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RCM Revo v3 1/8th diff: E-revo mod requirements?
The description on the 1/8 v3 diff case and diff for the Revo says it requires some modification of the E-revo to fit. Can someone explain what this will require me to do?
Also, if I buy 2 of them will that be everything I need to swap out both diffs to 1/8th scale version? My drivetrain is stock with the stock Traxxas driveshafts. I would like to get CVD's all around but can't afford everything at once, and would rather get the diffs first. Thanks! |
I believe its just a case of removing a little nub thing that holds the stock diff in place from above (its a seperate piece of plastic on the nitro chassis, but its built into the erevo chassis). 2 minutes with a dremel and you'll be ready to rock, the kit sold by Mike has everything you'll need. :smile:
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Thanks Neil! If anyone else has anything to add I'd appreciate it, especially if you've done the mod yourself. Gonna go order them up right now.
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check the build instructions and pics in the FAQ
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OK, will do.
I did download a manual from the site, but I'm not sure if it's for the V3 kit and it didn't have any info about the E-Revo chassis mod. EDIT: Looks like a had the older V2 version of the instructions. So the kits come with drive cups for CVDs AND regular shafts for the stock driveshafts? Also, has anyone used the Losi SmartDiff with these kits? |
I installed Mike's kit and it was simple and so far so good. Well worth piece of mind in my opinion
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It is V3 instructions I wrote them...
http://rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19913 3rd article |
Thanks to your instructions Chris...my assembly went smooth...thanks!
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This is the one I had before. Do the kits still come with Hot Bodies diffs? I thought in another thread someone mentioned they might have Mugen or Ofna diffs? I don't remember really.
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I think Mike said the V3s use a smaller 1/8 type diff to save space compared to the older designs. I think.
Since they are included with the V3s, I wouldnt worry too much- the output and input shafts are sized to accept standard traxxas yolks and cvd drive cups. |
Could someone please confirm the exact diff used in this kit. I want to order aluminum inner diff cases but need to make sure I get the proper ones. So far I have heard hot bodies lightning, ofna, and mugen. Which is it in the V3?
Thanks! |
I believe mugen but the inner cases are robust no need to change....
I've tortured mine (I used to shear outputs on my V2's) and strip gears with abandon - Nothing at all has gone wrong with the v3's |
I suppose I can leave them stock for now. I thought the alloy ones would be cool and a little stronger, I just like the idea of a full metal diff, even if the benefits are only minor. Maybe right now the money would be better spent on CVDs. Would you agree?
I would also like to look into using Losi SmartDiffs. I think I'm getting way too far ahead of myself though! My brain tends to run wild with this RC stuff like everyone else here I'm sure. |
Oh yeah those sliders won't last long....
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Would you say having 1/8 diffs makes it harder on the plastic driveshafts, or just having a MMM and Neu brushless system will shred them regardless?
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Its all about eliminating the weakest link...
With the v3 my weakest link is CVD - i can sear the pins or the trans - I removed the trans from mine now so am stocking up on CVD's :) |
I'll probably end up running the stock shafts until they give then upgrade to full CVDs. Honestly I plan on keeping this setup very mild (I know, I know, you're all thinking "yeah that will last about a day!!!!")
But truly I have no interest in setting up a 60 mph speed demon. More interested in about 30 mph, focusing on cool running electronics and smooth bulletproof drivetrain. I want maintenance to be at a minimum, and the first step to that is the V3's. |
Thats actually harder on the gear train - as you have more torque and power with the lower gearing...
See how it does but the v3's are a costly but great investment. |
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