Jammin SCRT10
 

Got a Jammin SCRT10 back in December and I have been running it almost every weekend. Great truck, had a CRT.5 before which was my favorite truck and I must say the SCRT10 handles so much better (longer chassis). The only thing I wasn't thrilled about were the smaller wheels/tires. They work ok, but your pretty much with Jammin unless you convert to Slash size wheels (which I have done). Currently running a Novak hv 4.5 and MMP on 2s. Running the Novak because it is a larger sized motor (runs cooler) but it has a high kv so it will run on 2s lipo.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...P1010038-3.jpg
Stock body and Jammin wheels/tires.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/05150002.jpg
Novak hv 4.5 and MMP

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/05150029.jpg
Slash wheels and modded front bumper.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/05180019.jpg
Now running Slash sized wheels and an Associated SC10 body. That's my Slash PE 4x4 in the background.

Nice, I also have one on backorder. I currently have a slash 4x4 but figured this would be a better racer.

Hope tower gets them in soon, if not I might just cancell and get the 10sc cause they are in stock.

I went with the Slash sized wheels on my Jammin so I would have a better selection of tires to choose from. When you convert to the larger wheels it raises the ride height. So you need to adjust the shock position and droop to compensate. One of the issues with this is it reduces the up travel in front because the shocks are so short. One fix is to go with longer shocks and use a shock tower that is taller so the shocks can be mounted higher (upper). Many are using the rear shock tower and shocks in front, but the problem with that is the rear tower uses tierods for the upper suspension and the front uses an a-arm. The a-arm is stiffer so I wanted to keep this feature. So rather than use the rear tower I made an extention for the stock front tower that raised the upper mount and allowed me to use the longer rear shocks and retain the upper a-arms. Now I have plenty of up travel.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/05190014.jpg
My modded extension for the front shock tower

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/05190022.jpg
Shocks attached

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/05190024.jpg
View behind showing how the body mount is attached.

The stock bumpers are very fragile, I broke mine the first day. I had success in the past using a Slash bumper on my 1/8 buggy SC conversions so I decided to see if I could get one to fit on my Jammin. I made up two brackets out of aluminum and the Slash bumper bolted right on. I has been very durable.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...P1010040-2.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/P1010043.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/P1010045.jpg

Hmm any reason why your not running a NEU motor on 2S. About the same price and probably a little better performer as well. I think a hv4.5 would be the same as a 1512...

The Neu motors (1509) I have are a little low on the kv to run on 2s. The Novak is a 5000kv motor so it produces more rpm than the Neu motors I have. I ran the Neu on 2s in my Jammin SCRT10 and was not happy with it. I run the 1509 in my Slash 4x4 on 3s and it is a rocket. I think the 4500kv 1509 Neu would be the hot ticket on 2s but it costs $200, where as the Novak was about $100.

Hmm wonder how a 1512 might do on 2S.

nice modification. bumpers are important in a short course race. you don't know whos going hit you.

I actually have a 1512 2D, that I ran in my 1/8 buggy on 4s for a while. The problem is it a high wattage motor and can pull a lot of amps. This is ok on 4s not so sure how it would work on 2s. But you never know I may pop it in and give it a try.

Some updates to my Jammin. Added upper diff mount/esc tray from my CRT.5 (makes gear mesh adjustment a lot easier) and I got a set of SNR extended shock towers (which will replace my homemade items.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/P1010039.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/P1010046.jpg

here's a few pics of mine with the new towers and shock mod. Raced it this saturday and it drove really well!

Mine just shipped today. Looking forward to see how it compares to my slash P.E.

Got out on the track this weekend and put in some laps with the Data logger hooked up. You can see it peaks slightly over 100 amps, which sounds ok since it is a 800 watt motor. The voltage drops pretty low as well so a good battery is a must with this setup. Everything ran cool and the peformance was fantastic, so no concerns so far.

