Just got a brushless edition Revo!
 

This is my first large brushless truck. I have a small 18th scale rc10 thats brushless and a Emaxx with stock titans. Anyhow, I ran the revo for the first time today on 4s. :gasp:WOW! this is totally cool. I was blown away at the power and speed. I can't imagine it on 6s....or beyond like some of you run. I can't stop grinning. I have been running a Emaxx on 4s with the stock titans, so you can imagine the difference. I plan to go 6s, I can get good deals on Thunder Power.

This thing came with a long travel suspension kit. For bashing I would think this would be good to add, no? I didn't care to much for the stock settings, tons of body roll and in general to soft for my taste. It also came with a different spur, which is the better choice for bashing?

Thanks, Joel

you will want 2 3s packs... p2's work great - stiffer oil, springs and the tekno roll bar kit will stop the roll

Joel...congrads on your first BL truck...it is truly amazing the difference in power / speed vs. non BL trucks

I recomend sticking with 4s. Maybe gear up a bit if your batteries can handle the increased amp draw. 6s will be incrediblly insane and as far as I'm concerened undriveable.

Go with 5s, 2 packs in parallel. FWIW Mike has some great 5s 2500mah 25c packs for sale.

I can see what you mean. The 4s is pretty impressive and that is with MA packs:no: I thought they were decent, but the more I read it appears that compared to others they don't perform that great. I would love to see it on 6s, can this thing really handle that power?

On another note is there any other "general" recommendations that should be noted on the truck in stock form? That is, what should I change? I don't want to go crazy modding it, I just want to keep it solid and reliable......as long as it's being drove in a responsible manner:whistle:

I second these, they perform very well and i find 5s to be awsome for bashing on the Neu 1515/1y.

I was under the impression that anything over 3s would not fit in the battery compartments? I'll do some measuring. In the mean time how would I wire the packs to make them in parallel and not 10s:surprised: Sorry, I used to know this stuff a little but I have forgot most of it.

For parallel wiring connect both pos leads to each other and the same with the neg leads. That will double your mah and keep the voltage the same. Series wiring is the oposite, where you connect the pos of one pack to the neg of another. That doubles the voltage, and the mah stays the same.

I will also suggest 5s for that truck, and the swaybar kit. Sounds like you could go up one color on the springs too, as they sound a bit soft.

Shizzon - how are you fitting 5S on your E-Revo?

Shizzon is running mike's 2500mah 5s packs in parallel. He may have other batteries as well but I know he's using those.

Even so, arent those still too big for the compartments?

Check the specs! 138mm x 43mm x 29mm, the E-Revo compartment will fit 160x51x30

how do the drivetrain/diffs hold up on 6s with the brushlesss edition? Did traxxas make any changes to the burhsless edition? or did the drivetrain/diffs remain the same as the non-brushless edition?

They are the same as the ERevo.

Thats sad to hear. The drivetrain needs to be upgraded. Heck look at the savage flux its all metal to handle the power of the mmm combo. Plastic just doesnt cut it.

So I have to respectfully disagree with that statement (I know the troubles a few of you have had). I've had great success with the stock plastic shafts, on 5S and 6S, whereas I bent two sets of MIP's and some other brand (bought used, no idea for certain which they were).

Got to agree with JThiessen on this.

I have been running both the 3905 maxx setup and erevo setup with 6s on the MMM for almost a year now with no diff or any other drive train problems.

I will also agree with JT I have a 10s/ 1515/2y revo and never any probs myself...I am thinking its your running style, I am guessing a lot of WOT from a standstill and attempted standing backflips.....

I am geared for only 38mph and my truck has the punch control set at 70% and the slipper is set not to allow a wheely. I still can rip apart a plastic driveshaft. I broke 3 in one battery on the track. There are 2 other e-revo owners here and they have had driveshaft issues too. My lhs also tells people the first upgrade should be a set of cvds.

Now I had an lst2 with a 5s lipo geard for 48mph with a almost locked slipper(it could do a standing backflip with out issues) and NEVER had drivetrain issues. It was rock solid!!! The cvds are still one the truck 3 years later and the diffs have been in there for over a year! I beat that truck with jumps over my house to 100ft drops of the sand dunes!! Never had issue. I cant do that with the stock e-revo driveshafts or diffs. They just dont hold up.

I have to disagree as well, I have a 3.5 yr old revo Gmaxx conversion, the revo parts are near 4 yrs old, i broke a driveshaft on a 6s run recently. That"s nearly 4 yrs of hard running and abuse, from an HV4400 to the current Neu/quark/5s setup (6s was just for giggles and to see if the quark would survive). It took 6s lipo's to break the 4 yr old shaft. I plan to replace the driveshafts and expect 4 yrs of service from them again. Oh, these were the driveshafts, that were used, when I broke the pinion on my hybrid diff (V.1), Of which only two have ever broke on the V.1's (Mine was the first)

Well comeing from a lst2 and knowing what kind of abuse it could take, then going to the e-revo. It was a night and day durabilaty difference. I have had the diff cups blow up and the driveshafts snap. When racing it sucks to have a driveshaft go 5 mins into the race. It happened to many times. I dont know what you all are doing different than the guy around here(including me) but we all cant seem to get them to hold up for very long. Heck I wish they would b/c it would have saved my a ton of money($65 for the vanatage racing which died after 4 runs and $130 for the mips)

Edit: dont get me wrong I love my e-revo! It handles great and jumps very flat. That why I still have it. I friend of mine is getting one next month b/c of how nice my truck runs. He owns a savageX now and is going electric with the BE e-revo! (all he had to do was drive mine once and he was sold!!!)

