information on kb45 motors?
 

i can't seem to find the maker of this motor or any of its specs. i have a kb45-8xl motor that i bought used and would like some info.

on a side note: how can you tell ho many poles a motor has? for example, i know feigaos are 2-pole while cc/neu and medusas are 4-pole

Ta-da:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...hless_Inrunner

If you plumb 'kb45' into the search feature, it yields a few useful results, such as people who've used the motor in various setups and such.

Cant remember if its 2 pole or 4 pole off by heart, think its 4 since reports say it produces butt-loads of torque, but is prone to running warm/hot.

2 pole motor, internals are identical design to a hacker/feigao... The rotor is larger in diamter, and these motors are very powerful. I have only run the L cans so far, and they performed as well as an XL feigao with more torque and less heat. Not as efficient as a neu, but for around 60 bucks they are great motors.

The 6mm shaft and 30mm bolt spacing with m4 thread will deter most, but I have had the shafts turned down, and found 6mm bore pinions too. I made my own motor mounts as well. These are great motors, but will most likely have some issues as the cq is not as good as a high end motor. Buy 2 and you will most likely end up with at least 1 good motor...

The same 35k rpm max rule as the feigao have applies here too. Considering the sixe I would try to keep the rpm around 30k max. That should cure any magnet glue or material failures. Plus at that rpm they will run cooler. I never got my 8L and 10L over 150 in the gtp, and it was geared for 50+.

I plan to run a 8xl on 6s lipo in my 7th scale car with a 2 speed. Gearing it for 90 in 2nd. I think it will pull the load just fine, hopefully the MMM can keep up.

sounds like a good test for the kb45 linc

Should be... I need to get the 2nd speed spur situation sorted, and have a mount made to my spec for the motor... We will just have to see how it does. I may even make the mount myself...

I've only ran my 8xl kb45 for one 3s pack in a heavy e-maxx and it was way more powerful than a novak hv6.5 in a stock e-maxx. Then my endbell fell off. (No loctite Linc?:slap:) I'm very impressed initially and will soon be running 6s.

Never had the endbell come off either of the 2 I ran. I guess you just bought a bad KB, I would not do that again if I were you. I always buy the good KB motors, cures problems that way.

i bow to you sensai:tongue:

i am using the kb10l motor in my 13.5 lb 2wd vehicle on6s2p a123 ad i am happy with it. A LOT more powerful than my the wanderer 9xl I was running this vehicle with before.

so, if the l-can motors are more powerful than the fiegaos, my 8xl 1600kv on 6s lipo is going to be complete overkill in a savage x 4.6. :yipi:

maybe, i'll buy the 1400kv L-length motor if the xl destroys my drivetrain.

Dan@kershawdesigns told me that the KB45-8xl motor is about %40 more powerful than the cc/neu motors. if the flux can do standing backflips, what will i be able to do?:intello:

i'm going to lock my tranny into 1st gear by tightening the set screw in the tranny all the way. i ordered 5000mah 25c zippy 3s lipos and i'm hoping they are enough to power the motor. i will run 18/47, so i think it will be geared a little low and it shouldn't draw too many amps. if i want more speed, i could always use a bigger pinion.

also, i don't have to worry about qc issues as i bought my motor used. the shaft is already ground down to 5mm and i have a custom motor mount on the way from Dan so all i need now to mount it is the 4mm screws. any suggestions? hobbycity has them, but i'm not taking any chances. the one person who reviewed them said the heads break off easily.:whip:

i use the kb458l in my lst2 conversion on 6s pushes the truck real nice and has alot of torque plenty to flip it on its lid with no problems.

you used the 8l on 6s? thats 51k rpm. that seems way too high for a cheap motor. do you have any overheating problems?

no probs sofar

If you want to lock the savvy tranny in 1st just get p/n 100905... It is the flux center shaft and gear. All you need to lock it and the gear is metal too.

wouldn't tightening the set screw all the way be sufficient for locking it in first?

Dan @ kershaw says a lot of things, which ones are true is another question.

You are not eliminating the function of the one way bearing that 1st gear rides on. Adjusting the set screw adjustment for second gear will only prevent it from shifting into 2nd gear. You need to have the 1st gear spur physically attached to the center shaft to lock the tranny. This will allow motor brakes and reverse.

To physically see this at work hold the spur gear with you had and try to roll the truck forwards, it should not move. Now try to roll it backwards, the one way bearing will allow it to roll backwards by releasing the 1st gear spur from the center shaft.

hpi p/n 100905 is the best and cheapest way to lock a savage into 1st. You will have to fool with the 2nd gear spur if you want it locked into 2nd though, no drop in parts for that yet... I bet that we could nig something up though...

