Brushless gear meshing
 

hey guys,

Just wanted to get a basic ideal of the best way to setup the gear meshing? like nitro? I want it to be perfect. thoughts suggestions thanks!

If you are dunning steel on steel I usually set it by sound. If you have it too tight it will be loud. Steel on plastic I usually set by getting the closer, then slowly spinning the spur by hand to feel for any tight spots. If there are any I just open the mesh up a bit till it runs smooth thru 360 deg of rotation. Steel on plastic is usually a little looser than steel on steel, at least from my experience. Not much, but a little.

Eyeballing it, or like how Linc described. The old paper trick also works well; mesh the pinion to the spur quite tightly, then feed a piece of paper between them as you rotate the spur or pinion by hand. It shouldnt get torn or stick, just feed through smoothly and come out looking like an accordion...

so put the gear as tight against the spur as possible?

just put a piece of paper between spur and pinion and push the motor towards the spur and tighten the screws. now pull out the paper and it should not tear. perfect mesh

i decided to mod the chassis so i am now using 48t metal stock gear and 18t pin. Metal on Metal. question now is should the pin and the spur teeth line up exactly or should the pin be a little forward. I can not get the meshing just right, and its pissing me off. should it make a crazy grinding noise? what exactly am i looking for?!!!

I clink mine. by clink i mean hold the pinion gear and wiggle the spur back and forth, there should be about 1/2mm of movement- just enough to make a small clinking noise. if your running a 2200 it will be loud at low rpm and coasting because of the motor design.

BAH! its the junk arse 18t pin that came with the castle motor. i was calculating wrong with the rc tool. the stock losi 8ight-t truggy tires are 5.5 inch dia. Im using the 16t gear now with 48t geared for 40ish MPH. Its a lot better pin gear. sounds much better now.!

The pinion that comes with the castle motor is 32 pitch, the 8ight uses mod 1... explains the grinding noise. Probably destroyed that pinion as well, it is only aluminum I believe. Get some hardened pinions from the RC-Monster store and you will be all set.

THats one thing i never got, why did castle include 32p gears for a motor intened for 8th scale vehicle, all of which have mod1 gears..

5mm bore mod1 pinions are easier to come by than 5mm bore 32p. And the included pinion is probably what Castle thought would be ideal gearing for the motor in vehicles requiring 32p (E-Revo + E-Maxx).

you can get both at the same place, for about the same price. there should be an option of what to get.

It's not always so easy. For example, the LHS I work at doesn't carry 5mm bore 32p, but there are 5mm bore mod1. Can't even order the 32p gears...

LOL ,i had no ideal that it was a 32p. LOL. i did destroy the plastic spur gear. :( Running good now. Im geared 16T Pin and 48T Spur. getting in the 40mph range. Not sure about temps. As long as i can touch my battery and the gears/motor and not get burned i should be good right?

16/48 is a good match and should yield good temps on the 8ight. what battery are you using? and what motor again? the losi motor or a castle neu?

castle/neu 2200kv with Mamba Monster. running Turnigy 5000mAh 25C 4S1P and Rhino 4900mAh 20c 5sp1. Just got thru running outside, loving it. so about the TEMPS. If i can touch the motor/battery/gears with my bare hand and hold it there and not get burned thats ok temps dont ya think?

Well ya, there can be mild burning, maybe some bubbling of the epidermis layer, and a bad smell. You should be good.

yeah, thats perfect. if you dont have a temp guage then basically if your motor is too hot to hold your finger on for one second its too hot. and your esc will kick the fan on and then thermal if its too hot. it sounds like everything is good and i would think so with the setup you have. i ran the same setup in my 8t. 4s, 5000mah, MMM on Neu 1.5d 2700kv and 15/48 gearing and never got too hot. so if i didnt get hot with that setup you definitely should not.

when should the fan kick on the ESC? i would rather have it running all the time, is there a way to do that?

it does not need to be running all the time. its set to kick in at 150 degrees. if the setup does not reach that- the fan wont come on. thats a good thing :)

I would strongly recomned getting an IR temperature gun Mentat, its very important to know the temps on your batts, esc and motor. The 3 second trick of touching the motor works, but thats not a good indicator of actual temps; one persons hot is another persons boiling and all that...

180*F max for the motor, ideally 120-160*F.
120*F max for lipos, ideally 100-110*F.
160*F max for the esc, ideally 100-140*F.

IF engine temps are high whats a good way to get them lowered? Im running the CC Mamba Monster 2200kv combo. Using 6mm bullet connectors. 48t metal spur 16t pin. I think it may be getting to hot after running for a while. it was so hot the other day that i spit on it and it sizzled right away. Im currently running the Losi conversion kit. I have the tekno kit in the box still.

:diablo:

Adjust gearing, probably lower by a couple teeth on the pinion, but thats why you need the temp gun- you can plot the temperature rises or drops vs gearing changes and see what direction you need to go in. Adjusting the timing to medium and start power to low will help (if it isnt already), along with higher punch control, maybe 60-70%. Temp guns cost about $15-20, really important piece of kit- you dont want to cook the motor and demagetize it, as that will only make it run hotter and hotter until the esc and lipos go puff..

i have a Dynamite temps gun. Its not very accurate tho, i used it when i was running nitro and it appeared to be way off compared to other guns. Ill def get one.





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