Mamba Max w/ Fiegao 9L - Series Harness? Or what?
 

I can't remember correctly.
I believe it's the series harness?
Where, the female deans/connector goes into the male ESC deans/connector, and the female deans/connectors is split into two deans?
Anyone have a good diagram? Or should I just pick one up from like GA?

Like this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Great-Planes-SER...3286.m20.l1116

series
http://offshoreelectrics.com/info-pa...ies_series.jpg
parallel
http://offshoreelectrics.com/info-pa...eries_para.jpg

You want to run 2x 2s lipos, do this:

http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_pi...20lvc_1.gif~18

So I'm looking for the series right?

Does the postive and negative go together.. right?

depends. what batteries do you have?

For now, NiMHs, but have some hardcased 5000mAh 2S ones on hand. That I should be testing out sometime tomorrow.

Also included 3A-5Amp UBEC.
Now, I'm completely new to the brushless world, but what does the UBEC accomplish? And how do I wire it? With the diagram, I'm viewing that I should be splicing it into the ESC's Male Deans?

anyone?

pic

Is that what you're looking for?
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_wiring.html

Are the series harness the same, even with NiMHs?
and

This is not the Traxxas forum.... :whistle:

Read one of my FAQs, then the tutorials that follow them in the same threads- that will answer all your noob wiring and BEC etc questions in explicit detail :yes: :mdr:

Too true Neil.
Actually, mikey said that, up above.
The FAQ is just so long :( Fine.

Actually Neil, since I'm only going to be running the 2S (x2) LiPos, I won't be needing the UBEC, will I?

Of course, if I was running 4S, I would need it.
Or is running 2 lipos in series doubling the cells, thus causing 4S? Or am I just gone stupid.

You dont need to read the whole thing, there are seperate sections relating to the different issues you are asking about.

2 + 2 = 4. Series doubled the voltage, parallel doubles the mah.

You will need:

A UBEC / BEC.
A capacitor equal to 25v 105*C low esr 2000-4000uf.
A series Y-harness for the 2x 2s lipos to be wired together IN SERIES.

Yes, you are stupid, now go away before I fart on your head.

If you skip to the lipo tutorial, it explains what you need to do, as does the BL upgrade section in the FAQs.

Its all good... :yes:

Oh no, not the stinky farty.
Obviously I'm retarded... :whistle:
So, I think I have it... Diagram:
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...994/Series.jpg

Isn't the capacitor included into the UBEC? I see some capacitors sitting on the board.

Then again, I'm stupidly retarded.

That diagram is correct- it works for lipos or nimhs if you want to wire packs in series.

As for the capacitors, there are some on the BEC itself, but those are part of the BEC itself, an unrelated issue so to speak concering the servo and rx power circuits. The capacitor you need to buy is for the main power circuit- novak used to sell an item for the older hvmaxx esc that was perfect, but the newer style item they sell has some flaming death related issues at present, so I would say digi-key or radio shack is your best bet for what you want- a low esr 25-35v cap with 2000-4000uf of capacitance. I would say ebay, but you usually only find giant reels of them for sale, by the dozen or more when you onyl want one or two...

Am I supposed to plug it into the AUX plug in the RX?
Hmph.
I'm assuming this has nothing to do about frequencies.. right?

The UBEC / BEC- thats goes into the aux or battery slot yeah on the rx.

Nothing to do with frequencies as such, though AM radios will be more likely to glitch with one installed as they emitt a fair bit of RF noise. Digital radios will be fine.

Errrma, I'm lost.
Stupid Neil, you get noobs lost.
Okay.
UBEC RX pug goes into the AUX slot.
The other two (polarities - red and black) go where?

On the capacitator, are we speaking of something like the Glitch buster or something of that sort?

Wooohoo, finished up my Series connector, not as color polarity pretty, but it'll do. Sharpies do all the work :p

The other two wires from the ubec (red and black) wire to the main battery pack; thats how a ubec works, it takes the main battery voltage (say, 2s lipo), and switches it down to ~6v for the rx and servos to operate from.

On the capacitor front, its a bit like a glitch buster, only quite abit larger, higher voltage, and wired to the main + and - wires coming from the esc to the batteries. If you look up GriffinRu, you'll see his stage 1 MM mod- exactly what we're recreating here basically.

So, I can just solder it up to the ESC's male Dean's plug?

Sorry, but what exactly does the capacitator do? I'm assuming it assures the ESC....nvm.

Pleb head.

