Hobbywing 150A Ezrun esc review
 

Hi, I saw hobbywing ezrun 80a esc review I tot hv a 150a esc review will be good. Any good or bad comment?I just got 1 waiting to be tuned n race

So you have a 150a version? I'd love to see a reveiw. Post up some pics of the esc and your setup.

sure, I used a airplane hobbywing 100a esc for replacement due to my ex mmmv2 n v3 failure. I found that it can handle heat better. So I sold my mmmv3 away n gave the 150a a try I m sure it won't disappoint me.

it's after my 22nd race guess wat? The esc burnt not due to race but due to short circuit. Use a 6s 5000 zippy for my 30main but before the race, when I set the punch to 1. It burnt worst thing now is I email hobbywing, no reply. My worst fear came true

How did it get short circuited after 22 races? Anymore information on it?

Did the ESC short or did the motor or battery short and took the ESC out with it?

This is my review I posted in another forum:

I had about an hour today to work on my RCs and pulled out the MM + KD36-74-6XL 2800kV and put in the EZRun 150A ESC and SL3674 2350kV motor.
The motor is the same physical size as the 6XL it replaces. It's a purdy blue instead of the KD36's red (I like blue much better). The motor includes a heatsink and a fan that's mounted onto the heatsink. The fan plugs into a fan output connector on the ESC. This is a great feature! It's so clean looking! See my EZRun 80A review for what the setup looks like. The EZRun 2350kV motor has about 1.5mm less inner winding clearance for screws than the KD36-6XL, so I had to use a spacer.

The 150A ESC is the same physical size as the 80A. However, it uses a different PCB (black instead of the 80A's green PCB) and much larger, higher voltage, higher capacitance input filter caps. It also uses 10ga wiring instead of 12ga found on the 80A. I wanted to keep some flexibility in the individual pieces, i.e. should I ever run a super hot motor or convert a 1/8 MT that weighs 12+lbs, I want to use the 10ga wire and 5.5mm bullet connectors, and if I decide to use the motor with an 80A other other ESC, I want to use the more common 4mm bullet connectors. So I soldered 5.5mm bullets to the ESC, 4mm bullets to the motor, and made 5.5mm bullet to 4mm bullet adapters. Works out quite nicely. A note to users of the 80A and 150A ESCs, do NOT use the "auto-detect" feature for LVC. It works with 2s, 4s, and 6s only. Even then, I recommend (as does the Hobbywing manual) to set the cell count yourself! I did auto-detect without fully reading the manual and didn't see that it didn't work with 3s, and it was slow and eventually kicked off LVC constantly. Once I manually set it to 3s, DAYAMN!!!...it started hauling ass! Tires ballooning! No steering because the front tires kept going off the ground! On 4s, acceleration would be even quicker! I do plan to also run it on 4s also. I have enough pinions to run both battery setups and I'd gear them to run about the same top speed. Which one I run at the track will depend on how the track is. If I need faster acceleration, I'll run the 4s. If I need more control, I might run the 3s. For general running around, I plan to run the 3s setup. It looks to be hitting 40+mph easily...possibly more. It was 8pm when I got it all working, so it was hard for me to see and I didn't want to floor the throttle at night where I can't see what I'll run into.

Added:
Ran the truggy a bit today. ST-1 looks about 39mph. The ST-1 accelerates really quickly and hits top speed very quickly. It looks overgeared (too short a gearing) with the 19T pinion and 50T spur. I'm wondering how it would do with a 46T Kyosho spur and 20T pinion.

I was doing top speed runs up and down the street till the batteries hit LVC. The hottest the 150A ESC got was 86F and the hottest the motor got was 112F and that was with a lot of braking because I was running out of space on the street. It was fairly cool today...about 67-73F depending on if the clouds came in or not.

The setup looks to have power to spare and seems to want taller gearing, which means even more top speed which would make me run out of street even faster!

A couple of reasons I like the EZRun much better than the MM it replaced:

1. NO GLITCHING AT ALL!!!! The MM setup would glitch a lot, which sucks when you're in mid-air and need to correct for your landing and it glitches and you land retarded! It's probably due to the combo with the external UBEC, but I didn't have a problem with the same type UBEC on another setup, so it was only with the MM.

2. It's FASTER!

Other reasons...

