Is there a way to make the flux last for more than a 1/2 pack ?
 

I just istalled my new bullitproof diffgears and went bashing ! but i could only run for about 10mins before the front center gearbox output broke in half and the front centershaft lost a drivepin :cry:

is there a way to make this thing more durable ?

loosen your clutch

+1 Adjust slipper to SLIP

Don't drive like a maniac

HPI new super duty diffs

How mutch chould the slipper be slipping ? I tried the faktory setteing of 1/2 turn from closed but it didn't slip ! so i loosed it 1/4 more and i think it slipps alitle now.

Maby i chould swap the motor for a weaker one ?

just loosen the slipper so that the clutch slips only under about 80 percent and higher throttle input

u run your flux on 6s? if so go for 4S. 6S is just stupid with drivetrain quality of savage trucks. actually 6s with 2200kv motor is stupid in any truck :)

been there done that

6s and a 2200 in my truggy with a center diff, wheelies on demand, backflips- the works...in race trim- on dirt :yes:

+1

Yeah, 4S will be more than insane enough even in the heavier flux. Other than adjusting the slipper some, you can also get the CastleLink to adjust some of the settings of the ESC such as "punch control"; you can scale that back to help deal with some of the insanity.

will the motor pull less amp's on 4s than 6s with the same gearing ?

With the same gearing,just dropping to 4s from 6s it should be pretty close to the same amp draw, amybe a bit more but it will be slower. If you tried to gear for the same speed as 6s while running 4s the amp draw would be much higher

How did you guy's setup your blur/mmm esc in your flux ?

That's a bunch of hooey (AKA - Crap). I've only run mine on 4S once, and wont likely do it again. And yes, I beat the snot out of it, and drive it like it was stolen. My drivetrain has yet to show signs of wear and tear - however, the rest of it has been torn apart and upgraded to handle the power.

Pull the reciever lid off, pull the esc plug, and plug in the Castle wire (which you likely dont have unless you bought it seperatley (I dont remember mine coming with the wire). Then connect it to your PC.

I've got my punch control set on 20% (or is that 80...cant remember which way that goes). Timing is at stock (I think that is 10?).

This is my esc setup:


Start power=high
Timing = lowest
Punchcontrol=100%

how are you able to keep your flux driveline from breaking ? i haven't even been able to run a sigle pack thou my flux !! and i don't abuse it !

i have had 80-100$ hbx cars last mutch longer than this 1000$ one Grrr !

I made a comment in your other thread on this. I'm guessing that maybe driving habits might be coming into play here. If its not, my money is on you having just recieved a truck that was built on a late friday afternoon, with a set of bad drivetrain parts. The latter is not near as likely as the former.
This truck is much heavier, and probably much faster than those 80 dollar stadium trucks. You could get away with things like landing a jump on full throttle with those, at least for a certain amount of time.
Someone used the term Abuse - to me that means intentionally doing things that might cause damage, inadvertently doing something that causes damage is nothing to be ashamed of.

would it be a good idea to lower the forward throttle amount to 80% to reduce power ? or maby lower the start power to medium instead or high ?

are the e-maxx 3905 or e-revo more durable than the savage flux ?

nope, the flux has the strongest of the 3 drivetrains. if you think your flux diffs break easy, just wait until try a traxxas truck. my t-maxx busted a diff with a tiny little .15 sized engine. it doesn't even have enough power to wheely, even with full traction. the traxxas trucks also have really weak driveshafts. they just aren't meant for 6s BL power. the flux, with the bulletproof diffs is the way to go.

Crank the start power down, try low ?
Punch control, if your at 100% you can bring it down a little if needed.
Don't mess with EPA unless absolutely nessasary(thats what the Programing feature is for)
Timing set at Low should be OK

Loosen up the slipper so it slips on high traction surfaces the first couple feet and don't be afraid to experiment with the slipper settings. Try it loosened up, you can always cinch it back up.

I ment the forward throttle setting on the esc not the tx ! :lol:


Mayby monster mike could fab some stronger outputs and driveshaft's for me ?

Check your bearings

My Flux is well into it's hundreds of runs, never once had a diff issue, only gear I have broken is that cheesy 18/23t stocker and a pinion both of which I have upgraded.

And I used to have a bit of a reputation as being able to break the unbreakable :D

I am running 5s A123 batteries.

