Motor / Esc for RC8T-e
 

Hi all,

I'm planning on buying a RC8T-e real soon. What motor and Esc are recommendable for this truggy?

I'm not planning on spending a fortune (don't know how much is needed) so a used (but still in good shape) one is also fine. I do want some 'quality' motor and Esc like Neu / Tekin / Pletti (but this is expensive right) etc. I've seen TONS of motors and Esc for sale here but there's so much to choose from that I'm kinda lost. Some examples would be much appreciated.

Another question : Does anyone have a link to a decent write up on how the 'higher voltage / lower temps' thing works, sounds all very interesting.

Thanks guys!!

ps. I currently run a Rustler VXL on 2S and a Savage Flux on 4S. I currently have six Turnigy 5000mAh 20C packs with TRX leads. But if you can give me some links for nice LiPo's I will consider buying them also.

EDIT : The ''PUI'' formula (P = Watt / U = Voltage / I = Amps) P = U / I
So if I keep P the same with a higher U then I will be less. That's the whole trick ?

I am building RC8T for a fellow racer and I will use RX8 + CC2200kv motor for 4S
For 5S i would get RX8 + Neu 1415 or 1515 1700kv motor

I am very happy with my 1415 1700kv motor in my mugen.

Thanks. I think that 4S will be enough. I currently drive the Savage Flux on 4S and it's all the power I need, besides the Savage Flux is heavier then the RC8T-e if I'm not mistaking.

I send some people (with stuff for sale) a PM, so I'll just wait to here their prices :). I have to say that this Tekin drives very smooth. My MMM is stuttering like crazy when I want to drive real slow.

With battery choice it is not just about power. Higher voltage systems run cooler.
Neu 1415 - 2200W. If you run it on 4S it ould draw more amps than on 5 or 6S -> same power but more heat :)

Yes T8 is smooth as it is sensored. however with reliability of T8 motors I would go for neu or CC motor. Just to many broken rotors. We got quite a few T8 motors and all failed with original rotor and now even few with the new style rotor.
Also T8 motor is quite heavy compared to Neu 1415.

Hi there. I've read about that rotor problem before, doesn't seem like the smartest investment I should make then.

About the 4S and 6S story. If I would run 6S I would need to reduce gearing to get the same ''end speed'' right? Without making adjustments to the gearing I would be only drawing more amps. But then the tricky thing is to consider battery tray size and weight. I can put like 20S (if I would have a 20S esc) in there but don't think that would help the handling of the car.

The gearing will have to change slightly, but not dramatically - when you switch to higher voltage, you need to switch the motor to match it (in most cases, but certainly not all)

you can go lower in the battery mah rating when running higher voltage aswell which will yield the same results as a lower voltage setup - but again - you will be running cooler...

the 6s setups look to be the best bet power and efficiency-wise, but 4s will do the job just fine - just lose as much weight as possible on a 4s setup - pretty sure most places run 15 minute mains anyway, so it's not that big of a deal...

i am yet to...
a) run my truggy at a track, and
b) run anything higher than 4S tho, so cannot speak too much from experience - just what i have read =)

I am hopefully gonna get a chance to run my mbx5t at a track on sunday, so will post how it goes... i originally opted for the tekin rx8 2000kv truggy combo, but wasn't thinking through the conversion, and mounted up a neu 1512 during mock up, assuming the T8 would be the same (long story as to how that happened) - i was wrong... so i'm gonna try the 1512 2.5d i have from the buggy (and swap the T8 into the buggy) in the truggy on 4s, and see how it goes - will go back to the drawing board and throw in the T8 if it doesn't go well enough...

But with lower mAh packs you need to be sure that the C rating is higher enough to still produce the minimal A recommended or does this also decrese? Like with the Flux they recommend getting 120A at least. So with a 4000mAh LiPo I would need to have at least 30C to still get that 120A. Or does this 120A also decreases?

I've never driven on a real RC track before. Till now I've just been bashing my cars (nothing extreme). But last weekend we made a little 'track' on the BMX track and we just raced (who could finish 3 laps the fastest for example). It was so much fun that I decided I wanted a good racing truggy to hit the tracks someday.

Question : Would a Neu 1515 1y be a good motor for a RC8T-e?
What about this Esc Hobbywing eZRun 150A ?

1515 2200kv will be more than OK ;) but get a proper ESC.

So I guess the eZRun is not what I'm looking for then? Because I really liked that programmable card thing :) .

