Progress Report: 1930+18120 Supermaxx
 

Hello there chaps im making a progress report with my car I hope there is no objection to me making another thread, but if there is you can delete it :P


Today i ran it at the park. Still with 12 cells.(18120, 1930/12, 17/72, 1/8eu diffs)

Within 30 seconds, my tires unglued and the where sliding sideways so they werent properly seated in the wheel half the time. Thats is ok.

Now as i was running it i felt that i still wanted to maybe get some more top speed out of it, so i was planning to get some 18/72 or 19/72 gearing.
After about 10-15 mins of running, the car was loosing signal almost all the time. When i checked i saw that my rx pack had almost completely drained(steering servo was very slow for a 200oz airtronics), which is really weird.

I checked it on a rx pack reader and it read 'high' before running the car. Maybe it is because i havent charged this pack for about 1 year, but still seems weird. Over all im quite happy with the car but i want more power.

Do you think 18 cells will make it much more powerful?

Cheers for the help so far!

Difference with 12 and 14 is HUGE allready.. Be prepared when loading it with 18 cells.. it will be a blast. You knew that the 18120 can handle 20 cells? the new 20120 is just the 18120, they relabeled them.

And with 20 cells, you're still in the safe zone with the speedo.. (with the current) gear it with sence though.. It will FLY on 18.

Thanks serum, i can wait to try 18 cells when i get my charger! EDIT! I MEANT 16 CELLS :(

Would you know anything about the rapidly draining rx pack? Does it mean im not wiring correctly?

Anyway, if 16 cells doesnt satisfy me needs, ill give 18 or 20 a go. MRC superbrain 989 can charge 10 cell packs right?

Are u sure this controller can handle 20? becuase its a 18 120 you know ;)

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...rmate_/ESC.jpg

Wait a second, i never realised my chargers can charge 16 cells...lol. This is some good news. Hope that using a medium quality charger wont hurt the packs too bad.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...e_/Charger.jpg

if the 18120 can handle 20 cells and still is in its safe zone why didnt they call it a 20120 from the start?

You step up on the cells you will see a big difference in power. and speed.

Ok im tryin to charge my 8 cell packs but they keep falsely peaking every 15 minutes or so. Is this because they have not been charged in about 1 year?

Second of all, I dont need to change any of my electronics to step up to 16 cells correct?

If cells been setting a while they will peak early. All your electronics should be good. Just have to get a few cycles in on the batteries to get the life back in them. Can you change your mv rating. I had to bump it up on the cells that sat for a while on me.

I can only charge them at 3.5 amps so meh.

About the cycling is it ok if i cycle them on my car you know, like discharge them by running the car ?

You can try to charge at a slower rate to. That helps some time. May take you longer but it get the juice in. You can disharge them on the car. That is the fun way to do it. :D

Don't know. you tell me, it simple is a fact.

perhaps they wanted it to be a step up from the schulzes.

i can get some 10 cell packs done by ballisticbatteries, but i gotta know for sure nothing gonna fry before i do that :)

I don't know If I would run 20 cells on the 1930 12 t. You may want to try the 16 first. Make sure the motor don't run hot and such.

it's a 1700 kv Leroy. go figure..

YEah but that is under load to. It is not that big of a motor either. The 20 cells is going to add some serious weight to the truck. That was my concern.

gear with sence..

that's my policy..

It's a 120A controller, it should do fine, the max rpm on that motor is 65K, so it is still in the safe zone.

It will shorten it's lifespan, that's for sure...

on 20 cells it's insane to drive, you won't be able to do offroad with it imo.. (too fast) for offroad, 16 cells would be perfect.

Ok well today i tried the 16 cells and tbh im quite dissapointed with the performance.

Maybe it was because it is their first run in a year(batts), but the car only wheelied like 5 times and it wasnt very fast either.

I dont know what to say really. Ont thing that really annoyned me is that there was a peice of wood stuck in the suspension and it managed to dissamble one of my supershocks. So now i have a missing part for the shock that i dont have. Also notice the spring is bent and the shock shaft came out of the thread(on the car). Overall a dissapionting day for the car :/

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...te_/Shocks.jpg

Sorry bout the shock situation. I thought I was going to be in the same predicament earlier this week, but I managed to stop the truck before anything happened.

