Suggestions needed
 

So I bought a Emaxx complete roller with Tx/rx for $80 shipped. I bought some hopups to upgrade it when it got here. Well I thought I was being scammed as I didn't see the Emaxx until 2 months later. So in the meantime, I traded a guy my Neu Rustler for his MMM powered and pretty hopped up Emaxx. Then the other Emaxx came in.

So I have 2 Emaxx's now.
List of hopups I have:
GA 7075 bulks
HardCore Racing bulks
2 sets of Proline Powerstrokes
1 set of Ofna rear 1/8 shocks
Single motor plates
1 set of Red Tube Links
1 set of Ti skids
1 set of Traxxas 17mm spline hexes
Plenty of Truggy tires
Set of RPM shock towers

Powerplants:
MMM
CC/Neu 2200kv motor
1515/1.5D/F

Things I'll probably need:
CVD's
1/8 diffs
UE Knucklehead towers


I'll need one more ESC and 2 receivers to keep both. And I want to get a GorillaMaxx G4 chassis for one.

My question is what would you guy do? Any suggestions? A basher and a racers? Sell one and the extras? A racer only? A Basher only? Any other sugestions....

A basher and a racer for me.

is it the new or old e-maxx? if it is the new one and you only need 1 maxx, i'll be willing to take it off your hands for $100 shipped.

I'll keep that in mind scarletboa.

They both are 3905 maxx's.

Any suggestions on usage of parts and possible parts I should be looking into?

bulks... lots of bulks...:lol:


I had a tekin 2250 in mine...
full RPM arms/hubs/truetrack, they work great once you make some copper rings to hold the piviot balls in

center CV shafts, the TRX ones are good:yes:

aftermarket hingpins:whistle:


I kinda wish I wouldn't have sold mine with all of the $$ I had into it... I just saw it up on RCT a week or so again:lol:


pick up one of these and a small pipe cutter or hacksaw at menards for <$5

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...c/IMG_0301.jpg

I have ALU bulks for both.

Will get CVDs...

RPM arms too, I broke 6 before I finaly bought the full set...

Rear shock tower upgrade is a must!

Yes! I have a set of RPM's but I'm looking into some Knuckleheads.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...P1010002-1.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...r/P1010003.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...r/P1010004.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...r/P1010005.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...P1010006-2.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...P1010007-2.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...P1010008-2.jpg

Looks like a turd to me...

LST diffs, rcm diff outputs, rcm 8mm adapters for the center traxxas sliders. Rpm arms are a must, as are the al bulks. Leave the bumpers on. Some addl bracing from the shock towers to the center chassis is always good.

Or sell em both and get a lst... And run it stock, less breakages than a done up maxx.

And get out of my basement, you are scaring the kids. Put some pants on for pete's sake.

sell the powerstrokes- $100+ a set on fleabay. Ofna(supermaxx) shocks can be had for $20 a pair or less.

RPM everything. I'd sell all the bulks and get FLM's and ofna gears.

Build one solid basher.:yes:

And for Allah's sake put some pants on:no:

What can your budget afford? I'd have 1 basher and 1 racer ( that is if you race ). If not then one fully bombed racer. As noted by everyone, rpm gear, shock towers and upgraded drivetrain are stand out points.

One thing i never liked personally, is it didn't have a wing. I forgot the name of the maker but that after market one mounts behind the shock tower and I hear the mounting points on the bulk gets bent from bad landings.

I'm glad I don't know what you look like, there's too many references to your lack of pants.

Pants don't fit, thats why I never wear them, sorry...


Hmmm... So maybe sell one and make a great basher, or sell both and get a LST(which I have been wanting)...

Question: The guy told me it has GA bulks on it. Did GA's come with bulkhead braces that said MaxxTraxx? I remember the site back in the day, I couldn't remember tho...

That poor 1515 1.5d/f needs some lovin. I hope thats not your solder job on the MMM.

Whats wrong with the Neu? I had to shave some fins down to get a better fit for the gearing. I then proceeded to remove most of the black...

Solder jobs are solid! Just need some heatshrink.

My 2cents
 

I liked my Maxxes when I had them, but they are nothing compared to the LST2 for duarability and handleing regardless what you spend on the maxx.

Keep the ESC's and motors and sell the rest and finance a bitchin' LST2, You will be happier in the long run for sure !

