Project Mutant Predator
 

I started this build a while ago. I have had to improvise with misc. parts such as the center shafts to make this work
Parts Used:
HCR Ti Mutant Maxx Chassis
Sealed Emaxx diffs
Gs Storm Center diff
Proline Powerstroke Shocks
Mamba Monster 2200kv BL system
Zippy 4s 5000mah
Jr ds8711 Steering Servo
Proline Steering Kit
Airtronics Mx3-fg Tx/Rx
Traxxas Outer CVD's
Ofna and XTM center shafts
HPI Savage Diff cups F/R
Traxxas Grey Bulks
Traxxas Square Shock Towers
RPM Front A-Arms
RPM Trutrack Rear Arms
Traxxas Ss Hinge Pins wit E clips

Goal eventually is to convert to GA bulks and KH towers, This is the weakest link in my setup so far
She is an absolute beast, Gearing at 9/46 for 37mph but will lift the tires at almost full speed.

Anyway here she is!!

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Awesome. mounting the MMM in a box (looks hack and prevents cooling airflow, also heavy) AND mounting the battery so high like on a normal chassis and looks like in a classes case, also with one strap ruin it for me(not going to stay on). Still awesome chose of parts. Please fix it!!!!!!! So much potenitial

Awesome! IIRC you teased us a while ago that you were going to build this, and I've been waiting to see it done!

The mutant platform is certainly a rare find for the maxx. I always wanted to do one brushless!

For bulks I'd go with fastlane 1/8 scalers and 1/8 gears. I agree with Zack, I'd lose the box around the MMM and try to lower the battery. The low COG is the whole point of the mutant.

She looks good man! And it sounds like you're having fun. Video!!

I know ideally the ESC shouldnt be in that box, But honestly it still doesnt ever get hot. The fan may kick on at the end of my battery if it even does. The battery is mounted in a metal sunglasses case, it works great to protect the battery and it doesnt get hot either. My system runs flawlessly now. I have been trying to figure out how to mount the battery lower but room is the enemy, I have been trying to figure out a way to optimize all my electronics just havent had a chance to try my ideas. Its either run it or fix it and I pretty much just got it all together.
I have been looking at the FLM HYbrid Bulks and a set of KH towers if I can come across them for a fair price. I have a few rigs to get rid of to get the $$ to buy more though

I have a set of GA bulks and KH towers if you're interested. They came from my JT racing chassis.

I still have all the parts (suspension etc). I only sold the chassis.

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Good job on your conversion :party::party::party:.

what do you want for them?? I am working on selling the savage so I can make the purchase, are you interested in any trades. Savage .25 with CF TVP's Hitec Hs645mg servos extra tires, HB roll cage and tons of extra parts inc. a few NEW aluminum clutches.

I started to tear it down last night to reconfigure my electronics. Hopefully I can satisfy myself and others with some changes. The hardest part will be finding a lower point to mount the battery. The strap I use is for a brief case and it is wrapped 3 times. It is as solid as any other battery strap I could find it does NOT move under any circumstances including cartwheels. This is my first ground up build so please bear with me, lol!!

Flip the mount, flip the cd, get a monoblock(more room) and new shaft, widen the chassis(would be easy), something. LOL

I dont know that a Monoblock will fit this chassis...
The thought I had was to flip the upper chassis deck over and try to flip the CD around and have the motor point towards the front. I am hoping to gain some clearance by doing this. I really dont want to cut up the upper chassis deck. I dont want to compromise the structural integrity. Although I have thought about making some braces that mount from the tower to the lower deck and make an upper deck out of CF. I just need more funds at this point. If the wofe finds out I spent any more on this thing with out selling one of my other rigs it could get messy, lol...

Well fliping the chassis wont work. So I am trying to obtain a 1/8" piece of CF to make a new upper chassis deck. Probably going to grab a RCM battery tray kit as well. Maybe I can convince George16 to trade me those parts for a RTR Savage with extras. I know the truck is worth more but that is the EXACT set up I really want with the strobe braces.