Look up capacitor on google or wiki- it'll explain what is is and does- its basically like a mini battery that stores current, then releases it (quickly) when its required. It also helps to absorb ripple currents that can harm the esc from the batts. You can solder it to the deans, but ideally you want it as close to the esc as possible to get the most benefit- you can see how people added cap banks to their esc from lutach in his HV esc thread for a better idea.

lmao, shows how much I know.. There's a reason why I don't touch the brushless business.
Anyways, any idea of my other problem, the slipper settings or some sort?

Im unsure about the esavage issue. Im assuming the system runs fine when its not mounte din the truck (or the pinion isnt meshed to the spur, same deal). I would suggest checking the truck rolls smoothly to look for any binding in the tranny or diffs, that will be the first stop to diagnosing the problem...

Alright, just finished wrecking my UBEC..... I wasn't trying to make anything permanent, so I stripped a bit of the insulation off the ESC wires, to expose some copper, wrapped positive and negative together, and it lights up, yay!
Plugs in! Yay! No shorting out! (I guess I pulled the red wire a bit too hard, spent about 30 minutes setting my soldering station up (It's completely convertible, I take a small table, my garage workbench I lay it out, and plug everything in..) soldering the red wire back, took less than 30seconds, and my soldering isn't exactly "neat" so, I'm gonna order a better UBEC.. Any recommendations?)

Got everything together, had to experiment, how it'd run.

I concluded, that if I gave the Savvy a little shove, it runs.. Like completely normal. I think this is where the capacitor steps in.. I guess the current is rippling, as when you start the motor, it requires more voltage to step it into the spot, and start running.

Also, after about 5seconds, running around in my brothers room (my RC room.. until he comes back from Davis for the Thanksgiving Holiday, I live about 6 hrs from his school >_>) the ESC is almost smoking. It's VERY hot.
Also, Neil, I know you've got to be the Fieago master.. so.. halp!

Anywho, I need a capacitor, (what rating?), some new gear ratios - I'm looking for a even layout, although, I want wheelies on demand! :p, and a new UBEC.
I'm only purchasing upon recommendations.

After a chat with brushlessboy16, who's rigging up 12 25V 330uF caps, onto a board, and selling it to me... Neil, this WOULD work, right? :p

Wow, that's almost 4,000uF! You're gonna get a pretty decent spark when you power those suckers up. Really, only an additional 900-1200uF is plenty IMO. If these are to address a heat issues, I would be looking to cure the problem, not the symptom.

Hehe, let's just say, carried away with numbers.
How would 5 in series do?

Hehe, caps go in parallel. :mdr: Unless you're planning a super-HV 120V system... 5 in parallel would be an extra 1650 uF which is fine.

See? There's a reason why I'm retarded -.-
brushlessboy16, that he can wire in series? -.^

He's making the cap bank for you, right? He will wire them in PARALLEL to give you the extra capacity. Wiring them in SERIES adds the voltage of each cap together. It's just like with batteries.

Yes, and wiring caps in series also reduces the capacitance, just like resistors in parallel. 6 X 1000uF 25v caps in series would make a single 166uF 150v cap...

I'm starting to think BrianG's sole purpose in life is to fill in my knowledge gaps. :smile: Either way, he is correct. 5 330uF/25V caps in series does not equal 1 330uF 125V cap.

Jesus, I joined RCMonster just to get these answers, actually, I don't understand a single thing. ;)

Anyways, so 5 parallel in 330uF is perfect for the MM?

ok will somebody ban this sucker please?

Bite my shiny metal ass....

Anyway- Im stumped on the esc and motor issue- it really shouldnt need a shove to get moving, and if the esc is heating up that rapidly, something is very wrong somewhere. I would suggest testing it outside so that you arent crawling around in a small area + goping back and forth (that'll really warm the esc up quickly like with an old mechancial speedo). Beyond that, I'd say kill the esavage with fire and buy a nitro version to convert..... :neutral:

lmao. Why would you ban Neil? :p

Lol.... See here, I don't have the 2+ grand to drop on a GMaxx, now, why would I pick up a nitro version to convert!? :D

Anyways, perhaps I should pick up a Medusa? Would one of those run off the MM?
I have a hunch that I need the caps.......

A nice 2000kv 60-70mm medusa would be fine- 60mm = L can, 70mm = XL can.

Depends how much it weighs really, as an L can motor is alot like the hvmaxx motors- use a higher kv and gear it lower to make the power. The XL cans will provide more grunt from the get-go, but they will also draw more current and heat the esc up more- a balancing act. Try upgrading the firmware on the MM to see if that helps- and adjust the start power and timing etc.