E-maxx driveshafts, need stronger ones
 

I'm curently running style sliders and one my battery's second charge, i had one to brake. So i'm looking for some CVD's or dogbones that won't break to put in my maxx. Are thair any good ones i can get for a decent price? And were would i buy them?

Thanks for all the help!

You could try some cvds, but people have posted that they can break and bend. I have a setup similar to yours and am still using Traxxas sliders. I have not broke mine yet but if I do the are very cheap to replace. I also like them because allow a little "give" in my drive train.

for stock maxx - traxxas ones - 5151R are quite nice. tower has them

or get from mike 4x drive cups and dogbones

How about these?

http://www.rc-monster.com/emaxx.php?pg=2

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNTT8&P=ML

Personally I don't like the MIP cvds because the cup pin can spin out. I like cvds that have a retaining ring.

I've tried the 5151R Traxxas ones. Bent one right off the bat and since have had two of the stub axles snap off. The other 2 have held up and are still on the right side of the evo got stockers on the left side. Not real cheap fixing them when something goes wrong. I think it was $12 for a new shaft and the stub axles are $7 each. Haven't tried any other cvd for the maxx/revo that I can speak badly of. I'm a believer in the stock sliders and just replace when they were out or break. They usually sell in units of 4 complete shafts on ebay for a good price.

Stock sliders generally hold up well. Try loosening your slipper a little

With a powerful brushless a slipper doesnt solve the problem. I tried a few cvds and broke them running on 4s with a loose slipper. The only ones that has held up to locked slipper 6s lipo abuse is the mip 1665 cvds(was trying to see if the cvds would hold up, I broke 4 diffs, 2 sets of center shafts, and the tranny trying to see if the mips would hold and they did). They are expensive but worth every penny. I dont care or the cvd pin but when you put the cvds together dremal a flat spot in the pin and locktite the set screw down in the flat spot and they will not come apart.

WOW! You'r the first person that i've heard of talking good about mip. lol Before now all i've heard was bad things

Same here its hold up but I did not dremal a flat spot I just put duratrax threadlocker :)

im running the 1.5d on 4s and after upgrading to center CVDs only and 17mm, i havent had a problem yet!

Another Option.
 

There is another option you may consider, but it is not the cheapest way to go. You can buy the Traxxas stub shafts, and remove the plastic couplers(Dremel), and the pin(punch or press). Then install the stub shaft and put a heavy duty coupler on the inside of the knuckle. Finally have RCAlloys make up a set of custom dogbones just for your setup($20 a piece). You can even specify the dimenssions you wish for length diameter, and pin size. I am working on this setup myself right now for one of my Maxx projects. The axles will be 8 to 10 mm in diameter for extra strength.

I cannot tell you what length to get, because I am also extending my arms by 12mm for extra stability and handling at high speeds, so my dogbones will be very long. I can pretty much assure you though that this setup will not break. If anything you may break the stub shafts under some real heavy duty bashing, but they run like ten bucks a set, for 4 of them at T/H.

You also have the option of purchasing RCM stub shaft adapters for mounting up 17mm hex adapters. These work perfectly when using Axial beadlock rims. There are always options to consider, but I always lean toward the heaviest option available to achieve what we call "BulletProof" builds. I hate having to stop playing due to periodic breakage, because of inferior material setup parts. SO there are some other options for you to think about in your quest. Good luck with that.:lol::party:

Instead of removing the plastic couplers just go to tower and buy them. I made some stub shafts using the revo stub shaft axles:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFY7&P=7

Just cut off the threaded portion. I don't use them anymore since I'm using UE 8mm cvds so I sold them to a guy in the UK.

i had MIPs in my pede, they sucked. i know a lot of ppl r eyeing the Summit/BL E-Revo shafts

The MT-sized CVDs are much more stout than the Pede/Rustler sized ones- don't use the smaller ones for comparison- I have been using the same CVDs in my Maxx for over 3 years and they have a million miles on them. Just a few days ago I had the pin almost come out on my rear centerdrive- so I went and ground the flat on the middle of the pins on all 6 CVDs and used red loctite on the setscrew. If you do this when you first get them, you'll not have any problems. CVDs do get bent, and straightening them is not a big deal- I've done it numerous times without removing them from the vehicle- just takes practice. Keep them grit-free, and lightly oiled and they'll last a VERY long time.

