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Thinking of selling my brushless Racemaxx??
hey guys,
well i knew the time would come. i would start thinking about getting into nito. it has come and im thinking about buying a revo. i dont think i can afford to race both my brushless racemaxx and a revo, so im forced to sell my emaxx if i buy a revo. the major thing is, my truck can only run 5 minute mains. at my local track, im the only one out of 10 people that race an emaxx in the Monster truck class. most people have t-maxxs and revos and savages. last year, they were forsed to only run a 5 minute main insted of a 10 minute because my truck can only race 5 minutes. a few times they ran 10 mitutes and my batts dumped at about 6 minutes in. then i had to watch a revo that i had laped go by me basue my packs dumped. i now have 3 sets of gp's and a triton charger, and i guess that i could do a pit stop, but that would be alot of charging. i guess i could deal with that and just race my brushless, thats only part of it though. 4 times a year they have a trophy race on sunday and they run 30-45 minute monster truck mains. i am forsed to sit out and watch this awesome race because my truck only runs for 5 minutes. i am just outnumbered by nitro and they want to run longer mains. i am forsed to buy a nitro to compete in this. i was beating all the revos and coming in firs almost every week with my truck and that was only running on stock motors. i think i would blow them out of the water with BL. i really hate to see this truck go because its my first real r/c and i ave only had it for a year, but i guess im forsed to sell it. i really liked being the only electric out there and actully beating nitro trucks. what do you guys think i should do? got any ideas? if i sold all my electric stuff, i would have plenty of money for a revo, all race upgrades, airtronics M8 and a spektrum system, and a personal transponder. i guess itts makkng more and more sence to go nitro. |
selling
Do you have specs of your e-maxx and for what would you sell it?
I think in your situation it's a good decision, then you can also race those great long matches but you won't have the simply electric truck anymore. |
heres some pics. i think i would part it out because its almost a full supermaxx truck. the aluminum racebomb is only 1 of 10 made. its a very rare chassis and awesome for racing. i would sell it out right for $1,900. that would include everything but the radio and reciver. that price would include 3 sets of almost new gps and a triton charger and power supply. i dought anyone would want to buy the whole thing.
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...5/DSC00447.JPG |
I don't see the picture but I also doubt that someone would pay 1900 dollars for it.
I think it will be hard to reach that value, If I sell a truck I always lose 50-60 percent of the newprice. I seems not fair after all the time and investments you made but it's reality. |
I do see the picture, sorry!
nice truck, it's running on 12 cells and what kind of feigao is that and what kind of controller. |
I think the people who want the truck complete don't want or need the charger and want a radio, I think 1900 is not possible, do you know the newprice?
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im gonna look into li-po and mabey keep it.:confused:
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LiPo = good idea! With the right LiPo setup, you can run the long mains (10 or 15 without a pit stop). You will need to pit for the real long ones, though. you may want to get a slower motor and consider running higher voltage (LiPo) to take advantage of the efficiency advantage and cooler running tendencies. Smaller/lighter wheels and tires will help runtime as well.
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mike,
have you tried lipo? i can get 2 packs of 8000mah for $350. i dont know, it just seems like its worth it to buy a revo. |
I have tried Lipos. I have a few packs of different sizes. If all you do is race and you are the only electric guy there, I see where you are coming from. It would be a shame to loose that e-maxx, though. It is a nice ride. Can you get a revo and keep the e-maxx? It won't be cheap to get Lipos and a charger for the long mains, but it is a one time expense (vs. nitro fuel, glow plugs, etc.) and will be a lot easier to maitain (nitro is dirty and loud). Don't get me wrong, I love the nitro stuff, too. But brushless is by far my favorite.
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well if i can get my truck to run a 30 minute main, i will keep it, but i dont really think that is possible. my truck is a bit on the heavy side, and i would like to get a g-maxx chassis and g-maxx suspention. that would help with runtime. i guess i will just wait and see my choices. 350 is alot of money for 1 set of batts, and if they are not treated awesome, they will go up in flames.
