Maxxslash (could use some RCM direction)
 

I'm really unsure where to put this, :neutral: ( it ain't no Corr truck anymore)
So this is my recent project of turning a Slash 4x4, into a strong capable , full size basher. I'm basically running all E-maxx arms, axles, carriers, and stuff, on a Slash 4x4. True-track arms in the rear, and will be modding 1/8 scale shocks to fit. It will end up the exact size as a 3905, the wheel base is identical.
So the first step was to swap out the diffs for E-revo diffs. I needed to get the bigger outdrives, but other then that they are identical. Easy stuff, as I had the parts. The arms are only a couple mm bigger then the stockers, so a little dremeling and they bolt in. I did have to sand a minimal amount of material off the arms to clear the chassis, on the inside of the suspension pin. The axles were rubbing on the rod mount, so it needed just .5mm taken off it.
I custom made some upper links, and the rear should be fne, but the front needs some additional thoughts. I was thinking that the steering links would keep it from rolling but " rootar " pointed out they will still be able to roll. So I need to find away to hold them on that axis. I was thinking about adding an additional turnbuckle to the rear oif the shock tower, to the custom ball link, but not sure if that will give me the strength I need. (any ideas) I also need to raise my front shock tower, or add to it, for a longer shock to fit the front.

I haven't decided what electronics for sure, but I have a Quark 80b, Neu 3900 4s packs, that I would like to use. Boy, am I kicking myself for getting rid of my Medusa 36-60-2000. I would like to be 45ish on 4s, but really don't want to go with a MT setup that would require alot of battery. Been thinking maybe a 9l.

Please don't be shy with suggestions or pointing out flaws.

So it's a work in progress, but here's the starting pics.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384270734.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384270747.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384270754.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384270769.jpg

So I tried to use 2 turnbucles to correct the axis of the carriers.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384312567.jpg

It technically helped, but the shock tower is flexing. I think a custom aluminum shock tower with a wider mounting point, and some custom arms to go with it. So it might call for some custom engineering, anyone know of a place that might do that :lol:

aluminum totwer would be a must have, i was thinking along the same lines earlier but i didnt have time to type it out.

youll want to spread the two links apart a the shock tower, one 8thscale shock standoffs (on backside of tower) would work great and spread the load point out a little this would also greatly increase the spread needed at the upper arm mount now i like the dual turn buckle setup since it allows adjustment of the caster which is important to be able to get right to make it handle well.

Yeah, the turnbuckles adding adjustibility is nice. So I wonder if Mike has any plans for some shock tower. Since they could allow the 1/8 scale shocks up front, and help with the turnbuckles they could really help. I'm at a blank for other ideas here.

Strc has one, http://www.teamstrc.com/ebproductdet...inid=46&id=570 but IMO they arent going to be what I would want. It looks to thin through the area that really needs to be more reinforced.

Are you just fitting the Maxx arms straight into the Slash bulks then? Do they fit all okay?

Any width/wheelbase differences in using Maxx arms?

In the above pic, post 2, you can see how much wider the maxx arms are compared to the Slash bulkhead. When it comes time for final assembly they will have to be dremeled down for the pins and brace to work right.
The final width from Wheel hex to wheel hex is 14.5 inches. About 4 inches wider then a stock Slash. Here it is next to my E-revo
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384270787.jpg
While it looks much wider, when everything is in the proper place, they are almost the same width. The wheelbase is unchanged.

Well the lower arms are going to take the most beating, so I'm not sure how strong the upper link mounts really need to be. But I would go with some sort of aluminum tower so you get a stronger link mount. Most aluminum towers are probably going to be thinner than you might like to reduce weight. IMO the design of the link mount on those should be strong enough. And I doubt anyone is going to make a tower that is thicker, due to the design and the extra machining that would be required.

The double links you used look like 1/10 2wd, if you use maxx/revo or other beefier 1/8 you may only need one. If you have a welder, just cut and slice with a sleeve over the splice instead of hunting down the correct length. You could then also go right to the pillow ballwith the link and not have a piece of "arm" in between. Just a thought to consider.

