Summit brushless?
 

Has anyone converted a summit yet? I was thinking a MMM, KB45 and 4s-6s would be a fun setup. What's your opinion?

Several folks on the Traxxas forums have put in MMM 2200kv combos.

How do you like your summit skellyo? What are your complaints? Is it really worth $500?

I like the dual purpose aspect of it myself. If i went to brushless I would go with a large low kv motor, like the kb 45 10xl (1300kv) on 4s lipo and gear it for around 30mph in 2nd gear. That way low gear would be still slow, and it would have a bunch of torque. And with a slowly spinning motor the effecientcy would be ok, and so would the temps. I would most likely use a MM and an external bec to run all of those servos well...

The most use it gets is pulling my daughter down the hall on one of her toys. I did break a diff output on Sunday, but Traxxas already has one on the way to me as a replacement. They had some problems with that part from their manufacturer, so they're replacing any that break.

I do really like the truck though. At some point I may even take it outside. :lol:

You really need a sensored design if you want to do some crawling(what Summit was designed for).
Though MMM is the smoothest sensorless BL seen, but sensorless nature is right there, it's not possible to be comparable to sensored BLs in starting smoothness and driveability under extremly low speed. Uncountable start-brake-start-brake on the rock will drive you mad without a rotor position sensor.

i really cant imagine my MMM and teckno Neu 1515/1y being any smoother on startups.... i cant point the truck up any hill, stop and start going again with ZERO cogginq what so ever, it just goes, doesn't matter how much throttle i give it. I can crawl on anything i want at slow speeds, and this is in a truck geared for 45 mph...

Maybe the MM Pro would be a good choice then... Paired with something like a Novak HV 6.5. That motor shouldn't have any problems geared for 30mph, and you could still retain all the adjustability of CC ESCs.

this guy did... Mamba Monster in it. Looks pretty bad ass.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmeWhPn2Rb8

I have both MMM and Novak Goat, with the sensored goat you can make your truck push agaist you leg at zero speed, wheel doesn't spin, but you can feel the static force, this is not possible with the MMM.

Also, under REAL crawling condition (not speed climbing), the truck often need to hold on a steep slope, no slide, no move, 0 mph or maybe 0.1mph, this is never possible with a sensorless design.

MMM is great for speed but might not be the best choice for crawlers.

If you want to crawl, a Slovak is still going to be the best. MMMs are smooth but still not quite as capable at crawling as a sensored system.

If I had a Summit, I'd love to stick a big ol' outrunner in there...but on the other hand, I guess it'd be susceptible to mud and water then. It's a great idea for a truck though; so many options...

Hi guys.Aint been on for a while.I've got a MMM 2200kv on 4S 40C lipos :) Mad as a box of frogs.it does cog a little but it's tough as hell (am I allowed to say that on here?) I've only broken 2 A arms(,40 mph + tree = breakages in anyones book) and the obvious bumper mounts,but rpm make them :) .It handles soooo much better than the maxx 3.3,tougher too.My rear diff fell apart recently,screws were loose,didn't wreck it though :)

Him guys. I'm stripping the diff out of the Maxx tonight.I went out with a mate who's got a hpi mt2.The rear diff fuggered up again in the MMM'd summit.Oh well,gives me something to do :)

I know that the 1520 is too long, hits the shock, not sure about the 1518. Looks like a fun truck, friend of mine got one. I guess there are alot of electronics involved, lights servo's. He's using a BEC, probably a good idea.

Hi,I shimmed the diffs in the MMM'd summit.It's wheelying again. :)

Hi,I've pulled the diff out of my 3.3 maxx to replace the knackered rear diff in the MMM'd summit.I forgot how gross the nitro truck was ;)

IMHO I would do the Dewalt conversion on the summit, it would still be waterproof that way.

I have the Dewalt conversion in my Summit. Works well, with an 18t pinion the 14.4V motor gets it to 25-30mph. On 4s Lipo it gets around 15-20 mins, ESC comes off around 120 and Motor at 140-150ish. For Wet weather I just run twin 7 Cell Nimh packs and keep it in low gear for water runs etc.

ya IMO the summit does not need brushless. its not made to go fast or handle well. The dewalt motor has tons of torque and is fully rebiuldable and is just exponentially better than the stock motor.

