UE 8 spyder diffs
 

i'm planning to upgrade my emaxx diffs to UE 8 spyder diffs how much will it cost me to do it front and rear of course and is it worth it?

i think that the hot bodies lightning stadium diffs are better since there hardend and are also more helical cut. i would use those with the flm hybrid bulkless system. the hb's are about the same price as the ue.

Only you can say if it's worth it. They are pricey but they are the one thing on my truck that I've pretty much built and forget about them. If you intend on running a high powered BL system then I think they are a must. There are some other options out there that are pretty good also but I can't speak for them. One things for sure, you don't want to be taking your diffs apart any more than you have too.

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...diffset&cat=40

The 8's will be a little bit more but just e-mail Mike and he can get you a quote. Good luck.

8 spyder's are better, since they got an alum casing which the lightning diff's doesn't have. Meaning the caseing won't twist under power, and that's what kill's diff's.

And if you really wanted too, you could throw a set of steel spyder gear's in there to make it even stronger.(instead of the molded one's) Which aren't expensive.

But they key question is, how much power will you put on them?

Sicco, have you got pics of that twisted diffcup?

i will be using it to race with a hacker 9xl , i've used the maximizer product but it is a pain to change it especially if you are racing it, is the price $240 includes both front and rear?or includes only one set?do i need to buy a different bulkheads for this? thank you guys for all your inputs

Yes, it includes both front and rear diffs. the bulkheads are the same as all of the bulks are, so your safe with whatever one you have.

Sneeck, where can i ge he steel spyder gears to replace the molded one?

towerhobbies should have them.

Ive never seen the steel gears for 8 spyders. Are you sure tower has them?

What kind of cvds you have luvsrc? Not all the cvds are compatible. That is for a set of front back with shims and diff housing.

The HB diff cups are plenty strong, sneeck. I don't think they would ever be an issue. The HB hardened diffs are a nice option IMO. I just got some in and will get them listed in the store soon. I will likely replace the UE diff listing with these, as they are superior to the UE 6 spider diffs IMO. I would speculate that they will be comparable in strength to the 8 spider setup, but less expensive and easier to build.

And for the record;

those HB gears are molded too, savage gears would fit too, but the HB crospins are from harder steel (hard chromed as well) than the ones for the savage.

The HB cup is tougher than tough. If it is bent or twisted, i am sure there is much more damage..

I can confirm the HB's are tougher than the UE 6spiders. It is the crappy pot-metal they are made from. The cup however is the same, it is a cup, which is used by Ofna, Kyosho and HB. You really can't tell the difference if you seen them next to eachother.

To me they are much more durible either you go with than the stock emaxx ones. :D

I am happy with the 6 spyder diffs.

I stand firm behind CHC's last comment


I don't see the 7XL destroying these anytime soon.........

I've searched for a pic of the twisted 6 spyder cup with no luck before. It has been posted on ue forum quite some time ago.

Nevermind you guy's, I swear by my 8 spyder's. They never failed me before and am sure they won't fail me in the future. To each his own.

so, what if the HB's are cheaper? stronger and cheaper..

I do see a 7XL destroying the internalls.. with a centerdiff, it's a whole different thing.!

Alum diff cup?

Beside's, I allready got them, not going to swap diff's for a "more helicoil cut" ring gear or w/e lol while still use cheap molded spyder gear's. That's nut's. Beside that, I need to buy some flm bulk's too, so that make's them actually more expensive and rule out the diff's if you allready got alum bulk's. Unless you like to buy part's twice that is.

If I can't break the 8 spyder's why I need even stronger diff's.

Ok i'm done ranting. Like I said before, to each his own.

I wasn't replying to you Sicco.. check one post back, and then my reply. It will make more sence then..

i was talking about 6 spiders, not about your 8's.. LOL

So your saying that the hardened chrome plated steel pin's inside the lightning diff's make them stronger? Since basicly both diff cases are the same?

Or do the lightning diff's use better cheap molded spyder gear's?

I have trashed one output gear before, but i was because the shifting servo wasnt getting the power it needed to shift and I goose it between shifts and it trash the high speed gear. Oher than that no problems so far, diffs are strong as ever too.

No, that's not it.
i said the crosspins are stronger...

And for that, the spidergears won't eat their way thru the pins, and in the cup. and those metal chips coming from the shafts, will ruin the gears faster too. It doesn't changes the strength of the cup though.

here, i used little metal square parts on the end of the pins to make the diffs stronger. here, observe this picture; (savage diff)


http://rc.stuurmijmail.nl/Savage/slides/PerfectDiff.JPG

I'm surprised if the spyder gear's will eat into the cup. They got a thick ring behind them to prevent just that.

You do got a point on the gear's eating into the cross pin's. Will check the diff's this weekend if there's any damage done.

They will get skewed if they eat in the pin, and will damage the housing if they do so, you don't need to worry about that Sicco, with your diffs, the power is divided over 6 pins instead of 4..

Ok cool. Just gonna check on them cheap molded spyder's anyway. Might replace them with those metal one's I saw on tower's.

Have you got a link to this things on towers?

Sure do.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCWK1&P=7

Just saw the measurement's. Anyone know the diameter of the tiny spyder's of the 8 spyder diff's?

These won't fit Sicco!

gears are a different size, to fit 6 in a circle.

I was afraid of that by the judging picture's.

I will wait for me to break mine then put something better in it.
I am not going to worry though.

On another thread, captain was having diff in installing his dif's. Are there any out there that are strong that don't need so much modifying? and still cost effective?

I have the flm hybirds and ofna diffs. It was put together operation. I didn't have to mod nothing.

thanks sounds good, are they tough enough, and what if i wanted to go duel bl later?

Also, did you go to 6 spyder? or 8 spyder, when u say ofna i'm assuming that's what you are referring to...

I got a 8 spyder diff made by ofna. You don't need a dual brushless system. One good system will out perform and run longer than a dual. I have zero problems with the set up. I run the ue 6 spyders and the ofna 8 spyder setup with no problems.

thanks for the reply guys so $240 for both the front and rear is not bad at all by the way,does the mip cvds ok with them?

MIP and UE cvd's are one of te few that work with the 1/8th diffs. So, that is a yes.. ;)

If your worried about twisting diffs and the such - might wanna consider the 8mm cvd's - plus they are a little longer - so no chance of the cvd popping out of the diff cup.. just my .02

where can i get info on 8mm cvd? thanks

Mike can get them for you.

Is it true H&C? are these 8mm's longer?