Revo Hybrid diff V3
 

The input bevel gear of V3 diff has 6mm shaft or 8mm?
The diff still has steel inner bevel gears as before?
Is it a necessary upgrade for 4s revo?
Thanks!

I believe it's 6mm.
It's not (necessarily) necessary :intello: but it sure does bulletproof the dt.
Some go with the LST/II or Muggy diffs, they are really tough and inexpensive, but slight modding of the Revo bulks is necessary to make them work ..

If you have the means to buy RCM's Hybrid diffs, do it! The LST2 diffs are fantastic, smooth and tough as nails but it is a lot of work to make them fit. And if you break a bulkhead, you gotta do it over again. If I had a bigger RC budget, I would go for the Hybrids. I use LST2 diffs and go through the trouble of fitting them in my ERBE because I'm poor :yes:

Thanks!

the inputs are 8mm. you need to buy the 8mm to revo shaft adapters.

What! Is it 6mm or 8mm of input shaft in V3? In the photo of V3, it looks like 8mm diameter cut into 6mm to me. Who could offer a confirmation? Thank you.

In my own thread about the V3 Hybrid Diffs Suicideneil wrote "Since they are included with the V3s, I wouldnt worry too much- the output and input shafts are sized to accept standard traxxas yolks". Everything should be all set for stock drivetrain gear with 6mm inputs and outputs.

On the v3 I believe standard revo outputs are used - Mike machined down the outputs.

Update: You need to buy adapters from the RCM store to be able to use your stock center E-revo driveshafts with the V3 hybrid diffs.

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...coupler&cat=44

Call me slightly retarded but i'm only 7 months into RC ownership at the age of 34. I'm just fixing up two e revo chassis for v3 hybrids. Before i buy a 2nd pair of hybrid diffs i just want to know do i need to change a connector off my standard driveshafts (the e clip bit) to connect them to the diffs or do i have to buy the coupler.
I'm talking about the output shafts or axles if they were a car.
My centre driveshafts are kershaw design dogbones.
I live in australia so i don't want to double up on postage again after already gettting one set of v3's.

Definitely 5mm the input shaft. I realized that after completing the rear diff. It is completely not compatible with the stock revo shaft or my aftermarket shaft (6mm inner diameter, 9mm bore for shaft pivot). Very sad about this. I may need adapter sleeves for my original shaft cups. By the way, my rear upper plate of G3R needs trim to fit in.

Wow, lots of crazy data here, so let me clear this up...

The V3 Hybrids can be built to run many different combos, so here we go:

V3 INPUT: The V3 Hybrid uses a true 1/8 scale diff, which has an 8mm pinion (input), and the kit includes a drive-cup so that you can run center dog-bones or CVD driveshafts. If you want to run the stock plastic slider centers, you will need to also buy the RCM V3 Aluminum adapter. Again, the V3 has an 8mm input, so you will need the special adapters if you want to run stock plastic centers.

V3 OUTPUTS: The V3 Hybrid comes with two types of output shafts, the standard 1/8 drive-cup outputs, and the special Revo outputs. If you want to run CVD axles, you will need to install the standard drive-cup outputs. If you want to run the stock plastic slider axles, you will need to install the included Revo output shafts. Again, the V3 Hybris comes with two different output options that allow you to run either CVDs or stock plastic sliders.

Pretty sure that if you want to run traxxas CVD's, you'll need to install the Revo outputs and get the Traxxas EXT cups for the CVD's.

I thought the 1/8 drive-cup outputs were longer than the Revo outputs with extended drive-cups on them, but I could be completely wrong.

Chadworkz, you are partially right about the V3 input.
It is 8mm; however,it is cut into 5mm where the drive-cup connects. At least, my newly arrived V3 is 5mm and my central 6mm cvd can't fit. Maybe the spec. or design has been changed. I decided to use the smaller cup for minimum efforts.

Please see the photo.

