Monster esc refurbs for $100!
 

http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...r_refurbs.html

All the goodness, half the price.

Lee

Does this mean that the next generation MMM will be switchless?

No, it means these are switchless.

Do you want the next one to be switchless?

Thanks

Lee

Hellz yeah!
losing the switches makes them more reliable from what I have seen.. and less headache when you think your esc might have died.:yes:

Switches are nothing but trouble. On every esc I've had the switch is a pain. You have to make sure it's on all time, you have to worry about it switching off landing a jump, and you have to worry about it getting caught in rotating parts.

It also causes Noobs to switch the esc off, leave their lipos plugged in, and over discharge their lipos because they didn't unplug them. No switch would force them to unplug their investment.

Honestly, I love the switch on the Traxxas VXL esc. Do you guys think it would be possible to employ a switch like that? It could also be used for quick setting changes in the field.

EDIT: Also approximately how many of these are on hand for sale?

HEHE, I knew those returned v1 and v2 escs were not binned! Good move, a little recycling and giving us the opportunity to snag a deal.

+1, I recall Patrick saying they were all chucked into a big tub until they figured out what to do with them. Makes having a spare esc alot cheaper and more viable.

"There's no such thing as silicon heaven"
"But where do all the calculators go?"
"They just.. die"
"..."

I actually like the switches... just make them reverse contact like the MGM's... If the switch goes out (rips off), the ESC defaults to on.

Fanless would be cool to since one of mine that I pulled the fan out of runs perfectly pack after pack.

Count my vote for no switch and no fan.

Also, it may not be feasible or important, but the ability to easily upgrade the heatsink for fanless operation might be a plus. Something like a bolt-on style would be nice IMO.

+1 especially for the mmpro

Wow! Are they all gone already? I just clicked on the link again and the buy it now option is gone....

Damn i have been going through there trash and All i found were a few outrunners and some Mamba max's:no:

haha
THis makes it alot easier to get a spare esc...and the switchlessness is a plus. would castls be mad if I set the entire bottom of the board in hotglue to prevent components from coming off :lol:

Guess where my next paycheck is going (if they are instock)

I just got off the phone with Castle. the lady said there were a couple questions to take care of before releasing these. They will be back up for sale again soon.

Q. Are the traces for the switch still present on the pcb (could a person not bothered about the warrenty, and with a good iron and soldering skills, open the case and solder on their own switch if they so desired)?

The more I think about it, the more this sounds like the bargain of the decade. And if memory serves, there are rather a lot of V1s and V2s that were sent in for replacement that werent actually broken/ only minor damage caused by dead BECs, so that means this will be a limited offer type affair right?

Since they ARE earlier generations i doubt they would make a new run of board so My thoughts are that the traces are still there.

Thats kinda what I figured, but you never now what components might have been left out of the switch part of the circuit making it impossible for the switch to work even when soldered on correctly. Or Im just over thinking it like normal...

If I wanted a spare MMM, I would want a switch, since I've never had issues with mine is all Im thinking.

Another vote to chuck the switch, I have clipped off the switch on every ESC I've owned. At the least mold a mount for it on the case and eliminate the lead.

And +1 to safety, like Metallover said it would be impossible to forget to unplug.

I may just get one of the refurbs, great price!

Don't do it -- the main issue with the V1 and V2 was the inductance of the switch wiring harness. It fried the BEC. That's why we are offering the refurbed V2 without a switch.

In the V3 we changed the method used to turn the ESC on and off, which solved the issue.

So the switch is what caused all these problems? thats ironic, but glad you got them all sorted out :)

Inductance from the switch harness??? Wow, that must have been pretty delicate circuitry to be affected by that!

haha thats why my v2 with the switch removed from circuit board is still working...

Funny, I guess that is why the switch still works on the working v2 I have that had the BG mod done to it!

SO I should remove the switch from my v2s then? I really like the bullet connectors for the batt side, and don't want to lose this if (knock on wood) one of my v2s bites the dust. Been running strong for over a yr now...

Yeah castle should go back to all bullets :)

BOO! Personally I liked my v1 with no bullets! I think the 6.5mm bullets are a PITA! They are hard to get apart, and hard to get together! I no longer unkook them at all I have kept my 4mm bullets in line so I can do a motor swap if needed, the 4mm bullets also make it easy to hook up the brushless rpm sensor for my eagletree.

Damn, I'm gonna pick up at least 3 of these!

Install a flip flop switch!!!!!!!

So what happens now? I ordered a refurb and a new 2200 yesterday. I got the order confirmation email. A couple hours later I see that these arent available. So whats the deal with my order will it be cancelled, put on hold until you guys start selling these again, will it be filled and shipped soon or something else? I sent an email as soon as I saw these were put on hold but have yet to hear anything.

Not really -- what was happening is that the inductance of the switch harness was boosting braking voltages so high that there was 100V spikes into the BEC circuitry...

I suppose it doesn't matter (and sorry to keep bringing this up), but I'm still trying to get my head around this. So, are you saying the wires between the switch and circuits (presumably high impedance) was picking up the EMF generated by the motor wires during braking?

MMMs = possesed. :P

Okeydokey, cheers for that info Patrick.

Cool $100- for a mmm...sweet!

Seems like an issue an optocoupler could have solved, eh?

even though these are refurbs, will they still come in the pretty box with the extra wire leads, castle link, and usb cord?

did they normally came with castle link included?


and thanks guys, you just costed me 300$ :-P

I would be happy with no switch. Never use them anyways, I just leave the esc on and plug in the battery when I want to run.

Or a switch built into the esc like the traxxas :surprised: esc's.

question.. if I have system with switch, and I will just turn it on and seal in silicone or something. So I will switch it of just by unplugging batteries - is that somehow dangerous, or is it ok? since switch is just pain in the a$$ ..

(got tekin)

If you want to eliminate the switch the best way is to cut the leads about an inch from the case, strip the ends, twist them together, Spode them and cover with shrink wrap. This doesn't void the warranty since your not soldeing on the board. if you ever feel the need to put a switch back on there should still be enough wire there to solder to