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My thoughts on the SC10 kit...
So I decided to put the sc10 together this evening. Got the chassis completely assembled save for the shocks.
I have not assembled a 10th scale kit for a while, last thing comparable to this was a losi xxx-cr 10th buggy about 2 years ago. The losi kit was better designed and materials are better than this, I am a bit disapointed in that too. I am pretty disappointed in this kit. The instructions for assembly are decent, but they overlook some pretty obvious stuff, and some of the build methods are questionable and could only be correctly carried out by a very experienced rc nut. First up was the servo saver. It is integrated into one of the bellcranks. The collared nut that holds the spring and half of the saver has a very coarse thread that self-threads into the plastic half of the saver. 2 small (very small) oillite bushings go in each end and a mainly smooth shafted screw acts as the pivot. The instructions call for assembling the collared nit and then placing the bushings and screw in. I did that and ended up with the collared nut not going into the saver half straight. This the screw and bushings were super tight when installed. I had to put the entire assembly together and then loosed the collared nut and force everything to sit straight under pressure by the spring as I reinstalled the collared nut. Someone with less manual dexterity and hand strength would be screwed here... Then I tried to install the front bulk to the chassis. Well the steering draglink was hanging up pretty hard where it passes thru the bulk. After taking it apart an few times, I could see the the downward pointing head of the above mentioned screw that holds the servo saver together was contacting the chassis and was being pushed forward causing the draglink to contact the inside of the bulkhead. I tried to tighten up the screw, but that only caused the steering to have heavy drag (the manual states to not tighten the two bellcranks screws too much or binding will occur, at least they got that right...). So I ended up taking the dremel to the chassis (brand new chassis!) to create some clearance for the screw head. Still had to take the bulk/steering assy and hold the servo saver backwards under alot of pressure while screwing in the long screw. Problem solved, no contact and the draglink cleared nicely... This took about 1 hr total, and I was still on the 1st page of the build manual... Not a happy pimp, I can tell you. Most of the rest of the build went quickly (it is a 10th scale 2wd for pete's sake!). I will say that the diff is very nice, fully sealed with 2 (yes 2!) orings on each output cup, and the internal bevel gears are very nicely made. I put some 5k diff fluid in (the instructions make no mention at all that you can do this, they just suggest grease...) and the diff felt like it was already broken in, super smooth. The idler is plastic (booo) so I will limit power to a novak 540 style motor and 2s lipo (what it was designed for, I am sure). So I get to the rear camber links, and the instructions tell me to make them 71mm long from the centers of the ball cups. The tierod in the label package was well over 71mm, and with the cups fully screwed on around 85-87mm center to center. I set the truck on the table and eyeball the necessary distance with a ruler. 86mm looks about right so I guess I had the correct part, and that the instructions were wrong again... Overall not too pleased, and I am sure a novice to the hobby, or a younger hobbyist would have serious problems (especially with a steering setup that binded that bad). The manual is nicely laid out, but does not have full sized hardware images to reference next to the various steps. All items were correctly bagged, and I usually only had to open 2 bags at a time. No spares to speak of (booo), especially the tiny setscrews for the hingepins and the few e-clips... I have not built the shocks yet (an hour of head scratching/hand fitting killed my timetable), and they better go together well:diablo: I have built about 25 kits, mostly tamiya, and would rate this as a 5, and the second worst save for the kyosho 1/8 motorcycle (crap). I have never had to hand fit a tamiya, even the 1/32 aa power micro juggernaut I paid 10 bucks for. Its a decent deal for 160 or so bucks, but you will need to play with it to get it to work right... I will get some pics up in a day or so when I get the shocks built and the body painted. |
its a good thing they're releasing a RTR then... LOL...
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well linc i hope it is alot more fun to drive than it was to build
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Also forgot to mention that while they provide o rings to go in the drive cup and tranny output there is still alot of slack in the dogbones... As it is a kit it should have universals, but I will add another o ring to the tranny side and see if that helps, there is enough slack for the o rings to fall out now... These are oversights that just scream that assc were rushing this to the market. I will say the box it cam in is very nicely made, thick cardboard and loely shiny color graphics on it, almost photo quality... I of course would prefer a sh**y box with some decent instructions and some "hopups", or even a few spare screws... |
OK I really enjoyed the build, I have had much trickier more R/C nut oriented kits. Here's mine built with GTB, Losi 8.5, Nomadio transceiver, RPM GT2 front arms&bulk, GPM knuckles, T4 FT Ti Tie rods, Futaba S9402, sway bar kit, steering bearings and plenty of LiPos to keep it going..