Hey, here you go - instead of G-maxx: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23702

Ok. So I have a couple runs on this Maxx and I'm thrilled with the way its handling and running. Its geared for 45mph and its doing every bit of 44mph, GPS verified. The suspension is smooth and feels nice. This tires are really great, they slide on concrete but grab in the grass and dirt. After 30 minutes of running, the LVC kicked in. Temps were 108F on batts, 115 ESC, 128F motor.

I'm running it with the following:
3905
1515/1.5D/F
MMM
4s Hyperion 5500 35c
Single motor plate
BlueBird waterproof servo
Proline Powerstroke Shocks
Ti skid plates
GA Bulks
Losi Premount XTT tires
Traxxas Spline 17mm adaptors

Differential Ratio: 2.8461538461538463
Transmission Ratio: 1.8333333333333335
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 68
Pinion Tooth Count: 24
Total Voltage: 14.8
Motor KV: 2700
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.8
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 60
Motor Coil Resistance: 0.004
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.83 : 1
Total Ratio: 14.78419 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 18.22 inches (462.82 mm)
Rollout: 1.23:1
Total Motor Speed: 39312 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 45.88 mph (73.7 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 2656.22
KT constant: 0.5 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: 0.16 ft-lbs
Final Torque: 2.31 ft-lbs
Final Power: 888 watts (1.2 HP)

Nice setup, good stuff. if I may suggest, if its all going well and fun on 4s geared that way change nothing but throw 5s in there. Its no fun if you can control it properly JMO lol

I recognize the PowerStrokes in the package. :mdr:

You are correct sir! I have your and another set that came with this 3905.. so I have 2 sets.

If you're going to bash a maxx hard with Ti skids, you're going to shear the 3mm screws off the bottom of the bulk at some point. I trashed 2 sets of bulks trying to get them out before going to larger 6/32 stainless screws and never had a problem bending, stripping, or shearing a screw off again. In fact I saved a couple bulks by going to the larger size. Although if you keep the plastic chassis and braces that would probably break first.

So you drilled and tapped the holes for 6/32 screws?

Yep, drilled and tapped all the holes on the bulks for 6/32 on my T-Maxx, including shock towers. 6/32 isn't that much bigger than the 3mm and will still leave plenty of meat around the screw on the bulk, yet give you more shear strength. If you're going to do it though, get stainless screws, otherwise may not be much of an upgrade if using low quality stuff.

I also bashed hard, lots of jumps with bad landings and more. The Hardcore Ti skids would shear 3mm even if they were stainless. Then I found easy and free access to 6/32 stainless screws and realized they were the perfect size. And after changing all my hardware to them my truck was Bombproof, hingepins not withstanding. Just figured I'd warn you before launching the truck for a nosedive or landing hard on the backend.

Those are GA bulks if they have maxxtraxx on them. I have some 3mm ga titanium skid that have maxxtraxx laser etched on them. If they have the GA engraved on the sides of the bulks they are the more expensive 7075 bulks if not they are 6061 billet. Good buy if you ask me. As far as running ti skids NEVER! and I mean NEVER! run stainless steel, titanium or aluminum hardware in any rc especially on the skids. Always run 12.9 screws from tonys screws or whoever else sells them. Stainless is brittle and will tend to shear when impacted, in no way is 6/32 stainless stronger than a good grade 12.9 metric 3mm screw. Titanium and aluminum screws suck also. Gorillamaxx uses 12.9 grade screws that are plated ever wonder why? because they are the strongest you can get period!

So my question is now:
Gorillamaxx G4 chassis or (2 more) 2s Hyperion G3 VX 5500's?

Chassis.

Teaser?
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/CIMG2593.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/CIMG2594.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/CIMG2595.jpg
That g-maxx chassis is so choice, absolutly awesome design!

How do your lipos fit in the chassis with the straps?

I'll be using 1 servo, I may mount my Rx over the other for equal weight. I'll be running 2 2s Hyperions like mentions above. I have 2 already, I was thinking about getting 2 more, but the chassis may come first.
I'm pretty sure I'll stick with the stock arms and knuckles, they are my weak points right now. My driveshafts will get replaced with the Traxxas CVD's when I start popping them. But for now, they are fine. The 1.5D isn't a complete torque monster like the 1Y.

Looks like I need to order my chassis!! How's G-Maxx shipping?

G4 chassis is on the way!

