Project : Mugen MBX6-T Racer
 

Tommorrow will arrive my new M-Spec mugen
http://img.rcx.cz/a.jpg
Along with a BCE chassis
http://img.rcx.cz/i.jpg
Bunch off hop ups as I want my car as light as possible to be able to use heavy batteries if needed and get rid of carbon towers
http://img.rcx.cz/b.jpg
http://img.rcx.cz/c.jpg
http://img.rcx.cz/d.jpg
http://img.rcx.cz/e.jpg
http://img.rcx.cz/f.jpg
I really like the adjustability of the ELITE RCD battery mount and i had to have something made in just 25 pieces
http://img.rcx.cz/g.jpg
Along with the motor mount that makes maintenance easier - I do have High quality Wera L-shaped hex wrenches for Mike's mount , but this is just better
http://img.rcx.cz/h.jpg

I will use titanium turnbuckles from my old MBX5T (actually I have a spare set to use)

Of course RX8, Neu 1415/2.5 1700kv on 5S LiPo and SLIPPERENTIAL

And Proline Bulldog and JC Punisher bodies.
Can't wait to start tearing the Mspec down (I got mspec as it was $40 cheaper :) and some parts will stay together) and rebuilding it into the best electric truggy racer there is.

Real pics from the build coming this weekend.

That all looks great but you don't need the Al shock towers. The stock ones are well prtected on the Truggy (not so much on the buggy).

It is not about protection. carbon is very fragile and just breaks. aluminum will just bend allowing you to finish the race. I snapped rear 5mm carbon tower on my buggy and it was not from a cartwheel. buggy just landed flat on the chassis and the tower just split in half around bulkhead screw holes.

I am not big fan of CF on critical areas of any car and I want new mugen be as bulletproof as my old MBX5-T. I never broke a single part on it (not counting being hit by a 40mph truggy from a side after making a mistake and just stopping in the middle of the track - and i broke just both left arms and bent a cvd a bit)

Keep us posted and show pics as you go - it looks like it will be incredible!

Going to be an awesome build! Keep the pics flowing :)

Where are the Alu. towers from?

It's all cool, Just had mine since the kit first came out & CF towers are still in perfect shape (I run every weekend rain or shine). The MBX6T is tougher that the 5 for sure. The only thing I've broken is front lower A-arms and those were crashes that had to break something.

It's a great truck & you will enjoy it.

adrictan: those look like the Mugen aluminiums to me

I don't see anywhere selling the Alu Shock towers. Any idea?

they are standard mugen towers I got from amainhobbies
MUGE0566
MUGE0567

Thanks.

It is 11pm but could not help it and had to start tearing it down

Start
http://img.rcx.cz/6t-1.jpg
5 minutes later thanks to Ryobi 4V LiOn screwdriver
http://img.rcx.cz/6t-2.jpg

steering post screws had so much loctite on that I stripped both of them. Oh well I don't need them :)

Alu towers are mounted.

Work left:

Dremel central CVD and wheel hex adapters pins for added security

Put all lightened parts on the drivetrain

Rebuild diffs with 15-20-8 to keep the Mspec ratio of 7-10-4 and shim the properly.

Dremel BCE chassis central diff hole a bit for slipperential to fit correctly

I am waiting for the motor mount and battery tray and lightened steering posts, but the rest of the truck will be done in day or two. I just love mugens for being so easy to work on. Almost as easy as D8.

I will keep rest of the setup according to the Mspec sheet just to see how it does.

day 2 of the build:

Dremeled chassis a bit for the slipperential to fit

http://img.rcx.cz/6t-3.jpg

Assembled lightened CVDs

http://img.rcx.cz/6t-4.jpg

Diff ready for rebuilding. Diffs had almost no oil from the factory. How they can call it MSpec.

http://img.rcx.cz/6t-7.jpg

Rear end on the chassis

http://img.rcx.cz/6t-5.jpg

I can't mount the front end as I am waiting for lightened steering posts that left us on Feb 19th :wink:

Motor mount and battery tray still on the way.

I did the same thing minus the chassis. I also opted for the titanium screw kit (Dont recomend that at all), titanium turnbuckles and aluminum rear hub carriers. They are a great basher.

I like Mike's products and will continue using them and supporting him....but I def like that motor mount

No need for alu rear hubs for racing. I switched from alu to plastic hubs on my MBX5-T and had zero issues.

I plan to use spare set of titanium turnbuckles from my 5T (as they are the same)

Titanium screws are actually really good if you get the right ones (lunsford)

I used the mugen titanium screw kits and was not impressed at all. They must only be 0.00000000000000000000001% titanium
However, i think it is a great truggy, i just finished testing mine with on 5s with a 1521 1Y:party: might see how gearing up a tooth or two and 6s go:whistle:

Any update on this one? You got the steering posts??

ps. no plans for alu (or something) chassis braces?

still waiting for motor mount as there has been some USPS mess. rest of the car is complete

BCE chassis is quite rigid so no need for alu braces. Been using plastic ones also on my BCE 5T.

