Anyone notice the new clutch adaptors from Tekno!
 

Tell us what's going on Tekno. What's with the new 3 shoe and the new 2 shoe systems? I already use the current clutch system and love it.

2 shoe: http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=3937

3 shoe: http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=3891

The 2 shoe model is just an updated version of the original. The 3 shoe uses 1/8 scale clutch parts and bells.

I never had a good luck with the elektri-crap. I tried running it on my conversion but it was getting hot too quick.Mind you, I was using a 1/8 scale 4-shoe clutch shoe setup too.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture010.jpg

Here's my thread on how I installed a 1/8 scale clutch on my conversion.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16311

Correct. The new 2-shoe does away with the flywheel, collet, and clutch nut. So it's lighter, stronger, spins truer and is less expensive to setup.

The 3-shoe is also a 1-piece design and provides the most tuning and clutch shoe options along with the best performance. The new 3-shoe with the .7mm springs is one of the best setups we've tried.

As for the Elektri-Crap, I thought we emailed back and forth until your problem was solved. If not, give us some more details on your setup so we can try to help rather than calling our product a piece of crap. There are many reasons it can get hot, and the fact that we've run them competitively in truggies for over a year without issues leads me to believe there might be something in your setup that may be causing the problems (locked in 2nd gear by chance?). Or try the new 3-shoe...

We are exchanging all of the old adapters for the new 2-shoe adapter free of charge (just pay $2 for shipping). Send us your old Elektri-Clutch to our address with a return address and return postage and we'll take care of the rest.

Or, send us your old adapter and $10 and we'll upgrade you to our new 3-shoe adapter (clutch springs and shoes not included, but you may have some that work already off of your nitro).

The new 3-shoe adapter (no shoes) will now be included in all of our conversion kits except the Losi's, which will include a full 2 shoe clutch. The reason for just including the adapter is that most people converting should have springs and shoes that will fit right on whereas the Losi 4-shoe clutch and clutch bells are not compatible with our new adapter.

I definatelty think making a 1 piece design was a great idea. While i do not currently use the clutch in any of my vehicle I will say that it worked well in the revo I converted with the rest of your kit. I did leave the 2 speed and mech brakes and it always worked flawlessly. I did use a smaller than normal motor on 5s lipo and the clutch and 2 speed helped that motor deliver excellent performance despite being a little undersized. I only missed reverse, but not really a big deal.

That's the answer I was looking for!

I just had a great day at Revelation today with no electrical issues and one minor mechanical issue. All while using Elektri-Clutch V1. I actually had so much run time that I ran out of battery in my 3PK and had to call it quits.

TeknoRC, thanks for your support. I still didn't get the temps to go down even after putting the new clutch you sent to me. Like I stated in my build, my conversion's tranny is locked in 2nd gear. I'll probably try it again in the future but for now, I'll just enjoy running the truck using the long-shanked pinions I bought from your store.

If you have enough motor to not have startup issues, the clutch is not really needed. It is just another option, some will like the feel, others will prefer a direct drive with a pinion. I generally prefer the latter, but I did find a great use for the clutch adapter with a nitro 4tec bell and ran an 1/8 scale on raod car with a 2 speed. Worked like a champ. I did use al clutch shoes from integy, the 3 shoe type that came with a different flywheel. No slip and not bad temps either.

Yeah, 'the locked in 2nd' is probably the cause of the excessive heat. Clutches need a certain RPM/gearing combo range to work properly and locking in 2nd takes the clutch out of that range. So if you want to keep the single speed, direct drive is probably the way to go.

We realize the clutch is not a perfect system, like lincpimp said, it's another option. Our new 3-shoe is pretty cool though and allows a greater range of the above mentioned RPM/gearing combos. With the thinner .7mm springs, it would probably work good on a single speed Revo.

Keep on expecting a clutch-free conversion kit from Tekno. If that comes available I'll buy my second kit for my buggy.

James, I used to run the TeknoRC 1515 1Y on 5S on the revo. However, I had since taken the Neu out and installed the Medusa 36-70-2000 motor. I think there is enough motor in there and it just overpowers the clutch. Anyway, I'm happy with the pinions now so I'll run it that way until I get the itch to try the clutch again.

TeknoRC, how come you didn't go all the way with a 4-shoe?

All of the kits can be clutch-free. You can run a long shank pinion on all of our kits and we are now including the extra motor mount plates with the Losi 8/8T and RC8 kits. The Mugen, Jammin, HB, and RC8T/SC8 kits do not need the other motor plates to run a pinion. Also, only the Losi kits will still include a whole clutch setup (shoes, springs, etc). The others will just have the new 3-shoe included for use with your existing shoes, springs, clutch bells.

