Serpent 960 brushless
 

Good afternoon,

I'm reading this forum for long time! I'm from Brasil and here we don't have a complete forum like this one!

What's the better motor option to Serpent 960 with 4s?

I want to "kill" the nitro Serpent guys.

Thanks

Aldo Ramaciotti

PS: Sorry for my bad english!

Welcome to the great forum of RC-M! I would go with a lehner motor, as they are extremely high quality 2 pole motors, which mean that they will "spool up" faster than a similar 4 or 6 pole motor. A lehner 1920 would be your best bet.

Thanks!

Wath do you think about the 1515 1Y? And the Castle-Neu 2650?

Regards

According to the Serpent site, the 960 weighs about 5.5lbs w/out motor/fuel/electrics. So, I figure about 7-8lbs loaded with motor/batts/etc. Something 4WD at that weight, I'd go with the Castle 2650, which is more like a Neu 1512 in size. Believe me, it is plenty big and powerful enough to accelerate that to 50mph speeds easily. A Neu 1515 or Castle 2200 are around the same size, and are a bit large for something like the Serpent IMO unless you are gearing really tall for insane speeds.

:oops:
I thought a 960 was a smaller car... In that case, a 2650kv castle or a medusa 60mm would be the hot ticket.

Hi Aldo,

I'm not sure if you have seen these 2 threads but here are the links.

The first one is my build of a serpent 950R. HERE

The second is a build by Serum. HERE

Good luck with the build. Make sure to keep us all updated.

Regards Andrew

Hey BrianG, I think that 5.5lb weight is ready to go.(except fuel,4oz) The last time I checked 5.5 lbs was the minimum for that class. Don

Good afternoon!

What do you guys think about to use a NoVak 4.5HV (with 4s) and what's the best gearing to run near to 140km/h?

Thanks again!

Aldo

I'll be watching this. I have 2 8th scale on-road and I'm thinking of some things to do with it.

What gears do you plan on using? eg. original serpent or modifying something else to fit.

To achieve the kinds of speed you are talking about with the Novak 4.5 I think you might run into some over heating issues if you plan on running continuously on the track.

Are you planning on using mechanical or motor braking?

1/8 onroad cars are a great build to do. You will turn a lot of heads when you are finished.

Keep the ideas flowing there are a heap of guys on this forum with a wealth of knowledge.

Cheers Andrew

Hi Andrew,

I think I'm will test the original 2º gear (45) with 20T pinion and 54/20 (jato spur).

I'll use esc brake.

In your opinion this gear will be fine?

Regards

Aldo

Good night to everybody!

Here is the first video of my conversion.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgG50ioLXDo


I ran with MMM + Novak 4.5, 4s 6000 and 44/19.

Best regards

Aldo

Da hora Also. Muito legal mesmo. Agora voce tem que colocar seu carro pra da um coro nos nitros.

Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Nice ....

How are the Motor temperature of your conversion after few minutes run?

and how about the speed comparing to 1/8 GP?

my conversion encountered heating issue of motor with 2100kv + 5s Lipo... motor temp up to 70deg cel. with 45/18 gear.

and my current speed is comparable to fastest 1/10 GP or slowest 1/8 GP....:yes:

hello, any companies out there have 1/8 Onroad Brushless RTR?

Not that I know of. Most of us are doing conversions. I'm currently working on an Evolva. I just took it to a machinist yesterday to have the motor mount slots cut in the chassis. Don

It would be sooo Nice if a company such as Serpent/Mugen/PRP etc.... could make a ARTR/ RTR 1/8 Onroad car BrushLess Lipo 4s and up car.

Losi/AE/Novak put their time into it, why can the 1/8 Onroad companies do the same?
The market is definitely there for it?

I was supposed to get a F108 from Serpent, but I think they have discontinued that model. I was talking with Mr. Baar (One of the Serpent's owner) and I told him I would get a chassis done for him as well to use for a 1/8 scale electric kit. I haven't heard anything yet, but Mr. Baar did mention they might do an electric version of the 1/8 scale cars.

I guess the Schumacher Speed Passion BL conversion is the way to go for the 960.

Here's my new video.

***CLICK***

P.S. Click the HQ button on the bottom of the youtube viewer window for a superior quality picture, it deals with the motion much better.

That this hauls some serious donkies.

Hi guys......I will Hi-jack this thread.....lol......I have bought Aldo's car.....

so, it didnt came in yet but ideias are flowing a lot......I have tried to convert a 835 serpent that is 1/10 scale.....no good for power I wanted, mmm 2650 with 4s.....nothing OMG but very good, dont fit at all........

So I saw the 960....now is mine......

The real question on the on-road cars is: for a Eletric car is there need to use the 2 spd transmission??? I ask this because it's the main problem converting this kind of car......

I need to kick some GP

setup i want to use until now is mmm 2200kv 6s.....but with mech brakes......

no need for 2 speed. a variable speed transmission was invented to keep an internal combustion engine in the peak of its powerband. an electric motor can make all its power right from the start and only efficiency changes. lose the 2 speed and kick some gp

Thanks to aldo who sent me the 960 already converted, its Ready!!!

