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Brushless J-truggy
Hello people,
I need some advice about the wanderer XL motors. I am designing a chassis in autocad, with as base point two f/r diff from an 1/8 buggy and a center diff (46 tooth plastic spur) and the savage servo steering setup. I also use the savage front and rear suspension. So I can use my 23mm wabash wheels with 40 serie bowties. For the shocks I use the UE racerx. The truck will be 482mm long and 190mm wide. In the chassis I made 10 holes at each side for the cells. The chassis will be 4mm thick, the upperdeck 3mm and the left motormount en the right mount 8mm. I want to use 18/20 cells. The xushobby ubec will replace my heavy receiverpack. I still use the 9920. I have a 12,14,15,16,18 and 20 tooth mod1, 5mm bore pinion laying around. For my savage I have a 7XL. But that is too hot for my setup and the centerdiff with only 46 tooth. I used the calculator to get to know what motor is the best. And the wanderer 13XL came out to be the best choice. Do you agree with that? If anyone has other comments, please share! |
Sounds like a sweet project. Can you get some pictures of the CAD'd chassis?
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The 13XL is a very slow turning motor, and even on 20cells its not really going to come to life. I would say something around a 11/12XL might be better suited, and they'll have so much torque that it won't really matter that you've only got a 46t spur.
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the 13XL will work perfect, like we discussed yesterday evening Jasper. It was the mixture of power and runtime you are looking for. you could go for a 12XL for a bit less runtime and more power.
the 11XL is too hot, with that 46 spur. it's geared for 40 mph with a 12T allready. Your goal was to reach 45-50 mph, that and the desired runtime, i still advise you to take the 12 or 13 XL. |
sounds like a good project and the 12/13xl sounds like a good choice motor wise
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Thank you guys! I will order the 13XL as fast as possible.
Here is the prototype for the J-truggy. I need to adjust the upperdeck because there are no holes for the savage steering setup. I need to adjust the rear of the upperdeck because otherwise the motor can't reach the spur gear. And I need to make one extra hole at each side for the cells. http://img454.imageshack.us/my.php?i...nternet8zr.jpg |
Nice work the Jasper. What are you planning to make the chassis out of? CF/Aluminium?
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Nice project, Jasper! Can't wait to see a finished product!
Somehow this project, with its buggy driveline and Savy suspension, seems to remind me of another project I heard of.... I guess the nationality is a coincidence ;) Bring it on boys! |
I will use aluminium for all the parts. A friend of mine is making all the parts for me at his school. Because he is studying metal adjusting. I asked him if he could get a hand on the 7075 alu, and he said, it is possible :)
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LOL Daniel..
My project will follow.. (might take a year or 2-3 ........ ) |
it looks good jasper
nice work |
Well if I was going to buy a motor. I would put a 11xl on it with 20 cells at 13 46 gear with the bowtie tires. But that is just me. My calculations come out to about 47 mph.
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Yes coolhand, that's right
Here is a list of motor/speed. All these speeds are with 12/46, 20 cells, 135mm diameter tire and 3,31 ratio. 11XL: 45,6 MPH 12XL: 41,8 MPH 13XL: 38,25 MPH The 11XL seems to me offcourse the nicest choice. Because I like speed :) But only if the runtimes and temps are good. I want to run 15-20 minutes on IB3800 cells. The weight is probably around 4 - 4.5 kg. Because my 1/8 buggy also weight that. So does anyone know what the runtime/heating up temps are with these motors? |
20 cells with 9xl I got 34 min ib 3800s. Temp got a little warm but not bad. Should have less of a problem with the 11xl. With even more run time.
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Thanks coolhand.
Mike said to me in a email that the 13XL is taking a long time until it gets here. The 12Xl could he fix in one week and the 11XL is the fastest shipment option. With all these information I think I go with the 12XL. I will order this motor with lots of other parts. Man, this hobby is soo expensive! But I love it :) ! |
Jasper. Seeing as you live in Holland, have a word with Mike and see if he can get the 13XL shipped direct from bk's factory in Germany. I live in the UK and Mike got my system shipped direct from bk. Just an idea......
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Yeah, he knows..
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cool, just checking :)
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I know maxxdude :)
I added one hole at each side of the chassis for the cells. I extended the chassis because the axles doesn't didn't seem to fit. I use savage axles for the f/c and r/c diff. The length of the chassis is now 494. That is huge man! Is it no to huge? The upperdeck is completely changed. I made a new design. I added two holes for the savage steering and I made some space for the motor behind the motormount. Now I need to design the shocktowers. I try to finish that this weekend because monday my friends vacation is over and the is going to school. So he can cut my design out :) http://img210.imageshack.us/my.php?i...pleetv22bx.jpg Let me know what you think of the new design! |
it looks good Jasper
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Looking good!
How thick of alum. are you going to use for the chassis? Have you figured how you're going to secure your battery packs? A couple suggestions: Add a milled slot to each end and on each side of the battery locations, in case you decide to use web straps to secure them. Easier for your buddy to mill them in (even if you never use them) than to want them later and not have them. If you're going to use rigid straps mounted on posts, drilling holes is no big deal - slots aren't as easy! Might also suggest making the chassis out of thicker stock (perhaps 5 or 6mm) and plan on milling down the majority of it to perhaps 3 or 4mm. I.e., leave a 3 or 4mm wide "lip" all around, for increased rigidity. Leave chassis full thickness over mounting points. Easy for your buddy to do, if he's using CNC milling equipment - and will leave folk's jaws on the floor when they see the finished product! :004: good luck and take lots of pics! |
Thanks boss and Cadtech.