And the monoblock will not fit this chassis, the lower mounting point on the monoblock goes to what would be the chassis braces on the maxx. This chassis eliminates the rear skid, so it wont mount

the problem with GA bulks (or any bulks) is that you are stuck with traxxas diffs, or need the uber expensive UE ultra lite diff cases to run 1/8 gears. With brushless power you will NEED better diffs.

it sucks about the layout, almost as if it wasn't made for electric!:lol:

The top plate only serves to hold servos and stiffen the chassis. You could eliminate it and make chassis braces to replace it. (think 1/8 buggy)

Or, if making a new top plate, I would place the battery box first and integrate the box and top plate to make one unit.

Also, if making parts, you could turn the servo sideways for a little more room.

Or, just run it like it is and tell all us internet bloaks to shove off!

Well with GA bulks You can always go the LST2 Diff route... Seems to be pretty popular. Also the 3905 diffs when shimmed properly seem to hold up fairly well in my Maxx. There is always options...:whip:

good point about the LST diffs. (they just need minor fabrication to work)

I disagree about the 3905 diffs, however. When shimmed properly the ring and pinion hold up but the spider gears let go. I've seen it too many times, and figure if you're going to do it, do it right from the start- some form of 1/8 scale gears.

Eventually I would like to use 1/8 diffs but $$ is the enemy right now. As you see it I have about $1400 tied up. Looks like soon to be $2k. lol I am going to get a battery tray kit and a piece of CF to make a new upper chassis deck. I thought about using 1/8 buggy style braces but dont have access to a CNC or mill. So CF is what will be used. I have had NO problems yet with the f/r diffs. THey are the new Emaxx sealed diffs I dont know what model they come from. THe problem with getting bulks that arent for traxxas is the rig will be down even longer due to more $$ being spent. I like to play. I have other rigs but honestly they get quite boring after playing with this thing

I don't see why you can't bolt(with countersinks) a flat plate of aluminum or plasitic to widen the chassis.

I have thought about using some mud guards to widen the chassis. But then I have to drill a bunch of holes in this rare chassis. That is one thing I am trying to prevent, modification to the current chassis. By making the new upper chassis deck I can mount things the way I want them, with the current chassis deck and mudguards I still dont have good mounting areas for the Speed Control and RX. I took the "HACK" comment to heart here man. I will not hear that again lol... When it is finally "Done" the COG and ESC mounting will be ideal. Now I just need to sell some unused rigs

Anyone in to Vintage RC?? I have an old Kyosho Ultima that needs some TLC and a few parts to be complete but its mostly there. Will go to a good home for a fair price!!

I think I may take a trip down to nitrohouse/ofna and take a look at some mud/stone guards just to see what I can find. Its not really what I want to do but just may give me the clearance I need. We will see. Unfortunately they arent open on the weekends so next week I will begin my search

Sorry! I really am, its a great truck! You know good parts when you see em. Great job on finding some existing shafts that work! I bet its a blast!
Maybe you could just incorporate the holes in the chassis that are already there. Like overlap the new little widener plate over or under until you come to some useable holes... IDK. You know good parts when you see em.

Infact... I see some holes on the battery side that aren't being used. and/or You could shorten the top plate post(s) ever so slightly with a dremel or sander and incorporate a plate/mud gaurd extension under the post(s) Like with the plate inbetween the chassis and the post(s) Wouldn't ten millimeters of extension be enough? Two screws would suffice.

I went and checked out some losi SC8/RC8t mud guards and they look like they will work but I still run in to the same problem with the upper chassis deck. I think making the new chassis deck is the correct way to do this. So I need to sell some rigs so I canorder stuff online. I cant hide money from the wifey when making online purchases. So i need to sell some rigs lol

I am going to sell the mutant maxx as a roller. It will have the HCR Ti chassis, Proline steering kit, Proline powerstroke shocks with superstiff springs and regular ones, Rpm front arms and RPM tru track rears, Gs Storm Center diff. New Emaxx f/r Diffs, Traxxas outer CVD's I will include a 9T and 10T pinion gears, RCM BL motor mount, Aluminum CD brace, both center shafts and an extra set of center shafts, Traxxas Square shock towers and Traxxas Grey bulks. Will also include a set of Proline dish rims with Bowties. Want to get $300 for the roller, Let me know if you are interested