Losi 8ight video
 

I have been posting updates on my Losi 2.0 8ight build and I finally got a chance to get some video of it in action on the track. The day I was filming was open practice so you will see a lot of different vehicles out there and it was pretty crazy. There were several truggies (Kyosho ST-R, Losi 8ight-T, jammin), buggies (Mugen, Losi 8ight), Associated SC8, Slashes and a Revo. The red truggy near the end of the video was the ST-R, and somewhere in the video you will see the Revo fly off the track over the back wall. There was a quad section that normally you would double-double, but under certain conditions clearing the entire section was better, none of the nitros could clear the section cleanly, the brushless Losi easily cleared it and I actually had to be careful not to go to far.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BP2be0ztm2k

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05406.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/P1010035.jpg

Stats:
Losi 2.0 8ight Racer roller with the Losi brushless conversion
MMM 2200 combo (Motor/ESC)
Running a Losi Smart Diff in the center
Stock diff oil front/rear
4s Lipo batteries 5000mah
Gearing 47/14T
Green springs in front black springs in the rear, stock oil.
Stock Losi tires

Thats some nice clean driving Shark!

Your buggy really shows the instant power of BL in that vid, you made that quad and the next stretch of jumps look easy! Some of those jumps are really nice! And you had some good saves in there as well.

Nitrostarter, thanks. Yeah I was a little ragged at first because I had no warm up laps and there was a bunch of vehicles on the track that were motoring around at much different speeds (truggies vs Slashes). Also the track was really dry, and had not been blown off or watered all day so it was kind of slippery and with the power I had on tap I had to drive really smooth. Those quad jumps were fun, not really the fastest line, because unless you nailed your landing you flew too far and people can get inside of you. But several times people tangled trying to double-double and I just flew over the pile.

Very nice! Great looking track, lots of flow. I love the banked sweeping corner at the end of that straight.

Nice...it seemed as though your buggy was just gliding around the track w/no effort. You could really see in your vid the advantages to BL over nitro. Very nice driving BTW!

here is some more 8ight-e action... video gets cut as my daughter got tired of taping but ended up #2, but one of my laps didn't get counted as I lapped everyone 1x by the end. My next race only logged in 2 laps and ended up moving my transponder to a new location ;) Working much better now :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnSCu...e=channel_page

You drive well, but you jump better! I can't help but notice the T8 in the bottom pic. Have you run that yet? How does it compare to the CCNeu?

Wow. So many 1/8 electrics on one track!

Shark, how does the 2200 compare to the 2650 you had before power,temp wise and what tekin motor is that in the picture?

Ok I know there are some sharp people on this forum, that would notice I had a T8 motor in the picture. I originally had a MMM 2650kv motor and was pleased with the power and lighter weight, but I could not consistantly get the temps where I wanted them with the gearing available to me (45T spur). So I tried a MMM 2200kv motor out of my truggy and it was great, performance wise and temps were better. But when the Tekin T8 motors came out I really liked what people were saying about the power, it could be use sensored or sensorless, and I like that it had solder on post, 4mm mounting holes and it was lighter, so I sold the MMM 2650kv motor and got a Tekin 2050kv buggy motor (the one in the picture). Unfortunetly, on the first pack the magnet separated from the shaft and I had to reinstall my MMM 2200kv truggy motor. Don't get me wrong while it was running the Tekin motor was great, matter of fact I am running a 2100 T8 in my truggy and have about 8 packs thru it with no issues. I contacted Tekin and they admitted there was an issue with some of the earlier rotors and a new improved rotor was now being produced and they would send me one right away no questions asked. This is a great example of a company showing they stand behind their product. So for now I am running the MMM 2200kv motor with a 47T spur that gives me many more gearing options, the temps are consistant and the MMM works great with the T8.

So shark i have a mmm 2200kv combo should i keep that for a buggy that i am going to get or get a 2650kv motor.Thanks.:smile:

Blaz: What are you planning on doing? Racing? How many cells do you want to run?

