Thought's about the C-50 serie's
 

Some may know that the Hacker C-50 maxx motor isn't the only C-50 by hacker.

http://www.hackerbrushless.com/motors_c50.shtml

I'm looking at the C-50L to try in my maxx, since i'm running 16 cell's and want a 5 mm shaft. Hacker couldn't get the normal rotor without the milled down part, so I have to find a new one. This seem's like a nice motor to try as it's the same size as the C-50 maxx.

If possible I want to try the C50 12L with 2030 rpm per volt.

Why not a feigao or wanderer you ask? I'm looking for quality. The difference in winding's of the c-50 maxx and feigao 9l are huge. Way better quality. Since I love my current c-50 maxx I want to try some other hacker motor. So if anyone has input on them, please share.

If it doesn't work out however, i'll be buying a 2250 probably.

I was going to try these motors out, but never got around to it. The c50 series are really nice motors. I have 2 c50 maxx motors in my emaxx and like them.

Aircraftworld.com has the 13L and 14L in stock. http://www.aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=2251

I can't say alot about the hacker. I have owned a couple lehner. Maybe you could look at one of them. a 1940 around the kv you got would go good on 16 cells.

I have run the 14l nemisis on a truck as well. I like the xl motors better on my trucks.

A little off-topic, but can "outrunner" type motors be used in trucks as long as they have similar kv/voltage parameters? I imagine cooling probably wouldn't be as efficient...

Sneeck, have you thought about the hacker c-50xl? much more torque, power, and runtime if you get the right one.

Don't know if any of you knew him, but there was once a guy called HiAmplidude; and back in the day he was the pioneer of the brushless maxx. He used all sorts of hacker motors, but finally ended up with a c50 8XL.

Theres some info on his truck here,

http://rcnuts.hiamplidude.com/dual_b-maxx.htm

It really is worth a look round his site, www.rcnuts.com . Although some of the stuff is old now, this guy really knew what he was doing - and sneeck theres lots of info on hacker motors on there.

I remember HiAmp. He did alot of neat stuff. To bad he disappeared from rc. I remember when he was working on his emaxx with 9xl, shultze 40.160, and 30 cells. I believe he hit 60+ with it. I was a total noob back then with my badass Hacker 8s on 8 cells. How things have changed.

Speaking of moldy bl setups. Does anyone remember a dual Lehner setup someone posted a vid of. I think it may have been promod, not really sure. In the vid the truck was running a race bomb chassis with cells all piled up. He did this wicked burnout in his driveway. Also scared the crap out of a little boy in the next yard.

It was promod, he was around and beginning and is still going strong. Hiamplidue was/is the sickest man around rc. I can't imagine what he'd of done with lipo technology.


Outrunners can be used, but not for a normal application. A few crawling guys use them since they are much more efficient at lower rpm's I suppose.

The hacker motors are really nice, ever since they faded out of the controller scene fewer people have been buying them. They are still up to par with the lehner's and aevox's of our brushless world, and made in germany likewise. The c50L and XL are nice, since once you get the 5mm shaft in, they are great, cool running motors. Too bad they only made 1/10th controllers for cars now (very nice by the way).

I saw some posts of Highamp on maxxtraxx.com a few months back.

Squee,

Simply because the spec's of the xl say 20 to 32 cell's. So runing it at only 16 isn't going the get the power from the motor that it has. But I talked to coolhand about this and he said it wouldnl't be a problem.

8xl it is.

Hiamp is still on maxxtraxx now and then.

Maxxdude,

Thank's for the site.

yea sneeck, on a low cell count you will be able to gear higher for more speed will still having oodles of torque and having better runtime because of better efficiency and less amp draw.

Gotta love brushless.

How would the C50xl compare to the Wanderer 8xl? By the price difference I would think it must be way more power.

maybe a little more power, but the c50 series is definatly faster (and no trade off for power).

im pretty sure the power difference would be mynute (sp?) since the motors have the same kv and the only real difference is the can.

Higher quality can, better magnets and rotor possibly, could make a world of difference in efficiency. They have the same initial kv rating, although the feigao loses quite a lot under load.

I read on about the Schulze 18.61 and the C50 Series,? I am a newbee and still try to wonder what I bought I have a C50 14.4 maxx , I still dont Know how to set up the Schulze it has some little tiny switches in the rear of the controller in white with numbers, Am i supposed to switch those to work with my emaxx reciever stock or do i buy something else, it is wired with gp3300 two seven nimh packs in series when I plug it in it makes a strange sound, the motor moves slightly,do i need to buy something else please help.

Do you have a pic of your system on truck?
It makes it sound like you don't have it plugged into the receiver.
What are you running for bec power?

have to load some pics i plugged it into the reciever of the old traxxas reciever 2215 traxxas i also have a jr reciever, hmm sounds like i need a bec power what would that be ??

Yes you need either a receiver pack or bec. Mike sell's these in his store.

Did you try giving it a bit of throttle when you pluggen the batt's in? Sound's like the throttle isn't neatral and it want's to move. You can set this on your radio.

I've seen a C50 10L on 16 cells and it is seriously fast and powerful! I ran my 7XL on 16 a long side and it wasn't any competition (it was when I hopped up to 18 though :D).

Great motors, although not the best when they come to efficency I thought, if your thinking of maxing out the RPM.

schulze 18.61K is a piece of sh*t, I'd rather get the 9920 from Mike.. I purchased about 4 of these 18.61K a few years ago to power up my Dual 1930-5 Hi-Amp. on dual 18 cells... back then.. that was my first real brushless setup... and all of this was recommended to me by FineDesignRC's Chris Fine. Guess what.. they all fried.. and I sent them all back... I wanted to buy some of those c50 also, but I thought they were the same back then.. Icare-rc has some of thos c50's XL.. they're only a few bucks more than the B50's...

well i guess everbody has there opinion on certain items upon experience this is why and how i found this great forum, but after spending the money on the hacker and schulze i might as well use them as a learning experience to do what AQWUT did which was fry them so here i go, gotta go to RC Moooonster to purchase what i need to start, lets hear what i gotta get so i can purchase and fry LOl.

You will need CVD's, a steel idler, a UBEC, center dogbones, and probably diff cases and cups. Don't fry it....Sell it....They bring good money on Ebay so it won't be a waste. You might loose a few bucks reselling it but at least you didn't lose it all!

The guy that was linked to early on in the thread was ahead of his time. Or ahead of Castle Creations anyway.

http://rcnuts.hiamplidude.com/DSC03443.JPG

Note the method used to hold it together. Just found it a bit ironic.

OUCH I heard of craftmanship but not only was there tye raps to hold it together but looks like vise grips while he was at it,,, if only he found rcmonster he wouldnt have done that ..... i prefer snapped and bashed oh yeah emaxx mash

Looks fine to me... I don't think the zip tie is performing and significant duty there... I like the screw job. :D

thanks for the ideas squee will get some of those

I think the cabletie is just routing the cables. The repair actually looks really tidy. Made me think about doing it with a smaller screw for my 380-8t thats fell apart completely.

the screw would make me worry about the windings a little...

Windings are not usually that close to the endbell but it would be good to be very careful before drilling...

The only concern I would have is not getting and metal bits in the motor from the drilling and tapping.

I have drilled and tapping a couple endbells but they were removed from the motor... so no issues there.

From my understanding, the LMT's are??? Interesting!