I need to lighten my x1 CRT
 

hi, due to heavy batts i need to lighten my crt truck, anyone can give me some tips?thxs!

Get lighter batteries?


Get more plastic parts as they are lighter then aluminum. wheels and tires play a big role too- LPR are lighter then standard mt.

I m using lpr already, I was thinking of carbon shock stays

Replace everything you can with carbon fiber.

so far i can only find front n rear shock stay by Xreme racing

Besides the FR & RR towers . The only other carbon on the crt is the top plate, radio tray & diff plate . I have seen the CF top plates break when you case a jump . I would recomend a AL top plate. I dont think your really going to loose a lot of weight by replacing the towers, toplate, & center diff plate & radio plate for what it will cost you in my opinion . Xtremercracing has more than just CF towers . They have all the CF parts for the CRT . If you get all the CF parts they make for the crt it will cost you $112.95 plus shipping .

http://www.xtremercracing.com/JAMMIN_X1_CRT.cfm

I will just get d shock towers or mayb not, I was calculating if I will to use 1600kv on 6s 5000 or 6s 6000 but I guess I m pushing d limits of my batts n car.

I hv more or less decided I will use my medusa 2000kv for my heats n cmain n change batt during my main:)

I just got my ERT back from skellyo today . I will be running a MMM 2200 combo on 4s . When i had it before i ran a neu 1515-1y on 4s with a MM with hole mod dual fans . I had no issues what so ever . So the MMM combo should be the same or better . I had plenty of speed & power on 4s with no heat issues. Thats was with all the aluminum parts .

I hv no heat n speed issue too, but I m pushing my car for 30mins wo batt swap.

But it just too expensive n pushing d car( to b lighter) n batts to b bigger n d hole in d pocket bigger too LOL

Yes going 30 min W/O a battery change is probably pushing it :lol:.

Or you could spend some money on extra batteries and practice more. More practice should equate to a better driver. A better driver should be able to make 1 stop for a battery change and have the same or less time in the pits as a nitro since they'll have to come in at least four times. Three weeks ago I was in a 16 minute main and I knew I couldn't do it on one pack with the gearing I had. I ran a steady race and was in second 10 minutes in so I came in for a swap (45-50second stop), I went back out in third but was plagued with other problems putting me in 5th for the finish. I know I'm not a great driver, maybe not even a good driver compared to other racers but I was pretty happy. Last week I finished in fourth. I have only been on a track 4 times. Just keep practicing and you'll be able to come in for a swap and still have a decent finish

just get rid of it! lol i just did and got a 2.0, my god its nuts! im a lap faster now!

I hv not much time to practise sad to say. I hv wrk n family but I m happy I can still rank top 3 in my race but mainly becoz I m pretty consistent dun take much risk.

Drive stable n not top speed LOL. But still learning from top guys here

It's d driver not d car LOL. U r good that's y

yea it is the driver but the car rotates so well, it alot faster going around the track, i was getting creamed by 2.0's all the time, so if ya cant beat em, join em

I've got a pair of 5s 3000mah zippies in a parallel config for the long mains.. 20mins is easy in my brushless 8ight-t, but I don't think I'd make a 30min main. You have to take at least 3 pits in a 30minute anyway so just make 1 pit for a battery swap and call it a day. Most all clubs allow this w/o issues. As brushless setups warrant full classes you will find they split the a-main into two 12minute or two 15minute instead of 1 long race so I wouldn't go too crazy w/ setups and purchases unless money is no object :)

I tried to plan n trial run both my 1600kv n 2000kv medusa motors with 6s 5000 with pinions from 12 to 16, very close to 30mins but can't.

The speed is less than 35mph in main, at heat is worse as pinion is 17 on 4s.

Either it's too straining in heats or too slow in main, unless I do a motor swap.

Hi Alan,

Get yourself some titanium turnbuckles man. Titanium screws help too !

www.rc-mushroom.com & www.rcmart.com for the screws

www.amainhobbies.com for the turnbuckles

Good for 100g to 150g reduction in weight.

I think a brand new X2 will help too :whistle:.

Regards,
Joe Ling

Mine is x2 gearing already. I hv decided to do a batt swap unless d 6s 6000 polyquest can do 30mins

U have any idea?

I've had two CRTs and I think I can help you out-

Carbon shock towers
Cut the radio tray down
Carbon batt tray supports unless you have RCM tray
ditch the mud guards
PLASTIC SPUR GEAR!!! rotating mass is soooo important
LPR wheels and tires
Run 4s for racing, 5s for bashing. Depending on your heats, you shouldn't need more than a 5000mah 4s1p for racing and whatever you want for bashing.
Titanium turnbuckles and screws (already mentioned)
aftermarket bodies and wings are also usually lighter

Then go practice and get better at setup. Play with shock oils and upgrade to big bores. By the way, here's one of my CRTs. It was built by nl12 but I upgrade and changed a few things to make it lighter and faster...and this was with the Tomahawk aluminum arms and a to of other aluminum upgrades:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/HPIM1253.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/HPIM1223.jpg

How many grams can d carbon shock tower save? R they stronger than cnc?

The X2 chassis is much lighter, and the diffs are lighter too. They are releasing a conversion kit (X1-X2). I'd just buy that when it come out.

Hi
where did you read it that they are releasing a conversion from X1 Truggy to X2 Truggy?
I am very interessted.