Setup:
Jammin SCRT10
Motor = Novak HV 4.5
ESC = MMP (Smartmode)
Reedy 35C 5000mah lipo
Gearing = 14/46
Wheels = Pro-line Split Six Bead Locs
Tires = Proline 2.2"/3.0" M2 Switch
Extended front tower using rear shocks all the way around (white springs)
Fluids = Diffs 3/3/1
Shocks = 60wt front, 50wt rear, 2 hole piston


http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...amps022110.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...dy2s022110.jpg

Gixxer, you won't be disappointed. I own both a Slash PE 4x4 and the Jammin SCRT10. I normally take both of them to track and run them equally, but this past weekend I ran 7 packs thru my Jammin and 2 thru the Slash (and one of those was by a local Slash 2wd racer who wanted to try the Slash 4x4 out). The Jammin is just so much easier to drive fast, handling is better and surprisingly it has proven very durable. I have had both of these trucks since late Dec and breakage so far:

Jammin = Popped one steering ballend off (no damage just popped it back on). Two rear wheel bearings were getting gritty so I replaced them.
Slash = Broke one outdrive yoke, broke two axles and bent two others, center diff bearing lost all grease (replaced).

KingSkid, I love my extended towers. You know if you are a really good driver that can stick every landing and can hit the perfect line lap after lap maybe you don't need the tower. But for a normal human being like me I need all the help I can get. I can go off a jump a little out of shape and when I land the truck just sucks it up and stays on the line.

I have raced my slash since they first came out. So far one broken arm. 2 rear axles replaced. Ofcourse I bent the rears back a few times before I actually changed them. I do race on a smaller (75x45) indoor track. I am sure if I raced it outdoors I would of broken the axles much sooner.

Most of the guys at my local track have gone to cvds. I was going to but figured why not just buy another truck. :lol:


Should have it this week. Tower shipped it monday. Wont get to race it until next week though.

Well here is the final result. Should be trying it out at the track for the first time this week. So far I just put thicker oil in it 50wt and moved the shocks out on tower. Added a mmp, airtronics 94758 servo, novak 6.5hv and some new tires and wheels.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...h_CIMG2214.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...h_CIMG2216.jpg

[QUOTE=gixxer;352471]Well here is the final result. Should be trying it out at the track for the first time this week. So far I just put thicker oil in it 50wt and moved the shocks out on tower. Added a mmp, airtronics 94758 servo, novak 6.5hv and some new tires and wheels.

Gixxer, looking good. What wheels/tires are those?

those are proline split six wheels with bowties. I like the yellow. http://www.prolineracing.com/product...ls-435-33.html

Where to buy snr shock towers?

guy on the rctech forum. surprised you didn't see them there.

No just wonder what's the benefit as I am going to use 14mm shocks from x1 jammin cars.

The benefit is more travel. You want to increase the travel (in front) but you don't want to raise the ride height, so you need to increase the up-travel. The stock Jammin SCRT10 front shocks are really short and don't have enough travel. If you use the rear shocks in front (or any longer shock) you can gain some up travel. To use longer shocks you need the extended shock tower. Just don't get carried away with the front up travel as too much and your CVD's will bind under full compression. Use the SNR tower and stock Jammin rear shocks and you won't have any issues.

Can I use CRT .5 shock tower or can u point a link where I can get the snr towers? Thx

Check this thread, Post #2022 the guy your looking for is "SNRSCION" send him a pm for more info. He has front and rear extended towers in Carbon fiber, 3mm or 4mm thickness.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post7028198

Got it, pm him already thx

Can a neu 1512/2.5d motor fit in my scrt10?

Been a while since I posted any updates. I have been running the truck almost every weekend since I got it and it has held up well. I put a chassis shield on and it did a good job.



http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/P1010067.jpg
Chassis shield

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...P1010047-3.jpg
Removing the shield

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/P1010053.jpg
Chassis after a day at the track (outdoor, abrasive surface) about 5 packs. Only a few nicks on the leading edge, because I was in a hurry when I applied the shield and didn't overlap it on the edges.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...P1010046-1.jpg
Stock Jammin SCRT next to one with Slash size tires and an SC10 body.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/P1010051.jpg
Left: Stock Jammin wheels, Jammin rear shocks all the way around. Right: Slash wheels, 1/8 scale shocks.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/06180004.jpg
Running 1/8 scale shocks front and back.

Nice SCRT10, I think I read your thread in the RSC forums half a dozen times.
I definately will use that idea with the skateboard glide tape for my truck.
Reminds me that I still have to order it...

JoFreak, thanks for the kind words. It's a little extra effort to take pictures and post up the info, but I learned a lot on these threads so I want to return the favor. How's your SCRT10 running?

Shark,

How does the one with the 1/8 shocks handle next to the one with the stock shocks? I was thinking about going with the 1/8 shocks on mine so Id really like tou hear what you think.