Look at the Tekin RX8 system. Works really great in the Summit.

When you start going brushless on the Summit, then other parts become factors, shift servos, diffs, and the stock Tyres have enough trouble at 30mph, with Brushless power they won't be at all happy.

There is a lot of parts the same between the brushless Erevo and Summit. Naturally there are parts need to go to the Erevo side, Traxxas recommends the Summit axles in the Revo as a HD upgrade. Diff's the same except the two speed shifting parts. Summit is a great platform. When one has outgrown it, you can slip in a supercharged motor, brushless, change tires, install P2 rockers and have an incredible fun car. Still have the lockers for when one gets stuck. Then there are those with the Erevo who want to go to the Summit side. That is not as easy. The Summit gives a user a lot for his money.

My Summit I converted from an E-Revo, cost a lot more than you initial expect, upwards of $300-$350 USD, but the build is half the fun.

Hi.The diff lockers aint a problem with a MMM'd summit,I'm not sure if the diff case has stretched out of shape though.Could do with an alu one ;).I beat the crap out of mine,the only stock stuff I've broken in over a year is 2 A arms and the rear diff.It's tougher than my 3.3 maxx.The drive shafts fall apart,but thats fixed with heat shrink and super glue.I use the diff locks to get the truck out of awkward situations,rather than walking over ,like with a normal truck. I use it for "freeride" like MTB's.I used to ride MTB's but my backs shot :( .Big drops,big hop up jumps,.Great truck !!!

Hi.I fitted the maxx diff in the summit(well most of it) .It didn't last a set of lipos :( .I spent an hour trying to find a complete diff in the UK,An hour I won't get back :( .I found one in the US for £14.98 plus shipping :) It's less than £18,so customs can't sit on it for months ;)

Another diff?
 

Hi guys. I've hardened the spider gears in the rear diff.Got 'em yellow hot with a blow torch then quenched 'em in ice.:intello:.They lasted a set of lipos :no:.I've got a new diff from the US. £15 instead of £69 in the UK.The british government really do take the pi** when it comes to tax:lol:.It'll be going in the truck tonight,I'll have to loosen the slipper,sacrificing wheelies for tranny longevity (tranny means something else too in the UK :lol:) I'm getting a heatsink and programme card for the MMM soon.It should be in the US postal system right now:yes: just a couple of weeks to wait. I'll try the 22/58 gear ratio if the heatsink works well enough.STUPID fast :yipi:

Hi guys.The stuff I ordered hasn't turned up yet :( . I've had to sacrifice wheelies for tranny longevity,fed up with stripping the rear diff every set of lipos.But hey,it's still fast and tough :)

Hi.I've moved from trashing rear diffs to drive shafts. Cheaper though :)

Hi.My stuff finally arrived from powerhobby :).I'll be fitting the blower in a bit,then hopefully taking it for a blast with reverse(The field card that turned up friday should give me reverse) and a bigger pinion.I'm running 17/68 at the mo,may go for 22/58 for a few speed runs/massive jumps. :)

Hi.I shredded the esc to rx wires(they got under the spur guard during a field repair) .I resoldered 'em,now I've got reverse.Typical,I just bought a field card so I could get reverse without using the wrong castle programme and frying the esc.Oh well,I've got reverse :)

Hi.I've fitted a wheelie bar & alloy slipper clutch :) Wheelying accross the carpark.Gotta take it out for a beating tommorrow :)

Hi.Broke the wheelie bar :( .I keep knackering driveshafts.But, I took the pin out of the shaft,put the bit that goes in the wheel into a drill,pushed it into the shaft a little deeper,dremelled the plastic off where the pin was.I moved the pin hole inwards 1/8th og an inch.Hopefully it'll work :)

It works a treat :)

Pictures?

Hi.the previous mod kind of worked.BUT,I've come up with another that stops the crosspins moving & splitting the plastic bit.I got some appropriate sized rod/pin,Drilled 1/16th of an inch into each end,put it in place ,then peened the ends out :) I beat the crap out of the truck a couple of days back with NO driveshaft failures