MMM v3 issue....
 

So my 2200kv combo plain out rips and I am more than happy with the performance but...... the on/off switch seems to be glitching. It will randomly turn off and if I pick the rear end of the truck up about 4-5 inchs and let it go the jolt will turn it back on??? :oh:

Anyone else experience this at all....

Should I email castle and send it in???

Just looking for some guidance from those in the know so to speak.

Thanks in advance

Could be a dirty switch, or a bad connection on the switch or any wires. If it was the switch or bad power connection, the ESC would go through the arming cycle. If it was a connection issue with a motor wire, it would just come back to life (although you'd most likely get severe cogging if it was a motor wire).

Not sure how this affects the warranty, but I always replace the stock slider switch with a sealed toggle. Not only does a sealed switch keep dirt out, they generally are more resistant to being turned off with a hard jolt (as from jumping). The switch in the link is rated for 3A @ 125v which is FAR more than you need, but the heavier current switches seem to have a more solid toggle action.

The ESC does go back through the arming cycle which is what lead me to believe it is a bad switch...

I'll read the manual and see if I can change the switch without voiding my warranty... :yes:

Thanks Brian :mdr:

Provided you don't go anywhere near the motherboard Castle said it is ok to remove / replace the switch...

Hmmm this is very good news... :mdr:

Yes, that is good news. Although, I replaced mine even without knowing that.

Why not just cut the switch off and solder the wires together, again going nowhere near the circuit board. I'm not sure I have found a use for the switch yet since you are not supposed to leave the batteries plugged in anyway.

Shhh, don't tell anyone (especially Patrick), but the switch is how I can use the "no-spark" resistor to slowly charge the caps. When Patrick said the "arming" sequence is what causes problems with the MMM, I figured that the arming is simply drawing too much current through the resistor, which creates a wildy varying voltage drop getting to the ESC brains. If I leave the switch off when I use the resistor, the ESC doesn't arm and therefore no problems. Once the caps are charged and the battery is directly connected, it is safe for the arming sequence to commence.

BTW: I am in no way advocating doing this because I'm sure it will void the warranty. It's just one reason why I personally use a switch.

I've reported this post for inspiring bad behaviour! ;)

I'm sure your address is blacklisted for returns anyway :)

I added a disclaimer, so I'm all set. And I use my work address for all shipments/returns, plus few here know my full last name. There could be 1000 "brian g"s in Des Moines. :wink:

I just cut the wires and soldered them together.

I replaced mine after what thrilled me as the MMM is dead. Thank God it was just the switch said bye bye.
No need to say, the switch is an obvious weak point in the MMM, especially for dirty offroad applications.

Probably the route I'm going to take today since Castle ok'd it :yes:

Castle ok'd it??
Sometimes (only twice) my MMM will not even turn on!! The first time it did that I almost cried! :cry: And I'm 21 :lol: Is it the Switch??!!

Yeah castle said I could splice in a new switch and or eliminate the switch as long as I didn't go near the motherboard... :mdr:

All done and problem solved :party:

Cool what about dis: Sometimes (only twice) my MMM will not even turn on!! The first time it did that I almost cried! And I'm 21 Is it the Switch??!!