E revo direct drive out runner
 

Im toying around the the idea

I am starting to piece together a e revo, and was looking at all the parts of the transmission. And was like wow, this thing needs a center diff, or direct drive


Ideas? I know someone here did it. What size Axi motor would I use? Is it worth trying, or its it on the lower side for power for a big truck? And would the MMM esc work fine with the motor? What kind of voltage do you run with a outrunner? 5, or 6s good?

Sorry for all the questions.
:mdr:

Im talking about a 8th scale diff. No transmission at all.

Drop all the weight. But a out runner is something I have always wanted to try

Turnigy 50-55b worked well

If you Plan on using dogbones for center drive you need an outrunner with an 8mm output shaft size, if you want to use sliders you need 6mm

This axi would work- http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPPY0&P=0


Or this Turnigy 50-65 http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s..._380Kv_/_1820w

and that was direct drive, no tranny or anything?

You guys think a out runner of that size would fit in a plastic e revo chassis?

I think I might just do the normal tranny, and MMM combo for it. IDK yet

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...0/100_0968.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...0/100_0953.jpg
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What happened to 4WD?

it was there after that pic

How much does the e revo weight without the tranny? My lst (12.5pds rtr) didn't like the 50/55 outrunner direct drive. It tried a 50/65 that was better. Right now its got a axi 4130/16 with muggy diff gears. But its raining so I haven't run it yet. I should do a build thread. Its been an experiment thats for sure. I'm on my 4th motor, I smoked a mmm v2 and a mgm 22418 and its not done yet.
http://www.volcano.net/~desmotwin/pi...b/CIMG4013.JPG

I wondered what happend to you desmo, glad to hear from you

Thats sweet! Does it have decent power? Wheelie and all?

And were are you in cali?

Im in Sacramento, maybe were close enough for a bash?:mdr::mdr::mdr:

outrunners have gratuitous amount of power.. lol

My car didnt wheelie at all, but it would just light the tires up, leaving a visible burnout mark for about 15-20 feet

What voltage do you plan on running

I dont know if I will do it or not just yet

Sounds cool. I would probably run 6s, or what ever is most efficient with a outrunner

The only problem with that is that you dont have gearing to change, theres voltage and kv only

And tire size. And if you want to go far into it, hybrid diffs, so buggy or truggy ratio =P

The thing im worried about is lack of power, I want instant crazy power from a NEU. The out runner I worry it might not spool up as fast, and/or will cog being direct drive. IDK

My mmm and my mgm where both gone for a few weeks each for repair work. I made some changes but i haven't had time to run it. If the muggy diff gears don't make it more bashable I'm selling it and trying a dirrect drive truggy. I just put my v3 mmm in it too so we'll see how that goes.

The 5065 380kv motor I had was a wheelie monster for the 5 min the mmm lasted before it went up in flames. The speed calculator said it should do 48mph i think. The mgm 22418 cogged on anything other than the lowest start setting. The motor wires also get hot. I'm hoping the muggy gearing will help its start up issues. If it was lighter I'm sure it would be ok. I might try some lighter batteries next too.

I live about an hr from sac. If you have an E revo now I would keep the tranny and run it with a good motor on 6s and a mmm or mgm esc. You'll have a much better gearing choice.

Surely you didn't miss this?
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14176

Direct-drive-to-diff (this term was coined by sikeston) is not so easy on the E-Revo chassis. You cannot use the stock skidplate and must remove a lot of material from the chassis, and both of these things dramatically reduce the strength of the chassis creating a need for extra bracing. And this chassis is not friendly to those wishing to mod it...

I missed it, that is awesome MetalMan. The slayer tires might solve the gearing preblems for the revo. I tried the 4120 size motor before going to a 4130 size. We'll see how the muggy gears and the mmm v3 hold up after it stops raining.

BOR: sikeston34m did a direct to diff setup as metalman said, but he had issues with the truggy diffs.

The stock diffs will not hold up to a big outrunner. The revo is not the best platform to do a dirrect to diff setup.

Desmo, I like the lst. With the muggy gears and that axi you should be fine. Those motors like high timing and lots of start power.

Talk to lutach. He is the ultimate setter-upper.

Damn Travis! Your really doing it up!

Yea, so far its looking like the Direct drive is a no go. I dont have a tranny (anyone have one they will sell? lol) I still need one.

Sounds like the bigger MT doesnt do so well with the direct drive? I think I will just wait for the CC MMM combo, and do that. Unless anyone thinks otherwise?

Personally, I'd go DD. I would be happy to fab something up for you if you send the truck to me, along with the cost of metal and work ($20/hr.) I'm getting a mill very very soon (like next week) and want to do some custom work for people.

I've done some testing with outrunners in my CRT.5 and the best ESC for outrunners is the Sidewinder. I was using a Kontronik Jazz 80, a Quark Competition 80 and a MM before but no one is as smooth as my Sidewinder. I'm running it on 4s with UBEC, has anyone already tried 5s? I would love to put it in my HB Lightning Buggy on 5S.

Here is a small vid, as you can see it allows my to do drive so smooth and slow with a total ratio of 3,25 :yes: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkAd3LFKwgU

I think the greatest advantage of an outrunner conversion is the possibility to save much weight, the RTR weight of my CRT.5 with Jato Wheels is only 4.1lbs. I've got runtimes of 15min-20min and this with a 2000mah 4s Zippy lipo and it's wheeling all the time.

http://i38.tinypic.com/2nbcdv8.jpg

It would be great if anyone could do some outrunner testing with the MMM, lets hope that it has the same software as the sidewinder. I think in your case, 5s or 6s are the way to go. I am using a KD36-8XL in my .5, you could have a look at the larger ones that HC has in stock. I was using a Turnigy 500kv Outrunner in my 8S Revo, it was also working very nice together with a Jazz 55-10-32 ESC.

Here is how I did a DD setup. This is the easiest IMO.

Made brackets out of 1/4 inch aluminum for the center diff.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4150007.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4150006.jpg
Drilled two holes for the front bracket and bolted the rear in using the tranny holes.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4130228.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P3090035.jpg
I used the stock front drive shaft and an axle shaft for the rear.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4130225.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P3090033.jpg
Slap on battery holders of choice.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P3090027.jpg
And you have a kick ass E-Revo.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P3090041.jpg
Build thread here if your interested.

Nice, but in this case that's not direct drive. That's direct drive to a centre diff.

That is just plain old direct drive. It's called that because there's no transmission between the motor and output gear.

Then there's "direct-drive-to-diff", the term sikeston came up with. We know what this is.

With all the "direct drive to diff" conversions out there, it is much easier to say direct drive or DD instead of direct drive to diff. Maybe we should add DD to the "useful acronyms of memory" list.

I wonder how do you guys attach these outrunners to dogbones/CVD's?? Could you please give part number, etc.?

As far as I know there aren't any companies/individuals who sell shafts for outrunners that allow dogbones/CVDs to be attached to them. I made a shaft for my outrunner by putting two flat spots on each end of the shaft (for T-Maxx output yokes), and drilling a hole through both ends for the screw pin. For regular dogbone cups you would just need to use a Dremel to make a flat spot for the set screw to attach to.

My answer for this was to use a stock transmission output shaft. They are 6mm in diameter. This does require chucking it up in a drill press or a lathe. All you have to do is knock off the center portion that engages the transmission output gear.

The result is a 6mm shaft that you install into the outrunner motor.

This allows factory length center drives to be used. :yes:

I hope this helps.

Thanks! :)

OR you can use these for a 8mm shafted outrunner.
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...mrevov2coupler

I am working on this. I had bad luck with some bad A123 cells and using the Turnigy 100 A Plush ESC with a Turnigy outrunner (50-55, 600 kv).

But I just got a new Dewalt pack and the MMM is coming tomorrow. I saw your Youtube vid, so I'm looking forward to seeing what this can do on 6S.

EDIT: it's a Lightning buggy