Hot motor OUCH!
 

So i had been running my 4s and 5s lipo pack on my Mamba Monster 2200kv combo, in my 8t 1.0 race roller kit. im using 48t metal spur and 16t pin. I think my motor is getting way hot, so hot that my spit just sizzles away. ESC/Batteries are nice an warm if even that. Thoughts? I have a 15t pin i can use, i want the engine cool and fast, can i change some settings on my ESC to correct this? Or do i need to change pin or spur?

If you're boiling spit away chances are you've gone well over 200F and most likely a point of no return. With those kinda temps I bet the protective coating on your windings is bad or gone in some places creating a short circuit. Could also be that you damaged your windings with screws that were too long when you mounted the motor. Not saying this is the case, it could just be way over geared.

Get a temp gauge, only real way to tell how hot it's getting.

Yah, because technically it shouldn't take much to evaporate a water based liquid away... ~160F I'm sure. Get a temp gun just to be sure.

TEMP GUN, Lower gearing, Higher Punch control,lower motor timing. ALL Nessecities for cooling running.

you say that the engine may be past the point of no return? It has ran strong and fine. I have a temp gun which is not very accurate. Ill try the things u guys suggest and see where i am at. but the point of no return comment. wouldnt i be able to see some signs of damage? Engine not running right, acting funny? becuase its running like a scared ape. can i look inside the engine and see damage? now you guys have me worried. i dont want to have to buy a new engine.

A motor that has been overheated to the point of partially demagnetizing the rotor will get hot with equal or less performance as it had. Not only is the motor getting hotter (lost efficiency), but it is harder on the ESC and battery as well.

is there a way to tell by looking at it?

Not really. The anodizing on the motor case sometimes can have fine "cracks" if it got too hot, but doesn't necessarily mean it did get too hot. Even a little loss in magnetic strength can result in a substantial loss of performance and increased heat.

Has your runtime decreased lately? If a rotor got partially demagged, you probably have to apply more throttle to retain the same performance, and this should show up as reduced runtime.

What gearing are you using? If you are running on asphalt doing nothing but high speed runs with little stop-and-go, the motor could just be would out and need a little more gearing. If you are doing lots of stop and go (like racing or general bashing), gear down a couple of teeth.

its brand new, i have ran 2 packs thru it. 4s1p 5000mAh and a 5s1p 4900mAh and that is it. the first pack it didnt really get to hot. the 5 cell pack is when it started heating up. I just want to know if i need to buy a new motor. I am running mamba monster 2200kv combo 48t spur, 16t pin. i want to stay around 40ish if i can, even 35 i guess. Its for my 8ight-t 1.0 race roller. Its probaly had about an hour of run time on it total, and its not like it was running non stop, i would run for a few laps, then stop for a bit to kool down. One thing for sure tho is that the engine doesnt cool off real fast. New engine or not? If so which engine would be decent? Its almost like the 2200kv motor is to much for the Truggy. Thoughts, Help!

If it's brand new, I'd try gearing down a tooth or two first. If you do a lot of stop-and-go on a tight track, you probably need more torque and aren't hitting top speed very often anyway.

what do you think about the engine being damaged tho? Chance everything is ok?

Run it gently for a while. If it still gets hot, then something happened to it. If it's cool, gear down and run it normally.

On the gearing down part, should i try the 15t pin or go lower? what settings should i change in the Mamba Monster to improve cooling? ESC us staying cool so are the batteries. Any info our thoughts are appreciated.

Mentat

15t pinion on 5s is crazy speed for sure, i run a 13t for 4 or 5s with a 1y, shoot 13t on 4s is fast enough!

Yeah i bought the 5s just to see what it would do, i prefer to run 4s and i will be, so u think a 13t will do the trick? 48/13 will give good temps on the motor?

Hot motor and cool ESC/batteries usually means undergeared, but since you are geared kinda high, I would say gear down 2 teeth on the pinion (like big greg said). See if there is a change and regear accordingly.

so my 48t spur gear is fine then? i can keep that and just fiddle with the pins to get the best result?

Generally, pinions are cheaper than metal spurs, but plastic spurs are cheaper than pinions. Depends what you have on hand and/or what is available for that vehicle.

BTW: To gear down, decrease the pinion tooth count or increase the spur tooth count.

thanks, i just ordered 2 pins for RC Monster. 10t and a 13t hope these do the trick

What temp gun would yall recommend? I need one myself.

This is one of if not the best gun on the market, U.S.made also.
.
Raytek's mission is to be the leading supplier of infrared, noncontact, industrial temperature measurement instruments in the world. Founded in 1963, Raytek designs, manufactures, markets and services a complete line of infrared, noncontact temperature measurement instruments for industrial, process control and maintenance applications. We strive to develop instruments that improve the productivity, reliability, and efficiency of our customer's processes and maintenance activities and, ultimately, the quality of their products and services. We use profit as a means for creating a company where people can develop and use their skills in an exciting, challenging and rewarding environment.


http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com...qx/product.htm

Yes on the 8ight-t 1.0 a 15t/48t on 5s is more than enough iMO (40+ w/ tire bloat) on a 1515 2.5d (1650kv). Out racing on the track I often turn it down a touch on my Rx as well. To be honest 14t is the best gearing on a 5s setup w/ the 2.5d, but I didn't want to spend another 14 on a pinion right now, lol.

On to your setup.. I think 12t on a 2200 is WAY WAY more than enough, 13t is pushing it expecially on 5s lipo.. gear for 38-40 for racing, 45 for bashing and maybe a touch higher for some random speed runs only. Keep your MMM timings low to lowest as well, punch control should not be really high iMO (10-20% max).. as for the other settings having the drag break on will increase temps as well so disable it and learn to brake if you have that on.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEMG5&P=ML

Here's the temp gauge I use, had it for 2 years and it works very well and I'm still on the original battery.

i have 2 of those.

they read a little lower than the actual temp. when my savage was still nitro, the duratrax temp gun read 245F while my venom direct contact (loops around engine head or motor) gauge read 290F. i compared the venom gauge with a high-end temp gun and it is very accurate. with my brushless motors, the duratrax generally reads only 10-15F lower than the venom gauge.

Did you have the Emissitivity set right?

For temp guns I would recommend a Raytek MT4. I have used mine for years and it is spot on! They can be had on ebay quite cheap versus picking one up elsewhere.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rayte...lenotsupported