Cadtech, I allready figured out how to secure the batteries. I will use the parts from my xray evo2. http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/4280/xray0110lo.jpg I only need to design a battery strap that fits over my 10 cell slots. And I allready did that :) Good thing that you mentioned the thickness of the chassis. I think I will go indeed 5mm. Milling some places down to 3 or 4mm seems to me not like a good idea, because there are allready so many holes in the chassis. I really need a strong chassis for the BL power. Here is a screen shot with battery straps and shocktowers mounted: TOP: http://img500.imageshack.us/my.php?image=top1oa.jpg FRONTLEFT: http://img345.imageshack.us/my.php?i...nksvoor0om.jpg FRONTRIGHT: http://img345.imageshack.us/my.php?i...htsvoor3ob.jpg Let me know what you think of the battery straps and shocktowers! |
The battery straps and shock towers both look good imo.
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I made some progress with the parts for the truggy. I ordered different stuff from ebay, at my local hobby shop and by BKelectronics. Mike, I am sorry that I didn't placed the order by you. But it is cheaper to boy it from different stores. And I also don't have to pay tax.
But here are the parts. - Pro-line crowd pleazer 2.0 monstertruck - Pro-line white wing - Venom speed meter - 4 ofna 9.5 rear shocks - BMS 630MG servo - BK wanderer 12XL - 15,16,18,20 tooth 5mm bore pinion Today the BK wanderer 12XL came in. I thought the wanderers had only better bearings, were blue and had 5,5mm connectors. But this motor has good more! Build in heatsink, flat grinded shaft for the pinion. And it looks cool! Is this the new version or something? I brought my design to my friend and he is now working on it. It is done in one or two weeks. |
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More
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Cool!!
i'm getting one too!! ;) |
That motor looks awsome. Looks a bit like a 540c XL, and by the looks of things the endbell is removeable.
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Thanks guys. I really like this motor :027:
I want to know how the motor will handle 16, GP3300 cells. So I placed the motor in my 1/8 buggy. The gearing was 46/12. I also added a wing mount and mounted the ofna 9.5 springs at the rear. This motor ROCKS :017: The torque of this motor is massive. I drove the buggy for at least 20 minutes hard. Straight on the road in front of my house and on the grass. After 20 minutes the batterys were still full! And the power was almost the same than at the beginning. Then a couple of friends dropped by so I talked and drove a little bit. But not so hard. Then I helped a friend to walk his commercial papers. So I drove for one hour in the neighboorhoud with the truck. But very slowly. So after 90 the minutes the battery's were empty! With 20 minutes hard driving and the other 70 slow/mid. This is very impressive! The motor was getting less than hand-warm. So I can gear higher. I am going to buy some IB3800. Then the run time and the speed will be sick :017: |
De-anno that heatsink and it will be even cooler.
Nice conversion Jasper. |
thats cool, I wondered about those motors
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Finally an update!
At my friend the cutting does take to long. So I managed a professional CNC specialist for my chassis. He made a sample off the upperdeck and chassis, out off 1mm steel, to see if all the parts fits. I don't let the other parts cutting out, because I can see if it fits, by simply printing it out on a paper 1:1. So the most important parts I have now. The chassis needs to be a little tweaked for a perfect fit. But that is easy! I let the complete chassis be cutting out soon. Out of 7075 and 6061 aluminium. Here are the parts that I use for the Truggy: Carson: center diff, front/rear diff with housings, spoiler mount HPI savage: 123mm stock dogbones for center-rear/front, complete front and rear suspension, steering setup Dace: 23mm hex Pro-line: spoiler, 40 serie bowtie with wabash rims, crowd pleazer 2.0 body Ofna: shocks Custom: four shafts for the suspension. They need to be 3mm shorter than the HPI bones. I need to find a person/company for that. I know rcalloys. But I want one in the Netherlands. Let me know what you think of the chassis so far? Any tips? NOTE: the chassis is out of 1mm steel. The shocktowers are made by myself. The wheels need to be adjusted. http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/7171/pakketje9yu.jpg http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/8122/chassis3kx.jpg http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/9...perdeck5cb.jpg http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/4...terdiff7yg.jpg http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/1...perdeck4sx.jpg http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/7...ichting7pp.jpg http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/1...nrechts0ap.jpg |
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Lookin' good Jasper!!
the rear wheels need toe in, not toe out.. :) Did you had him cut a motorplate as well? this is 6061 aluminium, right? |
Yes I was curious about the motor plate too
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Eeh, just read what I wrote guys...
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nothing about a motorplate.. Or do you want me to go thru the other 3 pages as well?
you said to me on MSN you had them made out of 6061, that's why. |
Rene, I managed a professional CNC guy for the truck. So not the the boy from metaalbewerking :) Because he can't get it finished. In case of the vacation...
This chassis is not out of 6061 alu, but 1mm steel. As you can read in my post ;) It is a sample. To see if it all fits. When I got all the bugs out off it. I give him the sign to cut every part. Including the motormount. |
Nice!!! Custom chassis!!!
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can you explain the difference between a professional cnc guy and a person who has the ability to use a laser? this sounds kind of weird to me. If you have got the machinery, it's rather professional to me..?
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