Diggity Designs XLR8 TC3 build
 

This is the touring car I've been working on recently. Technically, it's a TC3, but there's probably less TC3 parts than there are parts from the Diggity Designs XLR8 kit. It is the V1 version, which isn't quite as good as the V2 (which was upgraded to better support lipo and brushless), but it was half the price, and for my first time trying out a TC I didn't want to spend too much.

The carbon fiber decks and shock towers are all 3mm. The battery tray is the RCM crt.5 tray, and fits perfectly on the chassis and holds the new Turnigy LiFe packs perfectly as well. Besides all the alloy parts from the kit the other upgrades include ceramic diff balls, MIP cvd's, AE alloy threaded shocks, Ti turnbuckles, clamping alloy hexes, and some graphite hubs and carriers.

I'll be running a 4600kv Castle motor with a Mamba Monster for now, until I can get a MMP. Batteries as mentioned will be Turnigy LiFe 2S. I still need to pick out a servo. Any suggestions? I assume in TC's speed is the name of the game more than torque? Once I have a servo I can drop in the other electronics and it'll be ready to go.

Here are a few pics, more to follow once it's finished:

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...3/P1020523.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...3/P1020528.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...3/P1020527.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...3/P1020526.jpg

Hey thats NICE Jason !!! I Like the bulkheads too, it's real purty.

Thanks! The open bulkhead design is definitely a big plus for maintenance and adjustments.

The other thing I am debating is that I have one sway bar set right now, and I'm not sure to put it on the front, back, not use it at all, or maybe get another set and run both front and back? Is there a standard setup that should be tried first? Once I get it up and running I'll have to experiment a bit.

WOW. that is one amazing looking machine. those open bulks are way cool.

Sharp! Should be a sick runner...

As to a servo, one of these Hitecs should be more than adequate.
Both metal geared, both $50-60.

-5625, more speed, less torque
-5645 trades some speed for more torque

I'm pretty sure they're the same servo, just with slightly different ratios.

Waiting to see the onboard video!

Yeah you are right about that! Should be able to mount the camera right on the upper deck and see through the windshield. Between the on-board video and getting an EagleTree up and running I will have plenty to keep me busy until the snow melts (which won't happen until the end of April!!!)

looks great, if its top speed you are going for then your going to need the sway bars

Not really going for top speed at this point. Honestly by RCM standards I'm probably being conservative, only shooting for 30-35mph. Of course you guys are all speed freaks so what do I know, right? LOL Just looking to play around with a TC a little bit and see if it sparks my interest.

From what I have read the sway bar will reduce body roll, but will do so at the sacrifice of a bit of traction. If that is the case I would probably try the sway bar in the rear, and keep more traction in the front of the car. This will probably make the car want to "push" in corners, but make the handling a bit more forgiving overall, which is what I need as a novice driver. Does this sound right?

Here it is almost finished. I need to get some Dean's for the LiFe packs, clean up the wiring a bit, and make a few minor adjustments. The MMM will have to do until I can get a MMP. Once I get the sensored ESC I might change to a sensored motor too, depending on how much I end up liking on-road driving. Right now the whole setup weighs 1455g, which I would guess is pretty heavy? I have no idea what a TC setup usually weighs though.

The spur is 69T and the pinion is 26T giving a rollout of 1.18 and putting the top speed around 34mph on 6.6V. My 2s Flightmax hardcase lipos also fit the tray, and would bump the speed up to 38mph. Looking forward to getting some driving time in ASAP.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...3/P1020537.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...3/P1020536.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...3/P1020535.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...3/P1020533.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...3/P1020534.jpg

Car looks great.. How much adjustment does the motor mount have?
phil

The bottom mounting screw is in a single hole. The top screw slides along a slot that gives about 20mm of adjustment. 69T is the biggest spur that can be used, and the 26T pinion I have puts the motor right in the middle of the mount, leaving plenty of adjustment to gear up or down.

Those diffs were meant to be sealed.

Very nice looking, I love it, but the plastic Associated diffs are going to drive you nuts if you run it more than once.

With 2S1P 30C lipo I'm getting around 35-38mph out of the 5700, and around 42-44mph out of the 6900. I'm geared 25/72 with HPI X Patterns.

I had to completely tear my TC3 apart after the first body... 20-25 packs worth, to rebuild almost everything. The plastic just doesn't hold up. I can't imagine it holding up while being completely exposed. The top of the stock diff cases have holes in them, and mine sucked in enough dirt to a diff ring or two... or four.

I also had a blowout without the belted X-patterns with my NiMh's.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2791/...40cebbc85d.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2758/...dc65844447.jpg

You should also look into the NTC3 steering. The swing-rack is another headache in itself. I think, with that chassis, you can use the NTC3 stuff without modification.

I still love that chassis, I just wish they would have sealed the diffs.

Since I'm going to be running indoors hopefully the diffs won't be too bad. I've been talking to a few guys who have built the XLR8 kits and no one has mentioned anything about the diffs going bad, but they also run indoors. While exposed diffs are open to dirt and debris they are also easier to clean and easier to change the type and amount of lube.

I have only broken one rear diff in months of running my tc4. Not sure about the tires maybe not glued good? I have had the x-patterns up to 90mph without trouble.
phil

Phildogg do you have the belted or non-belted x-patterns? Right now I have the stock TC3 tires and rims which aren't belted, and I also have another set of HPI wheels which I'm looking to get tires for, maybe slicks. Don't really think I need belted for my speeds, but might try them just to see. Also want to get some foams to try out.

Thinking of maybe trying these out: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Front-Lilac-2
I think the "simulated" CF rims would look cool with stock TC4 silver body with CF hood.

mine were the non- belted pro compound. just make sure they are glued good. They hook up alot better than the stock tires did. gonna shoot you a pm .
phil