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"if they are not treated awesome, they will go up in flames"
Not entirely accurate, but justified I suppose (I'm sure you have heard stories). LiPos are more dangerous than Nicads or Nimh because they contain more energy. This energy must be respected for sure, but they don't need to rest on pillows at night either. Certainly, they must be handled with care and respect, but they will also last a lot longer than the nickel batteries (10 times as many cycles if proerly cared for), have no memory and weigh half as much! Not to mention that if you spend that much on batteries, you should take some extra time to make sure they are kept in good order. I have seen plenty of nicad/nimh batteries burst at the track from carelessness or shorting issues, too. |
yea, i guess their not as bad as people say they are. would it be safe to run a 14.8 volt pack on the 8L (im running 14.4 now)
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Yes, it would be safe, as long as they could handle the amp draw (would still be safe, but you would kill the batteries)
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hey mike, i am confused on adding up the 2s2p stuff, i know they are series and paralell, but if i bought some 3.7 volt 4000mah cells, and i need to have 7.4 volts for each pack and 12000mah for each pack. just say i need this as an exapmle. i know i have to have 2 in series to get the 7.4 volts, but how many along with that to get the 12000mah...im guessing 3 in paralell but im not sure. this is confusing the heck out of me. please help:confused:
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well let me tell you my awesome plan:D :D ok i found these on ebay... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW this guy sell hundres of them a month. now if i can get them for 20 bucks each...thats a good deal and i can build pack however i want them. now, i just need to know how many cell im gonna need in series and paralell. they are only 6C continious and 10C max, so i need to have between 12000 and 16000mah from each pack. i know your thinking this is insane, but it would only be around 200 for both packs of 16000mah!!!! thats awesome and may put me almost to 30 minutes of runtime. look out nitros, i can run 30 minutes with no pit stops!!
so i need to know how many i need to have 16000mah and 7.4 volts. imn thinking 2s4p but i im not positive. please explain how this s and p thing works when you add them. |
You have it right. A 2s3p is 7.4 volts and 12000mah if the cells are 4000mah. You could also get two 4s packs and run them in parrallel (so 8000mah and 14.4 volts), or two 4s2p in parellel(so 16000mah and 14.4 volts). What cells are you looking at? I have the Kokam cells (few different sizes) and I like them because they offer a high amp draw for the weight. I also only run for 5 minutes most of the time, so I am not trying for runtime so much as weight savings(runtime is a side benefit, though!). Pollyquest makes some nice packs that offer nice discharge rates and a higher mah per ounce than the Kokam cells (lower amp draw per ounce, but higher mah per ounce). With the Polyquest packs, you could probably get a 15 minute main in at around the same weight as your current set-up (so a pit for the 30 minute main).
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look at these mike...http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
also look at my above post. 17 bucks a piece is a great price...problem is they are only 6C 10C max discharge, but if i made them into 16000mah packs that would be 96 amps continous and 160 amps max...plently for the truck. looks like im going li-po!!!! that would be close to 30 minute race time on a single charge...i would only have to charge them once a week for the races and i would be able to run the trophy races. would the motor/esc get to hot if i ran for 30 minutes continous? i would gear down alot if i needed to. also thinking about getting a g-maxx chassis and suspention to drop weight. |
hey mike dont you mean 2s4p for the 2 packs of 16000mah 7.4 volts? wouldnt 4s2p be 14.8/8000mah? thanks
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also..mike i know its alot to ask, but do you think you could draw up a diagram for a pack of 6 cells in 2s4p config. with 7.4 volts and 16000mah. i will run 2 of these in my truck for 14.8 volts/16000mah. thanks soooo much and i will order the cells as soon as i see the diagram. thanks again
Isaac |
This will be a bit heavy, but will get the job done. This will be the equivilent of hauling around 21 nicad/nimh cells, though, which will have a big impact on your handling. You may be better off with 12000mah packs and a pit stop. This brings the weight down to about a 16 nicad/nimh cell equivilent, which you could almost make up with a g-maxx chassis and a few select parts, and would still give you 72 amp continuos capability and 120 amp surge ability, which should be safe. It would be a good idea to have a nice heatsink and fan on the motor to keep it cool for the long runtimes, too.
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you could also try a guy named xjyd on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...959627797&rd=1 his packs are 8-10 continues and 15c peak. he only has up to 5400mah packs listed right now but can get other configurations. I am currently running 2 7.4volt 6600mah packs from them and 2 4950mah maxamps packs. there prices are also good my 6600mah packs were 160 or 170 shipped for the pair.
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Those seem like a pretty decent deal. Two of those in parrallel gets you 8800 mah and 70 amps continuous at about the same weight as a pair of nicads/nimh (probably same weight as 13 cells), and could peak at almost double that amp draw. The price isn't bad, either.
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