zero or 1/2" offset for racing?
 

Hey, I was just about to order some LPR rims for some Crimefighters I have here, and then I was wondering if zero offset rims would be better for the track? My intuition would tell me 1/2" would be the way to go, but if any of you guys with experience can chime in if you have compared the two.

Thanks.

Also, how do the pro-line Caliber tires compare to Crimefighters?

if you running revo i say half. because you can get more steering.

Zero offset will yield more steering regardless. Wider offset will yield more stability over the rough and jumps.

Depends on what truck you are planning to put them on. Some trucks are designed to use standard and some use the 1/2 offset.

I personally recommend starting with whatever the manufacturer setup offset is. Thats usually better. If you go to wide on the offset it starts to handle like a barge on the track and really looses allot of turning.

But some cars like the original losi truggy was designed to use the 1/2 offset wheels. Mose are better with the standard offset though. For the track anyway.

Yeah, on second thought, maybe 1/2 offset is better for my track, it's very challenging, with jumps, six pack, or rumble strip on every section of the track.

I actually remember my other tires that are zero offset, they are RD Logic porcupine's, and they bite so hard in the corners on grass. But they weren't are good on gravel/dirt as badlands.

I guess I will just go for these:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUVU6&P=7

My revo turned better on 1/2 offsets that 0 offsets, not for sure why, the revo's seem to respond to widening differently

narrow car = more steering but less stability

forget LPR get Proline VTR

VTR Calibers are so far the best truggy tires I ever ran

Yeah, wallot those Calibers do look good to me as well. They look like they would hook up good on hard packed track.

Do you race wallot? I am assuming you do because of the trophy... :rules:

Yes i race.

BL truggy and Nitro Buggy

Last race I won was very dry, hardpacked track and only calibers worked well. Others were running AKA cityblocks or GRP cubics.

Holeshots would work as well but they just dont last and it can get quite costly.

One buggy race I went through two sets of M3 holeshots in two 20min mains :) But it was worth bumping up :)

For truggy I keep VTR Calibers and Revolvers, and some AKA cityblocks from times before I got VTRs. And since it is electric we dont run if it rains, thats all I need.

With buggy it is more complicated and i have tons of tires but lately again Calibers and Revolvers.

Proper tires are huge part of success

Nice thing about calibers is that they are directional
Y - more traction
A - less wear (did not try it yet)

I was wondering about that, That means you can adjust the bite by turning the tires around and even mixing with the Y vs A. Kinda like running Bowties and Crime fighters, Cool.
Thanks.

Yeah, never noticed that they were bidirectional... just making sure, when you are looking down, with the truck facing forward, the Y should be 'pointing' forward right?

I wouldn't like the idea of running two different tires, yah, the idea is there, but if your truck is setup properly (weight distribution, CoG, etc) you are going to want same tires all around. IMO.

I have had the Crimefighter LPR's for a year now without wheels for them, I finally went and got some... I'm sure they will do great for the big race I have coming up in two weeks (5 Qualifiers, and a 30 min MAIN), I didn't like the way the Bow-Ties felt on the track, felt skittish at times, and just didn't have the track in the straight to put down the power I would like.

I got a bunch of parts (I was contemplating getting the E-Revo chassis to convert the 3.3, but it turned out to be too much right now... and besides, it would take to long, IMO, to swap batteries out during the MAIN), here are the parts that should improve track performance:

-RPM Rear Revo True Track A-Arm Conversion Black
-Traxxas Rocker Arm Set Progressive-3 Revo - Progressive 3
-Pro-Line 3.7 LPR 1/2 Offset Wheel White 17mm Hex
-New Teflon GTR shocks
-Set of E-Revo diffs
-and some of the new 13mm traxxas axle carriers for the front

These upgrades should provide the winning formula for me... I got 4th place at the last big race weekend, I was in 2nd place HOT on 1st place exhaust (he was an LST, btw), but I have two random shutdowns :no: during the race that took over a minute to resolve... I am pretty sure now it was the BEC, so I took it out and am now using a 2s A123 pack, but I should get something lighter.