3. It runs so much cooler!

4. Built in UBEC is a much appreciated feature.

5. I love that little program card! So easy to pull it out and set everything up. I don't need to drag my laptop to my garage, hook up a USB cable, blah blah.

Compared to the 80A/SL3665 2300kV setup in my E-Sav, the E-Sav one is faster, but that's because it's running on 4s. I'm sure the 150A/SL3674 2350kV setup would be just as fast, if not faster and more brutal on 4s.

Here's a description of my truggy and setup:

Thunder Tiger ST-1 Truggy
EZRun 150A ESC
EZRun SL3674 2350kV Motor
Robinson Racing 19T Pinion
Stock TTR ST-1 aluminum shocks and black springs (springs preloaded 10mm front, 20mm rear)
AE 60wt shock oil
JConcepts Rulux 1/2-offset Wheels
HPI DirtBonz Tires
Currently 3s LiPos (2x 3s packs rated at 2750mAh each, 69A discharge in parallel = 5500mAh, 138A discharge)
If I run 4s, I will use a 12T or 13T pinion

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/9646/img3183k.jpg
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/8235/img3176.jpg
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/5206/img3177p.jpg
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/1416/img3180i.jpg
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/2738/img3181t.jpg
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/6097/img3182q.jpg
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/9690/img3184l.jpg

sorry it was the first race for the hobbywing esc on 22nd of march.the burnt was caused I think when I change the setting of the esc. Moreover I was using 6 cells,only the esc burnt motor n batt was ok.

I think it has some issue with this patch of 150esc, I heard from the agent. But anyone has tried asking for support from them? Heard that there's always no reply.

So did u have any problem setting the punch control of the HW 150A? There have been a couple of HW150As getting destroyed when the punch control was set to 1. Was it just a bad batch? Is it safe to get the HW 150A now?

u should ask me, mine was destroyed when set to 1.anyway I sent mine for service n most prob will get a replacement as mine was burnt. Will post pics later

I heard it was a bad patch

this is how it looks like BBQ:lol:

Sent it to HW straight or through your agent for a replacement?

I sent thru agent safer n can pester agent

Hi, Superek4,

could you send the mail to hobbywing again? The mail address is sales@hobbywing.com and support@hobbyywing.com. Sometimes the mail systems in China cannot work properly because of the politics problem. That is not a joke.

I found this thread just a few minutes ago when I was browsering the forum.

Have you sent the burnt ESC to the agent?

I have very few time on this forum, so please send message to me by e-mail although it is always unreliable.

hi, I did sent many emails to all the address u guys have on your website but no reply. All my friends in Singapore are worried abt their hobbywing esc now. Pls gv me a better email address thx

You can also contact direct at alanhoon@yahoo.com.sg

Seems like we can have something to expect from Hobbywing's after sales support. It kinda boost my confidence in getting the HW 150A esc. :D

wat I m worried is, can I still set d punch on a new esc

Does this happen on the 80A version?

we dun knw yet but so far is too 150amps, my friend blew a 60a dun knw y too.

I had my 80A set to 1 for a while and no probs. I never set the 150A to 1. One thing to remember is that the HW ESCs, the punch settings are opposite that of Castle's ESC. For Castle, the higher the setting, the MORE punch control you have meaning LESS punch. For HW, the higher the setting, the LESS punch control meaning MORE punch.

So far so good.

I dun think so, the manual says the higher d no the higher the punch for 150a

Isn't that the same as wat JSR has mentioned?

"Level1 has a soft start effect, while level9 has a very aggressive start effect" from hobbywing manual

For HW, the higher the setting, the LESS punch control meaning MORE punch (by JSR)

Isn't it the same?

superek4 - we are saying the same thing. I just mentioned that to highlight the difference between HW and CC.

Thanks LG.

I was feeling confused. Just wanted to be sure that both of you are saying the same thing. Anyway I've received my HW80A. LOL this thing looks like it needs to go on a diet. Seriously something is wrong with the engineers at HW. What were they thinking of when they designed the heatsink/fan? Do u really need 4 M6 screws (total 10g) to hold a 20g fan to a heatsink?

The actual weight of the esc (with all the stock wiring) is 178g.
And what is the white stuff that is sandwiched between the heatsink and the heatspreaders? It is sort of jelly like and doesn't seem to conduct heat very well. It doesn't feel cool to the touch as well. And there is some distance between the heatsink and the heatspreader. They dun actually touch at all. The heat transfer may not be very efficient in this matter.