..it is nice and dirty now and even has a crack in the shell so looks like it's had some fun. The crack could have been avoided by mounting the rear of the body a hole higher to help clear the rear bumper, never mind (note to others-rear of body top holes). Again, I'm really impressed with the packaging and assembly process, I went pretty hard to try and get this truck dialed spot on from the beginning so took my time. Having previously owned 4 B4s (incl 2 FTs) and an FT T4 I noticed that some of the common parts between these three cars had been beefed up for the SC10, most notably the steering knuckles, unfortunately I am such a tosser I fitted some GPM alloy / Ti knuckles I already had. My main peeve is the tyres; all 4 have the same tread pattern i.e. they are not evenly matched as the chevrons oppose each other when reversed. You can only mount these tyres one way as each bead is a different size (as per Slash). I also fitted alloy top caps to the shocks (found them in my TC4 goodies box), 50k wt oil to the diff (only had 2k, 50k, and 120k to choose from) and steering bearings from a new set I had for my B4, oh yeah had a sway bar kit in the box as well so fitted that with the medium bar. I used some new Core 5000mAh LiPos, the truck was far too fast for the 1/10 track at Keilor although I was still getting runtimes well in excess of 30 min :eek: I will be changing the motor to the Losi 13.5 before the next run. Without further ado, some pictures... http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/IMG_0897.jpg http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/IMG_0924.jpg Beside other 1/10 scales: http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/IMG_0941.jpg Beside 1/8 scales: http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/IMG_0944.jpg I know someone that now has both SC8 and SC10, they use same body and have same tyre size! Back to my new toy.. It handles in a very similar manner to the T4 (no surprise I know). I had my T4 setup with 7.5 Novak and from memory the Losi 8.5 plus the extra length / weight of the SC10 seem to balance out to the same thing - although the SC10 pops more high speed wheelies along the straight. Obviously traction is very different although again to be expected. The stock rubber does work very well on track though (although the track could have done with a going over with the leaf blower). At the risk of sounding cocky; I did not expect any breakages although did have bigger stacks than I was expecting. This is one tough truck. Of course I arranged for my mate Pedro to come along with his near new (totally stock) Slash, not really a great match except for in looks and size. Pedro was also running LiPos but seriously; the stock Slash motor is 12T, what does that mean-12 tonne?? We did swap cars after a while and decided it was the Slash (not Pedro's driving) that meant you had to keep turning the downside up Traxxas back onto its wheels. Putting the SC10 in the same class with the Slash would be as per matching Rustler with T4 or Bandit with B4 - go figure. Next time Pedro and I play 1/10 CORR we will both be running B/L 13.5s which should be a bit more fun. More pics... RPM arms, GPM knuckles, Ti buckles - yum! http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/IMG_0991.jpg Slash & SC10 http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/IMG_1002.jpg Oooh, together naked!! http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/IMG_1007.jpg Now seriously - check out that centre of gravity difference, are we suprised the Traxxas likes to go downside up?!! http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/IMG_1012.jpg |
Sorry, but the last photo seems to be taken to give maximum effect of the appearance of CG difference. Should have been taken straight from the side and not at the angle it is.
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Hey Linc,
I know its a long shot, but by chance do you think the Associated SC10 diff will work in a Rusty tranny? I'm getting very tired of the current diff and the Associated one looks very nice.:intello: |
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In more breaking SC10 news... OK, wasn't going to tinker with my toys tonight but got to thinking about this wheel issue and I have found a solution of sorts. I have mountains of B4 wheels and tyres as well as a few truck tyres. I have found that although a bit narrow for truck tyres the B4 rear wheels have the right dish. I first tried some Moabs, no way - far too big to fit and massively tall. Next shot sand paws, look pretty good - popped one on the truck, a bit of rub on the inside of the rear fender when the suspension is compressed. Lastly some HPI Yokohama Geolanders, very slight rub when compressed. I reckon I'll be using the last two setups!! I reckon shaping the foam for the Geolander should eliminate the rub, unfortunately the Sand Paws don't use foams, I'll just tape the inside of the guard and have an excuse to paint up a new shell once it wears through.. How they look: Sand Paw - http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_1021.jpg Stock - http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_1025.jpg Geolander - http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_1024.jpg |
A couple more shots for you Tex..
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_1015.jpg http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_1010.jpg I originally couldn't resist putting that picture in so accept the comments :whistle: |
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nzdans - thanks for all of the pics and info. I plan to run a reedy neo one 2 star (like a 6.5 novak) on 2s. I am guessing that might be too much?!?!? I also have a 13.5 hacker, and a novak ss8500. I will give the 2 star a try and then go to the 8500 if it is too much. Not sure if I want to go as low as the 13.5, but I can if needed. All will be run with a GTB, and 2s 5100 lipos. |
Hey Linc,
I think motor choice depends on your application and driving style. I am primarily a basher but do have a nice technical 1/10 offroad track very close to my work place (there's a BMX track even closer hehe). I may put another few packs through with the 8.5 although I really need to dial about -50% expo on my throttle curve to keep traction. I have a pretty decent selection of motors from 3.5 to 13.5 but don't have a 10.5; I want to use either 8.5 or 13.5 as they are shiny (new) blue Losi motors. My slipper doesn't noticably slip on the dirt although slips like crazy on sealed road so I'm thinking it's probably as good as it'll get for off road. I look forward to more info and pics on your build, sorry for filling up your thread with my pics. |
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I will see how the 6.5 does, but I think the 8500 motor (8.5) might be a better bet. What gearing are you using with the 8.5 and what top speed do you think you are getting? I figured that I would gear for about 30-35mph, is that too much? I always geared the pedes and rustlers for 55mph, but I bashed them pretty hard on the street and think the sc10 may need to be a bit more relaxed... |
Much better view in those pictures.