Ok, gotcha...I didn't know the pinions were being hexed on the end. Thanks for clearing it up.

They aren't hexed, thats just a flat spot for the set screw.

Chad i'm not seeing anything in the one diff i've assembled so far- just the dogbone outputs- there're nice for my kershaw centre dogbones but for the output (axles) well, they aren't matching up for me.
You know know my level of experience and i'm a little confused atm. Just don't want to spend money i don't have to considering my revos are into me for over $4000 australian now without running.

The kits come with everything you need to run front and rear stock shafts or dogbones/CVDs.

But, the kit only comes with the proper stuff to run center dogbones/CVDs, not stock shafts. To run the stock center shafts you will need to buy the couplers I linked earlier from the RCM store.

I found this out the hard way, and had to place another order for the couplers. Also found out the hard way that the standard Revo center CVDs don't fit the E-Revo. The only E-revo CVD's I found are the Integy ones, and they aren't going to be compatible with the V3 kits without modifiying or getting custom parts. Kershaw Designs dogbones will work, but I want CVDs.

It only comes with the parts to run center dog-bones or CVDs, but it comes with parts to run either stock wheel axles or wheel CVDs. If you want to run stock plastic centers, you will need the V3 aluminum adapters that RCM sells.

thanks guys i'll go through my kit thats assembled so far- must have missed some parts

This is the part you are looking for...they replace the output shafts that have the drive-cups built into them. They stick out of the sides of the diff and allow you to attach your stock plastic axles to them.

http://www.rc-monster.com/prodimages...haft%20web.JPG

thanks again bud really appreciate all the help you've given me on these builds

A annoying thing happened again.
The stock sliders interfere with the case of the V3.
The couplers have to be trimmed to eliminate the interference.
The V3 is not a direct drop-in modification as I heard.
I am not happy with the investment so far.

i don't mind having to modify things- its just i need ikea like instructions on how as i have little to no experience in the areas. Pretty sure i dremelled out waaay too much on my chassis and my v3 rear is either going to move or break the chassis

I mentioned in an email to RCM Mike that it would be helpful if the description of the V3 hybrids in the store mentioned that you need the RCM shaft couplers to make the V3 kits work with a completely stock Revo/E-revo.

Suggestions for revised V3 manual: comment on needing RCM shaft couplers with stock center driveshafts, go into more detail about how to mod the E-revo chassis, comment on the clearance issue between stock sliders and the V3 diff case (However, this is the first I've heard of it, sure you got everything assembled and seated right Gallagher?).

Gallagher: In the pic I posted above, the left side is what sticks out of the diff, and where the stock sliders mount...is this how you did it? There should not be any dremeling of anything to make any of it fit (except removing the little piece from the E-Revo chassis).

isuck@rc: Find a piece of foam that is pretty firm, then put it on top of the diff before you put the chassis on...the foam presses down and locks the diff into place so that it doesn't move, especially if you think you dremeled away too much material.

Yes, I did as online manual says.
I discovered the length of left end in the pic between the case is a little bit shorter than the stock and this is how the friction happens. Maybe the case is a little bit thick than the stock or the overall length (in the dimension of output shaft) of the diff inside is shorter the the stock. I also discovered there is gap in the output bearing housing between the bearing and the case. It means I may need put some shims to fill the gap up.
I don't mind to do mod. but not so much as I expect when I bought this.

Talk to Mike, if something isn't right, he will make it right.

I've mailed to him, but no responding yet. I think I need to order a v3 al coupler to accommodate the diffs to the stock sliders in order to solve the major problm. Before that I decided to dump the diffs into my shelf.

Yes, if you want to run the stock plastic center driveshafts, you need to order two V3 Hybrid couplers...I told you this, and linked you to ther parts, in a previous post.

The diffs come with the parts needed to run stock plastic wheel axles.

