RC-Monster Forums - Crimping powerpole 45 amp connectors

RC-Monster Forums (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/index.php)

- General Discussion (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20)

- - Crimping powerpole 45 amp connectors (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22057)

Crimping powerpole 45 amp connectors

So I am wondering if I can find a set or crimping blocks for my Greelee ratchet crimper that will work with powerpole connectors... Some digging will be in order, and I plan to solder the wires after I crimp them for extra gangsta connections!

Any info on what you guys use will be handy!

Tool is the Quik Cycle and currently has a die set for crimping coax.

Looks like this but with a different die : http://www.toolup.com/greenlee/45541.html

if you are also soldering the crimping is really unecessary, IMO. But it certainly would be extra gangsta.

Quote:

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_ (Post 301297)

if you are also soldering the crimping is really unecessary, IMO. But it certainly would be extra gangsta.

From what I have read crimping is better than soldering for conductivity...

Quote:

Originally Posted by lincpimp (Post 301305)

From what I have read crimping is better than soldering for conductivity...

I assumed it was the other way around. I'm totally breaking out the butt connectors and crimping tool. F soldering.....

Quote:

Originally Posted by lincpimp (Post 301305)

From what I have read crimping is better than soldering for conductivity...

I was told the solder was more conductive the metal itself.:neutral:

Wheres BrianG when you need him, I am sure he has a 1/2 page explanation of why one is better than the other. Gotta love BG, he is like a knowledge keg. Just needs tapping every now and then (that sounds questionable...)

Edit - Another great read - http://hamslife.blogspot.com/2007/08...olderless.html

http://www.ezonemag.com/pages/faq/a108.shtml

Quote:

Are soldered or crimped joints better?

Q. Are soldered or crimped joints better?
A. Steve Lewin

This always causes some debate. For many joints there is no choice but to solder e.g. the wires to a motor terminal. Solder makes a fine electrical joint provided it is done correctly i.e. heat the pieces up sufficiently, apply the solder to the items being joined not to the iron and do not allow the joint to move until it has cooled. Solder is intended to make electrical connections, not glue things together. Ideally solder joints should always be mechanically supported. Even a piece of heat shrink round the joint helps to take some strain off the solder joint itself.

For terminals designed to be crimped e.g. Sermos / Powerpoles, the general consensus is that crimped joints are better, but only if you have the correct crimping tool and know how to use it. You also need to use the correct size crimps for the wiring. Crimping a tiny wire into a connector intended for 14g will not work well. Even worse is cutting bits off the wire to get it into the crimp. However almost all electrical joints in modern aircraft and space vehicles are crimped and that's not because they can't afford the solder.

One of the main disadvantages of soldering is that the solder wicks into the wire and stiffens it. If the wire is then flexed it is likely to break just there. Crimping overcomes this but is it easy to make a poor joint both electrically and mechanically if you just attack the connector with an old pair of pliers. If you are not willing or able to use the correct tool, which can be expensive, it is probably better to solder the joint.

Solderless connections have less resistance so they're more efficient.

The PWRCimp is a fairly inexpensive crimper that will do the 25amp, 35amp, and 45amp power poles.

I've used this for years and as long as the crimps are done right, you don't need to add solder.

Been crimping power poles on my Ebikes for over a year now. 1200 miles and not a failure yet. Can't say the same for my solder jobs....

Linc, I typically just use needle-nose pliers to bend the crimp wings down so that they hold the wire while I solder it. That way, IF you need to remove the wire, you can just heat it up and pull it out since the crimp isn't holding it in.

I would say that a well-crimped connection will have no discernable difference in resistance compared to soldering. However, if you think about it, if you start with a crimped connection, and solder it, the soldering fills in the gaps between the round wires in the crimp. So that should have less resistance. No?

+1 ^^^ i use those. but i have to hit the 45amp connector with the 25 or 35 sometimes to get a good snug fit.

I have heard conflicting arguments about soldering vs. crimps. But i think it comes down to this
"if you have cold solder joints....your fuked":na:

Ha ha, 1/2 page explanation eh? Anyway, here's my 1/4 page explanation:

Crimping
It's fast; I can certainly crimp more connections than soldering. After all, it takes time to tin both sides and then solder them together. Also, crimping is easy when you have the right tools. Those are the only two pro-crimping arguments I can come up with.

Soldering
IMO, it's a better connection. Remember, wire is usually round, and the contact patch of a round object is limited when crimped. Soldering eliminates that. Also, soldering eliminates the chance of oxidation of the wires since they are more exposed (although I have seen crimps that are encased in a peanut-buttery goo to address that). Ever see a wire left bare after a year or so? Its surface is discolored and can't have the same conductivity as a fresh wire. And any increase in resistance using soldering might be attributed to the make-up of the solder. Lead-tin is probably not as good as silver (but much easier to use). Also, you have to know how to solder. Soldering also makes connector replacement easier; every time you want to replace a crimped connector, you have to cut it off and that shortens the wire each time.

how bout price comparisons

The tricrimp looks good, I just need the dies to use in my greenlee though, but no one sells just the dies... Guess I am screwed and will have to buy the entire crimper. I plan to add flux to the wire, then crimp it, then feed a little solder in. Only reason I am crimping is a stock 45amp connector will not fit the plastic housing unless you bend the tabs. If I have to bend the tabs I may as well crimp it, right... It will mechanically hold the wire, and the solder can fill the gaps!