Either 2650 or 2200 motors would be good in the Buggy. Just depends on your setup.

Blaz, as Nitrostarter mentions a lot has to do with your setup and what you plan on using your buggy for. Also, if you already have the 2200kv motor why don't you try it in your buggy and see how it performs for you, then decide.

The only physical difference between the 2200 and the 2650 is the length. What does that do? It makes you have gear higher to get the same top speed, and changes the range of efficient operation. Like for example, the 2200 would handle a lot of stop and go driving due to the bigger area to disapate heat and the fact that it doesn't have to rev and re-rev so much. If you were to stay at more of a constant speed the 2650 would be better because higher rpm up to a certain point is more efficient. At least that's my theory. My 2650 geared for 60 mph on 5s in a HUGE parking lot where I don't have to slow down very often runs about 10 degrees cooler than when i run in front of my house on 4s and have to break to almost a full stop to turn around again every 250 feet.

ok i'll try my 2200kv motor in it first and see how i like it.And i am using it for racing.thanks for the advice.:mdr:

hey shark i'm just wondering where did you get ur roller at?thanks.:smile:

Blaz, I got it back in January from Amain Hobbies, they had it on sale and I was able to use a $25 off coupon as well.

Got my replacement rotor from Tekin, excellent customer support.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/03150001.jpg
This is the separated magnet

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05977.jpg
Old rotor

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05975.jpg
New and improved rotor.

Improved? In what way (just curious...) Aside from how it looks...do you know what the change was and why...

And the important question - have you driven it yet?

man I got an extra rotor but it didn't look like that.

In my opinion the use of the large aluminum spacer instead of tubular steel spacer gives the bonding compond/glue more surface area to better hold the magnet to the shaft.

I got the buggy out on the track this weekend and it ran very well. Temps looked good. Got around 20 mins out of a 5000mah 4s lipo.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...ekin061409.jpg

Temp A = motor, Temp B = Battery

I had an unusual breakage this weekend. I broke the front inner hinge pin plate. The Losi hinge pins are captured and held by plastic plates on each end. I broke the inner plate and this allowed the hinge pin to slip out and cause the a-arm to fall off (and take the driveshaft with it). I can 't understand how this part would break, could have been from a hard frontal impact that pushed the pin back far enough to break the plastic part, but the front hinge pin plate (plastic and aluminum) parts looked fine, no bends.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/01050002.jpg
Part is broken near the screw that is sticking out. The screw is sticking out because I was going to remove the plate but decided to take a few pictures first.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/01050006.jpg

Don't get me wrong, I love the way my Losi's handle but the quality of the plastics leaves a lot to be desired. I've snapped an ear off the diff case so I'm betting your issue is just some brittle plastic and as you suggested, the hinge pin may have pushed it a small bit.

Every time something breaks on my Losi's, I try to replace it with a King Headz part.

Dave, you read my mind. I ordered a King Headz alloy hinge pin brace on Monday and it arrived today.

Here is the King Headz replacement, beautiful machine work. I don't expect it to break like the stock Losi plastic part. I also noticed that the hinge pin had wear marks only on the ends, which means the pins mostly rotated with the a-arm. This tends to wear out the hinge pin plates, but the King Headz part has small set screws which locks the pins so the a-arm rotates around the pin, the a-arm has far more bearing surface than the hinge pin plates and the suspension should stay tighter (less slop) longer. I guess it wouldn't hurt to ream out the a-arms as well.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/01060002.jpg

I've been racing my 8ights for a while now and for the most part I've only ever broken were a few front kuckles (plastics). Everything else has held up like a tank... I don't have any issues w/ the losi plastics. I think the only other problems I've had was when a shock screw backed out on the inside where it screws the disc onto the shaft and I have warn out a few front center drive shafts (where they hit the center diff output). knock on wood (knock.. knock.. knock)