Keep in mind when using that part the drive gears will wear out every 25-30 packs. Also it's not the easiest part to locate at the moment

The full steel tranny wears out quickly? Sounds like some of that oil modifier would be good for that tranny. I may have to try that.

is there any way to prevent it from shifting into 2nd gear while at the same time, getting rid of the owb? or at least locking the owb?

Already been explained in post #17- you need to buy some parts, or bolt the gear to the hub, a la revo 2nd gear mod I imagine...

Will a KB45L 2300KV motor overheat on 4S lipo in a 4.3Kg e-savage? Assume that it is geared for slightly over 40mph (around 25T)

I have one new kb45 motor but I am not sure if I should just get a HW150A for use with it or should I get a MMM/CC Neu combo.

It should be alright, but watch temps closely. I'd get the MMM to run the kb, and upgrade to a cc neu if the kb fails.

Some pictures of my KB45 L can 2300KV

The rotor looks pretty well made.

The shaft has been ground down to 5mm.

how did you grind down the shaft?

Ran the motor while filing it.

did you grind a flat spot on the shaft?

Not yet.

Did you simply unscrew the front endbell?

How tough was that?

you just put 2 screw through it and use a channel lock to turn it....

I have to say, the best Cheap motor would be the KB45XL motors... I really did enjoy bashing those motors.. And they are POWERFUL.. efficient..?. that's another thing...

I think Maytech makes the KB line of motors... From my testing, they seem to like 25K rpms...

my KB45-8XL separated the rotor from the shaft, so i ground down the shaft on my KB45-12L 1400kv motor and threw it on my savage. the run lasted about 6 inches as my EZrun 150a smoked itself....the only setting i changed on it was turning the LVC off. i was using a lipo monitor that plugged into the balance lead on the lipos, because the stock setting of 3.0v was too low. i had done it manually as i didn't have the program card at that point and i might have messed something up in the programming in the process of turning the lvc off.

BTW: i was running 2 3s packs in series.

Will be testing the KB45-08XL in a converted savage soonish... on 6 cells of course. 35k rpm sounds pretty reasonable.

I smoked mine in 5 minutes on 6s in an e-maxx. agwut has a lot more experience than anyone with kb45's and he recommends 25k rpm.

Whatever you do, keep watching the temperature.

yeah, I know for a fact..
the 1700KV one runs awesome on 4S..
the 1000KV one runs awesome on 6S...
and the 700KV one runs awesome on 8S...

So they're are all about 20-25K range...
You could run them all day long with a heatsink and/or fan...

The ones that died on me where running about 40-45K rpms.. They don't seem to mind the amp draw, they just don't like the RPMS...

My favourite is the 1000KV, insane for showing off on 8S.. 700KV same thing on 12S...

I would use the 1000KV for 6S and just gear it higher...

i think the 1200kv would be better for 6s. that's less than 30k rpm. my 8xl (1600kv) ran 140-150F whenever i ran it with 85F ambient. that was with a stretched traxxas heatsink and the kershaw motor mount. that was on 6s with a $27 plane speed control. the hottest i temped it at was 160F after a 10 min. run with the gear mesh WAY too tight due to the motor mount shifting. it ran around 145F most of the time during my street bashing.

Awesome.. glad it worked for ya.....:great:

yeah, until the rotor separated from the shaft. that happened one run after i put loctite on the endbell threads, so now i can't get it open.:whistle:

i can't say anything about the 1400kv L length motor yet, but i hope it works well once i get my EZrun back from nitrorcx.com..:whip:

At the moment my savage is powered by a Hobbywing 4465... its way too powerfull for the truck.

Was hoping the KB45-08XL would be easier to controll. However, when I read Scarlets conversion thread it seems like its just as impossible as the 4465 :)

If 25K rpm is the limit for the KB's then the 10XL sounds just about right - 26.600 on 6 cells.

Will a lower KV motor be easier to controll (wheelie/backflip wise) or will the increased torque mean that it wheelies more. I mean if I geared for about 45mph will a 1200KV motor then be easier to handle than a 2000KV? And why?

25K is not the limit, I have ran the 1700KV motor on 8S, and it was insanely fast... I recommend somewhere around the 25K mark.

Example, 1200 KV and 2000 KV motors of the same size.. Powering a Monster Truck...

They both have the same power output.. with the lower KV you have to gear higher and use more voltage, and with the higher KV you'd have to gear lower and use less voltage.

I prefer to use lower KV and higher voltage & less RPMS.. but there is a limit..

Lower KV motors can't take as much amps as the higher KV.. the Lower KV relies more on Voltage.. whereas the Higher KV motors relies on Current. know what I mean?