The white layer din't come into contact with 2 rows of heatspreaders. I had to change the orientation of the layer so that it touches most of the heatspreaders. Can anyone explain what is the white stuff? Is it some kind of thermal pad? Is it safe for the heatspreaders to be eletrically connected? I mean can I place the heatsink directly onto the heatspreaders without the white layer (thermal past will be used in place of that)? Some modding will be neede though if i were to do this.

Sounds like either thermal grease or thermal pad (not sure since you first mentioned a jelly like substance, then a white pad later). Direct metal to metal contact is actually a poor method of heat transfer as neither surface is truly flat enough to conduct heat efficiently as air is a poor heat conductor. A thermal layer is usually used to account for the lack of actual contact between surfaces. Not sure how far the heatspreaders and heatsink are. How can you tell they're far apart? Because of how much jelly there is when you pull them apart? You also have to consider the environment the part will be used in. Perhaps they wanted some space as an impact from the top would translate directly to a compression of the PCA beneath if they were in direct (or near direct) contact, which may happen in an RC application (i.e. if the car/truck flips over with no lid).

The heatsink is about 2mm away from the heatspreaders and in between is a layer of white pad that is made of some material that feels like hardened jelly.

I will try to take a picture of it when i get the chance to take apart the esc.
Right now it is in my e-savage.

just an advise try not to set the punch to 1. U may burn the esc, there's a batch of esc with software problems. I burnt mine

Yeah, sounds like a thermal pad. It's not electrically conductive, so no worries about shorting things out. Ideally, the thinner the pad the better, but manufacturing tolerances for the plastic case (and thus the mounting depth, placement, etc. of both the PCA and heatsink) and for the heatsink may require 1-2mm of tolerance to ensure no interference in fit. That and perhaps they did think about the possible physical stress from an impact as I mentioned (maybe, I don't know). Regardless, the thermal pad is better than most electronics where the heatsink just sits atop the PCA with air in between to act as a thermal transfer medium (and radiation is not nearly as effective as conduction through a thermal material). I personally wouldn't worry about the design. Those thermal pads work fine in most environments except in vacuum.

i mean i do know about wat thermal pad or thermal past is. I used to mod heastinks to fit onto CPUs in the past. But isn't 2 mm a bit too much for the heatsink to be away from the heatspreaders?. Btw do open up and ensure that the thermal pad covers all your heatspreaders. There were 2 rows of heatspreaders on my esc that was not in contact with the thermal pad.

Yes. I know what thermal pads are. I'm in electronics manufacturing and have used them in far more applications than most people. Like I said, 2mm isn't ideal...the thinner the better, but there may be manufacturing tolerances and environmental issues that may have been taken into account. A computer is a static device that does not see drastic Gs, especially directly on the unit itself. An ESC is in an environment where it may suffer from direct impact. I'm not saying what HW did is absolutely correct or ideal, but that there are often other factors involved in a design than many people realize. Or it could just be poor design. If you don't like it, don't use it.

Not that i don't like it. Just seeking opinions on it. And 2 mm isn't going to absorb alot of shock.

Thanks for your reply anyway. Maybe my questions are stupid. But thanks.

No stupid questions. We're all trying to learn here and help each other out. Considering the structures are all solid (or semi-solid as the plastic case may have quite a bit of compliance), 2mm is quite a bit for shock. A direct transfer of shock from the heatsink to the PCA is what you want to avoid. The part where you said some of the heatspreaders are not in contact with the thermal pad at all is the worst of your findings. Overall, if it doesn't thermal, I wouldn't worry too much.

i just got my 150a today and installed it the esc is very big my question is the red/black wire that is coming out of the esc is that for the fan and is it necessary to hook up and i'm assuming that would get hooked up to the batt/telem spot on my RX?? i'm running on dirt and at times a dusty track is this a good idea? does it need to be connected the instructions dont even show it??? the rest of the esc i can figure out! thanks in advance for the help!

U can connect the fan there, I use it for the motor fan. But if u got the combo it comes with the huge fan. Fan in offroad is fine just make sure it's secured:)

i have the ESC mounted still waiting on a motor though i also picked up the program card how does it work exactly? don't really want to mess with it to much just want to put power to it set and forget it! thanks!

there's 2 outlet one batt the other is esc. Just connect the -/+ accordingly. That's for u to change the setting for d esc. The default setting seems ok.