Jhautz, the 1/8 shocks feel great. It's an incremental thing, the stock Jammin shocks work fine, going to the Jammin rears all the way around was a little better and going 1/8 was better yet. Not a huge difference, but to me it's worth it. I am not an elite driver and make mistakes so I need all the help I can get. The point of going biggger is that you can lower the ride height (especially critical if you go with bigger Slash size wheels) and gain back the suspension travel by increasing the up travel slightly. Going to the 1/8's adds the following, more oil volume for consistancy and stronger (shafts).

I'm thinking about 1/8th shocks my self, but more in a way of ofna 1/8th front buggy shocks. Basically the ones I use on my g-maxx but shorter (~100mm).

Other than that, got my first delivery today: colours, masking tape, ball bearings for the steering and a few other parts.
With any luck you guys have a chance to see a screwed up paintjob on a SCRT10 shell next weekend:yes:

One more thing regarding the shocks. The stock Jammin shocks are the same ones used on the 1/12 scale CRT.5 which are based off of 1/10 scale truck shocks. The Jammin SCRT10 is much heavier than a CRT.5 and most 1/10 2wd trucks. Look at the current SC wheels/tires (Slash sized), they are as big as 1/8 scale buggy wheels and that's a lot of mass for the stock shocks to control. So in my opinion the SCRT10 benefits from larger shocks. Just a few years ago 1/8 buggies ran 13, 14 and 15mm shocks with 3mm shafts now they are running 16, 17, 18mm and larger shocks with 3.5-4mm shafts.

Been almost four months since I updated this post. Lots of upgrades and fine tuning since then. Current setup, MMP, Novak HV 4.5, Elite shock towers, Elite low CoG motor mount, 1/8 Z-car shocks, STRC servo saver, Ofna PBS suspension, T-Bone front bumper.


http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/11170007.jpg
MMP and Novak HV 4.5

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/11190017.jpg
PBS suspension

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/11190003.jpg
Ofna optional captured steering links

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/09240006.jpg
Elite extended shock towers.

The main weakness on the SCRT10 is the front bumper. It has a tendancy to break the upper mount or the lower part will pull out from the chassis. I am running a T-Bone modded bumper. It mounts under the chassis (which is either good as it acts as a front skid, or bad, because it reduces ground clearence). It has been holding up well so far.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/11220012.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/11220015.jpg

A few more updates:

I have replaced the stock aluminum chassis with a SNR carbon Fiber one. I also removed the larger center diff top plate with a smaller CF plate. I added the PBS front suspension and moved all the electronics to the chassis to lower the CoG. I lost almost a pound from what I was originally running.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/P1010015.jpg
SNR CF chassis

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/P1010018.jpg
Bottom

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/11290045.jpg
I added a Chassis protector film

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/12160001.jpg
Mudguards added

A few more details:

I made a small bracket to help hold the rx in place. The rx is mounted with d-tape but since it was so close to the spur/driveshaft I didn't want to chance it coming loose and getting sucked into the gears, so I made a bracket that mounts to the steering servo mount and clamps down on the rx. I also made a bracket that helps support the motor wires (keep flexing to a minimum) and keeps them from getting tangled in the driveshaft. I also added velcro straps to the battery box. They are more secure and allow for taller batteries to fit.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/12080030.jpg
All the electronics mounted low on the chassis.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/12090016.jpg
I made a small bracket to help hold the rx down.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/12080034.jpg
A wire support to keep the motor/esc wires out of the driveshaft.

I mainly went with the CF chassis because it was lighter but also because my stock aluminum chassis was bent.


http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/11240021.jpg
Here is my stock chassis placed on a straight edge (ruler), you can see daylight where the chassis is bent up.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/11190003.jpg
Captured ball links to prevent pop outs and bending.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/11180032.jpg
PBS suspension has a much stronger upper arm and allows for caster adjustment.

Nice truck man!! I haven't been on the boards in quite a while but I picked up a Jammin in September so I had to chime in. I really like your ideas.

My beef with the stock chassis was all the extra "nitro" holes that were not used. There harmless but just annoying considering how much we spent for a roller. I need to look around and see where you bought that chassis.

Did you take the front end off of a CRT.5? I have never seen one in person.

I have been running the new Novak Ballistic 550 4.5 system with horrible luck. It's fast, smooth, and runs cool when it's not bursting into flames. I'm picking up my third system tonight after the first 2 blew up. The second one was literally in flames. I'm only running 2s and a low gear. It never reaches 100 deg. Weird?

Again nice truck!