6S vs 4S
 

At first i thought 6S was going to be undriveable but at least in the case of the MMM and 2200 combo use of punch control makes it very drivable. the major benefit are temps, run times and current. I find the temps are 30-40 lower, run times with 5000 batts are at least 10 mins longer (2S 5000 25C vs 3S 5000 25C batts) and of course current draw is 20-40% less.

I have a friend who just bought one of these, I raced him on 2 2s 5000mah packs and it could not pass my vxl slash running a 2s 4500. Now he wants to gear it for top speed so he can beat me, any suggestions on gearing? He is running bone stock and agrees that it has all torque and little top speed.

What's stock on the BL Erevo- 18/68? He could try 20/68, or 22/68 even- all depends if the batteries can keep up with the current draw, same too with the MMM (that shouldnt overheat easily though).

Im running 20/58 and dont get over 130°. Thats about 40mph. If his batteries are up to the task 22/58 will rock.

It looks like I just puffed my first lipo. I am using (2) maxamps 2s 6000mah(these are the 2s2p) I have ran them w/o issues in my emaxx for probably 25 cycles. I have not had issues up till now in the BE e-revo. I ran the pack for aprox 20 minutes, then switched the stock wheels/tires for some proline offset dish wheels with proline badlands on them. I finished out the packs on them, but I did run till it was obvious that the packs were spent. When I pulled the packs to charge one was fine and the other was puffed. It seems that one side draws more than the other, as with my emaxx I assume that one side is powering the servos solely?

I have always balanced these packs while charging since new. Upon discovering the puffed condition I put my balancer on to see what was going on. It appeared that this pack had become severely out of balance. (I use astro blinkey balancers.) I guess I'm puzzled as to what caused this condition. I have the esc set for auto lipo. The packs probably have 30 cycles on them.

1. ran the packs down to far?
2. the change of wheels had an effect?(the prolines have an overall smaller circumference)
3. maxamps packs suck?(:whistle:)
4. It just happens?

I was told over the phone by maxamps that the 6ks were not ment for a mt. Only the 8ks were. Sorry to hear about your loss. Maxamps took care of me when I had issues with my 6ks . They have great CS

18/65.....and for some reason a 54t spur comes in the box:neutral:

Anyone using these center shafts? Recommend? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWJY9&P=Z

Those are interesting, I always figured integy as a knock off artist. However, i don't trust the material to last

you don't trust the stock or the integy material to last?

integy FTL!!! The only thing they have that lasts are the allen drivers I have two sets and swear by them.

wait for someone else to buy these - use stock instead
 

Id wait for someone else to buy integy. to date i have had bad results with anything (except the hex drivers) integy. the stock shafts from traxxas are very good actually especially if you have your slipper set up properly.

I have an update on the puffed lipo. After I let it balance itself I charged it and it appears to be ok. The swelling went down pretty quick and it took a full charge. I talked to maxamps today about the issue and got some good feedback. They said if I can't get this one to come back they would give me a discount on some new packs. I'm happy with the offer, however I think the pack will be ok and unless the discount is steep I'll prolly pass. I just got done running the truck. I did 10 minutes of hard running and took batt temps. 107 degrees. Did another 10 minutes and hit 118 degrees. I'm running the stock gearing of 18/65. The motor was very similar temps to the batts. I did change the voltage cutoff from the autolipo to custom of 12.5. Maxamps was saying that the auto will let them go down to far, which may be what happened.

On another note I made some changes to the truck. I changed to firmer springs front and rear. I opted for the highest ride height. I changed out the 40wt oil for 50wt. I dropped the center roll to the lower position. With the offset wheels +.5" prolines it now handles really well and does not have body roll and stays on its wheels much better. I pulled the stock slider shafts and dropped in the traxxas cvd's. This thing is so much fun, I still cant believe how much power this thing has and that it can handle it. I'll post some pics soon.:mdr:

If a pack puffs, its done for usually- it'll puff each time you use it in the same application given the same stress/load.

As for the nice offer of a discount- if they werent junk lipos to start with, they would never have puffed; they should replace like for like, not offer a discount on new ones.

Auto lipo isnt to blame- you should be able to discharge them down to ~2.5-2.7v without damaging them- auto lipo is 3.0v per cell; trouble with maxcrap lipos is that they just dont like outputting so much current so will over heat and puff, long before lvc is hit (otherwise it would have kicked in to stop tyhem from overdischarging to too low of a voltage).

Same here, I don't leave home without mine

Integy, the only thing i have of theirs is their drivers. heard enough horror stories about their parts to steer clear for a long time. They had a copy of the type 3 (I think, but no longer produced) UE suspension, that a friend (coolhand_country here) had and swore by

i trust integy products that are not "there alloy" so like a steel roll cage i would trust or them hex drivers

My luck hasn't been great with the integy hex drivers. Most are OK, but I got into an argument with the LHS guy saying that a screw wasn't 1.5mm because my driver didn't even come close to fitting. He broke out a MIP machined 1.5mm driver and it worked like a charm. Sadly, I think I'll be replacing the integy set over time. YMMV