I need MAJOR Warrior help
 

My BK Warrior 9920 is currently not working. When I give it throttle, the motor stutters but doesnt go anywhere. After about 30 sec of throttle with just a little progress, the ESC, connections, and motor were HOT. Help!


JB

It once functioned properly?

you can move the car/motor with ease?

Yea, I took it out many times and it was great. I actually tested both of my feigaos and both used to work and now both do the same thing. I just cleaned out the entire savvy drivetrain and it rolls exceptionally well. It was fine and then it didn't run the next time I took it out.


JB

check all your connections. sounds like you might have a bad motor or battery connection.

Both the Feigao 540 10XL and 380C6T were working perfectly before. I just replaced Tx and Rx batteries. I tried reprogramming it 5 min ago and it wasnt beeping at all. I am using Deans connectors for the battery (GP3700) and 5.5mm gold connectors to both motors. Will it void the warranty if I take off the heat shrink to look inside at the circuitboards for problems?


JB

i believe so.

Hmmm... won't be doin that then. Any troubleshooting for a non-programming 9920?


JB

What do you mean with non programming?

check if one of the three 5.5 plugs isn't loose, if you bend the plugs somehow, the plug itself might deform and cause a loose contact. (can be fixed by widening the plug a bit)
It could be a receiver/BEC/humppack problem too..

Nonprogramming as in it doesn't beep when I plug it in w/o the jumper on. It is supposed to beep to say it recognizes neutral. The Rx pack is 4 AA batteries in a little holder that came w/ my MX-3. Just checked the gold connectors and all connections are in great shape. I also just tested the Rx with a Duratrax intellispeed 12t+ and Orion Revolution 13x2 and I had good throttle control. Its not the Rx. Bummer... that woulda been a heck of a lot cheaper fix than an ESC.


JB

Have you got a decent rx pack you can test with the 9920? How many cells are you driving and can you confirm you didn't removed the BEC jumper instead of the programming jumper?

No, the AAs are the only rx pack I have. They are new, though, and should be fine. I can't even find the BEC jumper. The programming one is the red one and that is the one I removed. Where is the black BEC jumper? I was previously running 18 cells until some of the heatshrink failed and some cells shorted. I took those battereis out and ran 3-4 12 GP3300 cell runs through my 10XL and it was working fine. I have been testing it with the suggestions in this thread with 6 GP3300 cells and the 380C 6t.


JB

The bec jumper is a little bit further under the heatshrink.

Try programming it once without the rx pack, and the 6-12 cells because the onboard BEC is still enabled. (if it works) the rx pack you are using now sucks. You need to get another one, perhaps the problems started with changing the batts?

It would have been a good thing if you removed the BEC jumper with the 18 cells though.

Well, I got to the BEC jumper. How do they expect you to find that? It was well covered by the heatshrink and behind a cap. O well. I took it off, put it back on, tried different combos and eventually was able to get a the 540 ramped up to a decent rpm. Then it didnt work again. It worked differently depending on how I held it, so I'm thinking some connection inside the ESC is bad. Any suggestions on how I could test em all? I've already had to peel some of the heatshrink back to get to the jumpers, should I go ahead and peel it back to get to the batt and motor wires?


JB

You can sent it back to Mike, if he sold it to you.

Did you used foam padding between the ESC and the part you mounted it to? Did you tried it already without the RX pack (4AA cells deserve no credit at all)

No, I didn't use foam padding. Was I supposed to? And yes, I tried it without the rx pack. I did buy it from Mike.


JB

Okay, here is the deal;

the bottom of the esc is carrying some SMD parts, they can come off, if you mount it on a hard surface. Which might be the case.. I don't know how handy you are in terms of soldering, and a don't know what will happen to the warranty if you remove the shrink or weld it yourself. does it rattle when you shake it?

Contacting Mike is the best thing to do in this case imo

It doesn't rattle. I'll contact Mike. Thanks for all of the help, I really appreciate it.


JB

The no foam may have damamged it. It don't sound good. Make sure the motor wires have not come loose on the board. I have had that happen to one.

I mount all my BL speed controls on velcro & zipties so it can float a little bit.

velcro is a good mounting platform. It provides some "padding". If you want, send it on back my way and I will have a look. Running 18 cells through it without removing the BEC jumper wasn't a great idea, really(controller's bec is only rated for 12 cells). You should also get yourself a real receiver pack or a UBEC. The 4AA batteries is not doing your system justice(you have a decent radio and brushless system, so you may as well scrap the weak link).

