anyone got a pics of the inside of the Castle Neu?
 

so i am told that the Castle Neu's motor leads are not actually the copper wire from the winding but just regular 10awg wire soldered to the winding leads inside the can. has anyone opened their Castle motor and taken pics of this? i just want to see how the soldering job looks and how they did it. i would have done this on my own but i sold my Castle Neu the same day i got it. can anyone help me out with a pic? thanks.

Not sure if this helps.http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15900

Official Motor Thread



I have taken mine apart- what do you need to know.

He wants to know this :lol::

yeah, what George pointed out. i just want to see a pic of how the 10awg wire is soldered to the copper winding leads. do you have a pic of that brushless boy? or anyone? thanks.

Not right now, i havent taken off the rear end bell....yet.. Ill see what i can do

cool. thanks. if anyone else happens to have theirs opened up please post a pic of the wiring and motor lead solder job. thanks.

Your allowed to shorten the leads on the cc motors (or at least i have with no side effects :lol:) They are just 10ga wires, the same found on the MMM.

may I ask what your trying to do with the motor? :)

i am not doing anything to a cc motor but i like how the wires go directly to the esc without having to solder bullets so i want to make my Neu like that; solder some 10awg wire to the motor leads just inside the rear endbell and run the wire long enough to reach the esc. i just wanted to see how castle did it so i can get an idea and not screw up my motor.

You'd have to trim back the coil wire really far into the can, remove the varnish from the wires and make the connection. Sounds easy enough, but there are a couple problems with this for the average person:

1) stripping the varnish is done by a liquid solution. There is a possibility that the solution could wick up too far into the actual coils and short them out. Not good.

2) The motor can length for this type of setup needs to longer to allow room for those connections. Just look at the innards of a CC CM36 motor; the coils are actually a few mm shorter than a regular S can motor (same external size). So, it would be difficult to do this with a motor without that extra room in the back. And lets not even mention being able to make those connections without interfering with the insertion or operation of the rotor.

3) Connections shorting. Having soldered connections inside there is possible that they will short against the shell. You could heatshrink it, but that will wear away over time with the constant vibrations and such. Sure, this is possible, but not for your average novice solderer.

If I wanted to achieve the same visual look on the neus as the MMM motor, I'd butt-joint solder the 10g wires to the wires sticking out the motors, then use some heatshrink tubing over the neat join, making sure it went right upto the motor can and inside a little even, to prevent movement from wearing through the insultion on the wires as pointed out. It wouldnt look exactly the same, but close enough to look good. :yes:

this has worked very well for me thus far. thought about doing the solder inside the can jobber, but why risk destroying the stator in my opinion. would look better w/ full coverage heat shrink when i get around to it

this is exactly what i have decided to do after i already tried to remove the endbell on my tekno neu but its like glued with some serious shi* cuz i cant even budge the endbell after removing the screws. so basically it will be just like Slim's (looks good btw, Slim) but i am going to push the heatshrink just inside the can enough so that i can still heat it but hopefully have it look real clean. thanks guys. that really is my whole purpose in this-clean appearance. i just like the cleaner look of the castle motor leads without the extra bullets right there. i wish Steve Neu would just run the motor leads an extra 3-4" and not add all the tin to the leads. oh well, there must be a reason to his madness and i certainly cant complain about the best motors in the biz. i just really like a clean setup and when i saw those castle motors i thought that added to the overall "neatness" of a setup. but after buying a castle neu (sold it) i like the square Tekno neus much better.

i found some amazing solder i plan to use. it is made by Mundorf. it is 10% silver, 1% gold, 2% copper, and 87% tin (rounding off decimals). can you believe that?!!! it is the best solder in the world. period. i have seen the 45% -70% silver solder for jewelry and stuff but this is actual RC/Audio solder. Novaks Racing solder is only 3% silver. and on ebay there is some stuff that claims to be the highest silver content for any solder at 5.2%. that is what i have used in the past. the gold is added to this solder to give it a somewhat low melting point still cuz with all that silver it has to get pretty hot. melting point is at 522*. not bad. i think 4-5% silver bearing solder melts at like 430*. and the jewelry stuff melts at around 1100-1500*. aint no way your melting that with your soldering iron. at least i dont think so. anyway, it will be interesting to see if this solder makes a difference at all. if anything, the joints will be super strong.