A Tekin RX8 Esc is about 140 euro ($210) new! A complete set is like 220 euro new ($330) , that means the motor is pretty 'cheap' 80 euro ($120). That's pretty steep I have to admit, especially since the above eZRun Esc only costs 80 euro ($120).

Where can I by some connections for motor wires? Like some 5,5mm connectors and connectors that go into the MMM Esc?

Seeing as though you are in Europe, maybe you are better looking atsomething more readily available over there like BK or kontronik etc... MGM-compro/schulze and lehner are some others you may wanna look into if you have some dosh... Others may chime in with other suggestions...

I don't know much over Europe-way, but I have dealt with Rob at ace-cars.de before (my LST conversion is on that site) with good results... He is in Germany tho, but it's still closer than the states hehehe. Shoot off an email to him and he'll be able to help with any questions you may have :)

Yup, I'm from the Netherlands. Don't mind buying something in the States because it's WAY cheaper there. Only thing that kinda sucks would be sending a item back for repair.

I've never heard of BK or Kontronik, Schulze and Lehner I do know but they are not that good available (used at least). I will send Rob an e-mail and see if he has something interesting to offer me.

Thanks 4 the help so far!!

ahh, i see then =) Well, Rob may have some cheap alternatives for you - i'm sure any option he has will be a reliable one - otherwise, all the best with whatever you decide on man =) Let him know my LST was going really well untill i snapped the main deck, so he will be getting an email from me in the near future -lol-

I wouldn't be put off by buying a hobbywing ESC. They have a much larger footprint and giant fan mounted to them and almost non-existent customer support. And be aware of the timing bug. If I recall, setting it to "0" will result in a blown up ESC.

Yeah I did read about that timing bug thing. Looks like the Tekin is the 'best' choice, anyone have one and wants to sell it ??

EDIT: What kind of pinion does the RC8T-e take? The 0.8 Mod one?

EDIT: timing set to ''1'' I guess, thread here.

EDIT : just read this complete thread. Looks like there are a lot of people who have good experience with the eZRun 150A pack.

EDIT :
Tekin RX8 1/8 scale competition Brushless ESC = $200
Castle Creations Mamba Monster controller V3 = $155
HobbyWing 150Amp 1/8 car ESC = $100

EDIT : Does Mike also sell the HobbyWing programmable card (would want this IF I would decide to buy that eZRun 150A Esc), couldn't find it on the site.

Okay, the RC8T-e takes a MOD 1 pinion. Good news because then i can also use my Flux pinions right?

Anyways, I can buy a MMM v3 for around $120 shipped. Just the Esc, no box or papers.

Picture just taken (looks clean right?) : Picture

It's around 3 months old. Ran with a Savox 1800kv motor on 5S. Always very cool (according to the owner) fan was never on.

Good deal? I assume I still have guarantee when I would buy this right, how long is the stock guarantee?

Thanks!

Per CC, only the original owner has the ability to claim a warranty repair on it.
You sure it's the V3? I've heard of a few V3's making it out the door with bullet plugs on the battery side, just not many.
And, you can do better than $120 for a used MMM. I know. I looked on rctech when I built my buggy. Every now and then you can pick up a used one for $100. Be prepared to swap out the case/fan when you buy used.

How do they determine the original owner? Changes are good the product is not registered and the receipt doesn't states the owners name right? Or is the receipt necessary because I don't think the owner has it.

But how long is the warranty because the Esc is about 3 months old so if the warrenty only is 3 months ....

About a cheaper MMM. Shipping would also cost me. Now I have it in my home for $117 shipped. And as can be seen on the picture it does like very clean still so I would guess the case and fan should still be fine right? I will check RCTech anyway :)

I am currently in the process of building my RC8T-e, and have chosen a RX8/T8-2000kv combo from Tekin.

I cannot tell you about performance yet, but I will be running it on primarely 4s lipo, but will also try it out with 5s lipo.

I've read very good things about the Esc, not so good things about the motor though, lots of troubles. Hope you won't have any!

What gearing do you all recommend? I'm planning on buying some mod1 pinions here from Mike. I'm gonna order some 20T and 22T for my Savage Flux, but what does the RC8T-e need?

It will be running with a 1515 1y 2200kv (probably) and with a MMM (probably). Will be driving 4S and 5S (need to order 5S). Not thinking about a specific track or underground yet. Just something that gives a good balance between acc and speed and preferable that I don't have to change pinions when changing batteries so that temps remain in range.

@ BrushlessRacer, don't forget about me ;) (PM).

Does anyone have experience with a Quark 125B Pro Esc (will search forum now)? Can buy one from a Dutch guy for about 80 euro's. Only used once and with box and all.