I have the King headz alu braces front and rear on mine and it seems really good. I never ran it with the stock plastic ones though. Without them you can flex the standard chassis by hand

chassis flex is a good thing . it makes car more agile. it is always about finding a balance in handling.

small update - eliteRCD motor mount.
I will be using Mike's battery tray and it has been shipped today so one more week before I can finish everything

http://img.rcx.cz/motor2.jpg

There is one big issue I have with the motor mount - it just leaves motor too high for my taste raising CG so I may end up using Mike's mount even though Brandon's mount makes maintenance and gear mesh much easier. However I have high quality L shaped hex wrenches so I can live with standard Mike's mount

http://img.rcx.cz/motor1.jpg

For those wondering why I use MBX5 center diff top plate:

Reason 1 - My cat ate my MBX6 mount :)
Reason 2 - I will use piece of carbon as receiver mount and mbx5 plate will make routing cables easier.

Those heatsinks on Neu are there just for looks as motor runs cool even without them and they are just +4grams and match the servo horn :)

Wallot,

Curious how you've found the aluminum drive cups to work (not sure if you ran them on your MBX5T setup)?

Picked up a set for my racer and hoping they hold together reasonably well. Clearly a nice light setup with regards to the rotating mass of the driveline. Hoping it actually translates to quicker spool, less heat, less driveline loss.

Truck looks great. I'll agree, I prefer Mikes mount for the lower CG. I'm omitting using Mike's servo tray (like you have) so I can mount my transponder/Rx lower in the chassis. Need to see how it works out.

Curious what gearing your running? I went with 16/46 with my Tekin 1700kv setup. I'll be running this on Hyperion 5S (still working on capacity).

Aluminum drivetrain parts work great on my friend's nitro buggy no wear at all so i am giving them a try.

gearing will be 46/16 with 14-17 pinions available, 1700kv neu 5s
4000mah for 10minute runs
I can make 10 minutes with 3300 but it is pushing battery to the limit and car is very light that sometimes I fight with traction so I used to run 5000mah just for the added weight (on my old mbx5-t)

JC punisher and Proline Bulldog to match my buggy theme

http://img.rcx.cz/t2.jpg
http://img.rcx.cz/b2.jpg

You really need an additionnal heat sink with a motor that torque ?? Or you simply want to gear it for 80 mph ? ^^

Those bodies are sweeeet !!

read my posts they are just for a bling :)

Hey Wallot, what charger are you using?


Trying to find a charger to handle my 4200mah Hyperions.....

Thx.

I have several chargers:

good old Hyperion 1210i with LBA10 balancer
icharger 106B

and now new Raytronic C60 which is a clone of Fusion Emperor 702b made for local RC distributor for 2/3 of the price :) - Integrated balancer, dual outputs 2x300W of charging power. $200 for dual charger :)

Thanks for the information.

I need to pick up something more substaintial here. I'd love a single 300W setup at least for my racing needs.



How do you like the ichanger 106? Seems like it's pretty full feature (only charging my LiPo's) for reasonable cost plus has decent power. I'm only charging my Hyperion S5 4200's with this so LiPo only.

icharger is ok if you get adapter board adapter from amain as sometimes it is quite complicated to connect balancing plug directly into the charger and also it supports only JST-XH

Any other options you would suggest?

I like Hyperion's 0720i but obviously it's a bit more cash. Seems like a nice option though...

cheap - i charger 106b with balance board adapter
better - hyperion 720i
best Fusion Emperor/Raytronic C60

Thanks man!

Too keep the thread jack to a minimum, truck is coming together awesome! I've actually followed some of your recommendations on setup with regard to my mbx6t. Hoping to get it out there this weekend possibly for some shakedown testing.

Hoping the T8 - 1700kv is a nice match on my S5 4200's for this truck.

hurray, package from RCM left customs today afternoon so battery trays will arrive tomorrow. I have buggy and truggy one to test.

Except misplaced mugen flexible antenna mount all is done

RTR with VTR calibers - 4120g with JC body, 4150g with Proline Body
all with 3300mah hyperions

http://img.rcx.cz/nm-2.jpg
needs just little bit of wire management
http://img.rcx.cz/nm-4.jpg

Not bad weight wise. 9.14lbs...

Based on that, depending on motor/servo setup I should be roughly 9.37lbs (~4250gr) depending on a few things. I'm running 4200mah batts so 101gr more there.

I dropped the aluminum servo tray and cut my factory carbon setup so that should be a few grams lighter. Planning on servo taping the rx to the batt tray or steering servo depending on space availability. I also stayed with the carbon shock towers. Should be able to get it on the scale this week sometime once I get it wired.

Awesomely light for a brushless setup though. Impressive.

Love the paint scheme too ;)

I used the aluminum servo tray because Tekin rx cable is not long enough to reach on my custom carbon mount.

Actually anything under 4300g is very lightweight as sometimes the car can struggle with lack of traction on slippery tracks. I have heavy 5000mah batteries for this purpose

Few pictures from a first race.
we had just 4 groups in the race and were running with almost no breaks and i had 2 nitro cars I was pitting for so I had no time to finish tweaking suspension to my liking

I went from 15k-20k-8k in the diffs to 20k-20k-8k and it worked quite well

stock shock Mspec setup did not work well for me and I am going back to my old 5T with 6Tshocks - 300cps oil and AE bronze springs

http://img.rcx.cz/m6-1.jpg

http://img.rcx.cz/m6-2.jpg

http://img.rcx.cz/m6-3.jpg

oh and BTW - Hyperion G3 35c/65c 3300 mah did last almost 15 minutes which is very nice (we did run 10min amains )