Need a new BL-Controller for my Savage
 

Hi

My BK Warrior 12020 controller is dead... :036:
Now I need a new controller for this setup:
- Savage
- BK Wanderer 20 XL/7
- 16 cells

What controller would you recommend? A reverse mode is a must have!

The only unsatisfying thing with the 12020 was the fast and hard change-over from full-brake to reverse.

Does someone uses a MGM controller for a similar setup?

-- Dave

Cant you send it back to bk, since it will be alot cheaper (I think) than splashing out for a new one?

"send it back to bk" - I don't know...? It was a little bit wet.

http://www.camenisch.ws/forenbilder/...ucht_klein.jpg

-- Dave

The MGM 16016 seems like a good option for you. If that controller got wet, I highly doubt bk will have anything to do with it.

Thats Bad, how old is it?

Whoa! Fried shrimp anyone?

Went snow-bashing?

Or through a puddle?

Sad story... Snow killed the controller. I forgot to install the skidplate and the snow was a little bit too deep. Shit happens. The controller was only 3 month old.

Which controllers are you running?
Is there anyone with a MGM Compro?

-- Dave

Maybe you'd consider a 9920? Or just get the same controller you had? It wasnt the controllers fault it went bye bye.

If it was running fine before hand why not just replace it for another 12020, although I'm still pretty sure Bk would only charge you the cost of making a new one.

As when i broke my 9920 it was beyond repair so they just made me pay for a new one at a reduced price (90$), worth a try anyway.

That's the point: I was not very happy with the controller. As I wrote in my first post: "The only unsatisfying thing with the 12020 was the fast and hard change-over from full-brake to reverse."

When the controller is in forward/brake/backward mode and I do a fullbrake then the trigger on the remote control is in full-backward position. And exactly that happens after braking: the motor goes fullspeed backwards. That's really a stressfull moment to the drive train! It would be much better if the controller would be waiting until the trigger is back in neutral position before changing from brake to backward mode.

Do you have the same problem with the 9920?

-- Dave

i got my 9920 wet (didnt know it until later) and bk replaced it for free.

Mt enthusiast has the mgm 16016 and a 7xl and says he is real happy with it. Drop him a email or pm. Just tell him coolhand sent you. ;)

my MGM160 has the brake/reverse problem, but the new ones fix that. I can get mine up to par too, but I haven't sent it back yet. Metal man got his updated and so did GriffinRU. My nephew actually drove through a deep puddle by mistake. I was afraid I was going to have a replacement cost, but once the controller dried out, it was fine.

Going into full reverse if you keep holding the trigger is exactly what it is supposed to do. Just release the trigger when the truck has stopped, it's easy. It won't go into reverse if the truck is still rolling.

Just release the trigger.

btw, I never use full brake anyway, it would flip my trucks over. (set EPA)

NO, I would expect that the controller acts like in this description (it's from MGM):

CAR mode forward / backward [A1]:
If the car is at standstill, then by moving the throttle from neutral the car will go backward or forwards. If the car is moving then by moving the throttle backwards the car will brake. The brake is proportional, that means the further the throttle is from neural the more intensive the brake is. The intensity of braking in the max throttle position may be set in parameter "B". When braking the car will stop, and not start moving backwards until you move the throttle to neutral and then again backwards. Connected braking lights are turned on when braking.

-- Dave

Ah, I see. That's the "double throw reverse"! Some ESCs have this. They only go into reverse if you go to neutral first.

I prefer the "single throw" types, such as the EVX or the BK controllers. If you found this describtion on a MGM product, I would guess they'll act that way.
The downside is well known: if your car is still rolling, and you want to brake again, it goes into revers too. That's why I prefer the single-throw types!

DAF

They change the programming some to. I don't know if it is a double throw any more. It may still be a setting option in the controller.

I would actually disagree with MGM's statement about this. Just this weekend I was doing speed runs with my Rustler and MGM Compro 12012 (newest version as far as I am aware) with 4s Lipo and a Feigao 540 12s. Since its BEC is putting out the full battery voltage (I know, it's strange) I have to use an external BEC. The XUS Hobby UBEC induces glitching, so my range isn't the greatest. Anyways, to maximize my acceleration distance I had to brake as late as possible. Most of the time when I hit full brake when going full throttle, it resulted in the tires spinning in full reverse while my car was going 50mph! Obviously that isn't a good thing, and was very annoying. I've also noticed that the MGM is finnicky in general. Sometimes going from a low throttle position to neutral causes it to do the brake thing (no "freewheel") like the older versions did, even though I have it set so that it will "freewheel".

Now to the likes: fully adjustable acceleration and braking, and a LVC for Lipos that kicks in at 3.1v/cell with a hard or soft cutoff, or no cutoff at all.

Hmmm, metalman, the LVC is nice. Very nice indeed. But the going into reverse is bad! Might tear your rusty in two one day :026: And the BEC giving the batt voltage...well, what can I say. Strange.

Freewheel is a must for me, too.

Thank you for the honest report!

Sounds as if your controller is in Boat mode:

"BOAT mode forward / backward [A2]: ...The direction of motor revolutions is reversed immediately upon moving the throttle the opposite way." (MGM)

-- Dave

I doubt it, Attila, like I know our Metalman.
This problem was mentioned by other users, too.

Anyway, did you get the double-throw VS single-throw idea?

I was in contact with BK yesterday. I asked them about the "brake/backward-problem". Here is what BK answered (short version):


"Breaking is a short-out of the motor. When you are breaking all phases of the motor are under positiv voltage. That's also the reason why MGM controllers are burning some times.
When you hold the trigger in break position for more than 1.8sec. the stress peaks are so high that when switching to forward mode the motor could blow up.
That's the reason why 99% of the (racing) drivers like the behaviour of the BK controllers. Nobody would ever break for more than a second."


Ok, maybe a "racing driver" would not break longer than a second. But I driving a Savage and I am bashing for fun and not entering a race contest...

-- Dave

How does a person supposed to stop the truck at 50mph in less than a sec?

They don't!

I'm pretty sure it was in car mode. With my previous MGM controller, I ran in boat mode and it wasn't good. The braking had a whole different feel.

Has anyone ever had (or heard of) problems that a MGM controller was burning (or melting)?

(BK said: "That's also the reason why MGM controllers are burning some times.")

-- Dave

@metalman:
I have read the manual of the MGM controller. Maybe you should doublecheck your settings. I couldn't believe that your controller is in car mode and act like this.

-- Dave

I will say BK sales people are not correct...

If BEC on MGM controller outputs full battery voltage, then BEC part is damaged. See my earlier report on MGM's BEC failure.

As far as updated versions of MGM ESC, I haven't had such problem yet. But I was not using BEC from the very start either (memories of blown servos...).

You should be able to apply brakes as long as you want, motors back EMF should be well below FET's voltage limit. But if you have noisy/glitches in receiver part then you signing for disaster yourself. Use good power connectors and good UBEC (most times bad capacitor on UBEC or ESC part can create problems).

Artur

I have taken the MGM out of my Rustler for now, since I have to use an external BEC (that causes glitching), which is bad for speed runs. If I do put it back into my Rustler, I can try again. It might be used in my 1/8 buggy, but if it is, the brake strength will be pretty low (along with EPA lowered).