Outdated...
Better a few euro more on a MMM V3. 1 year warranty. But best to buy in the US because of extreme price difference with Europe (dollar is getting cheaper and cheaper...). Hobbywing 150A will also do a good job. Althoug large, but plenty of space for it in RC8T and cheap. You'll find it here also in the shop of RC-Monster.

I wouldn't buy a used ESC unless you known the previous owner good.
Several guys here started running a tekin RX8 combo this summer. Motor (rotor problems) are a nightmare. Also ESC's give time by time problems (problems with the print - connections). Terrible long shippingtime for repairments as all needs to be send to Tekin. Last times they even got no answers on emails when they ask for the status of repairments and other questions. Maybe too busy with repairments, solving problems?? Very frustrating....

But when it runs the tekin gives a nice smooth run on low speed... you could use it to crawl... But in racing.... I do not see any advantage as truggies are not meant to be driven... With a decent motor (no Savox... = terrible, but a Neu, Lehner or as a good cheap alternative a Medusa afterburner 36-70 for a truggy) and the very good programm of MMM V3, Hobbywing or MGM compro cogging is not a problem to be noticed. With a Quark, yes, outdated you'll see cogging and most important heating up of the ESC.

Other things to consider:
Castle got a quick good service response.
MGM compro is also quick on response and very quick on repairs as they are situated in Tsjechia. Somewhat higher priced but compared to the US prices for MGM compro ESC's cheap... And 2 year guarantee!!!! Hassle free guarantee and also good advice etc..

Do not save a few bucks by buying used ESC's. If you want to buy on price. Hobbywing 150A, otherwise MMM v3 or MGM-compro. A quark 125 is a no go!

Thanks 4 the advise!! Will pm you in a minute or so ;)

You're just 45 km's from my place..... An half an hour trip and you'll can have a look at an RC8T FE brushless. Even drive...

Yeah, that sounds so tempting... Unfortunately I have my Master exams next week so it's just studying studying RC-M studying for me. But we should definitely hook up one day, will be fun.

You're always welcome. Keep in mind that I also work abroad (China) so at certain periods I am not at home. You can pm or mail me.
I think that I am the first brushless racer in Shanghai... Haven't seen brushless buggies at the track there this summer. Also no brands as AE and Losi there. Only Hot Bodies/Nanda/Hongnor and some very unknown brands - old type build buggies.

Hi,

I've heard and read that the electric kit has some parts that are kinda inferior to nitro kit.
(material shock towers, plastic shocks etc..)
So I was wondering if following combination is a complete kit:

http://67.199.85.166/ae/rc8t/rc8t_home.php a nitro kit, more specific, the Factory Team RC8T Competition Truggy Kit Limited Edition
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...imited-Edition
Because this also seems to have for about $150 retail in optional parts and accessories included...

in combination with the electric conversion kit of Rc Monster:
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...RCMRC8Tchassis


or is the Team Associated electric conversion kit still necessary?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rdware-Package

Think a seperate topic would be better ;)

But indeed the shocks are plastic on the RC8Te, nitro has the alu I think.

If you have the money this Fasctory Team limited edition the right choice for the reasons you already mentioned.

The brushless conversion set of AE is a real good direct fit and for sure good quality to make a clean setup.
The RC-monster conversion although seems to have just those little extra's for the finishing touch. But it is likely that you need to be a pro to feel the difference...
The rc-monster conversion is because of the extra chassis a little bit higher in price, but one can sell the original chassis of the AE kit (and ofcourse the nitro stuff) on ebay to get some extra $$...

So far I see that the RC8 FE (factory team editions) with the steering mod are one oft the most reliable truggies in the market, in not the most reliable and toughest. Extremely strong plastic parts (arms) and reliable drivetrain. It's hard to break something. I first had an 8-t brushless. Reliable also but not as tough as the RC8T FE and now I see quite a lot of new MBX6-t's on the tracks with broken arms and diff (shim-shim-shim...) problems...

The limited edition has quite some interesting extra's...

so when buying the LE + the RCM kit, you have all the parts you need

A motor, Esc, servo and some LiPo's would come in handy also ;)

I meant besides those parts ;)

And did you already made a decision as to what Motor + ESC you are going to get for your RC8Te?

And what kits are you going to buy, the RC8te kit or a nitro kit + electro conversion?