Yes, Chadworkz I got your point. (I mean no offense by the followings.) However, stock sliders are not my first priority. I've got no way to make the v3 work with G3R stock central rear shaft or my customized shaft. That's why I am back to the second alternative.
Indeed, the diffs come with the parts needed to run stock plastic wheel axles. However, it is not simply a "drop in" . Trimming is necessary for the couplers of stock wheel shafts, at least for me.

Hi folks,
I need some help assembling my Hybrid diffs and figured I would post in this thread.. :smile:

I am in the process of assembling the differentials, but are having problems with the mating of the ring and pinion gear.
The ring gear / carrier assembly seems to be a little crooked no matter what I do, so when I install the completed differential into the diff cases, there is a tight spot when turn the pinion by hand.
I have inspected the mating surfaces of the ring and carrier for burrs and debris, but the result is the same. I also tried aligning the screw holes in the ring gear to different holes in the carrier, but that didn't help either.

What do I need to do to fix this?

Both of the differentials are also leaking a little oil through the output shaft on the non ring gear side. I took them both apart and and reassembled them, but the leak is still there. Is this normal? Maybe I need new O-rings, but it seems strange that both diffs have a leakage on the same side, while the ring side of both diffs do not, no?

This is my first time building 8th scale diffs, so I am not sure what is acceptable and what is not.. :wink:

I am having this same issue. When I first got the diffs they were wobbling quite a bit. I emailed Mike and he said take them apart and re-assemble. I did and it seemed to fix the issue (but this was without putting the screws back in, just pressing the pieces together snuggly). Then when I put the screws back in they got crooked again. I think the screws are causing the diff cases to warp maybe? I'm not overtightening them, just making it so the screws sit flush in the countersink of the ring gear. Whatever it is the screws are causing it, because without the screws the ring gear sits perfectly level on the diff cup (at least for me)

I haven't filled mine with oil yet so I can't comment on the leaking. Somehow the O-ring isn't completely sealing I would guess?

I'm not sure what to do about the diff cases not lining up and causing a wobble. I wonder if it's a bad batch of diffs? The cases weren't molded exactly right? There's got to be a way to fix the issue. Maybe Mike can comment on what the best idea is to try to remedy the problem.

My V3 have just been sitting because I was gathering all the stuff I need for the install, so over the next week I'll sit down and play around a little more trying to get the rings gears to sit properly and not wobble.

Just to make sure, you aren't having problems with Mike's aluminum diff cases, just the plastic diff cup and the diff itself?

Yes, the alum outer diff cases are fine, it's the ring gear and plastic diff cups that aren't seating right. The ring gear will wobble when under tension of the screws, almost like the holes are misaligned by a small amount and causing the diff cup to flex. When I assemble the diff it is fine until I put the screws in, then it gets messed up with the screws tightened.

I was going to get alloy diff cups, but Mike said he didn't think there were any that are compatible. Maybe we can find one to work? Either way, I'd rather just fix the issue without spending more money.

I use shims in the side opposite to ring gear to reduce the tightness between the ring gear and the pinion. My stock revo diffs have the same problem. I shimed it and ignore it. Of coure, it is not a thorough way to solve the problem.

I'm no where near as experienced with RC as any of you but i noticed all 4 of my revo diffs -two 2nd hand 2 new do the same thing as what simple is saying as well as my v3's. i guess it's normal but i'm going to shim just incase considering thje money invested.

One of the main reasons I bought the V3's were to remedy the wobble/binding of the stock E-revo diffs. I would try out a different pair of diffs, but I don't want to spend the money when there is most likely an easy fix to get the V3 diffs assembled properly. I might buy a pair plastic diff cups from Mugen or Ofna and see if those can work. I'm fairly certain it's the diff cups causing the issue.

Also, I have a Caster F8T truggy on the way. It has the same diffs that come in the V3 kits. Once it arrives I'll pull the diffs out and see if they suffer from the same misalignment issues. Maybe the diff cups we got with the V3's are just a bad batch?

I'll email Mike again and link him to this thread. Maybe he can test a few of the diffs he has and see what's going on.