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-   -   BL Rustler (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2435)

Thunderbruiser 02.25.2006 04:04 AM

BL Rustler
 
I Just bought a Rustler the other day and wanted to start off with a simple bl sys. so i got a reedy sphere w/neo 1 9 turn motor and on 3700 mah matched.....this motor runs strong.....i was just wondering do you guys think i should run the rcm-rc g10 chassis or should i get the flm chassis? i want a sligtly lighter setup but good strength

crazyjr 02.25.2006 12:22 PM

Do you have a link to the rcm-rc g10 chassis? I like the fastlane chassis, but i haven't seen the other chassis so i can't give an opinion on it.

seth556 02.25.2006 01:35 PM

Heres the link http://www.rcm-rc.com/products/produ...products_id=29 I just don't know if they have it in stock.

squeeforever 02.25.2006 01:44 PM

am i missing something here? what keeps the pack from sliding sideways and grounding out on the aluminum post?

CrazyPhantom 02.25.2006 06:44 PM

If you wana be patient, I can talk to andrew over at CFR and see if he still has any carbon fiber chassis laying around. The last time I ask a couple of months ago, he still had it. I will get you the price.

Thanks,
JOe

seth556 02.25.2006 08:31 PM

On the rcm-rc chassis the battery kept from sliding because of the battery strap is tightned down on it so far that it is tight keeping the battery from sliding.

squeeforever 02.25.2006 09:21 PM

i wouldnt really trust that. i would use some ae cups or something. not to mention your limited to 6 cells with tath setup

Thunderbruiser 02.27.2006 02:35 PM

thanks man on the cfr thing well yeah the most the truck will see is 7 cells but 6 is already more than enough.......i forgot i put this hear....but the 3700's love this setup it really moves compared to my 3000's

joostin420 02.27.2006 04:21 PM

the FLM chassis is not setup for 7cell stick packs, but.......

if you look closely at mine you can see i removed the angled support pieces that connect the gearcase/chassis together with straight aluminum tube spacers. i also cut the rear AE battery cup back portion off. 7cell 3300mah stick packs now fit snug in the chassis :027:

http://home.comcast.net/~joostin420/...4/site1375.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~joostin420/...4/site1378.JPG

justin

RC addiction 03.12.2006 05:04 PM

go with the flm any lighter than stock and you might as well put wings on it, i have the novak bl (i think is the entry level bl sys) and at the local track i can't keep it on the ground you have to find a happy balance between weight and traction

Cadtech 03.13.2006 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RC addiction
go with the flm any lighter than stock and you might as well put wings on it, i have the novak bl (i think is the entry level bl sys) and at the local track i can't keep it on the ground you have to find a happy balance between weight and traction

I agree about weight vs. traction on a BL rusty! I designed/milled my own graphite/G10 chassis and shock towers for my rustler, with Novak SS BL and it's tough to put power to the ground, or keep the front wheels down to turn.
Takes a delicate touch on the trigger finger.

If you track race, I'd recommend the G10 chassis. If you're bashing, the G10 would be good, but definately use a self-adhesive lexan film protector on the bottom of the chassis! The G10 will gouge fairly easy, which will weaken the laminate.
The FLM would probably give you better stability (more weight) for bashing.
http://image12.webshots.com/13/0/16/...2QSpvMd_ph.jpg
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...1005726QSpvMd#

Thunderbruiser 03.13.2006 03:59 PM

well i am gonna be running on the track mostly and that's the biggest jumps it'll see which aren't very high bashing wise other than that i'd be running around my lawn or something like that!

Cadtech 03.13.2006 08:54 PM

I think you'd be really pleased with the performance of the G10 chassis, especially after running the stock set-up. I couldn't believe how much lighter and stiffer it made the truck; which in turn made the steering and overall handling much better.
Note I also made extended castor blocks (to widen the track) and changed the front suspension geometry, to eliminate bump steer and increase steering response. This really helped alot too.

Thunderbruiser 03.13.2006 09:43 PM

yeah it's pretty nicely setup......yeah anything would be better than the stock chassis imo i was even thinking of dremeling it out...but i would rather have a diff chassis!

Thunderbruiser 03.15.2006 03:28 AM

what's a good length turnbuckle for the extended a-arms? seeing as i have broken a part i am thinking of just replacing with aluminum!

MetalMan 03.15.2006 08:32 AM

I'm pretty sure that these are what I use for the steering links with my FLM extended arms:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJJ16&P=7

Then for the camber links, I think I am using the Lunsford turnbuckles that were for steering before I got extended arms. So, that would mean that something like 54mm links should work:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJH80&P=7

RC-Monster Mike 03.15.2006 11:04 AM

The extended arm kits include the needed turnbuckles(individual front or rear arms don't, but the complete arm kits do). :)

coolhandcountry 03.15.2006 11:24 AM

What about the chassis kit? Does it come with the turn buckles to?

Thunderbruiser 03.15.2006 06:21 PM

oh coo...cause i bought the complete kit mike...so that's coo....anyone know where to get alu knuckles?


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