Keep us informed about your progress ;)

Yes, I would go for that.
6s setup with a 1300 - 1700 kv Neu 1515 & MMM V3 for when you are living in the US. Medusa 36-70-1600 kv would also be a good motor to start with although medusa has passed away....
For europe I would suggest to buy a MGM compro 8s 140 A controller directly at MGM compro. http://mgm-compro.com/index.php?cat=...for-cars-boats. They have a quick service and 2 year 'idiot proof' warranty. Price difference is just a few euro with a MMM V3 over an official agent. A very nice option they have now is a complete waterproof ESC!!!!! No fans needed on these 'though' boys. I am very pleased with the service and feedback on questions etc of MGM compro. I myself use both 2 160A 6s and 1 140A 8s MGM compro controller.
Lehner 1950 or 2240 series would also give terrific motor and can be ordered directly at Lehner.. http://www.lehner-motoren.de/ms22.php.

I would advice to use a UBEC (castle creations) as a bec is like a little heat source in every controller. A good setup with a decent esc doesn't need a fan.... For that a 6s for a truggy gives a much more reliable, efficient and cooler setup than one on 4s. 4 s for a buggy I see as a minimum and for the fact that a truggy is heavier 5 s seems to be the minimum to choose for, so go for 6s.

I see no need for using a sensored system.. Buggies & Truggies are to be driven.. not to use as crawler... I've no 'cogging' issues with the lower kv / higher voltage setups.
Althoug big I noticed that the hobbywing 150 A controller (also at RC-monster available) does a very good job. A friend of me has 'fried' ad MMM v3 is waiting already more than 3 months (yes 3 months!!!!! wat about customer service of ?Castle Creations for european customers... because of that MGM compro is the controller manufacturer to buy in europe, service = 10 days max!!!) for the replacement and is meanwhile running a hobbywing EZrun 150A. It runs without any problem and seems even to run more smooth than the MMM he has (but is waiting for to return...).

this is not a direct buy, but I already want to do my research and my questioning long before :)

But I was thinking about a MMM combo (esc + motor) this combo is one of the best combo's on the market together with the Teking combo (so some say to me).
Many forums + youtube comments seem to confirm this...So I think I will go for that combo.
And the MGM instruction are a bit to crazy for me to figure out, so I'll take my chances with the MMM combo :)

Where do you find those Waterproof versions?

I always asked myself what the difference is between the E-Series and Z-Series. The only thing I know is that the Z-Series are newer than the E-Series, right?

It's always best to figure things out good before you'll buy. before buying read all you can and deside wise. First you need to learn to crawl, than learn walking before you start running.

I would pick the MMMv3 combo. Will do good, but a lower kv motor with higher voltage will give a colder setup... Will also draw less max amps so lower c rating lipo's and by that cheaper can be used...
The tekin motor's.. rotors... dramatic so far what I see. When they work they do a great job.. but high faillure risk and 3 months warranty. Also quite a lot more faillures on the ESC's than with the MMM v2. Productidea is good, testing cyclus was loooooooong and promosing but as often minor changes once put into production can cause big problems... As I setup productions in China for EU & US based companies I know that that fase is very critical. And almost all the RC manufacturors outsource quite a lot overthere and in Taiwan. Read the boxes.. designed in the USA... = not equal to produced in the USA.. Same with 'designed by Neu' = not equal to 'produced by hand by Neu'... All has its price and often you get what you pay for. Although good = good and highend is for most of us a 'waste of money'.. better use that money for other fun things in life.
Castle Creations had their problems to with the v1 and v2 version but the v3 is now a good product, they work and 1 year warranty.. Customer service is good in the US, for europe it all depends on the agent that is selling and for that they have picked at least one who doesn't meet the requirements a company like Castle stands for... they should check good the job their resellers do & :slap:if necessary

The MGM is less complicated than one could conclude reading all instructions the MGM compro engineers hand out and by their 'technical type of writing'. They should write their instructions with the practical user in mind and not as engineer who explains something to another engineer...

Most important have fun with your RC8T!!! :party:

The Tekin rotors seem to be fixed with the v2 version (atleast so I've read here @ RCM).

The waterproof version is an option you need to ad to the ESC once you picked out the rigth one. http://mgm-compro.com/prod_opts.php?...&prod_type=reg WR, water resistant version. A picture of this version is at the home/introductionpage of MGM compro. And yes, it also works under water... but other systems of your RC8T might fail to do:lol:.

The Z series has an extra port for adding a black box to log all data, for that somewhat more $$$. Otherwise equal so if you are not a 'tech freak' it is a waste of money.

Seems yes.. design has been improved a lot. But as experienced still gives problems, althoug a lot less than with the 1st version.
And also for this it is very frustrating when you run a combo in Europe and the warranty takes a loooooooooong time (and shipping costs..).