brushless revo conversion!!
 

heres my brushless revo so far

parts

• mmm 2200kv combo
• 5s zippy lipo-dont have yet
• rcm motor mount
• traxxas sway bars
• center diff
• locked tranny in 2nd
• tekno rc battery tray

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...version013.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...version015.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...version016.jpg

heres a little esc mount i made out of some plastic

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...version011.jpg

i might order the 5s zippy tonight and i will probably get a hyperion charger.

its going to be fast.......especially if you have the wide ratio gears in the tranny

Cool..I am in the process of converting my 3.3 Revo to BL as we speek

Looking good glad you got that mount figured... How is the rear arm clearance?

It has great clearance and I also have the extended rear arms on it

Damn that's nice!! I'm also in the process of one! Just need the MMM setup, and a reliable 2.4 Radio...that's gonna be a lotta money, but I work!!

My revo conversion is just laying in the corner not being used because I drive the ST RR more often :lol::intello:

Nice build.

Is the kyosho a lot more fun or what George?

I am in the samre boat as George, ever since I built my Losi 8T my Revo hasnt seen any run time its presently a roller

today i ran it on a 2s lipo that i had sitting around and it ran good except for shredding my spur and the 5s zippy is on back order so i might go with a 4s zippy. will it go around 40mph with a 4s zippy?

There's no comparison. The Kyosho is so easy to drive and more durable which equates to more fun :lol::intello::intello::party:.

If it's a True 4S, I would say 40 is very possible with the right gearing. I ran 27mph towards end of my small 2250 3s and cheapo Feigao 8 2383kv motor, car weight 8bs
What is the quality of a Zippy ?
at that price I doubt the cells are of good quality, matched well, wont last as long as others.
Thunder power is the way to go :yes:

maybe i'll sell my super crawler for like $400 and buy a good battary and charger with that money. and most of the people that have been using zippys on other forums really like them

will this battery work good? http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...c5s5000carpack

Yes it will...they are good packs

ok i think thats the one im getting when they are back in stock

look waht i got at the hobby shop today!!!!!:yipi:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...version017.jpg

the guys at the hobby shop gave me $20 off of the battery.

more pics. video coming soon when the weather gets better

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...version018.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...version019.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...version020.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...version021.jpg

and do i set the cutoff voltage to 15 for a 5s lipo??

I'd go for 3.2v per cell to be on the safe side, 16v total.

so i set the cutoff voltage to 16?

heres a short video. i cant believe how much power it has andd it wheelies even with the center diff in it. i got some q's about charging my battery. when i plugged the battery in i set the charger to 5s lipo and 4900mah is there anything else i need to set? and when i started charging it,on the bottom right hand side it said that the battery was at like 19 volts. so should i just not charge it since its only supposed to be at 18.5 volts? and how does the charger know when to stop charging?

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...version023.jpg

Sounds like you have it set correctly.

Are you using the built in balancer while charging? I just ask as you need the correct adapter board to charge a fp lipo as it has a thunderpower style balancing tap.

18.5v is the nominal voltage. 21v is the total voltage that it should charge up to on the charger.

when you get tired of the wheelies you can gear up to get rid of them...have you removed 1st gear from the tranny and do the "lock in 2nd gear" mod

yes i have a flight power balancer adapter thingy and i was using it and i will let it charge up to 21v. i love this charger by the way!!!!

i already removed 1st gear and locked it in 2nd

i just ran it outside and the front wheels baloon sooooooooooo much its almost undriveable. is there anyway to fix this? like putting heavier weight oil in the center diff or something? i am gona gear down a little and i stripped my spur gear again i think i might get a metal or aluminum spur. is that a good idea?

you want to gear up. Gearing down increases your torque....you already have too much..taping the inside of the tires will also help

ok then ill gear up. ill just get a smaller spur. what do you mean taping the inside of the tires? is there a thread on this? what kind of tape do i use? and what about oil in the center diff, do i want thinner or thicker oil?

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lan...ping-tires.asp


Here you go!

Thicker oil in the CD will help the front tire ballooning. Not sure what weight to use though, I have never run a CD in a revo.

thanks guys. im goin to the hobby shop tomorrow to get a new spur maybe a steel one and some new oil for the CD then i am goin to take it to the track the next day.

You'll probably need some 300k or so in the center diff. If thats not enough, about the only thing thicker is 500k and that might be to much. Also, to keep the front from unloading, you can go thicker in the front as well. That should help a little.

so are you saying to put thicker oil in the front diff? and will this setup eliminate crazy wheelies? im ok with a small wheelie as long as it does not hit the wing and the front goes down after you accelerate

you will need it in the CD, I tried 500k in a Traxxas CD in a converted Revo and it didnt do much...the TRX CD is crap IMO

is there a way to just make the wheelies go away without the front tires ballooning too much? its ok if they balloon a little

What do you have in it?

I'm having similar problem with wheelies. Here are some things to try:

1) Thicker shock oil in the rear shocks
2) Stronger springs in the rear shocks
3) Wheelie bar (I have one on mine)
4) More spring preload on rear shocks
5) Shift batteries toward the front of the car
6) Add artificial weight to the front to keep it down.

As for the balooning...I have that problem also...tires come unglued several times during speed runs between 45 and 57.1Mph.
1) Try a different tire...low profile preferred
2) A street tire may work better than dirt tire
3) I've considered trying to drive with these on the car:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNRE7&P=7
but I've never tried it.

OldSoldier

im not sure if your asking what gearing i have in it or what battery and motor i have in it so ill tell you both. i have a 17 tooth pinion and 38 tooth spur. i have a 5s lipo and the 2200kv castle motor with the mmm. im definitely not getting a wheelie bar because i am going to race it a lot

Need to know what weight fluids you have. Like I said though, adding thicker fluid in the front might tame down the front diff unloading, but it won't do anything for the wheelies, and you might also need to go higher in the center diff, but that will make wheelies even more of a problem. If you can, get one of the custom made center diffs that a guy use to sell on Ebay (I think it was cowboy??). There a great center diff since there 6 spyder and not 4 like the Traxxas. That will allow you to use thinner fluids since 500k is about as thick as you can get and isn't always thick enough for the Traxxas CD. I'd try and go thicker in the front first though. That won't keep it from unloading while in a straight line, but more so if your going into a turn and the inside front wheel is the one unloading.

well i have the stock oil in the front and rear diffs never changed it since i got it and i have whatever weight oil that comes with the CD i think its like 100k

Go heavier in the front first, then try 300k or so in the center, but taping the tires helps more than almost anything.

either tape the inside of the tires with duct tape or use a low profile truggy tire both of these methods keep the tire from expanding