For extending the towers, another member used a flat aluminum plate bolted to the original tower with the shocks bolted to that. Can't remember if it was a slash 4x4 or a ofna/jammin they did it on, it's in the corr section though. I wonder if I could just get some different bearings to stuff the bigg axles in there so I dont have to shell out for cvd's.

You seem to be a little off on what it's doing. Here's a vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5_EKFTWkPU

I know it's hard to see, but it's the backwards force that is the problem. The up and down will be fine. With just 1 link, it just rolls back with no force.

I actually hadn't considered that movement too much, so thank you for making a dark video so that I could see the light!:lol:

On a more serious note. So in that vid, only the link mount is flexing? Are the rod ends rotating on the rod ball at all causing some movement?

I think I may have a solution that doesn't involve links though. How about doubling up the tower, even just the lower portion with the link mount. It'll take some dremeling and 4 longer screw at the base of the tower, but I don't see why it can't be done. With the link mount doubled, a Maxx RPM arm (stock .15 used in pics) could be used with a small spacer to adjust the caster.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...n_2006/005.jpg
Only 1/2 the arm would "mount" to the link, but you'd do away with the rod end's movement, still have some caster adjustability and mate up to the pillow ball nicely. Using a stock "wide" arm instead of RPM would mean more spacers (more caster adjustability though) and less strength when you cut away the unused rear portion of the arm for chassis clearance.

I have no idea whether or not the shock or driveshaft will clear the arm since I don't have your setup, but maybe you could work with this or it'll give you another idea.

Pretty much, except the minimal amount of play in the plastic end. Those are used ballends, but they are still descently tight. Since the links move in opposite directions, they can't rotate in the balls themselves.
I don't have any stock uppers to play with right now. But was planning on playing around with that when my RPM's show up. Also someone suggested using one of these http://www.gshobby.com/index.php?mai...ducts_id=18347 I'm trying to find out the length, but it might hold some possibilties.

As far as doubling up the tower, I'm not sure that even that would be strong enough. However STRC has an aluminum shock tower, and doubling it up with the plastic might work.

I wish Mike was around to answer E-mails. I would love for him to say he had some towers in the works, and it would be no sweat to thicken that area up.

HAVE you ever seen these?
Just a suggestion. I like what your doing. I'd like to try it on my true track I've been thinking about it for a while and would love to see you do it on the fronts too.

Here is some more. CLick

The Mugen arm isn't bad, but is designed to be supported at either end. Might want to look into another PBS buggy like the Hyper series. Or the LX series has inner arm mounts more like the Maxx style. They have a turnbuckle in the middle too so you could set it up with a piece of a traxxas arm at the pillow ball end like you have now.

I don't know if you plan on running the stock front bumper or not. But what about something like this sandwhiched in the diff housing where the bumper spring goes. Excuse my poor paint skills, but I think you get the idea here for a front hingpin support. Wouldn't be too hard to make with basic tools and a chunk of aluminum.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...slashmount.jpg
Sorry if I'm clogging up your thread, I like brainstorming stuff like this too much!

No it's fine :D this is how stuff get's done. I appreciate it.

I like the look of these, but they are for the shorter arms. Do you know if they were available for the wide arms?

I'm gonna have to process all this today, and post more after work. But it looks like doubling something up around an aluminum tower.

They weren't ever made for the Widemaxx. Sadly

The same could be achieved with these Gmaxx arms but it would cost a pretty penny and would be a shame to chop them up.Click

Im sure you could scratch the name off of these And cut them down to size.

Same with these

FLM ARMS The best that are easily available as you know might work well if cut down leaving the center. and check it out you get all four sure to be 6061 t-6 billet a-arms for $28.50 and you get to spend the money with Mike.

I have an email in to Mike. So before I start cutting up to many nice parts, I would wait to talk to him.

But I started thinking about some True-tracs and a C-block type setup. This might be another way to achieve what I'm after. The big question would be what to use that I could still use the E-maxx driveshafts.