George16, there is no inherent benefit to a 4-shoe over a 3-shoe so we decided to go with the setup that is the most common and readily available. You can use our clutch shoes and springs or just about any others that are available (Kyosho, Mugen, Ofna, HB, AE, etc). We won't be doing a Losi compatible adapter since it is a much heavier setup and and we saw no extra benefit during testing. The trick with our new system is the thin springs. Since there is no motor to stall, we can run thin springs for great engagement. You can run thicker 1.0-1.1 springs as well if you want more of a nitro feel. The .7mm and .8mm springs feel very close to direct drive in our testing, just smoother.

TeknoRC, I tried .8, .9 and 1.0 Mugen clutch springs. It wasn't doing any good. I even tried it withouth the springs. Can you send some of those thin springs you're talking about? Thanks.

I'm not aware of anyone else selling .8mm springs for 3-shoe systems, do you have a link or part #? Either way, I think we are comparing two different clutch systems.

what is the fix because i have battled this overheating clutch for a year on my revo, when i asked tekno they said it was fine even though it isnt, i am still replaceing clutch shoes every time i go to the track, if there is why didnt you guys email me about it?

A question on the new 3 shoe clutch system that I have is about clearance between the clutch bell and the center diff mount? On my 8T when using the Tekno RC clutch bell I have to dremel a little (not an issue at all) to ensure that there is clearance for it to spin. I noticed that a standard nitro clutch bell's diameter is larger, which causes me to think that I have to dremel a little more for. Does that sound right?

That's exactly right. That's also the reason we went with the smaller clutch system in the beginning, because it fit in more places. Using the 44mm mount and a 13t clutch bell requires the most grinding while the 36mm mount or our new (yet to be released :) square can motors will provide more clearance. We've found that the Mugen and Losi required the slight mod, while RC8, Jammin and Hot Bodies more clearance.

Hello,
Not sure about a 'fix'. What is your setup? How hot is the clutch running? Let us know and hopefully we can help you out.

I figured you had that base covered......and I have been holding off on more motor purchases because I was hoping for square can versions of the 1512 and 1509. Which and when are they going to be available? The square 1515 in my 8t has been awesome. It's been worth the price.

Are there any plans of making blue spacers and longer screws for the revo motor mount? This is something I have seen other member do, to allow them to get away from the long shank pinions. It would be nice to have parts that were colored the same as the mount, it would be something I would be interested in. This would allow me to use the same pinions that I use for my erevo. If not, I will send in for the new three clutch system with thinner spring.

Teknorc: I was curious what effect, if any, that the long shank pinions have on motor bearings? During operation, doesn't the flexing/twisting of the chassis put stress on the motor bearings (front especially) from the spur/pinion pressing together?

BTW: I'm not trying to slam the product, just was curious about your thoughts on this...

That is the reason I was hoping for the extension to the motor plate would come out.

Good point. I've suggested Tekno in another thread to have Clutch-Free version of theire conversions, using standard mod 1 pinion instead of long shank for customers to choose from, but not very likely to be accepted.
So far Tekno is the only one insists using of a clutch among all those available 1/8 conversion kits, RCM, Novak, CC, RCdesign produts, Losi, AE, and new Hongnor.

its in my sig lol but here goes

revo platinum with 120k center diff
tekno Nue 1515 2.5D F
5 cell lipo
castle creations HV110 esc with CC BEC
revo responce tires
geared 16/36 33mph

my slipper is set fairly lose (the truck will not lift at all) the drive train is silky smooth, nothing binding or catching with cermaic bearing

after 5min my clutch is +325 degrees

i have tried alot of things includeing diffrent shoes,springs as well as 3 and 4 shoe clutches and vented clutch bells

i am haveing to change clutch shoes every race (traxxas stock revo)they are often deformed around the pin, blue in color and melted

i have tried sanding the clutch bells,and even running without clutch springs

i need a real fix for this before this season starts, i exchanged emails with tekno last year about this with no results

That's ok, I don't care either way. It's nice to have options for these conversions.

I assume you retained the two speed setup in the tranny? Sorry if this was already answered in a previous post...

Brian, thanks for your questions. No negative effects have been seen at all. This is due to the bracing around the gear mesh area thats included in the Tekno kits. This keeps the twisting/flexing confined to only specific areas of the chassis (kinda like a tuned flex Losi chassis).

No official plans as of yet. But be on the look out, I spy something new on the horizon...

Sorry, but the long shank pinion are the only option for direct drive. Reason is because of offering the clutch option and this requires more room. I encourage you to try the new clutch. We have been getting very good results.