I had a problem with mine where there wasn't any protection below the 9918, and a SMD part literally broke. That rendered it useless, even for Mike.

P.S., Mike, any chance that you have any more information on that controller of mine? :)

Your controller is fixed, but it is somehwere out in la la land with my motors. When you see the xl motors back in stock, I should have your controller at the same time. :)

You should add that on the page for the 9920: http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...od=9920warrior

It said 3A BEC, didn't state a limit so I was expecting to be able to run the BEC on 6S lipo......:032:

The BEC limitations are in the instructions. There is a link to the PDF instructions in the listing, for those looking to find out all they need to know before the purchase. Of course, these forums will provide more information than you can process as well. :)

Cool.. Thanks, I never even noticed the link to the instructions in the listing :)

Why are the AAs so bad? They dont need to be able to put out a whole lot of amps. I plan to get a good Rx pack ASAP, but don't have money right now. Do you think I damaged anything with the 18 cells and BEC? It was running after I got done doing that. I'll send it back soon. Thanks.


JB

The controller is powered by the 4 AA's and the steeringservo can take a lot of power from them. the ESC takes his share too.

I'm just trying to follow along here and am a little confused.

When you say you were running AA's, does that mean NiCD/MH, or regular Alkalines? IIRC alkalines have a steady dicharge curve so the voltage drops steadily as they are discharged. Plus, they don't like high currents too much as opposed to NiCD/MH.

Second, were you running the built-in BEC at the same time as the AA's? The Warrior manual says you can run an Rx pack to help bolster the BEC for higher currents (I personally wouldn't do this), but not if those AA's are Alkaline.

Yes... the AAs are alkaline. I know NiMhs are better and I really wish I had some, but I dont have $20 for a pack. And yea, I ran it w/ the BEC because the manual said it was good to do that.


JB

The manual does says it's ok to hook an Rx pack to the BEC, but I'm not sure if they meant Alkaline Rx packs. Most of the time, people use NiCD/MH batteries for their Rx pack. If the BEC voltage exceeds the battery voltage (even by a little) on your Alkalines, the BEC will try to charge those batteries simply because there is a difference in voltage between the two. When the Alkalines were new, they probably measured a little over 6v so the BEC was fine since it was at 6v. As soon as the batts dropped below 6v, it probably tried to charge the batts. As you know, you aren't supposed to charge Alkalines (unless they are specifically meant to be recharged). According to Wikipedia, recharging non-rechargeable batteries can cause cell explosion. Although, if the current is low enough, it might just heat up. Either way, it's "bad". Is it possible that your BEC component became overheated in this scenario? I don't know how this would effect the other components or cause something to come loose...

Hmmm... good to know. But what about nimh? They definately dont stay at 1.2v /cell. Say halfway through the pack they measure 1.1v. If the BEC is putting out 6 and the Rx pack 5.5, wouldnt that stress the BEC current too? It obviously wouldn't be bad for the batteries. The alkalines were in fine shape when I took them out, so I'm guessing they weren't damaged. O well... I'm done w/ this problem. I'm sending it off to Mike ASAP. I am sick of having a many multi hundred dollar savage sitting on my desk w/o an ESC.


JB

Well, not really because the BEC won't let the Rx pack get that low. As soon as the Rx pack voltage drops even a little below the BEC voltage, there will exist a difference in potential and current will start to flow and will start to "trickle charge" the Rx pack. The net effect is that the battery probably won't drop below the BEC voltage much.

Honestly though, I wouldn't even use the BEC because it's just that much more heat for the ESC to dissipate on that little heatsink, which should be reserved to cool the ESC output devices. Personally, I would just disable the built-in BEC. Then you can use any Rx pack type you want.

It is true that you can use a receiver pack in addition to the BEC according to the instructions. The instructions ALSO state that the bec is only rated for 12 cells. So...if you have over 12 cells, you shouldn't technically be using the controller's BEC at all(with or without "assistance"). Under 12 cells, and you can use a receiver pack for "help". It really only makes sense to run a receiver pack AND the controller's BEC when using 6 or 7 cells. 18 cells using the controller's BEC is asking for it, as the controllers BEC unit must "dupmp off" the extra voltage(20+ volts input vbs. 5.5volt output = 15+ volts worth of extra energy to dissipate) as heat.