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Is this sound normal? VIDEO
I just got my E-revo today. It's in good shape, but it seems loud when I roll it. The gear mesh seems correct, has a tiny bit of play like it's supposed to. Never heard the gears so loud on my other vehicles. I can definitely feel the magnet resist rolling, which I expected for a heavy duty brushless, but not the noise.
Watch the vid if you wouldn't mind and let me know what you think. Am I just being a noob? Or is there something that should be looked at? http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...h_P1020335.jpg |
Sounds good to me.
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remove pinion and roll it. it should be quiet. with pinion it is quite normal
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I slid the motor over so that the car is free-rolling. There is still some noise coming from the transmission.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...h_P1020336.jpg |
Yes, that is quite normal... different size pinions will give different sounds, and some will be quiet.
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Quote:
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my t-maxx does the same thing. it makes the sound most if i brake hard.
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hmmm. something may be in your transmission or driveline...
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I'd say sounds normal. They are just noisy rigs for some reason.
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Really? I can understand the sounds with the first video when the pinion and spur are meshed, but the second video is has the car completely free rolling with no pinion/motor engagement and there is still intermittent grinding/binding.
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Jason,
If It's not binding or tight NO WORRYS. With all the gears and drive train parts it's gonna make noise.It's Normal. Fire it up and drive it like you stole it and have fun. |
The first vid sounds normal. The second vid sounds like the diff pinions are too tight or something.
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Well I tore it down to try and find the issue. Trans is all good. What's_nitro hit it on the head, there is some binding going on with the diff pinions. When the diff case is loose it doesn't bind, but when you tighten all the screws it starts binding again.
Either way, I'm going to be installing the V3 hybrids this weekend and the alum. diff cases wont flex or warp like plastic, plus I can shim better with the 1/8 diffs. Should solve the issue. Just needed to make sure there the transmission gears weren't beat. So yeah it sucks that I get my first monster truck and can't drive it for a week, but I got the V3's, full CVDs on the way, and when it's ready to run the drivetrain will be solid. |
:yipi: I had the same problem with my Ofna GTP. I'm sure it would be OK to drive with the screws a bit loose of you wanted to. If the screws are going into plastic then they shouldn't have loads of torque on them anyways.
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pretty much every revo/maxx diff I have messed with does not mesh well. I have a new pair right here that I just bought for a project. The are very tight and notchy feeling. I am sure if you spent some time on them you could get the much better. If you going to change the setup anyway and you just got the truck I say stick it back together and go have fun. If they mess up on you you were going to do something different anyway. I'd say that how 95% of the revos running around are.
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I debated throwing it back together, but I think I'll wait. It's only a few days and I got other vehicles I can drive.
There's other things that I can do in the meantime; a bit of soldering, program the MMM, give the truck a good cleaning (previous owner was from Wyoming, dusty as hell!), build and shim the diffs. Plenty to do. Hopefully the CVDs come quick. I was going to stick with the stock driveshafts for awhile, but then I found out you need to buy 2 more adapters to use the stock center shafts. I figured since the V3 kits came with the proper adapters for the front and rear stock shafts that it would include the adapters for the center shafts too, but they are separate. So rather than buy the adapters and then have them be useless once I got CVDs I just went straight for the CVDs. Hopefully they are a decent brand, RD Logic they are called. |
yea...traxxas diffs are tricky. take the time to shim it correctly and itll go away.
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