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so the sc10 and sc8 are the same size???since the body and wheels are the same size????
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Yeah I guess they are about the same, can't confirm height although I'm pretty happy I went for the cheaper model now finding out that the SC8 is just a whole lot heavier with 4WD.
Anyway for those wondering if truck wheels will fit on the rear of the SC10... http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/IMG_1027.jpg http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/IMG_1020.jpg |
Hey nzdans, what gearing are you using with the 8.5 motor?
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Built mine w/o issue. No probelm w/ the steering rubbing, no misssing parts, caught the typo on the rear links early, and my diff is like butta.
I'm addding about 6 ozs of weight to the chasssis as the SC10 is about 20 ozs lighter than the Slash and seems to need a little extra weight. Black grease in the diff, running 37.5 wt oil front and rear, gold spring up front, greens in the rear, front arms level (rtr w/ body installed), rear arms level (rtr w/ body installed), 25 degree castor blocks, moved the ball end to the outer most hole on the rear hub to make the rear links as long as possible, added some FT T4 links, alloy hinge pin brace, CVDs, assorted stainless hardware, and a custom chassis brace added to the bottom of the chassis as I've seen a few chassis break. Looking for a good 2200 KV motor to run, not sure maybe one from Medusa? |
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I ran a 5.5 in my T4. Pretty much my off road motor is a 5, or 6.5. mod Truck, and mod 4wd buggy. So the SC10 should be fine
I agree very much with your first post linc, I couldnt stand the quality of my t4. Thats gone... Its a shame, because there well designed cars, just the quality of everything is poop |
Setting my SC10 up to run in the SCT class which regulates a 17.5 motor. I just finished painting mine last night.
SC10 Specs: Hobbywing 60 Amp ESC 17.5 Brushless motor (2200 KV) Spectrum rec 21 Pinion 75 Spur 4000mah 2S 25C Lipo 5995TG Servo FT Ti Turnbuckles FT Alloy Hinge Pin brace FT Threaded shock bodies FT Shock Caps Unobtainium Shock shafts Gold Front Springs 37.5 WT Shock Oil F/R FT CVDs 1.5 Degree Rear Toe In Blocks GT2 Front A-Arms 25 Degree Castor Blocks FN Cuda Chassis Brace 6ozs of Aditional Weight Panther Medium Hard Foams http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...zfan/020-1.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t181/dezfan/025.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t181/dezfan/022.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t181/dezfan/021.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t181/dezfan/023.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t181/dezfan/027.jpg |
That's a wicked nice body Dezfan!
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After watching soe racing action this weekend, I think its safe to say that the SC10 is a much much much better racer than the slash. I Watched the race side by side and the SC10 just out-did the slash on every part of the track!
Plus, I love the scale mudflaps on the back... |
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nice truck. I ordered the rtr and plan on putting a 17.5 on it since thats what roar calls for. My track is doing open but its a small layout and I think I will be able to hang with the 17.5. |
very nice truck dezfan
how much do you think you have spent on it? |
I bought a SC10.. my first kit that I have ever put together! I still need to buy a motor.. Do you think a 10.5 will be a good all around motor? Our track is more technical than high speed right now..
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...man/rccars.jpg |
The sc8 has a truggy chassis, IIRC, so it is longer. Seems like the slash/sc10 bodies are about the same wheelbase as a 1/8 buggy. The sc10 wheels have 12mm hex, but do have staggered sidewalls like the slayer does. Pretty sure the slash is like this too (not 100%). I am guessing the sc8 and sc10 have the same over tire height, and that should be similar to the slash/slayer.
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The slash, slayer and sc10 all use the same style tires and will fit each others wheels. Also all future corr style trucks should be the same as roar has adopted these sizes as the standard for the new corr/short course class. I thought the sc10 didn't have hex wheels though, and was using T4 style drive pins and bearings in the wheels? And the sc8 uses a truggy chassis with buggy arms so it is longer then the sc10 and slash, but the wheellbase is the same as an erevo/3.3 revo. I don't know about all buggies but a slash/slayer body fitsmy ofna of buggy perfect
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Sure you were :whip:
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Have any of you raced your sc10? Was it in a class against other corr type trucks or stadium trucks? If it can hang with the stadium trucks, even if it means putting on different tires, I may get one instead of a rc10 t4 RS. I want to get in to 1/10 2wd racing. I know a rustler isn't the greatest choice, I had one and I think they are very easy to break and I'm just plain done with Traxxas for the most part. I'm also not a fan of Losi after having a couple of their smaller vehicles which I have found to all be garbage. I love my RC8T and my RC18T holds up well too, so I figured I'd stay with associated
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If you want to race 2wd 10th the losi xxx vehicles are very nice. I feel your pain with the crap losi 1/18 crap, but the xx stuff is race quality, and I feel that my xxx-cr buggy has better quality parts and design than the sc10 kit.
If you plan to race against 10th scale trucks you will not want to use a narrower track vehicle like the sc10, it will not be competitive. |
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