Very how Clutch bell
 

I recently completed by revo conversion and after running for a minute, the clutch gets up to about 150*F. I'm using a 1515 1Y on 6S(I tried it also in 3S and same results), elektri-clutch, and a 4-shoe clutch bell with .9 springs. I made sure the setscrew is tight. It sounds like the motor is overrunning the clutch so much that the shoes are not biting into the clutch bell but instead just sliding inside heating it up.

Any inputs? Thanks.

Use weaker springs so it engages sooner and more positively? :neutral: On that note, some people don't use springs at all.

Hmmm, I might try the stock 2-shoe clutch and see what happens. Or I'll just install a pinion and be done with it. If I end up using a pinion, I might keep the mechanical brakes just for kicks :lol::lol:.

Well, I reinstalled the stock 2-shoe clutch that came with the TeknoRC conversion but still got the same result. The clutch bell is still heating up after less than a minute of running.

Here some pics:

TeknoRC elektri-clutch installed:
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture072.jpg

Tried it with 3S and 6S:
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture071.jpg

Temps:
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture073.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture074.jpg

Setup:
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture067.jpg

I use the long shank pinions and the mechanical brakes in my 8t conversion.. LOVE IT! I really enjoy the clutch on my 8ight buggy and it works well, but it's just not great on the larger truggies (or revo) sized trucks iMO. I had the same heat problems and after racing for almost 45min constant (simulating an a-main) it even started to not catch at all due to the temps.. not ideal if you know what I mean :) Pinion setup is far more responsive and quieter to boot, not that noise matters much :P but less heat translated back into the motor as the pinion doesn't heat up at all is a huge factor in my choice to keep the clutch off the truggy.

I recall they said to put the clutch shoes in opposite so it pushes the bell instead of drags it, and to use aluminum shoes and a very light or no spring.

If that's what they're recommending, they should not sell those stockers with the kit then :diablo::diablo:.

Hmmm... 150 degrees is normal. If the clutch is 250 or higher, then that is a problem, but 150 is close to the lower end of the temp range. It appears your clutch bell is shimmed perfectly - tiny gap between the bell and the flywheel.

How does the truck run? If there is excessive slipping (no punch), check the slipper clutch behind the spur. If the clutch bell were slipping, the temp would be a lot higher (250-300). One other thing to check if there is still audible/noticeable slipping would be the clutch nut. Tighten it down on the flywheel just a tad more, but this is a last resort. Let us know how it goes.

We use the stock clutch shoes and bells in truggies and can pull wheelies at will. The stock shoes work just fine. Try the above recommendations and we'll make sure you're running good. Thanks.

If that is the clutch setup that I sold you it is fine. I ran it it and the temps came down and never changed. If you do alot of stop and start the clutch will get hotter than if you are doing speed runs.

Heck 150 °F is nothing try 374.4 °F. I burned the s&%t outta my finger!!!!

Chuck

I didn't get an exact temp but I did the same to my finger.. hurt for days.

I saw this pic over on RcT but couldnt find the thread- did you ever find out why it happened?

mine has been over 200° with the 2.5d on 5 cell

Well, 150*F is within 30 seconds of running.

Hmmm... 150 degrees is normal. If the clutch is 250 or higher, then that is a problem, but 150 is close to the lower end of the temp range. It appears your clutch bell is shimmed perfectly - tiny gap between the bell and the flywheel.

A loose slipper was the first thing I checked and then a loose clutch nut. Both are tight. I have one of those clutch lockout tools that allows me to really tightened the clutch nut. I'll try running it again and see what happens. Tell you what though, I'm not liking it.

Anyway, just for shit and giggles, I went ahead and tightened the clutch nut and slipper clutch. I went downstairs for a test run and after 1 minute, the temp shot up to 346*F. I didn't have my camera so I hurriedly went upstairs(I live in the 8th floor of a high rise towerand I used th elevator) and by the time I check the temps, it was already down to 158.5*F. It was smoking a bit when I was downstairs. The air temp is about 48*F too.

Tell you what, it still wheelies. It almost flipped too since I ran it on 6S :intello::whistle::whistle:.

Here's a pic. You can see the melt marks on the spur.
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture075.jpg

Quick question: Are the shoes installed according to the instructions (reverse orientation)? Any pics of the clutch with the clutch bell off?

Yes, they were. The only thing I can think of now is if the collet is not grabbing the shaft. This is the only thing I can think of as a problem now.

Thanks for your help.

I'll be back.

i have tryed them both ways and they still get very hot, i didnt think of the shoes being much hotter than the bell, i guess that why it slaged 3 stock clutches before i changed to an aluminum 3 shoe

the aluminum shoes on mine have heat marks :lol:

Here's some more update with pics.

Clutch shoe positioned on leading edge. It's been set like this since I started messing with it.
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture076.jpg

Tightened the clutch nut again using my Kyosho lockout tool:
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture077.jpg

I decided to install a new stock clutch.
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture079.jpg

Still the same heat problems.
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture080.jpg

Here's a couple of videos:
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...h_Video087.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...h_Video089.jpg

I suppose I should state the obvious: You should revert to the other shoe set for now! :yes: Geez! 285*F is rediculous! What's the melting point of steel??? :lol:

What other shoe? the 4-shoe? or aluminum shoes?

I'm getting tired of removing and re-installing this elektri-crap :diablo::diablo:. I'll try the 4-shoe clutch with carbon shoes but this time have the shoes trailing and see the difference. If not, I'll just wait for the long-shank pinions I ordered or put spacers and use a regular length pinion.

Whichever set gave you the 150*F temps. It may be too high, but the ones you swapped them for definitely made things worse.

Revving at low speeds is going to heat up the clutch with just about any setup (nitro too) and isn't a good indicator for operating temperature. If you're doing mostly low speed driving take the spring off of the clutch shoes or use a pinion. Your spring may need replacing if it had moderate to extensive use when your Revo was nitro.

Try no spring and if that doesn't drop the temps, send us an email and we'll send you some new shoes to try.

TeknoRC, thanks a lot. I'll try the 4-shoe clutch without any springs. I'm just getting tired of taking it off and then re-installing. The 150 temps was after running it approximately 10 feet.

Like I said in my previous post, I tried the 4-shoe clutch with the shoes trailing but still got the same result.

My input after using the Tekno 8T setup:
1. Minimise light throttle inputs after coasting/braking etc. Need to be a bit more aggressive with the throttle than you're used to with a direct drive to lock the clutch up.
2. Remove the clutch spring. The smaller diameter of the Revo clutch bell means less centrifugal force is available to throw out the clutch shoes.
3. Heavier (ie Ali compared to composite) clutch shoes might help as well to give a quicker and more positive clutch action.

No matter what you do, though, the clutch bell will get hot! Just less hot if you do the above.