Running 4S on a Mamba Max - Neccessary Mods
 

I will be running a 36-50-3300kV 5mm shaft v2 Medusa, if the deal goes through! on my Mamba Max, going to have to pick up a fan as well, any cheap ones?

I know I need a External BEC, and I have the 10amp, castle BEC, and I will just remove the red pin, and tape it, so if I need to use it on something else, it's always there.

Will I need a cap? I read a thread, where someone (I think BrianG) recommended a 2700uF Cap I believe, and this was the link:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P10286-ND

Anything else that's recomended?

Let me know guys!
I'll be using my 2 2s 7.4V 5000mAh Turnigy's and my 2 2S 7.4V 5000mAh TrueRC Hardcased on this.

you dont need a cap, but it may help keep your amp spikes down.

And if I didn't use it, what are the consequences? :)

heat issues most likely.

you will explode

Oh joyful.

Anyone wanna recommend a large fan for the MM? And not a 120x120.... mike..

I recently re-wired my CRT.5 which uses an MM and Lehner 1930/7 on 3S FlightPower 25C 3700mah Lipo.

Originally, I had it wired up with a Novak HV-Maxx capacitor. I believe the specs are 25V and 2700 uF.

I am also using a Castle BEC.

After my re-wiring, I forgot to install the capacitor, so I was running the same setup without the capacitor (shorter wires though from motor to ESC and some other stuff though).

My temperatures were noticeably warmer. I never temp'd the ESC before, since the ESC would at most get very warm but never too hot for me to touch. Now, it hits 130*F in only 4-5 minutes. I have stopped running it for now unti I re-install the cap.

Oh, wow, and you're only using 3S... definitely will use a cap, how do I wire it up?

If I toss two, or three caps on, will it reduce the temps more?

I ran a MM and feigao 8l on my hyper 7, no caps. just a ubec. And I had a 25mm fan behind it. It didnt get awfully hot, but it didnt die either. I did so on 5s and 4s

Sell it and get a MMM. Or wait for the MMPro to be available.

25mm......
How about those Novak fans that come with a Novak Power Boost Kit?

Those are pretty small, and I have one on my MM in the Rustler, that I'd like to keep there.

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

I would, but I need it for my Evader! :oh:

And no Mike, I'm not going to put a MMM2200kV combo into my Rustler, like what you did! :party::whistle:

Just run 3s with the 3300. 4s will be too much for the esav.

Here's where I got my last batch of fans from. The price has went up slightly since then, but still cheaper then the Novak.

http://www.buyextras.com/dc5vfaforlan.html

Also, get a servo extension and pull the red wire from it instead of the MM. Pulling the wires sometimes damages the connectors so when you go to put it back in. It doesn't "Click" and stay like it should.

Send me a pm with you address and I will ship you a cap.

Oh wow, sweet.

BL_RVO, I think I'm going to be sticking to 4S, with maybe 2WD, but will try 4WD at first.

If I dont' like it, I'll pick up a couple 3S packs, I don't want to not use 4 2S packs..

God I am counting down the days and saving the $$$.

I used to run a MM esc in an old conversion. I did like what was mentioned before run a computer fan to the side of it. Didn't temp. it but it did the job. It still runs I believe(sold it to a buddy.

I was thinking about the MMPro.. but I already have the MM, why not put it to good use? :)

BrianG, or any electronic wizard, or anyone who knows what kind of capacitor I need, can I use Mike's from RCM's store?
These?
http://www.rc-monster.com/brushlesscontrollers.php?pg=4

Or could I go with the 2700uF and get better ratings, or could I go higher uF's, and get lower temps, I'm so lost right now..

Thing I worry about is your poor esav drivetrain. I don't think it'll like a beast of a motor spinning at almost 49k rpm...

It is better to use several smaller uF caps in parallel, rather than one large cap- better heat dissipation and responce time to voltage spikes.

That said, a total uF value of about ~5000 shouldnt be exceded, lest you poop yourself at the giant sparks that also eat away at your battery & esc plugs... :lol:

Solder them in parallel to the esc's battery wires, + leg of the cap to + wire, and - to -, close to the esc as possible (strip some insulation away with an exacto blade etc).

You've lost me, as I'm an idiot, how many and what uF caps would you recommend?

And a diagram of the drawing? Sorry, I'm a retard..

As far as the ESav's drivetrain, I was thinking about switching the ESav arms for the Sav X arms, as well as the dogbones, this will be a time consuming project, about a couple hours, with money I don't have.....yet :neutral:

Thanks guys for the help so far!

The single hvmaxx type cap would work fine, but a couple of those ones mike sells (in your link) would be better.

Im at work so cant do a diagram, and havent got any of my IE favourites to reference, but hopefully someone will help you with that or a photo.

Neil: love the new avatar. It looks like something from the movie "Watchmen"

I will try out the one or multiple, once I get a diagram :)

MS Paint to the rescue.

If you had two caps, you'd just twist the + legs together then solder to the power wire, same deal with the - legs. You will ofcourse have to insulate any bare wire or cap leads to prevent a short; keep any fly leads short as possible and mount the cap to the esc case with some doubled sided sticky pads etc.

I love you Neil, thanks.


I'm assuming the longer leg is positive?

Awkward...

Man love! lol... still awkward!

You guys would do that :no:




:lol:

You said it, not me...

nope, usually the shorter is the negative. The side with the white stripe with the little rectangles or black stripes inside it is the same side as the negative lead. JUST like neils picture

:yes:

Yeah, longest leg is positive, and shortest leg is negative...