind of long to. IF you have the rdl they don't work with the change to 1/8 diffs. I think the best deal is the ue for the simple fact is I have broke the rdl and mip.

nice, make sure to get vids of ur new maxx when its done.

Hi all, I have been doing some test fitting and found a few problems. (1) does it look like the CVD's are going to be long enough? The dog bone is just under 5'', And the drive cup is 1 1/2'' long. I did not have any stocks to compare them to. (2) Are the standoff's on the shock towers are to long, Or do you cut them to length? I don't know how to put more than one picture on a post. So the next few will be my pic's.
Thanks

This is a side view.

Another sid view.

Last one lol. Oh I also found that it is best to run all bolts in and out using WD40 or somthing before assembling. I had to run the stock pivot balls in and out of the FLM's because the titanium ones were to tight (probably would have stripped).

Last one again.

Nice work! I dont like using WD40 before putting screws in because they seem to come out very easily, good luck with your truck:)

I used it because it was all I had on hand and I needed something because I was getting quite a lot of shavings.

True, maybe it will dry off in a bit, because i rebuilt my whole truck in one day and ran it so i geuss that was the problem.

im not sure but i think you need to reverse your standoffs. if i am not mistaken the hex part goes towards the rear. please correct me if im wrong as i need a hardware kit for my UE knuckhead towers i have coming.

-corey

it looks more like flm tower. The hex supposed to go to the tower. The cvd is real close. What kind are the cvds and what kind of diffs are you running?

Those are UE shocktowers?

Turning the stand offs does not make a difference, Either the bolts are to short or the standoffs are to long. These are FLM towers, And I don't know what kind of CVD's they are they came with the truck.

Yea, i thought those were FLM, maybe you should consider getting new cvds?

Take the "lock" nuts off the pillow balls and turn them in further. You can use locktite to hold the pillow balls in postion. This will bring the cvds in closer and your problem will be solved(if it is indeed a problem at all).

I have the same setup as you dooley (flm arms, 1/8 hybrid bulks) i have the integy knuckles (dont know which ones u have?). I use mip cvds and they fit alright, i use supermaxx 8 spider diffs. I think its the flm arms that are wider than stock, i immediately noticed the difference in the width of the truck when i put it together. i used locktight on the pillowballs so they wont come lose, and used locktight on the caps that go in the knuckle after the pillow balls.

those are msr5 shocks? I use 8 msr5 shocks with 80wt oil and springs wound all the way down but i still feel its to soft, might go to 100wt with harder springs.

What brushless are you getting? im probably gonna get a 9xl for the longer run time and run 16 cells.

Oh and i know your problem with the stand offs. Its because you know how your using those little things that you put in the hole at the top of the shock, and the screw/bolt goes through it your not ment to use those with those stand offs. In the pic you've got the stand off backwards. The circle end of the stand off supposed to go into the hole at the top of the shock. Hope this helps

Hope this pic helps explain it

Yeah, that's how they should be mounted... :p

If the cvds are rd logics they will be short. You will need to replace them out. It looks to have the boots on in the first pic you posted. I would guess you have the rd logics cvds and this is your problem with length.

The easiest way to get rid of this problem would be to just get new cvds.

yeah cause you can get a full set of mip cvds off ebay for $34 easy

WOW Basketti , I was about to blow a fuse trying to figure that out! THANKS! I have msr4's and the springs are soft. Mike is sending me rebuild kits for them, It looks like I need to e-mail him for some 80 and 100 weight oil and some springs. Hey coolhand can I buy titanium bogbones that are a little longer for the back? If you would measure yours I can order the right length?? I will be back in a few with the correct standoff's.

I have the ue 6mm cvds in mine from mike. I run the integy knuckles and rpm arms. with the flm hybird bulks ofna diffs. as far as dog bone for center i run the 70 mm ue from mike they fit great. stock chassis. Just let me know how I can help you.

coolhand, i thought you had integy type 3?

-corey

I have the ue cvds with integy type 3 racer suspension

i think this is why its confusing

well I sorry for the confusion. I do have the integy racer on the gmaxx with double extensions. I have the rpm with integy knuckles on the stock chassis. Sorry for that. It confuses me with more than 1.

Hey Basketti, Sorry I did not answer your questions. The knuckles I have are from RCXSHOP and they say thier made by Associated. They look good but the bearing size is stock. About the gears, Mike is getting them for me and I don't know witch ones he's getting. You said you used locktight, What # and color? I got plastic ball cups. Will locktight work on them? I have msr4 shocks, Don't know the differance between 4"s and 5"s. As for the brushless motor. I am like you, I like long runtimes but I like lots of power so I think I will get a ''hotter 8xl or 7xl'' and run16 cells and later get LiPo's and have plenty of runtime and power. I put the shocks back together and they look great. Thank you all for your help.

The difference between the msr5s and the msr4s are that the msr5s have a 3.5mm shaft, the 4s have a 3mm shaft, also the reservoirs have a different design.

the 5s have a heatsink on the reservoir also.

the locktight i used is blue locktight, i didnt know they have #'s. I've only heard that theres blue locktight and red locktight, and the red one is REALLY hard to undo so its best to use blue. If you have plastic ball cups you wouldnt need locktight i think, i use the stock ball cups. I cant make up my mind on which motor i'll get, i'll probably end up getting the 8xl cause its right in the middle lol. what weight oil did you end up putting in the shocks?

Don't have the rebuild kits yet. What kind of chassis are you using?

Don't have the rebuild kits yet. What kind of chassis are you using?

Im waiting for my flm chassis, untill i get it im just using the stock one.

Hi, I started this thread when I started on my bl. In this thread we discussed if my cvd's would be to short or not. Now I have the truck put together and they look to short. Here are some pic's to look at.

That sucks! i guess youll have to get some different ones. I have mip ones and they work fine :)