I am not sure the recieverbox will fit over the servo hole with out drilling new holes in the box. I like the trx box water proof box alot and probably putting them on my other Supermaxx trucks. The 2 3s flightmaxx 5000mah batts are a little snug width wise but I am sure the 2s batts will fit fine. I am also going to put some good velcro on the bottom to help keep them in place. Jumping or some heavy bashig might dislodge them with just the straps. If I didnt have the racerx with setbacks I would run rpm truetracs with a monoblock. I am using a 1.5 d for my high speed g-maxx project.

I was going to mount the Rx only, no box.

Hopefully my G4 gets here soon, I want to try doing something special to it before mounting it.

I may go ahead and order some Flightmax packs as well, 2s 5000 30C...

I've got 2 gorillamaxx setups, and both times i've ordered, i got my stuff in 4 days. the whole build took me about 4 hours.

they include good instructions, but the website pics are also good if you get stuck as they have tons of angles.

(my first build, i had a little trouble with the steering, but the site pics cleared it up)

I might get a third for this winter. i just got another e-maxx roller. :lol:

have fun! :party::party:

Awesome! I should be here today or tomorrow. Once I get it, I'll examine it closely and then hand it off for something special... :gasp:

Jeff- Thats good to here. I don't think I'll have trouble with the assembly. I'm having a lot of run with it the way it is. With that said, It does roll over entirely too much on the street. It has an excellent turning radius and just flips right over at almost anything about 8mph... It might be because of the XTT tires are pretty grippy on the concrete. Hopefully the G4 will cure this problem.

I'm running this servo:
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=8739
I must say, it's blowing my expectations away! Very strong and pretty quick. No problems turning the tires. I'm only using a single servo. For some reason, they don't like being used in a y-harness for the double servo setup, or on the stock traxxas rx. They fight and glitch like crazy, but a single servo is great!

The G4 handles alot like a truggy imo. i used extra heavy dual rate springs because of the amount of aluminum i was using, but i can't flip it on concrete even with soft crimefighters. it just has a great center of gravity in it's design. even when i have the suspension jacked up, it'll slide it's ass end out, but it woun't flip. :yes:

i built an FLM-Maxx last year, and i hated how much that truck rolled all the time even when it was slammed. the G4 is just so easy to make handle well.

it's probably my favorite truck. :yes:

one other thing. don't be shocked at the size of the package from GorillaMaxx. it ships in a well protected flat envelope that fits in most mailboxes. :gasp: it's very compact. :yes:

make sure you post pics of your build when you're done. :yes:

Awesome! I'm very glad I didnt go with the FLM now. I am a basher but most of it is street running and in my yard. My biggest concern was the flipping, which IS why I chose the G4 over FLM. I like that it handles like a truggy and make the ass end slide out when needed. Also the track is very close and I do frequent there.
I'll be running stock arms, knuckle, diffs, and shocktowers for now. Just my Bulks and turnbuckles are ALU. Skids are Ti.

I'll be taking before, during and after shots. I'll post all the way through.

Jeff, do you have any video of the G4 running?

i don't have any video of the G4 yet. i'll try to get some done this weekend when i do some speed runs on the 8ights. even with it all aluminum, if i gear it high enough i can still shred phaltliners with little effort. i was kinda shocked when i didn't really lose any top end when i switched everything over but i guess the law of physics kinda says it's effected more on acceleration than top end. funny, cause i never noticed it there either. the 1515 is just sooo freakin powerful on 6S, it's crazy.

you'll want to switch to the aluminum towers or atleast to RPM asap...i broke set after set of the stockers.... it got to be more expensive than just modding it to begin with. the a-arms i've never broken to the best i can recollect...i guess i've been lucky there. :whistle::party:

I'm running the 1515/1.5D on 4s and I'm sure I can safely gear it up to 50-55mph right now, its pretty darn strong and powerful as well. The thing is running ICE cold. I'm quite sure it has much to do with running LPR tires and the Hyperion G3 VX packs too.

I have been thinking about getting Knucklehead towers from UE. Light, strong and higly adjustable. I just got rid of a set of RPM tower with a Emaxx roller I sold... :lol:

yeah those RPM towers might work well if i can get some flex out of them. i broke 4-5 stockers last winter because traxxas' plastic gets really brittle in the cold. we stay pretty chilly from oct-april so it made sense to just get the aluminum at the time but i will try the rpm if i can save a few bucks.

here's a few pics of the G4:

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...t/HPIM5560.jpg

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...t/HPIM5568.jpg

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...t/HPIM5571.jpg

EDIT: almost forgot.....you can't go wrong with UE. if they were a little less expensive i would have definately gotten them.