Who's doing custom driveshafts?
 

Is RC Alloys still? There site is still up, but hasn't been updated in quite some time.

Mike? I thought I saw mention of it once, but he may have given it up due to being busy.

Anybody else? Quality, is of course, important, but quick turnaround would be lovely right now too.

Yep, Mike has done some for me as well as others.

try this place

http://www.rc-monster.com/

i know mike does, i have ordered from jamie at FLM with great results :)

I've never heard of them. Nice website though. Let me know if they're any good. :rofl: :rofl:

I need some THICK cvds... Don't we all? But seriously, I need a solid driveshaft for the rear of my Maxx. A mm or two longer then the MIP shafts.

we are running a batch of dogbones next week and could slip a few custom lengths in there

I twisted the shaft on the right rear of my truck. Is there a way to run a dogbone to the carriers? I have the UE racer x arms with 2.5 style bearings.

If you bent/twisted a shaft, why not just replace it with the right part? Dogbones do poorly front the diff to the wheel. A CV works a lot better.

Right part? I spent over 2k buying the right parts. Do you have any suggestions?

I don't know why all these cvds are too short.

I guess I should have asked what truck, what CVs, what setup, what...? so I knew what you were talking about.

Its a 3908 E-Maxx with Unlimited Engineering Racer-X suspension. The carriers use the older style ball bearings. The suspension arms on the rear of the truck is offset about a half inch towards the rear of the truck.

Are those UE setback arms?
what CVs are you running?

Can you post a picture?

Holy bent CV, Batman!!! :gasp:

How on earth did you manage that?


-Travis

P.S. Those wheels/tires are OUTRAGEOUSLY OVERSIZE!! :gasp: Makes the suspension look like its made of tooth picks. Something tells me these had something to do with the bent CV...

:grrrrrr:

Its borderline to short..... once it bowed FUBAR'd itself

what CVs are you running?

MIP yea

I need some driveshafts that have some mass behind them

I think the problem you are having is two fold.
1. the MIPs are not very strong
2. they are a little short and you aren't compensating enough with the pillowball depth

What I think is happening is that they come half out of the drive cup, then all hell breaks loose.

UE CVDS would solve your problem, but of course they are out of stock today. eta on more is 30 days.

Until then, straighten that mip with a hammer and block of wood and screw the pillowballs in deeper.

See this photo, notice the depth of the drive shaft in the drive cup. That's what you are looking for.

Is Robin still making cvds? Then I need 17mm adapters.


I can wait for the right parts!

If you have a way of contacting him, please let me know. I have emailed him before with no response.

I am Robin.

I answer all messages. If I didn't, it didn't get thru for some reason. sales [at] ueusa.net

We are making CVDS up now and will be on the 17mm hexes in the near future.

:party: I didn't know that!!!! I will definitely buy a set when they are ready! Love your parts! Have you ever seen a plastic bulk E-Maxx with racer x arms?

Pillow balls are all the way in and the MIPs are still short. Ofcourse I bowed them with the old wheel setup. My truck should be bullet proof after this.... Exception being the bulks.

I believe I have 6mm axles?

:yipi::yipi::party:

Have you heard of 4340 super therm chromoly drill rod?

drill rod is very brittle and would not be suitable for this application

It was a suggestion from my lhs...

Would it be possible to leave a little extra meat on the bones when you machine my set?

It has been explained before, that having this "extra meat" you speak of on the CV (or dogbone), only weakens the part. This being because you still have to turn the end down that goes into the drive cup, so it can operate at the required angles. This leaves you with a shaft that is thicker in the middle than on the end...therefore, the end becomes the weak point. When the CV (or dogbone) takes an impact, the area that's the thinnest (in this case, the end that goes into the drive cup) will take most all of the load, since you've made the rest of the shaft bigger, so all the load is transfered to the weakest point...making it fail easier than if the whole shaft was one consistant thickness (this way it could transfer the load from the impact over the whole length of the shaft).

Robin has engineered his parts to actually take the beating, not just look like they can. And its been proven over several years of hard use and abuse by many veteran UE users. If you switch to using UE CV's, I'm certain you won't have any more issues like what you've had with the MIP shafts. No change is needed to his design, to make them stronger.


-Travis

Alrighty then

Do these bend or break? I just want to prevent bending them, don't think I would have any issues breaking them. This "extra meat" sounds like it would add torsional rigidity as long as it was machined smooth with no hard edges.

Its exciting news that Robin is running more CV's...these things are kind of hard to come by these days, and they're almost always used, if you do find some.

If you can wait, and don't need anything right now, I'd advise you to get some of his when they become available. You won't be disappointed!


-Travis

I have bent a pair of UE cvds... A long time ago. It was on an Ofna Monster Pirate with the proline conversion bulks and a RB TM728.

No question I want a set! Robin, ygpm.

-Anthony

Like I mentioned, if you get the drive cup depth wrong and it comes out all hell breaks loose.

That or in a crash. CVs aren't meant to take that kind of load.

That's about the only two ways I know of to bend a CV like was shown above.

The ones in the picture above were too short and popped out. The ones off of my dominator had a small bow at the end of their life. Time will tell. I am certain they will outclass the MIPs

Could part of the problem here be that the setback arms and the MIP's are not a good combination?

From what I understand, the MIP's are a smidge shorter than the UE's? And when I set up my Racer X suspension for the first time, I noticed that the setback arms definitely require the pillow balls to be set as far in as possible to get good depth on the CV and drive cup...and that's with using UE CV's! So if I've got it right here, given that the MIP's are a bit shorter, they would definitely have a good chance of popping out when used with the setback arms. No?

Just a thought.


-Travis

Not sure if they work but traxxas used to sell extended CVD cups for their setback arms on the revo.

http://traxxas.com/pitpass/howto/new...lbase-Suspensi

Here you go

I have exhausted my options for now, I'll wait for the new batch:intello: