Feigao 540 9L and Warrior 9918 Controller
 

I just received my Feigao 540 9L and Warrior 9918 Controller.

After getting it all wired up (LHS did it for me) I installed it in my e-maxx. It seems to be doing some weird things and im not sure if its normal so that is why im posting on the forums.

Now my questions are:

Is it normal for the motor to make a weird noise when barely giving it any throttle? The motor doesn’t even turn, it just kind of kicks a little and makes a high pitch noise. (ive never seen any other motor do it before, but ive never owned a brushless motor).

Is it normal that the back of the motor cover comes off after a run??? I noticed it came a little bit off after my first run. I poped it back on but how do you stop it from coming off??

Is it normal that sometimes when at a dead stop and you give full throttle nothing happens but a little jerk on and off?? (does this off and on, both in reverse and forward)

Is it possible that the motor or speed controller is dead?

p.s. I followed the install instructions to the letter. It does run good sometimes, but i have the problems above.

MadDog,

I would go over you connections. Make sure they are all tight, and your batteries are fully charged, and make sure you programmed your controller. Checkout this forum for programming your controller. But what you described is not normal.

With brushless there is a thing called cogging. The is like a motor that stutters at first when you apply very little throttle but then goes away after a certain point when giving it more throttle.

Could be weak batteries or signal from your TX.

I know my brushless was ticking loud when I first tried it. It was due to my batteries not being fully charged. My fault.

Can you give us more info on the truck? Gearing, tires, batteries, etc.

patch

MadDog - first off - let me welcome you to the site.. I am sure that mike will address this when he gets on the forum ( i will call him and make sure he sees this thread - although i really dont need to, he never misses any post - which is good ) The high pitch whining noise if you are just barely touching the throttle is normal as is the jerking or back and forth motion when barely touching throttle. That is what patch described as cogging. As far as the back plate popping off - i havent heard of that. Im sure mike has a solution for that. Also - please make sure that the receiver batt (providing your using a rechargable) is fully charged. That has been a culprit of a bunch of probs for people in the beginning. Im sure this is an easy fix - Hang tite till mike responds to ya.. Once again welcome to the site - you will find a bunch of our members are very skilled and knowledgeable in this field ( brushless)....

MadDog and Patch: welcome to the forums to both of you! Thanks for jumping right in as well, Patch! Between what HotnCold and Patch have mentioned, the ground is pretty well covered, but I will add a few possibilities based on the information presented.

The weird noise at low or partial throttle from takeoff is perfectly normal. All the Warrior controllers do it (sounds like a whine almost) as they takeoff. No worries there. The back of the motor shouldn't come off, but it is only pressed on, so it certainly can happen. I should have a fix for this any time now. I am working on a prototype heat sink for the motor that also acts like a motor clamp, and should have these available soon.

The jerk you are describing from a dead stop (back and forth motion) is a result of low BEC voltage. This means your batteries are dropping below 5.5 volts (if you are running 12 cells, you have crappy batteries). This typically does not happen with a receiver pack in place, either. I think a good set of batteries and the motor clamp/heatsink I am working on will cure your problems altogether. Start with a nice set of batteries (try someone elses if you have the opportunity to see the difference). Stick with good batteries (stay away from orion packs or similar cheap packs, as they can't deliver the voltage/amps required to fully enjoy your system).

Answer thanks for your guys replys!! I really feel better now knowing that everything is normal.

I do have some cheap 1200 batteries, so that is probably the reason. I spent so much money on my emaxx that i forgot about buying batteries so that is the last thing i have to pick up.

Again thank you guys for your great support!!! :D

The batteries are definately the problem. I think you will need a diaper when you run some good cells :) . It will be a completely different experience. Glad we could help. Please reply back to this thread when you try some good batteries.

Ok i got a hold of some 7 cell 3300GP batteries. After running for a while the studering problem came back, but the truck seemed to have a lot of power still when it didnt studer.

The studering did get worse when the batteries starting getting lower, but it still just does not seem normal when it studers and the truck still has plenty of power.

Oh ya i think i forgot to mention that i have the External BEC/UBEC and i pulled the black tab out of the controller as instructed. Maybe this could be a cause of the problem?

Perhaps the soldering job on the UBEC isn't the greatest? Just a guess, but ti shouldn't act that way. You could try removing the UBEC to eliminate it as a possibility (use a receiver pack or the controller bec).

Everything is soldered solid.

I just had my 2nd run with the 3300's. Now with a fully charged battery it cuts out everytime. If i slowly give it gas it seems fine, but when i try a top speed run it cuts out. I also had the motor plate come off every few minutes.

Any other ideas?

OK i just had a run with the External BEC/UBEC and put the plug back into the Warrior. Its still doing it with fully charged batteries! Gosh this really sucks. It seems to do it worse when at a complete dead stop then giving it full throttle. It also did it at top speed.

Normally the UBEC can handle a voltagedrop, it has got his own voltage regulating/correcting circuit.

Okay, what i would like to know;

1-did you try a normal 6V batterypack (rechargable!)
2-what thickness of wires are you using between the bat/esc?
3-what plugs are you using between bat/esc?
4-have you got a few pics of your setup as installed?


you are running your truck on 7 cells only? This could be the problem; the setup is able to pull like 100A+ The voltage would drop till .8 volts. this is 5.6 volts. very critical..

In addition to serum's suggestions, I would also begin to wonder about your radio. If I am understanding your explanationss, though, it sounds like a BEC issue, which should not exist with the UBEC or receiver pack and 12 or 14 good cells.

Heres Two pictures of his maxx that I just took. Hes using the stock Tq3.
We are going to test it with the JRXS3 and see if theres a difference

www.rcbros.com/images/drewsmaxx/maxxside.jpg
www.rcbros.com/images/drewsmaxx/maxxside2.jpg

If you need bigger pics just let me know. I reduced the size on them for faster upload.

Okay, how about the other questions/suggestions?

I meant close-up pics of the wiring etc.

I will post some pictures of the wiring after i get a chance to test it with a new radio system. I want to see if that helps first.

Thanks for all you guys help!

My brother had his batteries some where else so i couldnt use them, but i did use my crappy 1200 cells for the time and it wasnt as bad. It did it a few times but again, it wasnt as bad after i got my wires redone.

Here is a picture of the wiring, http://www.rcbros.com/images/drewsmaxx/HPIM1012.gif

If you need a different picture let me know.

Forums
 

Im glad to see that your getting the bugs worked out. Thanks to all on here for your input in helping MadDog with this issue.

Hopefully all the little nit nat will be worked out soon and you'll be ripping up the earth with some insane BL Power in no time.......

PLEASE!!!!!! try a seperate battery pack for the receiver.

:) - yea what serum said.. Definately try the receiver battery..

Those Tower battery packs are pretty much useless as well. Also, don't use the controllers bec AND another bec source (like UBEC or Rec.pack). If the black jumper is plugged into the controller, don't plug the UBEC in or any other Rec. pack.

I sure hope you guys get this all figured out. I'm having the EXACT same issues (motor shuts off under WOT, or 2nd gear heavy throttle). Sometimes it just stalls out during a run.

I have the same setup Feiago 9L / 9918 / UBEC, black jumper off, beautiful soldering connections, 12GA wire, 14 cells of GP3300's, new radio system installed (JR XS3 Pro).

It ran perfect for 2 days, then I parked it for a few hours. It started acting stupid on the very next run. Controller became so hot it melted the heat shrink wrap right off (mostly). It was one of those mis-labeled 9918's.

My truck is fairly light, with upgraded drive train and steering, front bulk / front & center skids / ALU chassis brace.

I'm at my witts end with it all, and just ordered another 9L / 30150 Brushless Car Controller.

I've moved my esc mount as far from the motor as I possible can incase motor heat was effecting the esc. I don't want to melt anothr new esc.

Please let me know if you get this worked out.

crjackson,
The 9918 shouldn't even be working up a sweat with the 9L motor. There must be something else wrong to cause the heat. Perhaps a bind somewhere? I have run up to 14 cells on an 8L motor (hotter motor than the 9L) and the controller never got above 150 degrees. Have you got any pictures of the setup? I hope the UBEC isn't the cause (seems to be common on both of these trucks).

Actually I don't. I already took it apart in preperation for a new controller / motor that I just ordered from you today.

I've been all up and down the binding sea-saw and can't find anything. With the motor pinion disengaged, I can actually blow hard enough against the tire chevrons and cause the wheels to spin at any suspension angle. Yes, I'm a blow-hard j/k... :) get it out of your system now...

I purchased an aluminum esc mount that bolts up to the empty motor plate area next to the 9L. I'm hoping that heat transfer from the 9L through the motor plate, through the esc mount caused the problem.

both motor / esc are only a few days old...

I don't think the UBEC is the cause of the stuttering on both trucks.

On the first truck, he is running on 7 cells??? GP's or bad towerhobbies 1200's.

The second truck is building up a lot of heat in the controller, so there must be a mechanical resistance. or a damaged controller Due to that, the voltage may also drop too much.

Your heat transfer theory is unlikely, but your "blow hard" explanation is quite amusing. :) I guess we can take binding out of the equation. Have you run it with a receiver pack or using the controller's BEC vs. the UBEC? I hate to think the UBEC is a problem, but you and the other user in this post seem to be having similar issues and the UBEC seems to be the common link. There are MANY 9918 warriors out there and these two are the only ones I have heard of with this issue. I would like to get to the bottom of it (for the users sake, but also for my own sanity!).

Serum,
Both controllers seem to be having BEC related issues - do you agree? The desription of the problem sounds exactly like low BEC voltage to me. The Cheap tower cells are definately a problem on the first truck, but the melted heatshrink on the second truck is throwing me. These warriors run pretty cool, especially with the 9L (not that hot).

Other than spinning all the wheeles, CVD's, drive train, spur gear ect... can you tell me any method for checking of binding.

All my cvd's have PLENTY of end play at every suspension angle, and the motor pinion/spur gear has about 0.10 in lash so I know it's not too tight...

It ran very cool the 1st day and most of the second day. Then after I parked it and tried to run again - hours later - cool 40* night it started acting stupid as soon as it turned it on. It didn't get 1-2 min into a run when it stalled out over and over. I check the heat and the esc was really super hot to the touch (the motor always is).

I let it cool (thinking the batts were low) and repeaked the batts. It was no better. I removed the esc and found most of the heat shrink was melted away. Once I saw that, I didn't even try anymore, I just removed it and placed my order the the top line controller you have posted, and a new motor in case that was the cause.

Man only days old and starting over again...

I made a new mount from a thick piece of lexan and moved the position of the esc (when it gets here) as far from the motor as I can get it...

Send the controller back to me if you like. i will play around and see if I can determine the cause. I am curious if the UBEC is a factor. Could you try it with a receiver pack in the mean time (should be a day or two before your new stuff arrives)?

I bought the controller from starluck. I'm trying to see if he will accept a return on it. He's not repiled yet so I assume He's busy at work and will get back to me tonight. I'm just kind of impatient and placed my order anyway.

I do have a good 2000Mah rx pack that I can test with if the new controller has issues.

The UBEC I bought from you last week though...

If Jamie won't accept a return on it however, I'll be glad to send it to you for examination. I'd like to know what caused it too.

I've even wondered if BK didn't mess up other things on it besides the sticker. It was one of those branded as a 7018 by mistake...

Jackson, Sorry for the mechanical resistance story. we where crossposting.
Are you able to measure the voltage from the UBEC?
And what gearing are you running on your maxx?

Did you removed the BEC jumper from the 9918?

Doesn't explain why it did work, and it does not work now though..

And Yes Mike i agree on BEC problems from both of the controllers. I looked a bit misty, because of the crossposting.

With regard to mechanical resistance and binding. Am I over looking something? I am a rookie at this (3 months now) RC stuff so feel free to jump in and point me to another method.

I don't have a VOM but I could get one. It's too late to test it since it's already stripped off and waiting for new parts.

Gearing is 16/66 right now. I do also have 70t and 72t spurs to gear lower.

Yes, the BEC jumper from the 9918 was removed.

I don't expect to see the same problems again with the new BEC-less controller / motor. If I do then the only thing left is the UBEC. I didn't think it acted like that to me when this was happening so I didn't install an rx pack to test with. If it happens again, I'll put in the rx pack and return the UBEC for replacement.

All that said, I don't think it's the issue. It shouldn't get so hot as to melt off the heat shrink wrap IMHO. I could be wrong though. Mechanical binding maks a lot of sense, but I just can't find any.

The only other think I could come up with was the esc mount acting like a heat sink (via the motor mounting plate). This really seems an unlikely thing too, but I just don't know what else could make it that hot.

Here's a thought. See what you think.

I didn't put any kind of an on/off switch on the setup. To turn it on I just plug in the battery packs. Each time I did this, I did notice slight sparks as the plugs were connected.

Could this have damaged the controller and/or the UBEC? I'm putting a switch on the next rig when it arrives.

The sparks are the result of the low resistance when the capacitors are 0 volt on your speedo. It could not damage the speedo. I'm not sure how the ubec handles this.

Okay, thanks...

Just trying to cover every possible angle..

Could someone tell me if the new 9L motor (5mm) will have a flat on it, or will I need to put one there when I get it?

You'll get it with a perfect round shaft... ;)

Thanks,

I'll be warming up the dremel tool then...

Well ive got 2 more runs with the GP3300's and everything went great. I just went back out and did a run down the street, i was coming back and before it got to me it stopped. The motor does not respond at all but the rest of the servos are getting power.

I tried to re-program the speed controller and nothing. Im not getting any sounds or anything from it!?!?! Whats going on??

Here's an update on mine. I noticed a lot of end play on the motor shaft (1/16"). And roughness in the bearing when I spin the shaft.

I'm thinking bearing failure may have over taxed my controller and burnt it out.

I'm sending it in tomorrow for a checkup.