Continual standing backflips will also murder diffs like nobody's business. I rarely do it, even with my bulletproof set upgrade. I highly suggest you get a Castelink and tone down your punch control until you can control your throttle finger

You could always do like Freezebyte, contact HPI say you heard of a guy who's second cousin twice removed had a diff let go on his Savage Flux and therefore you should get free parts under warranty in case it happens to you!

:lol:

that's kinda mean, but you make a good point. sorry freezebyte, but, why fix something that isn't broken; also at the cost of a good, honest company none-the-less?

Is there any stronger diffoutputs aviable for the flux ? I broke one on the rear diff today after 20min of bashing ! (35min total runtime since opening the box ) I also broke a drivepin on the rear right driveshaft !
This truck seem to be a pice of garbage ! an 1000$ + pice of garbage that is !!:diablo:

i will never buy a savage again ! i'll stick to my e-revo !

The diff outputs are 5mm bore right? Pretty much any cup will fit in that case, just needs to be the right length & perhaps hardend steel?

Nope the diffoutput and the outputshaft are made in one pice !

But the outputs on the diffpinionshaft are hollow and the bore is like 8mm and un the center gearbox it about 6mm

:sarcastic:

is there a centerdiff aviable for the flux ?

I bash my flux like nobody else I run it on 4s and have never had a drivetrain issue, I have broke my tvps a arms bulkheads, hingepins, but thats all my fault for bad landings.

ok ! so 4s is the ticket ?

No there is not to my knowledge and that wouldn't help your issue. You also failed to mention to us that your driving the Flux in near 0 temperature conditions and snow. Were you not aware that colder temps can make plastic and even metal more brittle and more likely to crack and break vs regular room temperatures? I think that combined with the stress induced of running your Flux 6S is the cause of your problems. These trucks were never designed to handle those type of running conditions.

i think so, I put my flux through things my brushless emaxx would have never survived.

He has ignored every question regarding drivng style/conditions - which makes me suspect that the cause of the failures is user induced. If in fact he is running it at 0 degrees F on 6S, then yes, that is the cause of the problems. I would also bet that the traxxas vehicles he quoted would never hold up to half the power he is putting out with the flux.

:yes:

You wonder what is going on.. I've have yet to hear of a diffcup failing. Mine are over a year old and are fine. The pins have worn them a bit, but never cracking them. Ran it in the snow too, but then again, I was not out to murder it.

I am not sure what you are doing to your savage, however I beat mine HARD and have not broken that many parts. Especially driveshafts, dogbones or output cups..I am not even sure how those break to be honest. I would talk to HPI and MAYBE you got a lemon...Or MAYBE you need some driving lessons? If the truck is bound up in a rock or something, that doesn't mean pull the trigger all the way...

Well, if the output shaft and drive cup are one-piece, then do like alot of guys (me included) and replace the stock shafts with something like what Mike sells for the revo hybrid diffs, then you can run any cup you want.

6s lipo + cold weather + heavy bashing/ abuse = broken parts- the emaxx and erevo wouldnt fair much better under the same circumstances, and they also have much more plastic plastic on them..

I split a cup out on the wheel end - also had a bad bearing there too. But that was more likely due to some of the jumps I landed, not a quality issue.

My stock diff gears were in pristine condition when I replaced them - and the ONLY thing I dont do to abuse my truck is standing backflips. The launch ramps I use can give me 40 -50 foot jumps, 10+ feet high and I rarely land it on the wheels. My Flux was one of the first to be shipped by Tower, so its been almost a year now, and the drivetrain is light years ahead of any Revo or Emaxx I have ever run. Same jumps with the Revo, and I stopped by the hobby shop EVERY trip home from bashing for some part of the drive train.

In my experience (notice my join date), the details provided so far reflect user error, not product deficiency. You have to learn when and where you can use the power these things have. And yes, sometimes that learning comes through your wallet. I've got a 500HP truck sitting outside. Can I just go out, build the boost up to 50psi and let it rip - no. I'd first wring the driveshaft into a wet noodle, then my tranny would probably collapse on itself - even though I just dumped 5 grand into building it. Every mechanical object has its limitations, be it a 600 dollar truck, or a 60K truck.

Well said !
post pics of the Non RC truck !