Sweet. If I may ask, why did you opt for the Neu over the CastleNeu exactly?

its actually a Tekno Neu. 2 reasons. First, i love the new square can TEknos. they work perfect for my preferences - chassis mounted and a fan on top. Second, the tekno motor shaft turns very smoothly if you try to turn it with your fingers. the castle neu is not like this. it is very hard to turn. this causes more cogging at low speeds. i think it is a great motor still but i really just love the TEkno Neus.

Ah, fair enough.

I don't want to put him on the spot but if I recall correctly longbill76 used a wire brush wheel on his dremel to pull the coating off the wires of his Tekno Neu. I think it worked pretty well and no liquid solution was required. I am not sure how you would fare with the wire brush so close to the windings but it may be an option if you manage to get it apart.

In the past I have used a cigarette lighter. If you hold the flame over the varnish within a few seconds you can see the wire getting discoloured and you will find that the discoloured wired has lost it's coating and will solder or conduct current. With a bit of practice you can only heat up the segment required.

Mohan

I was going to stay silent but i have actually cut the leads down on two of my motors just using sand paper. It was my only option in order to get the motors to fit properly. One was a feigao 380c 9t, which ran the same before and after the operation, the other was a kontronik twist motor that already had a slight defect where the coils were touching the rotor, and you had to pull on the wires to prevent it. Cutting the wires down only made the problem worse. Through my experience, I would not recommend cutting down this type of wire unless you absolutely have to. FYI it is really a pain to get solder to stick to the thick copper strands, and there is every possibility that you will hurt performance while nothing you do can improve performance. Thats what matters right?

Soldered together and heat-shrink tubed. that's it. I've taken my CastleNeu apart and saw this.
Sorry I didn't remove the rear endbell to take a photo.
http://bbs.rcfans.com/attachments/da...cf4fBkQi58.jpg

hey Slim,
did you do anything to remove the tinning on the neu motor leads so that you could have flexible copper wire to solder to? i am just wondering what you did to join the two wires? the job looks pretty clean.

Ryu- nope just used a little flux on the wires from the motor and pre-tinned the 10awg. to the esc, toched the ends together applied some heat and BAM! we got a connection. due to the type of wires used in the windings (soft drawn copper) bending is a no no. they WILL break if you bend them back and forth alot. the way i did it allows me to service the motor or remove it or whatever without having to ever bend the wires.

thanks for the compliment, i like clean cars and it took some thought to get my layout the way i like it, but it works great and is ballanced pretty well as long as my batts. are around 500g.

so you didnt twist the wire together or anything? just butted the two ends of tinned wire together and that has held fine?

just butted the two tinned ends together and applied some solder and heat. this might not work as well without flux, i use it on every joint and never had one fail:)

i use flux for every job i do also. makes things a lot easier and sucks the solder into areas where you couldnt get to normally.

When I need to join two wire ends together, I usually use a butt-connector (restrain yourself linc):

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103512

I remove the plastic covering, tin each end, tin the wires, and heat up the connector and wire and it will slide right in. Once cooled, heatshrink the join. If done right, the join looks pretty seamless because the connector wall thickness is just a little thicker than the wire insulation so only a slight bump is visible.

Good tip, I may try that on the next hacker c50 I install. I have taken to direct soldering the wires that are included with the MMM and just plugging them into the MMM, one less connection to worry about.

WORD!:yes: i like the sound of that, stronger mechanicly and more surface area to conduct! why didnt i think of that:oops:

I have also used female 3.5mm and 4mm connectors. Just slip one wire in where it goes and use the socket for the other wire, on the 4mm, you can cut them down so they are shorter. Works the same ass the the butt connector, only gold plated.

does anyone know what kind of chemical solution is used to strip the varnish on the motor leads? i have tried the dremel steel brush and that doesnt work. i have tried the lighter and that doesnt work. and i have finally used a dremel sand disk and that worked but only on the outer layer of wire. so this finally got solder to stick but it doesnt actually penetrate the wire to make a good connection.

the good thing is that i havent cut the wire or anything. i just removed enough heatshrink to expose the varnished area to see if i could get this to work before i actually cut the wire shorter. if i cant find a way to strip that varnish i will just leave the wires the stock length and solder a butt-joint there. it would just look a lot cleaner if i can get the joint right up next to the can.

I have heard that you can use easyoff oven cleaner,just spray some in a cup and
use a small paint brush to brush in on.You can also try vinger and salt just like they use
to clean copper pennys it makes it all shiney and clean.