i keep destroying spurs within 10 min. please help!
 

some of you may remember how i just got a Hyper 8 off ebay. well, i am having some issues here. 2 spurs came with it, along with a pinion. i only assumed they would fit. they did. BUT, the first time i went to the track within 3 ft the spur was chewed up. the next time, as soon as i tapped the trigger it was gone.

the strange this is, i drove it at my house, on the street and it was ok. this is probably where i chewed it up. ?? then once at the track just went kaput.

so today i went there and there was someone speaking of a Mod 1, 2, 4, etc. well i have no idea what this means. but i am sure one of you very intelligent people would be able to explain. :intello:

so what i got is the new medusa afterburner 2300, a MMM and pretty much stock everything. please send me to the right direction for my fixes and help me to understand what i am doing wrong. i am pretty sure the motor is tight enough. the mesh was probably ok on both and i am running 4s Lipo.

thanks again for all your help peeps!

First off make sure your mesh is right. Second make sure your pinion and spur are the same Pitch.. Mod 1 is the pitch of the teeth.


Your mightwant to take a look at metal spur gears...
Have any pictures of the setup?

Sounds like a mesh problem, either incorrectly set to begin with or depending on what kind of motor mount your using it could be chassis flex(not an issue w/ RC-M mounts)

Something isn't right. Before I got hardened pinions, I ran a plastic spur (Kyosho 46T) and never had any issues on my Hyper 8 (1512/2d on 4s). Assuming the pitch is right (and it would be very obvious if you tried using a Mod1 spur with a 32p pinion or whatever), I would look at the motor mount and check for possible flexing. You have a decent close-up pic of your setup - particularly the mounting scheme?

ok here are 2 pics i just took. dont mind the dirtyness and zip ties. i have not touched t since i drove 30 min to the track today and couldnt move 1ft. i think this IS the RCM mount. you tell me..

http://tha5150.72photos.com/view/pho...4/DSC02632.JPG

http://tha5150.72photos.com/view/pho...2/DSC02631.JPG

Either your using the wrong pitch pinion for the spur or your not setting the mesh right

Hmm, the problem probably isn't the mount then. How are the CD bearings? Is there any side-to-side play in the CD?

Brian, i dont see any play but i am no expert unfortunately. i might be looking in the wrong spot. this is a very new addition.

Revonut, how do i know what size this pinion and spur are? if they are Mod 1 or not. where should i look? where can i find the right parts if needed? nothing local unfortunately.

Drivetrain?
 

That rig looks pretty used. Did you doublecheck to see if everything rolls easily before hooking up the spur and pinion gears? You need to make sure that the center diff or tranny rolls freely, and all of the CVD's trun without any restrictions of any kind. Even with everything hooked up in my trucks I can spin my wheels with one finger and turn the motor in both first and second gear. The pitch of the gears is critical. They have to match exactly, and from what you described something in your setup is not right. A lot of guys run a metal pinion gear and plastic spur without any troubles. I run all metal gears in my setups, and put a small amount of Aqua grease on things to keep the noise levels down. If you get everything just right it is smooth and quiet. You might want a seasoned vet to have a look at your setup.

looks like the pinion doesnt mesh with the spur fully.. looks liek u should have a bigger pinion

Here's where you can buy the parts:

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...1pinion&cat=40

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...YOIF148&cat=40

I would also clean eveything up REAL GOOD during your rebuild. Also check those center bearings to see if they have a lot of slop/wobble and need to be replaced. Once you do get everything put back together, make sure the drivetrain spins freely when the motor pinion IS NOT touching the center spur.

To set the mesh between the pinion and the spur, use any plastic parts bag and put it between the spur and the pinion. Press gently on the motor pinion until the bag is snuggly sandwiched between both gears and then tighten the motor mount screws. You should end up with only the slightest gap between the gears. The drivetrain should still spin...but you will notice that the magnets from the motor will provide some resistance. There should NOT be any "mechanical" drivetrain resistance resulting from the touching (incorrect meshing) of gears.

I will leave it to others here to make recommendations for pinion size as it varies with different setups and unfortunately, I have zero experience with Medusa motors.

Hope this helps.

You need a new mod1 pinion. Yours has most likely been used with a steel spur at one time. I can see a couple of the teeth on the top that have been worn down to sharp edges. It only takes one sharp edge to do the kind of damage your experiencings. They will cut through a plastic spur like a hot knife through.....

Pick up one or two of the RCM hardened steel pinions Mikes sells. http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...1pinion&cat=40 Never had a problem with any of them. FYI I think all the 1/8th scale buggies run Mod 1 gears. If you have anything like a MT that runs the .32 pitch you can just use one of them to see what the difference is. After a little while of just staring at the two, you'll know the difference.

Yep, that pinion looks to be toast. Plus it is 14t, which may be a bit too small to correctly mesh with the kyosho plastic spurs, especially the 44t spur. Order up a couple 46t plastic spurs, and new mod1 pinions. 16t is usually about right...

And clean your buggy... A clean buggy is a happy buggy. Plus you need to check all of the bearings, driveshafts and diffs, and you might as well refill them with the correct fluid, and shim them... Used stuff is cool, and cheap, but you have to go thru it before you run it. If only to get used to working on it.