I just ordered some iB 3800's 16cells from Boom Boom Batts. I can't wait to try them out on the new Wanderer 7xl I have coming in. I'll let you know how crazy that gets. The batts were pretty well priced and came with G-maxx batt straps. Ask Alex Berman if you decide to get some new cells, and Mike can get cells also.

NiMh cells need to be cycled a few times when they haven't been used in a while. It's like a person in a coma waking up; they need some time to be back to normal.

Is that whats causing such low performance? I mean i would be expecting ALOT more. Lets say i report in 5 cycles?

If you let nimhs set for a good amount of time. You do need to cycle them a few times.

My guess is only 3 cycles for them to be as good as they can be.

Tried it again today. Second recharge of the 16 cells, still only 1 or 2 wheelies, OK speed, But it seems all 4 wheels were spinning inside the tires for like half the time. Whats the most powerful tire glue out there? Or maybe im glueing them wrong.

Usually super glue or team orion tire glue works well for me. Rumor has it, losi tire glue is the best, according to rccaraction

If the performance stays a little on the sucky side as it is, im gonna think about buying a 1940/6 motor. Or Should i go with the 1950.

the 1940/6 is a good motor and snouldn't get the 1950 unless truck is over 12 pounds

I kind of disagree. that would be like saying you don't need a 2240 unless you have a 15 lb truck. It is the user goals that determine this. I like more power. as long as the drive line can almost survive.

Can mike get me a 1950? Or Any motor that is not on the site?

Anyways,

You know since i was expecting so much more out of my setup, i REALLY dont want to take the wrong motor( again?), so if you say a 2240 might also be good on 16 cells and will work with the 18120, then i will consider it aswell.

What is wrong with the 1930 setup? Is it not fast enough or strong enough.

I got a question for you. Do you have your batteries wired in parrellal or series? I have seen people wire them parellal and wonder why it don't run fast.

oh and mike can get the 1950 motors.

16 cells in series, with a y-adapter in series, 1930/12 motor, 1/8 ue diffs, 17/72 gearing. 3rd cycle of batts which are 1 year old (ballistic batteries zapped and assembled) and have never been run, NOT fast enough :P

Maybe its my wheels spinning inside the tires. Ill give it 4-5 more cycles with the fixed tires then i decide on a 1950 or a 22 series if the mounting is not too difficult.

OH and does the 22 series work with 18120?

Cheers!

Could you get a video of your truck? I liketo see what it is doing. It should be fairly quick. Unless you want a all out speed demon.

I can do that. Where can i host my vid.

i figured you would dissagree and i also understand why you like power.
remember i said you dont really need a motor bigger than a 1940 unless your truck is over 12 pounds but i didnt say you cant put a bigger motor in your truck. I also thought he might be on a tighter budget(like me) than somebody else.
i would actually like to put a 2240 in my truck but i cant afford one right know
dont get me wrong i have always thought the more power the better and i will always think that way

I can not speak about a 2240. I have the 2250 and it is awesome. I have not got the full potential yet. I am trying some things to fix it. I want to try a 1950 as well. I have a 1930 10t now. I think it is a nice little more. It is pretty decent on speed and power.

Hey swift. Iwas crunching some numbers on your truck. You are under geared with that truck. It should be running about 22 mph top speed. That may be a problem on wheelies to. Do you have some other gearing to try. Go back to a 66 tooth spur and 18 pinion. I may be off on tires size.


May even want to try a bigger pinion than that. Something about a 20 or so.

I read somewhere that a guy called Emaxxman AZ runs the same gearing and he had very similar motor to me so that is why i chose this gearing. But the thing is the car is not even pulling wheelies with this gearing. Are you sure about the gearing? I have a 66 tooth from my original E that i can try.

Here is the car i was talking about:

http://forum.maxxtraxxusa.com/showth...2&page=1&pp=10

I can get any Lehner motor you want, but I have a feeling coolhand is probably right. The 1930 motor is a little powerhouse and judging by your posts, you have something going on with your setup. I would be happy to sell you another motor, but lets get to the bottom of this first - another motor with the same incorrect battery configuration(or whatever the issue may be) will still be unimpressive. I have a 1930 is my G2R and it has pLENTY of power. Got any pictures of your wiring?

6volt rx pack plugged into Receiver, 16 cells, y adapter, deans, 12 gauge wire, BEC pulled out...

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...te_/Emaxx1.jpg