The 1665 mip cvds are 6mm shafts(they are huge and bigger than any of the other cvds for the maxx that I have seen. The traxxas and vantage racing one s dont hold up! I killed the vanatge racing ones on my first run with them. My friend tried the traxxas ones and he broke 3 in the first week. The mips I put thew a torture on a locked slipper and 6s lipo with the castle 2200 combo. I broke everything but the mips! I also hada lst2 that had tuff as nails cvds(they were the stock ones and you couldnt break them) then come to find out that they are made by mip too!

They are expensive but again worth every penny for the E-maxx or E-revo. Most of the cvds out for the mts were made to go in the nirto vesions. They do not produce the torque of the electrics. Thats why the others are failing. Vantge even told me that and they are comeing out with a new cvd sometime this month to hold up to the electric powered trucks!

I took a look at the new drives for the Summit, can't tell if they're still plastic or if they're steel- but it looks like still plastic- what we REALLY NEED is a larger version of THESE:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUUA9&p=ML

Then again I'm also waiting for someone to step up to the plate and make ACTUAL BELTED tires, I'm not holding my breath.

It Says.
 

It says "Steel construction" right in the product description. They look pretty tough, but what else can you fit them in besides an AX10? I picked up some metal sliders on Fleabay a while back in an R/C lot type purchase, but they were made of something soft and just twisted so now they are unusable.

I know the ones I linked are steel- that is just an example of what they should do with all the cvds IMO.

The ones I wondered about being steel are the ones on the Summit- there's no parts listing on Tower for the Summit yet- but I think they'll be plastic.

He was talking about the construction of the summit's driveshafts, not the AX10 shafts he posted a link to.

Edit: nevermind, redshift just clerified.

I have had good luck with the MIPs...they are are 5.5mm at the shaft and 6mm at the axle (.5mm thicker than most others at the shaft) and probably the strongest available since UE no longer sells CVDs. Just make sure you grind a flat spot on the retaining pin and use plenty of red locktite.

ok, ordering mip's from tower

I have a set of 6 and 8mm UE CVDs if you're interested. I also have a set of UE 6mm Titanium cvds.

I agree with the rest that MIP is hard to beat.

UE's are nice, but since Robin doesn't make them anymore... You're SOL. Not too mention the UE's are 14mm hex's that cannot be upped to 17mm.

I still have an original set of Proline CVD's (made by mip) that are still running strong.

It will be in a couple of months :whistle::rules:.

What??
 

What do you mean by that Lito? Are you having some 17mm adapters made up, or is UE making some? Please clarify your meaning Sir.

Jerry, Menardo (respirology in the UE forum) will be making them. I'm second in line (actually first since he's making them) on the list to get a set. Here's the link.

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...=21327&acon=39

Go there and order a set.

Thanks.
 

Thank you Lito. I just sent a PM to Respi, so we will see if I am too late to get in on the order. He stated that he is only going to have enough adapters made to outfit 25 projects (at 5 pieces each order). The 17mm wheels was the only reason I was kind of hesitent about picking up your UE shafts. I plan on only using the Axial beadlocks from now on. Once I have enough wheels setup I will probably sell off all of my CA glued wheel sets. Anyway thanks for the info. We shall see how that goes. Later Man.

Got everything sunday when i got back home from a trip. a full $300 order from towerhobbies! lol CVD's seem nice! But MIP gave me a bad set screw so i'm still running 1 slider at the monent. I called and left MIP a message, no reply yet (been 2 days)

Bad set screw? Witch one?

I have a set of these if anybody is interested...brand new. RD-Racing 8mm stub axles w/bearings and 17mm hubs.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Kp13HP2HSnAhxYLpZor8rw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Go2PcH5NPr4/SXHpVCyEUnI/AAAAAAAAC2M/zwZhYW28Szg/s800/IMG_2765.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ssspconcepts/Revo?feat=embedwebsite">Revo</a></td></tr></table>

How much?

the one that holds the pin in the driveshaft.

If you would like I can send you one if you need it??? Pm me your address and its yours!

I hate to see these sit unused in my parts box...they are going to ebay.