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It's not about the Size of the wire its how you use it...... Or is it?
I seen this brought up and was wondering. Does the length of the wire that u use matter? If so why? Example. Wire from the ESC to Motor. etc...
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so on the CC Monster Mamba 2200kv combo, is it recommend that you trim the wires to the exact size that u need them all around?
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Shorter wires are better. I do not think that you will need to shorten the esc to motor wires, but I try to keep the battery to esc wires as short as possible...
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I called Castle about this issue with my combo and for my Hydra controllers. The tech guy suggested that if possible, shorten those wires! Better signals and faster responses, but also does something with the backfeed. So put those soldering skills to work and shorten some wires!
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If im correct, all those three motor wires should be same lenght for optimal performance.
I think you cant see nor measure any difference in stock wire lenght vs short as possible, the performance improvement is in your head... As difference in lenght in only few centimeters, solderings play bigger role. |
Yes, shorter motor wires would be better, it would have reduced cable inductance, thus cleaner back EMF signal processing.
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i don't know how something that travels near the speed of light can be measured.
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The speed of light has been measured.... There are measurement units based on the speed of light (light-years).
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lol. the human eye or brain im betting can not perceive the difference in the shorten wires.
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Correct. But It can sense the extra cogging or blown ESC from backfed EMF...
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that brings up another questions, whats the deal with sensorless and sensored motors? the good the bad etc...
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In days of old when knights were bold and you could still get a round in for under a fiver (£5), sensored was the way to go for minimum cogging and maximum reliability, as sensorless setups relied on dodgy escs with poor software, so cogging was a horrid problem. These days withn the likes of CC and Tekkin's latest escs and software/firmware, cogging is pretty much history.
The main issue now is that some companies rely on the sensored factor of their systems in order to convince people its better & thus make a sale, where as infact the real difference is down to power and control finess. The hvmaxx is fine for 4s lipo and pushing around stock emaxxes, but if you need/want more power and/or speed, you have to step up to a more powerful system, and thats where the Tekkin and CC stuff is king. There is a good thread burried in the Castle sub-forum where Patrick explains about their software and why its better than sensored systems 99% of the time. End of the day- hvmaxx for 40mph and low gearing with moderate power and weight of truck (its a 380xl rotor in a 550 can), CC or Tekkin for anything more powerful or heavier (true 550 sized motor). |
lol, nice write up. I guess what im wanting to know is how this is going to help me? I have been toying with getting a tekin system for my custom truggy im building. What will a sensored system do that a sensorless wont? I like the looks of the new tekin RX8 stuff with a 2250kv Truggy motor. So why and when would i run it sensorless or sensored modes.
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sensors allow the esc to sense the motors rotor position, and can deliver power accordingly to reduce cogging. Cogging use to be a major problem but todays software revisions have pretty much eliminated cogging.
Some people will swear to you sensored systems are smoother. These are usually racers who know their cars so well they can feel if a fly landed on it from the drivers stand. There aren't situations where you would use sensored or sensorless. If your motor and esc support sensors you use them. If one or both don't support sensors you don't use them. edit: also- more wire=more resistance |
I skipped most of all the posts, so heres my take on it, in the electronics industry ( as far as I know) most companys try to make wires, traces, and whatever else any kind of signal travels threw ASAP to reduce EMI (Electro-mag-interference) which long conductors do fantaasticly good at at picking up EMI, think of a long wire or trace on a circuit board like an antenna, it'll pick up a lot of crap signals that you DON"T want, and the other side of it is, every condutor has a resistance, resistance robs power, in most cases the resistance is so small that its barely even measurable but once you get enough then you start losing power and making heat, and in a wires case I beilieve it has a positive temp coefficent (might be negative) where as the wires temp goes up so does the resistance not by alot but in the end it just keeps reducing the power that goes to your motor..
Hope most of thats correct and hopefully I didn't confuse anyone. |
Yeah, im thinking that it doesnt matter. Thanks for all the info guys.
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I try to use the thickest wires I could find.. too bad they don't have 8AWG silicone wire... and for sensored and sensorless.. I have never had any problem with cogging when using low KV sensorless motors.. In the past, I only had cogging with higher KV motors... It was the lehner motors.. they have two different winding configurations.. I tried the asterisk or delta .. geared for the same speed.. the lower kv setting was much better...
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