Hoping for the best! :mdr:

yes looking down, facing forward - Y or A

two different threads on fron and rear is quite common.

bowties or similar on rear for more straight line grip and crime fighters or similar on front for more steering

Progressive 3 is not the best choice for the track... get the tubes, but stick w/ progressive 2 (normal w/ the small spacers).

VDP shock kit is a cheap nice buy for the revo/erevo as well - Good starting point for racing is 70wt oils front and rear, blue springs rear, silver front.

I would do all the steering mods on the traxxas pit section as it does help...

Tekno sway bars or tekno front, traxxas rear yeild nice results too.

70WT oil for racing? thats crazy unless on very smooth track.

try this: as thin oil as possible (300cts front 350cts rear) with hardest springs as possible. why? the goal is to have wheels on ground not in the air

soft oil helps shocks react faster and hard springs return shocks faster. and progressive shock position, in case of revo as progressive rockers as possible
excellent for broken tracks.

for smooth tracks the other way around. thick oil with very soft springs.
for many people it sounds very strange but dont judge it unless you try it.

the revo needs heavy oils to keep it from bouncing all over the place, same reason i got rid of mine, look like i was on a trampoline the whole time

bouncing is caused by heavier oils as they dont allow shocks to quickly respond.

fellow racer at his first ever race with revo had is truck bouncing all over as someone recommended him to use very heavy oil like 70WT. I told him to go for lighter oil, he said he will do it but for the next race as there is not enough time between heats :) - he had like 30 minutes :)

took my good old electric screwdriver and changed oil in his shocks in few minutes to 30WT and his suspension came to life and started to work properly.

really? i could never get my revo to handle good from 40wt all the way to 90wt, it is not a race vehicle at all, it would chassis smack worse with lighter oils the with heavier

[QUOTE=wallot;311361]bouncing is caused by heavier oils as they dont allow shocks to quickly respond.

Springs bounce.. not dampening LOL what are you even talking about.. heh..

Springs should be as light as possible only enough to hold your ride height nothing more if you have a stiff spring you will be bouncing all OVER the place on offroad tracks. Thick dampening, or heavier wt oils slow the piston down so when you come down off a huge jump with light oils you will a) bottom and break your bulk heads or b) bounce if you have too stiff of a spring for the oil you are using. This is pretty simple man.. heavy oil will absorb the landing a TON better... most every track out there has huge jumps now so the only reason you wouldn't be running a 60-70wt oil in a revo is your track is FLAT and or very very tiny bumps... but even then if you have too hard of a spring your truck will just bounce around.. heh think of a pogo stick if that helps you any. Also the revo shocks don't work with as thin of oil as the truggy and large big bore style shocks do so forget what you think you know and relearn before you give out much more of this "information". You can get away with softer springs in the revo than the blue, silver combo I mentioned (with the VDP kit), BUT you need to change your oils as well. I beat truggys and I mean 95% of Intermediate level (sorry I'm only a year or so in so I'm not to pro level yet) Anyway Trust me when I say the best possible racing combo for a e-revo is 70wt f/r with blue rear springs sliver front springs and the #2 pistons on the Variable rate kit. I have tried EVERY combo from 40 to 80wt with every spring combo in all variations. The only thing I ever do is drop to 60wt in the rear on tracks with only small bumps, the rest stays the same and my truck doesn't "bounce" all over the place. Keep in mind with a truggy/buggy you can get away with slightly lower wt oils as well do to only having to worry about beating up a chassis, not breaking bulk heads on every landing like you do with a revo.

Here is some old video(s) as proof.. this was last year so my skills have improved :) 1 youtube, 1 on photobucket


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vP4l4QEMB2Y

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...inh/th_008.jpg

Yeah, I happen to already be running 70wt fr/rr with blue springs rear, silver front... it was pretty dialed in as far as suspension went for my track.

Wallot, I am going to have to agree with stum, lighter weight oils just don't work with the Revo I have found.

Here is a couple pics of my track, not very good, and not taken from the drivers stand.

There is alot of rough surface on this track, with a little of everything, literally, rumble, six packs, banks, negative banks, cavern jumps, double jumps, triple jumps, it's a very technical track, makes you sweat!

I am also going to get this little light weight rx batt instead of the 2s M1 pack I am using now.

http://aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=6764