MMM with 2650kv motor
lipo 4s 4400 20C
44/18 gear

The car is amazing, it make's me look a good driver :lol: , but I think the battery discharge is too low.....now I am goind to 4s 6600 20C.....with a good low weight........I am still lost on gearing......have downloaded Serpent software.......For Short Track I will be using 2650kv motor with 56-59mph top speed and for a long straight track something 70-75 mph but with 2200kv motor........what do you think guys.......???????

I think we need some videos - sounds great but think I'd go for a lower capacity and higher C battery...

I agree, but I will need to "import" that...........2 x 2s 30C 5000mah would be great right???

yes, it would be much better ;)

countryhick,
your car looks great. now i want to see vids of this other one too.

i have been seriously debating on buying this car. its only $300 right now for members.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Racing-Car-Kit

its the kyosho evolvs 2005 WC 1/8 on road.
i have been planning on converting a IGT2 for a while but have been busy on my 1/5. and now i see this. the IGT would be easier to convert for me but the evolva would be the much faster racer. the other thing though is that where i live the only 1/8 on road races are all IGT classes. nobody has true 1/8 onraod around here.

anyone have any info on the evolva? any owners out there? how is it and would it be a good one to convert?

i know i know, Videos on the way.....

4s 6600mah 20C is not enough with CC2200kv motor.....fast on short track, and after a few suspension adjustments i could run at full throttle....

gearing tested 45x20 45x19 45x18, best was 45x20, by serpent software, 92km/h.....theorical, could be faster on the track, its already faster than 1/10

the CC2650kv motor I will not run again, too hot with 4s.....

now I got a 5s 5000mah 30C lipo, the motor will spin at 40k rpm, about 100km/h on the track,

tested with 5s and it was amazing.......

photos.....

pic 1

pic 2

about 15min testing and I lost control and rear arm was broken lol......

5s with 48x19 gearing on a short track makes the 2200kv motor overgear a lot........with proper handling of the car, at the middle of straight part of the track you can hear the engine not revving up anymore......I will move to 47x20 ou even 46x20........

IMO, if you have the chance to get one of these, do it.....

next upgrade: lipo 6s 40C.......


basic setup for this track i run:
rear toe in 2
front toe out 1.5
camber f:4 r:3
blue springs
40W shock oil
shore 38 front 35 rear
this is the basic right.....

here are some pics of mine

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlJ4skDldlE


video.........

rhino 40C lipo arrived,

6s 3700mah 40C/50C

i think its a good weight for the power.....

if weather permits I will test this sunday.....

the punch it a lot bigger than turnigy (6s 5000mah 30C) and weight way less too, in hobbycity both packs would be 700+/-grams, but the turnigy is at least 100gr more than rhinos.....

The car looks great "Street hot". I think you'll find the extra voltage going to 6s will give you the extra rpm your looking for.... Just to compare I've been running 6s 44 spur/20 pinion.

Might have to blow the dust off mine and do some more developing.

keep us updated :intello:

nice nice, i probably will go low on gear on a bigger track.....next week or another I will go to the Hi-speed track....

by the way.....I have tested with 6s, gearing 48x16, amazing....too fast, exit corners were incredible......i need a video for this setup......

rhino batteries are good, incredible punch, even with 3700mah i got the same time than 5000mah turnigy......

I am speechless......I couldnt run with any nitro car on the track without danger to 200mm gp cars......more than once i have to pass them where i could fit my car.....i almost dont use brakes.....i think its normal for this kind of car......

And if someone have a hint on THIS:

"The car makes clicks, like plastic clicks on acceleration and braking, but A LOT of clicking on throttle on curbs, more tight curb, worst the clicking....."

1) the car seems to run normal
2) all belts are in place and look good
3) rear belt is orange, from another maker
4) rear spur has some dings but not worned
5) center belt is not the problem

I have disassembled the entire car looking for problems.....none i am aware of....last laps the clicking was so strong i thought something broken.....

any help would be great......

Possibly an issue with the front drive shafts floating in and out of the drive cups or binding when the wheels are turned?

in front is a cvd, i will check rear shafts and front cvd again.......

sERPENT 960 -- 134 KM/H
 

plz

check this out

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...454#post326454

Your belt is skipping, can be caused by many reason, but definitely is skilling within 1 of the belt....here is how I trouble shoot the belt skipping problem.

(1) Remove side belt...slow drive the car on the road, actually, GUN IT (accelerate) and listen (for a short distance, don't launch your car cause now without the side belt, you are 2WD, and that is = DANGEROUS). If you can hear the skipping sound again..it is BOTH your rear belt and pulley, replace all of them (all 3 parts)...I know 1 thing...you may not be able to see belt is wore or the pulley is wore...all it need is a 0.2mm of wear and your belt will skip...remember, you are running some nasty Brushless power stuff...this type of wear is totally expected.

(2) Mount your side belt on and try the step 1 again...if you don't hear the skipping sound from step 1 but now you do (with the side belt on)..then it must be the side belts and the side pulleys (happened to me 1 time before). Replace all 3 of those parts and try again...hopefully the skipping will disappear.

(3)...if skipping still occur...MUST BE THE FRONT BELT AND PULLEYS...replac them.

Hope that will help...and hope your next video is from the driver stand...the last video is good, but hard to see the run of your car compare to the nitro powered 1/8th car...like hard to imaginate.