Like i said in your other thread, I think savage lower arms might work better here. The are fixed at the bottom, I am not sure on geometry or shock placement. I am just looking at a way to set a fixed point at the bottom and allow a link at the top, Not sure they'd even fit right

Huh, I got a E-mail with Overdriven response, and now it's not here ?

Well my True-tracs should be here soon. They should have been here already, dang ebay sellers. I should have plenty of time to play around with this this weekend. I'm going to check out the Savage options, and also look around for some different C-block options.

Sorry I didn't like my post so I deleted it. I don't see a way to keep the emaxx shafts up front with a c-hub setup. Unless you use the stock slash 4x4 hubs with the old style thin maxx shafts and bearings with a bigger center diameter. I should have time this weekend to do some mockup on this to see if it'll work or not. Because other than the shafts, the truck seems to be pretty strong. Knock on wood, I haven't bent or broken anything else yet with all the abuse I've handed it.

But otherwise I'd just use the cvd that is designed for whatever c-hub setup you use. If the shaft is the wrong size, cut, sleeve and reweld it to the proper length. Pay for shipping and I'll do it for you no charge if you can't do it or don't want to pay for custom shafts. Then you'll just have to find a decent c-hub setup that'll work with the true tracs.

Put the rear together this morning. It went in with no trouble. A little dremel work on the rear arm around the pin was it. I need to get the exact turnbuckles figured out, but this works till the front get's done, so I kinda match it.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384560274.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384560294.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384560339.jpg

see the rear end looks almost factory if you can find a front end c-hub setup to work it would be pretty sweet

Well right now, I'm putting my eggs in the Mike basket for a shock tower. If that can't play out, then I'm going to get 2 of the STRC towers, and cut out the mount point of one, then attach them together.
Meanwhile my bumpers and suspension pins showed today, so I got those on. Nothing to drastic, just dremeled 1mm out of each side of the arm.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384623752.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384623728.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384623737.jpg

I went ahead and ordered a STRC front aluminum shock tower, to see how/ if it will work. I figure if it doesn't I'll go ahead and slap it on my other Slash.

I got the shock tower on, and it seems to work :party: :yipi:
I'm going to the LHS afterwhile to get turnbuckles and stuff.
Should be a roller by the end of the day :smile:

Can't wait to see pics!

Well you won't have to wait long, pictures just finished loading. I still need 2 pivot balls, that I should have tomorrow. Steering links are Revo suspension links, with longer ends. I had to dremel the shock tower some, for the driveshafts, but it wasn't to bad.

Beside my Slato with Talons.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384878101.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384878084.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384878057.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384878039.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384878019.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384877994.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384877977.jpg

Now I need to get my motor, and a radio system. I almost just stole my stuff from my E-revo. But I just couldn't do it .

Cool. I can't now to see it run! Never satisfied! HEHE. Is there much play?

It is really quite ridgid, enough so that I'm not worried about it. I'm not real happy with a few things on the front tower, so I still might have a custom one made. I would like to get rid of the nut spacers used, and have the links up and out. Then the shock mounts moved up and out, with more adjustments.
The suspension works good. I feel it has better travel then my E-maxx did , and feels smoother, on the table anyway. :lol:

I might just have to slap a VXL system in there, and drive it around on 2s or something :neutral:

Great!

Resist the temptation! That would be the lightest Maxxish size MT ever though. Still should be even with a proper 4s. :smile:

Well, I couldn't resist. I'm getting ready to take her for her maiden voyage, other then the living room. I geared 11/54 and am running 3s. If nothing else it should give me a good idea on how much motor it needs. I'll take a little vid :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CLf6KYrodU first vid, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_g7W2Mt4QA more are loading. The VXL had enough power, but it was at 145 in about 7 minutes. There is still some tweaking to do, and I especially need bigger shocks in the front. I just had an extra AM radio, so I'm getting some glitching. I'm almost thinking the Medusa 50 would be fine for this.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384909133.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384909107.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxm7M3lKU1Y The last video, from my first runs.