Thanks for your support!

yes its still useing the 2 speed with close ratio gearing

It may have something to with the ESC you're using. It's an airplane ESC, so it has a soft start, which may be causing the clutch to slip excessively during takeoff. I tried an airplane ESC and there was just too much lag for my taste, even slower than a high value punch control setting on the Mamba's. Also, just in case no one has mentioned it, be sure the shoes are in the leading edge position, not trailing like you would have them in nitro.

The HV110 ESC doesn't have that soft start issue you are speaking of. Well, it can if you set it that way. My HV110 had just as much oomph as the MMM on my GTP.

Yeah, if the settings are wrong, there could be a lot of low rpm slip. But I wouldn't think it would be an issue if not even using a clutch spring at all.

the esc set up fine, i have run it with both a mamba monster V2 as well as the hv110, unless you have used both you couldnt understand how much better the hv110 is.

We may do another set of holes on our next run of motor mounts to allow this. Not sure when that will be though.

Hi Brian,

There are some locals who use the long shanks in buggies (RC8, Losi) and truggies, (Losi, Mugen). I always ask them how everything is running and inspect their cars every time I see them out there. So far, so good. No noticeable or abnormal wear on the gears and the motors are still smooth and quiet. They are running Losi, Castle, and Neu motors. The one guy with the RC8 races in expert buggy here and has been finishing on the podium the last few races with some SoCal competition. He's about to switch over to the new 3-shoe clutch though. That will be a neat experiment for us to watch. His friend switched and put him at the top of the sportsman buggy A-Main. I mention this because the clutch setups are slightly heavier and sit farther out than the pinions and we haven't seen anything out of the ordinary as far as wear with them either.

All of our conversions can be clutch-free :). We definitely aren't insisting that you use it. We won't be offering a direct to diff style mount though, go with RC-Monster for direct to diff style. The way our motor mount still ensures no flex at the mesh point while fully supporting the motor and providing extra cooling. The long shanks provide the easiest way for people who prefer direct drive to still be able to use mechanical brakes. We are seeing more and more people do this as the mechanical brake debate plays out. Having all of the options available on one platform was our highest priority. We haven't seen any issues with people running the long shanks.

All sounds normal (setup that is). Let's try again. A couple questions.

How hot is your slipper getting?
Can you hear the tranny shifting?
Are the shoes totally covered by the bell or is there some exposed?
Any pics of the Elektri-Clutch installed on the vehicle?
What's your top speed like? Do you feel you're calculated setup meets your actual?

Are you going to send in your old Elektri-Clutch for the new one? If so, include some of your worn shoes so we can take a look at them?

I guess that was a few questions. Hopefully we can fix this up for you. Thanks.

for tekno Rc

-How hot is your slipper getting?
i have seen temps varying from +200 degrees all the way up to 325 degrees on high bite tracks

-Can you hear the tranny shifting?
yes and if it didnt you could easly tell by how slow the truck would be going if it didnt shift

-Are the shoes totally covered by the bell or is there some exposed?
they are covered and the bell is properly shimmed, the shoes have 1 .001 shim behind them so they dont rub the flywheel

-Any pics of the Elektri-Clutch installed on the vehicle?
i can take some when i get home tonite, what exactly do you need to see?

-What's your top speed like? Do you feel you're calculated setup meets your actual?
top speed is 33mph calculated and radar varified (most of the tracks are tight and lose in my area so i dont need alot of speed)

-Are you going to send in your old Elektri-Clutch for the new one? If so, include some of your worn shoes so we can take a look at them?
im only going to send it in if we can fix the problem, other wise im not sure what i will do since im not happy with the long shank pinions. i dont have any ruined shoes at the moment but it wont take me long to ruin afew to send in with it.

One more question, how are the shoes installed?

If the two pins are 3 and 9 o'clock for example, is the 3 o'clock shoe on top or on bottom?

Your slipper seems like it's a little loose, although that shouldn't affect the clutch temp.

i have used them both leading and trailing with no affect on heat, right now my clutch is slipping alot more than the slipper, im only replaceing slipper pads and plates every 12-15 races.

i normaly have them installed leading as per tekno's instructions

the slipper is set to save the diffs and keep the wheels down when going to wot comeing out of a corner.

Just got my 3 shoe adapter.......
 

Forgive the ignorance, but which direction are the shoes to be installed with the new 3 shoe adapter. Do they go on like the 2 shoe set up or the other way. I have a set of Kyosho aluminum shoes I want to try and test fit. Btw, I am using the Tekno V3 kit for the Losi 8B and 8T.

Do you have the manual? Install them just as shown in the manual.

I have the original manual 8T that shows the proper 2 shoe installation. Then it made sense after I realized the way the motor needs to spin in order for vehicle to go forward. So I installed them the same way. Thanks.