The Slato TRX vehicle
 

http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../343260116.jpg So this is my Slash chassis with Jato arms all around.I was running extenders,but don't consider that the right way. I did a full arm coversion and had to build extended drive shafts.It gives 11 1/4 in width hex to hex.With a 13 1/2 in wheelbase.If anybody wants more info I'd be glad to do a little write up. http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../343258516.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../343260167.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../343258595.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../343258628.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../343265093.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../343265170.jpg

that looks pretty neat!
Now drop the kv, up the voltage and have at it :D

Thanks.It actually does pretty good on 3s,about 50.But it will probably end up with my Medusa 60-2000 with my Quark on 4s.I have to get the 70mm can Medusa for the Erevo first. :)

Interesting! Never seen that before lol looks cool! So what wheelie bar is that?

Love it. I think you should get a longer body.

Thanks guys !Yep,as far as I know this is the first with the Slash chassis http://cgi.ebay.com/BanzaiBars-Wheel...1%7C240%3A1318 This one,with a custom bend,caused by gravity. I ordered this 1 before I got the chassis.It's for a 3906 Emaxx.Next time I'll go with a 3905.

sweet, whats that put the over width to at the tips of the axles?

It's at about 12 1/2 inches.

any tips for doing the jato arm conversion?

Make sure that you use JATO arms...

:lol: Jerk! :rofl: lmao

i think he was asking along the lines of what exactly does he need to do it and are there anythings he should look into.:yes:

Update : So it seems that the Jato shafts will not hold up to the power with these tires.I had blown a couple diffs,so I went with a diff locker .Once that weak spot was eliminated it's obvious that there is just to much traction for this drive train.I've decided to go with some 30 series badlands for this project. The conversion is pretty straght forward. Cutting the bulkheads seems to be the most technical part,but it's not difficult,just measure twice,cut once.After much looking and measuring it does seem that using the rear arms backwards adds about 1/2 degree of toe out on the rear.I can't notice it while driving,it tracks real straight.You can use them in the right direction,but then shock orientation must be worked out. All said and done though this is a very tough conversion.I have bashed it with the pure intention of finding weak lengths and have had nothing fail.(except the driveshaft)The width and length of this makes it very stable.I just think it would be better as a 1/8 scale Stadium truck instead of 2wd Truggy.

Is your New Era 17mm wheel adapter is the one for the Rustler or the Jato one??

The rustler.If you choose to do the solid front Jato axles you could just use the Jato ones.I already had them so figured it would be easier to just use the Rustler c blocks and carriers.

Aww. I thought it looked great with the mt wheels and tires... Oh well. Got pics?

of what ?

Of the truck with the 30 series.

Super! Asheck could you tell me the lenght of the Jato rear arm, mesure from the hinge pin near the tranny thrue the hinge pin how attach the rear hub??

More, could you tell me the part number for the diff locker??

Thank you!

David

what did you use for camber and steering links?

I don't have the new tires yet.It will probably have to wait till after Christmas ,kids might be mad if all presents are for me. locker: http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-Slash-Ru...1%7C240%3A1318 It's roughly 4 3/8 inches from Tranny hinge to carrier hinge. I'm using the Jato rear hubs,so it's just like a Jato. The steering links are from a Stampede ,but they are just long enough,I would prefer a little longer then 78mm.The fronts are from the rear of a VXL,but my shocktower has multible positions,and the rears are 94mm Emaxx lengths.

thanks

Could you use the stock Jato camber and steering link???
And why have you put a diff locker in your diff??? The Stock Slash diff is suppose to be tough and handle great power, no??

I don't think so,but I'm unsure as to there exact length.Honestly I had a bunch of different lengths here to work with and am unsure how they compare to stock. Here's a better build thread,but it's with a Stampede,so some things will be different, http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65373 It's not really how I did it,but thats what makes a project like this your own.

I think that i can not put the jato arm on the back of my slash, because i have the RCM aluminium trany case, and i can not grind the to-in block who hold the rear arm. Because i think that the jato arm, at the trany mounting point, is narower that the stock slash arm, right??

But if you can mesure the interior widht of the arm at the trany mounting point, this will give me an idea. I don,t know if you understand what i mean??

correct ,by 3/16 of an inch.If it was for a racer you could possibly get away with just grinding the arms,but for bashing there's no way I would trust it. I bet you could get someone to make a toe-in block for you relatively cheap,with the right size hinge point.

If i remove 3/64 on each side of the toe-in block and 3/64 on each side of the arm, i'll have the 3/16 and i'am sure that never will broke.

Edit : I'm following you now.Yeah it should work,I'm not sure about the FLM block.

Nice build. Had been looking at the slash chassis and jato wide conversion on ultimate traxxas. Saw your thread on the traxxas forums I believe. I've now also ordered the necessary parts and going to do the same build (with rpm jato arms and hotracing 17mm adapters, and maybe halfoffset lpr truggy rims with lpr bowtie's).

I had gpsed it at 48,but it had more in it.It was a little monster,with wheelies at will.If I had been willing to lose a little power,or loosen up the slipper more it should be fine.It's just kinda hard for me to compromise those things as a hard basher.All said and done I am very happy with it.My new shafts will hopefully be in on Friday,I'll slap some Talons on it and see what happens.

what killed the shafts/diff torque or speed or both?

Ys i want to know me too??

I have run my slash with badland tire, Neu 1509 on 3s on pavement and never break a shaft or diff:oh:

The torque with these tires.Once the diff is locked then nothing really loses traction with these tires.The shaft twisted out of the stub axle.But all the joints where they connect are obviously deformed.The tires are pretty new,so that helps with traction also.The weight of them adds alot of stress on your diff,when running stock.