After that success, I Broke the shocktower at the upper mounting link. It just couldn't take the strain. I was bashing it with my buddy at the park, and his E-revo, mine didn't make it :neutral: But it lasted longer then my stock 3905 did when I first slapped brushless in it, so I think I'm on the right track. But I'm happy enough with it to know I'm willing to drop the money on the shocktower it takes to make this work. I think all it would take is for the shock tower to be about 3 times wider then what this one is.

Great job!! I hope alot of people attempt this! Have you posted on TRX? I see what you mean about the lack of pulsh in the front. Still its great! I know you'll get the shock tower worked out. I guess a medusa 50mm would be fine like you said on 3s might be okay. I would really love for you to weigh it. You know you lack about one or two specifications for EVERY race class with this truck? LOL. I would love to see it with a orignal Maxx body on this! You might want to make the shock towers out of Full Force.com's carbon fiber. It would really free you up on what you could do. I just bought and built some of it for my Maxx.

Thanks. It really is a pretty straight forward mod. If someone were to make a shock tower that would just work, it might become popular. I'll be getting a weight soon. But by feel, with batteries and all RTR it feels about 1-2 lbs lighter them a E-revo with no batteries. It's funny about the race class, I've been thinking about this lately. I've got 3 vehicles based on Slashes, that IMO handle way better then stock ones do, and would be fun racing. But none of them fit into any class that I could race. Maybe a Ten-T class would let me race my ST Slash with them. I've never worked with carbon fiber, would it be easy to make a shocktower out of it?

So I got some weights today. With a 4s 3900 lipo, the one I plan on running, it was 7lbs 8oz , RTR. By comparison, my E-revo with MMM combo, and 8000mah 4s, with Mashers, was 10lbs 14oz. Throw in the 9000's, and Big Joe's it was 12lb 8oz

I also got an initial reply from Mike, and am waiting to hear back so I can get the shock tower going. I can't wait.

It's up and running again. Got a few packs through it, and so far so good. I just went with a New Era tower, and tweaked things some, and it seems to be working. I put a Xerun 80a combo in it, and it seems to be a good system. I need some lower gearing to run it on 4s, but surprisingly it does good on 2s, geared 16/54. I also threw an old Revo body on it, and some truggy tires.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../386143711.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../386135029.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../386134993.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../386134972.jpg

That is amazing! I wish you could have gotten better pictures of the tower though. What happens to the front upper arm when you go to wot? Does it twist?

Thanks.
I didn't do anything to the tower. With the last tower I dremeled some of the bottom off, to clear the driveshaft, this time I dremeled the driveshaft. I then adjusted the spacers, so that if they move back, the nut will hit the chassis. I also used the link brackets off the old tower as a spacer, hopefully the additional surface area will add some strength there.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../386135044.jpg

The front end seems to be pretty stable , it's kinda hard to know what's happening at WOT, but generally the front end is skyward. :) Lifting the truck up, and blipping on the throttle expands the tires like crazy, but has no visible effect on the front. For all intensive purposes, it seems to be just as strong as the rear.

But, real bashing has not been done. A few jumps off smaller ramps, lot's of wheelies and grass, is great, but until I get some good air, and this thing walks away unscathed, I can't call it a success.

ramp it!! ramp it!! ramp it!! ramp it!! ramp it!! ramp it!! :yipi::yipi: looks great asheck...you need to launch it a few times on video. i wanna see that thing earn it's wings. :yes:

Thanks man. I actually already made a couple little vids. Not a big ramp, buy I'm trying to ease into it. BTW I pulled a backflip off the rock, right before I left, of course the batteries in the camrea were dead by then. Max temps after 30 minutes was 110 on the motor, 95 on the esc, doing 35mph on 2s. Never would have thought it would work .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtU0RCx_59s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7OBn-q-se0

LOL I think it is a success already. Those shocks really don't support that weight adaquately lol time for some super shocks I liked hearing the helle