FWIW . . . I've run plastic spur gears only on all my conversions and many of them with pinions in the 10t size. I've never had any issues with stripping the spur gear. My 10t setup was on a CRT and ran perfectly with a Neu 1515 2700kv on 4s.

I have had excellent success with plastic spurs too. But by the look of the pic the motor is adjusted all the way close to the spur and the mesh still looks a bit loose to me. Maybe not, but that is what I se in the pic. He is most likely using the 44t spur, so the 46t may help with the mesh issue.

Totally agree - this seems like it can only be a mesh issue. Assuming nothing is binding in the drivetrain. Even then, I would imagine the motor would power through it and the drivetrain issue would end up breaking something in the drivetrain rather than strip the spur.

wow guys, thanks for all the help so far. i am going to order the 5mm bore, Mod1 pinion with the 46t Kyosho spur. a few of each. we will start from there and hope things work out.

yes i know this is dirty. i had it at the track 2 days before i just brought it back and haven't cleaned it. although when i first got it, i took it all apart and cleaned everything. looked beautiful. but once i got to the track it was back dirty again within 5 seconds. obviously.

how do you keep everything so clean? do you completely tear everything down after each run? forgive my thoughts, but thats seems a bit much to have to clean every time you run.

oh, of course. Pinion is out of stock at 16t :diablo:

One thing I've done is create a custom mud guard for my XT8 at the front of the chassis. I also put velcro on the sides of the body and side mud guards to keep the body tight. Here's what I mean:

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...Revision02.jpg

I don't do a deep cleaning after each run...just when it's needed. I do use compressed air after each run to blow the dust and debris off the chassis and out of my electronics.

During a deep cleaning, I use a lot of elbow grease, compressed air, gun cleaning brushes, Remington gun action degreaser, and then finish up by re-lubricating all parts that I use the degreaser on. A little WD40 doesn't hurt...but remember WD40 is technically not a lubricant...its application is for water displacement.

After I take one of my trucks out mud bogging, I remove the electronics and then use the high pressure sprayer to blast off the mud. After that, I do a teardown on all of the drivetrain components and put the WD40 to work. Then re-lube and re-assemble.

May not be perfect but it works for me.

now THAT looks clean.

how do you get it so clean though? yea i would like to keep it clean but isn't there another way of cleaning besides a rag and simple green AFTER you take every last screw out?

but like on the insides of your tires, they look brand new..



would an air pump work at the gas station???

Air compressors go for about $100 at Sears or Northern Tool and Freight....gas staion would probably work if they let you use the one that the mechanics use to power their pneumatic tools.

i was referring to the compressor you pay 75 cents for. lol

Gas station compressors usually are fitted with the tire-inflation tip. You'd need to devise something that will push the little pin (to release the air), yet not interfere with focused airflow. Just go get a cheapie compressor! :wink:

100 bucks isn't in my budget.. well thats a lie.. truth is i just got married and she will say no. lmao

Just get her some nice shoes and then she can't say no... :smile:

kinda like these??? hahaha

http://img.timeinc.net/instyle/image...highhi_400.jpg

May sound funny, but an old toothbrush and a clean rag go a long way w/o needing to tear everything apart. The photo I posted was after a full tear down cleaning and some new wheels :intello:

Although a good 3M green brillow pad will make your wheels look almost new.

Actually those wheels weren't new in that photo - just cleaned with a scrub brush and brillow pad.

Mmmm, yeah! :bad:

well as you can clearly see mine is discusting. i need to tear it back down, clean it up real nice and then make one of those front mug gaurds and put some velcro on the sides.

does this work really good or just an extra lil something to keep rocks out type thing?

anyone have a pic or 2 of a day after the track? this would be a nice comparison for me and then a pic of a decent cleaning

http://img.timeinc.net/instyle/image...highhi_400.jpg

Is this a Heather Mills design (Paul McCartneys Ex) or do they come in pairs.

I actually just types stripper boots in google to be funny. But you beat me cause you know what the heck these things are. Dang dude, props for knowing your stripper boots

HAHAHA, damn one legged chicks... How do ya spread em?

I do wan to know how your so good with shoes. ? Did you used to work with Al Bundy at the used shoe store?

as suggested, i think i might get myself a metal spur gear.

thoughts? pros and cons?

If you get a metal spur, you MUST get a hardened pinion. Not only is the metal hardened, but the shape/angle of the teeth match that of the steel spur. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like your current pinion is the regular steel type Mike used to carry a while back.

And as a bonus, the hardened type works with the plastic spur too.

Looks like you need a new pinion anyway no matter what you use for the spur.

Although, I would fix what the underlying issue is or you'll just keep eating spurs/pinions.

i just ordered this. http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=2224

would you suggest i get the metal spur or what? i really dont know the differance other than the metal would obviously home alot better.

i would like to order this tonight and hope its here by the weekend.

BTW: Mike has those hardened pinions here as well, and cheaper too: http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...1pinion&cat=40

But no biggie, since they're his parts anyway. :smile:

Sure, get the metal spur, doesn't matter. But if the original problem isn't fixed, the metal spur and/or pinion will get eaten up as well. Back before the hardened pinions were the norm, everyone used the Kyosho spur and it worked fine (quieter too). No matter what you get, a proper and consistent mesh is vital.

those pinions are out of stock and I WANT MINE NOW. lol..

i think i will go ahead and order up several spurs from mike. hope it is all here by the weekend. although i highly doubt it.